THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  ILLIJ^OIS 


9  / 1- 


i 


INCIDENTS  ON  LAND  AND  AVATER, 


OK 

/^(jur  Jgeare  on  t\)t  Jpactftc  €oast 


BEING  A  NARRATIVE  OF  THE 


BURNING  OF  THE  SHIPS  NONANTUM,  HUMAYOON  AND  FANCHON, 
TOGETHER  WITH  MANY  STARTLING  AND  INTERESTING 
ADVENTURES  ON  SEA  AND  LAND. 


MRS.   D.   B.  BATES. 


EIGHTH  EDITION. 


BOSTON. 
PUBLISHED  FOR  THE  AUTHOR. 
1  860. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1857,  by 
MRS.  D.  B.  BATES, 
in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  of  Massachusetts 


TO  MY  MOTHER, 

WHOSE  CHERISHED  MEMORY, 
WHILE  WANDERING  FAR  FROM  YOUTHFUL  SCENES 
HAS  OFTEN  PROVED  A  TALISMAN  IN  THE  HOUR  OF  NEED ; 
THE  RECOLLECTION   OF  WHOSE  DISINTERESTED  LOVE, 
HAS  GIVEN  ME  COURAGE  TO  MEET  AND  BRAVE  SEVEREST  TRIALS ; 
THIS  VOLUME  IS  AFFECTIONATELY  DEDICATED 
BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Kind  Reader!  This  simple  unembellished  history  of 
portions  of  my  life's  experience  requires  no  preface.  Its 
deficiencies,  I  trust,  will  save  it  from  unjust  criticisms  ; 
if  justly  deserved,  may  they  be  in  all  lenity  bestowed, 
modified  by  sympathy,  and  kindness  for  the  humble 
historian. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I.  Page. 
My  Childhood's  Home,  11 

CHAPTER  II. 
The  Departure,  .      .  12 

CHAPTER  III. 
Fire  on  board  Ship  Nonantum  at  Sea,  17 

CHAPTER  IV. 
The  Falkland  Islands,  23 

CHAPTER  V. 
A  South  Sea  Rookery,  39 

/ 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Departure  from  the  Falklands,  and  second  fire  off  Cape  Horn,    .  45 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Third  fire  at  sea.    Burning  of  the  Ship  Fanchon  on  the  Coast  of 
Peru,  57 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


The  Desolate  Beach,  68 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Arrival  and  Residence  at  Payta,  73 

CHAPTER  X. 
Arrival  at  Panama  and  visit  Taboga,  82 


CHAPTER  XI. 
Arrival  at  San  Francisco.   Extensive  Conflagration.   Its  Conse- 


quences, etc.,  etc.,  .  '  96 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Leave  San  Francisco  for  Marysville,  Ill 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
Situation  and  Climate  of  Marysville.    Peep  at  the  Country,  In- 
habitants, etc.  125 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Hotel  Keeping  and  Life  in  a  Canvas  Shanty,     .      .      .  .137 

CHAPTER  XV. 
Description  of  an  Indian  Rancheria  and  its  Occupants,      .  .149 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
A  Conflagration.    Hotel  Keeping  resumed.    Marysville  Inun- 
dated,   ...  156 


CONTENTS.  9 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
A  Journey  up  the  Sacramento  Valley.    Descriptions  of  things 
seen  and  heard,  163 


CHAPTEK  XVIII. 
Trip  to  French  Corral.  Mountain  Scenery.  Mountain  Ball,  etc.  169 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
Journey  to  Park's  Bar.    Experience  in  Mining.    Fatal  results 
of  Gambling,  192 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Visit  to  Gen.  Sutter's  residence.  Description  of  the  grounds. 
The  Pleasant  Surprise,  or  the  Musical  Miner.  Good  Fortune 
of  a  Lady  in  California.  Emigrant  Wagons.  Belles  of  the 
Plain.  Interesting  and  Ludicrous  Incident.  The  English 
Gold  Diggers.    Loss  of  Life,  205 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

The  Orphan  Child.  Deh'ghts  of  Stage- Coaching  in  California. 
The  Hen  that  laid  the  Golden  Eggs,  222 


CHAPTER  XXII. 
Execution  of  a  man  in  Marysville.    The  petty  theft  the  results 
of  bad  Influence.    Accident  at  the  Mines.    "  Obstinate  as  a 
Mule."   Mysterious  Disappearance  of  Dunbar.    Cold  Blooded 
Murder.    Disinterested  Benevolence,  232 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Hardships  of  the  Mountain  Settlers  during  the  winter  of  1852. 
A  Brother's  Experience,  


254 


10 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 
Peculiarities  of  John  Chinaman.    Conflagration  in  Marysville,   .  263 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
Farewell  to  Marysville.    Departure.    Arrival  at  San  Francisco. 


Leave  San  Francisco  for  Home,  271 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
Incidents  of  the  passage.    Burial  at  Sea,  275 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Arrival  at  Panama.    Description  of  Hotels.    Walks  about  the 
city.    The  Battlement,  283 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
Crossing  the  Isthmus.    Grave  by  the  road-side.    The  beautiful 
Valley  of  Obispo.    Take  the  cars  for  Aspinwall,    .      .  ,291 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
Embark  for  Home,  on  board  the  North  Star.  A  distressed  family,  307 

CHAPTER  XXX. 
Arrival  at  New  Tork,   .314 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 
Incidents  illustrative  of  Morals  in  California,      .      •      .  .315 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 
Conclusion,  334 


INCIDENTS  ON  LAND  AND  WATER. 


CHAPTER  I. 

In  the  town  of  Kingston^  in  the  State  of  Massa- 
chusetts^ not  many  miles  distant  from  that  ancient 
and  time-honored  bay  whose  waters  years  ago 
kissed  the  prow  of  the  May  Flower "  as  she  ap- . 
proached  a  sterile  and  inhospitable  shorC;  is  situated 
the  home  of  my  childhood. 

The  dear  old  homestead^  the  scene  of  so  many 
fond  recollections,  had  descended  from  father  to 
son  for  generations.  The  storms  of  many  winters 
had  beaten  upon  its  roof ;  time  had  left  its  impress 
without,  in  the  shape  of  moss-covered  shingles ;  but 
within,  all  was  youthful  joy  and  gladness.  Not  a 
link  in  that  family  circle  had  been  severed.  In 
love  and  affection  were  we  nurtured. 

Although  years  have  intervened  since  those 
sunny  days  of  childhood,  how  often,  while  sojourn- 
ing in  distant  lands,  would  memory  recall  with  un- 

11 


12 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


dimmed  freshness  the  gladsome  spring-time  of  youth. 
Happy  days  !  too  speedily  do  they  fly,  leaving, 
often,  nought  but  the  recollection  of  them  to  cheer 
us  in  our  toilsome  march.  Early  in  hfe,  I  was 
united  to  one  whose  home  was  on  the  deep.  Then 
came  the  sad  partings  from  loved  friends,  to  follow 
for  many  consecutive  years  the  fortunes  of  my 
husband  by  sea  and  land.  There  were  sad  de- 
partures and  joyful  returns. 


CHAPTER  II. 

On  the  27th  of  July,  1850,  1  sailed  from  Balti- 
more in  the  ship  Nonantum^  of  Boston,  (Bates,  mas- 
ter,) bound  to  San  Francisco.  In  the  ship's  hold 
was  stowed  one  thousand  and  fifty  tons  of  coal; 
the  between-decks  were  filled  with  provisions  for 
the  steamers  plying  between  Panama  and  the  El 
Dorado  of  the  West.  The  coal  with  which  we  were 
laden  was  taken  from  the  Cumberland  mines,  brought 
directly  to  Baltimore  in  open  iron  cars,  subject  to 
frequent  showers  of  rain  on  the  way,  and  deposited 
in  that  condition  in  the  ship. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


13 


With  bright  hopes  and  glowing  anticipations  we 
left  our  native  land.  Well  was  it  that  no  prophetic 
visions  presaged  the  future  that  awaited  us.  We 
were  wholly  unconscious  at  the  time  of  the  remarks 
uttered  by  the  spectators  assembled  upon  the 
wharf;,  to  the  effect  that  coal  was  a  dangerous 
cargo  to  take  upon  so  long  a  voyage. 

By  the  lessons  taught  by  the  bitter  experiences 
of  that  memorable  year^  many  shipmasters  have 
duly  profited.  Now^  they  stow  their  coal  in  casks, 
or  in  small  quantities,  have  it  dry  when  placed  on 
board,  and  give  it  sufficient  ventilation. 

The  ship's  crew  consisted  of  the  usual  comple- 
ment of  sailors,  first  and  second  officers,  carpenter, 
cook,  and  steward ;  also  two  boys,  w^ho  particularly 
attracted  my  attention.  They  were  pleasant  little 
fellows,  who,  being  possessed  of  a  mania  for  the 
sea,  had  left  their  homes  to  seek  their  fortunes 
vipon  the  treacherous  deep.  Many  times  during 
the  voyage  had  they  occasion  to  bless  the  captain's 
vvdfe  for  a  bite  of  something  good  from  the  cabin 
table,  slyly  given  to  them,  and  in  secret  eaten. 

This  was  not  my  first  voyage.  To  me  the  cabin 
of  a  wave-tossed  vessel,  and  a  trip  across  the  deep 
green  ocean,  was  never  monotonous  or  disagreeable, 
never  being  afflicted  with  that  unpleasant  nausea 

2 


14 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


termed  sea-sickness/'  so  much  to  be  dreaded, 
judging  from  the  appearance  and  descriptions  re- 
ceived. The  separation  from  earth's  homes  and 
loved  hearts  are  all  calculated  to  elevate  the  mind, 
and  centre  the  soul's  best  affections  upon  pure  and 
holy  objects.  How  often,  hour  after  hour,  have  I 
sat  gazing  upon  the  boundless  expanse  of  water, 
contrasting  in  my  mind  the  utter  insignificance  of 
human  power  and  skill,  compared  with  the  majesty 
of  the  Almighty  Maker  of  the  ocean  and  the 
land. 

Moonlight  nights  at  sea  are  my  especial  delight. 
How  I  love  to  gaze  upon  the  illimitable  deep,  and 
watch  each  ripple  gleaming  and  sparkling  in  the 
broad  and  trackless  pathway  like  myriads  of  dia- 
monds beneath  the  effulgent  beams  of  the  glorious 
orb  of  night !  Almost  imperceptibly,  a  holy  calm 
pervades  my  being,  and  absorbs  all  other  faculties. 
With  what  reluctant  feelings,  on  such  evenings  as 
these,  would  I  resign  my  seat  upon  deck,  even  after 
the  night  was  far  spent. 

Before  leaving  Baltimore,  my  husband  had  pur- 
chased a  beautiful  Newfoundland  dog,  of  the  largest 
species;  to  which,  on  account  of  the  remarkable 
sagacity  he  displayed,  I  became  very  much  attached. 
In  my  daily  promenade  upon  deck,  he  was  ever  by 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


15 


my  side.  Whenever  a  sail  was  discovered  in  the 
distance^  he  would  place  his  huge  fore-paws  on  the 
ship's  rail;  and  send  his  loud^  hoarse  bark  rever- 
berating far  over  the  swelling  wave. 

Then  I  had  two  goats  on  board  to  furnish  milk;, 
not  being  sailor  enough  to  drink  the  strong  coffee 
made  on  ship-board.  They  were  very  playful^  and 
once  a  day  were  allowed  the  hberty  of  the  deck^ 
which  they  readily  improved  by  racing  and  frolick- 
ing about;  in  which  they  were  joined  by  Dash. 

In  pleasant  weather,  when  off  the  coast  of  Brazil, 
1  have  sat  for  hours  on  the  ship's  rail  fishing  for 
albatross,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  formidable 
of  the  South  Sea  birds,  as  they  majestically  sailed 
along  in  the  wake  of  the  ship,  watching  the  bait  (a 
piece  of  pork  fastened  to  the  hook,  and  a  small  bit 
of  board  attached  to  the  line  to  float  it,)  so  tempt- 
ingly displayed.  After  swallowing  it,  and  finding 
themselves  captured,  there  was  no  struggling  to 
free  themselves,  but,  as  you  hauled  in  the  line,  they 
would  sail  gracefully  along  in  all  their  native  beauty 
and  dignity.  The  assistance  of  the  two  boys  was 
required  in  bringing  them  to  the  deck,  where,  after 
freeing  them  from  the  hook,  (which,  the  boys  al- 
ways assured  me,  did  not  hurt  them  in  the  least,) 
they  would  survey  the  scene  around  them  with  a 


16 


SCENES  IN  THE  PxiCIFIC. 


sort  of  contemptuous  glance,  as  though  they  dis- 
dained their  captors  and  the  deception  used  to 
allure  them  from  their  native  element.  The  goats, 
when  freed  from  their  inclosures,  would  advance 
towards  them,  rear  themselves  on  their  hind-legs, 
and  shake  their  heads  in  defiance  of  the  monster 
bird ;  while  it,  in  turn,  would  snap  its  tremendous 
bill  with  such  force,  you  could  hear  it  ring  fr(im 
one  part  of  the  ship  to  the  other ;  but  they  would 
never  encounter  one  another  except  by  threatening 
gestures.  When  we  became  satisfied  with  admiring 
our  prisoner,  two  sailors  would  each  grasp  a  wing, 
raise  him  to  the  side  of  the  ship,  give  him  a  toss, 
and  away  he  would  soar ;  then  light  gracefully  upon 
the  water  at  a  little  distance,  and  view  what  I  sup- 
pose he  thought  to  be  a  huge  monster  which  had 
held  him  in  his  grasp. 

Another  amusement  was  taking  a  dish  of  crumbs, 
and,  by  throwing  over  a  handful,  call  a  flock  of 
cape-pigeons  to  the  ship's  side.  EacL-bne  eager  to 
secure  his  share,  they  would  dive  far  down  into  the 
clear  water  to  get  those  that  were  sinking.  Some- 
times, to  deceive  them,  I  would  throw  over  a  bone 
that  would  sink  rapidly.  Down  they  would  all  go 
after  it  out  of  sight ;  then  appear  again,  chattering, 
—  scolding,  I  called  the 'incessant  noise  they  kept 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


17 


Lip.  This  bird  resembles  our  tame  pigeon^  with  the 
exception  of  being  a  little  larger. 

Flocks  of  Mother  Carey's  chickens  "  were  occa- 
sionally following  in  our  wake.  Those  tiny  little 
things^  ever  on  the  wing,  often  excited  my  sym- 
pathy. About  this  time,  the  faithful  dog  I  had 
learned  to  love  so  well  sickened,  and  daily  grew 
worse.  Every  remedy  we  could  devise  was  called 
into  requisition,  but  availed  nought.  One  night, 
after  I  had  retired,  he  dragged  himself  to  my  berth, 
placed  his  nose  close  to  my  face,  and  whined  and 
moaned  piteously.  I  afterwards  thought  it  pro- 
phetic of  evil  in  the  future.  Upon  making  my  ap- 
pearance upon  deck  the  next  morning,  there  lay 
the  noble  animal  dead.  Poor  old  Dash!  the  re- 
membrance of  thee  and  thy  many  virtues  will  live 
long  on  memory's  leaf. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Days  and  weeks  passed  on,  until  w^e  were  in  the 
latitude  of  the  Rio  de  la  Plata.  So  mild  and  pleas- 
ant had  been  the  weather,  that  I  was  half  inclined 


18 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC, 


to  believe  this  voyage  indeed  was  to  be  an  excep- 
tion to  all  previous  ones ;  although  often^  when  ex- 
pressing myself  delighted  with  the  continuance  of 
such  lovely  weather,  the  exuberance  of  my  feehngs 
would  be  somewhat  checked  by  repeated  assurances 
from  my  husband  that  I  should  see  it  rough 
enough  "  off  Cape  Horn  to  compensate  for  all  pre- 
vious calms. 

Suddenly  the  aspect  of  affairs  changed,  and  we 
encountered  a  terrific  storm,  the  bare  recollection 
of  which  almost  makes  me  shudder.  The  ship's 
cabin  was  a  house  upon  deck ;  and,  as  the  storm 
increased  in  violence,  the  angry  waves  dashing 
higher  and  higher  as  each  successive  blast  lashed 
the  mighty  deep,  fears  were  entertained  that  the 
house  would  be  forcibly  detached  from  the  deck. 
Heavy  shutters  were  fastened  against  the  windows 
as  a  protection  to  the  glass  against  the  storm,  there- 
by rendering  the  cabin  dark  as  night.  A  lantern 
was  kept  burning  through  the  day,  as  well  as  by 
night.  Owing  to  the  violent  motion  of  the  ship,  I 
was  compelled,  for  the  most  part  of  the  time,  to 
keep  my  berth,  to  prevent  being  dashed  against 
the  cabin  walls.  I  very  reluctantly  consented  to 
confine  myself  to  my  state-room,  but  not,  however, 
until  I  had  received  some  severe  bumps.    So  vio- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


19 


lent  and  sudden  were  those  jerks^  that^  unless  one 
was  very  much  guarded^  they  would  be  thrown 
very  unceremoniously  from  their  seat.  . 

Oh^  it  was  terrible  to  lie  so  many  hours  listening 
to  the  roaring  of  the  storm  without !  I  wished  very 
much  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  ocean  when  lashed 
into  such  fury,  but  there  was  no  aperture  whereby 
I  could  gratify  my  curiosity.  I  had  only  to  pray, 
and  listen  alone.  My  husband  was  constantly  on 
deck;  taking  neither  refreshment  nor  sleep.  I  won- 
dered not  at  his  anxiety,  although  I  knew  not  then 
the  imminent  danger  impending  from  fire  as  well 
as  water ;  for,  the  second  morning  after  the  com- 
mencement of  the  storm,  smoke  had  been  discovered 
between  decks.  The  alarming  truth  instantly  flash- 
ed upon  our  minds.  The  gas  that  originated  from 
the  coal  had  generated  fire.  Orders  were  immedi- 
ately given  to  get  up  provisions  and  water  sufficient 
to  last  until  we  could  be  released  from  our  awful 
situation.  While  thus  engaged,  several  of  the  men 
were  rendered  genseless  from  the  effects  of  the  gas. 
They  next  proceeded  to  close  the  hatches,  and 
caulked  every  seam  tightly,  in  the  hope  of  arresting 
the  progress  of  the  fire  it  was  impossible  to  extin- 
guish. 

Captain  B  shaped  his  course  for  the  nearest 


20 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


land  the  Falkland  Islands^  which  were  eight  hun- 
dred miles  distant.  During  this  time,  the  severity 
of  the  gale  was  such,  it  compelled  me  to  remain  in 
the  cabin ;  and  for  three  days  I  remained  in  igno- 
rance of  our  perilous  situation.  During  this  inter- 
val, the  air  in  the  cabin  was  ever  impregnated  with 
a  strong  odor  of  tar.  This  was  accounted  for  to 
me  in  this  light,  —  the  cook  was  boiling  tar,  as  they 
were  obliged  to  make  use  of  a  great  deal  at  such 
times.  That,  of  course,  looked  very  reasonable,  and 
served  the  purpose  of  concealment  from  me  of  the 
fire.  It  is  true  the  countenances  of  my  husband 
and  officers  bore  unmistakable  traces  of  anxiety ; 
but  this  I  readily  attributed  to  the  violence  of  the 
gale,  which  threatened  every  moment  to  engulf  us. 

I  also  noticed  the  steward  caulking  some  of  the 
seams  in  the  pantry.  Upon  inquiry,  he  gave  me 
to  understand  it  was  necessary  to  use  this  precau- 
tion, to  prevent  any  liquids  he  should  chance  to 
spill  from  running  down  on  the  cargo,  —  a  foolish 
excuse,  to  be  sure ;  but,  however,  it  proved  effec- 
tive. But,  when  the  gas  and  smoke  escaped  through 
seams  which  were  apparently  water-tight,  and  made 
its  appearance  in  the  cabin,  concealment  was  no 
longer  possible. 

Upon  learning  the  sad  truth,  for  a  time  all  forti- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


21 


tilde  and  self-control  forsook  me.  I  thought  of  my 
dear  old  home  far  away^  in  its  quiet  seclusion ;  of 
the  loved  ones  wont  to  assemble  there  to  talk  and 
pray  for  the  safety  of  the  absent  one.  I  felt  I 
should  never  more  behold  them^  and  that  they 
would  ever  remain  in  ignorance  of  our  fate.  After 
the  first  moments  of  despair^  Hope  again  asserted 
her  empire.  Repinings^  I  reasoned^  were  useless. 
The  Almighty  hand  which  formed  the  channels  of 
the  deep  had  power^  I  knew^  to  preserve  us,  and 
guide  us,  amidst  storm  and  darkness,  to  our  homes 
and  havens  of  rest.  The  greatest  consternation 
prevailed  among  the  crew.  At  times  the  gale 
would  abate,  only  to  be  renewed  with  increased 
violence.  We  were  soon  obliged  to  vacate  the 
cabin,  which  was  filled  to  suffocation  with  gas ;  and, 
for  five  consecutive  days  and  nights,  I  remained  in 
a  chair  which  was  lashed  to  the  deck.  It  was  quite 
cold,  and  often  I  was  drenched  with  the  water  and 
spray  that  would  dash  at  short  intervals  across  the 
deck.  Never  can  I  forget  those  dreary  days  of 
suffering  that  I  sat  gazing  from  the  narrow  deck 
upon  the  boundless  expanse  of  tossing,  foam-crested 
billows.  As  far  as  eye  could  reach,  no  friendly  sail 
appeared  to  which  we  could  look  for  safety ;  noth- 
ing was  seen  but  the  sweeping  surge,  as  it  came 


22 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


roaring  and  dashing  on^  threatening  to  overwhehn 
us.  In  such  an  hour  man  learns  of  God^  and  wit- 
nesses proof  of  his  grandeur  and  power  in  every 
dashing  wave ;  he  sees  nature  in  one  of  its  grandest 
aspects. 

If  possible^  the  nights  exceeded  in  anxiety  the 
days;  impenetrable  darkness  surrounded  us^  relieved 
only  by  sheets  of  white  foam  dashing  over  the  bow^s^ 
as  the  doomed  ship  madly  plunged  into  the  angry 
waters.  When  one  sea  more  powerful  than  another 
would  strike  her,  causing  her  to  tremble  in  every 
timber,  I  would  grasj)  my  chair,  shut  my  eyes,  and 
think  we  were  fast  being  engulfed  in  the  sea.  Oh, 
those  nights  of  agony!  Never,  through  all  the 
vicissitudes  of  after  life,  will  one  thought,  one  feel- 
ing, then  endured,  fade  from  the  volume  of  memory. 

Each  day  the  ship  was  getting  hotter ;  gas  and 
smoke  were  escaping  at  every  seam.  We  constantly 
feared  an  explosion,  as  the  natural  consequence  of 
so  much  confined  gas.  What  a  solace  to  me,  in 
those  days  of  trial,  was  the  trust,  the  implicit  confi- 
dence, I  felt  in  that  mighty  Guardian  Power  that 
is  ever  around  and  about  us,  and  in  whose  protec- 
tion we  are  forever  safe ! 

On  the  twelfth  day  after,  fire  was  first  discovered, 
we  made  the  Falkland  Islands.    As  we  approached 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


23 


the  Volunteer  Rocks^  which  make  off  two  miles 
from  land,  gloomy  and  forbidding  as  were  their 
appearance,  I  hailed  them  as  harbingers  of  safety. 
Truly  it  must  have  been  the  sunshine,  the  grateful 
happiness  of  the  heart,  which  clothed  those  barren 
rocks  with  imaginary  beauty  —  I  had  almost  said 
reverence. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  entrance  to  the  outer  bay  is  called  Port 
William.  About  twenty  miles  up  this  bay,  an 
English  colony  is  established.  The  entrance  to 
Port  William  is  designated  by  a  tall  flag-staff.  At 
the  time  of  our  arrival,  it  was  blowing  a  close-reefed- 
topsail  breeze,  directly  down  the  bay ;  and,  as  night 
was  approaching,  the  captain  deemed  it  advisable 
to  select  the  most  sheltered  situation  at  hand,  and 
anchor  until  morning. 

Formerly,  this  colony  was  located  up  Berkley's 
Sound,  and  called  Port  Louis.  It  has  since  been 
removed  to  its  present  site,  and  styled  Port  Stanle}^ 
The  Falkland  Islands  are  situated  in  the  South  At- 


24 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


lantic  Ocean^  where  the  mariner  guides  his  course 
at  night  by  the  sacred  constellation  of  the  Southern 
CrosS;  and  between  the  parallels  of  51  deg.  and  53 
deg.  south^  and  extending  from  57  deg.  to  nearly 
62  deg.  west.  The  only  two  of  considerable  size 
are  the  East  and  West  Falkland.  These  are  sepa- 
rated by  a  channel.  Around  these  islands  are  nu- 
merous rocks^  whose  distance  from  the  shores^  where 
tides  run  strongly^  and  winds  are  violent  as  well  as 
sudden,  renders  it  rather  difficult  to  navigate.  In 
approaching  land,  and  particularly  when  entering 
a  harbor,  a  good  look-out  should  be  kept  for  fixed 
kelp,  which  grows  upon  every  rock  covered  by  the 
sea,  and  not  far  below  the  surface.  Lying  upon 
the  water,  the  leaves  and  stalk  serve  as  well  as  a 
buoy  to  warn  of  hidden  danger.  A  region  more 
exposed  to  storms,  both  in  summer  and  winter,  it 
would  be  difficult  to  mention.  High  winds  are 
prevalent,  and  very  violent  at  times.  During  the 
summer,  a  calm  day  is  an  extraordinary  event. 
Generally  speaking,  the  nights  are  less  windy  than 
the  days.  Altogether,  the  appearance  of  these 
lonely  isles  of  the  South  are  dismal  and  uninviting 
in  the  extreme.  Moorland  and  black  bog  extend 
in  nearly  every  direction ;  although  there  are  val- 
leys affording  coarse,  excellent  grass,  upon  which 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


25 


Ihviiisands  of  wild  cattle  subsist.  Some  tracts  of 
land,  I  was  informed^  at  the  southern  part  of  the 
island,  were  low,  level,  and  abundantly  productive 
of  excellent  herbage.  Many  years  since,  the  French 
and  Spanish  left,  at  different  times,  cattle  and  horses 
upon  the  isle.  They  have  multiplied  and  increased, 
until  they  now  estimate  the  number  at  a  hundred 
thousand  head  that  are  roaming  wild  over  the  hills. 

The  ship  being  safely  moored,  I  entreated  my 
husband  to  take  me  on  shore.  After  much  per- 
suasion, he  consented.  A  boat  was  lowered,  in 
which,  after  iTxUch  difficulty,  I  was  placed.  This 
was  effected  by  tying  a  rope  around  my  vfaist,  and 
lowering  me  down  the  ship's  side ;  then  watching 
an  opportunity  when  the  boat  was  in  a  right  posi- 
tion, to  lower  avv^ay."  This  method  was  of  neces- 
sity adopted,  the  sea  being  so  rough,  I  lacked  the 
courage  to  leave  the  ship  the  usual  way.  Yv^hen 
my  feet  were  placed  once  more  on  te?Ta  firma^  I  in- 
wardly resolved  never  again  to  return  on  ship-board. 
W e  wandered  from  the  shore  to  the  top  of  a  small 
eminence,  from  whence,  at  a  little  distance,  we  de- 
scried a  shanty. 

We  approached,  and,  judging  from  the  writing 
found  upon  the  walls,  it  had  been  the  resort  of 
sailors  thrown  upon  that  inhospitable  coast.    In  it 

3 


26 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


was  a  sort  of  stone  fire-place^  on  which  the  sailors 
placed  some  dried  heather  found  in  the  hut^  which/ 
when  ignited,  threw  out  a  ruddy  blaze  that  sent  its 
cheering  beams  directly  to  the  heart.  On  our  way 
to  the  hut;  we  noticed  several  perforations  in  the 
earth.  One  of  the  sailors,  desirous  of  investigating 
the  origin  of  these  holes,  thrust  his  hand  into  one 
of  them,  but  instantly  withdrew  it  with  a  smoth- 
ered oath,  and  an  expression  evincing  acute  pain. 
Immediately,  out  rushed  a  penguin,  displaying  un- 
mistakable symptoms  of  a  fight.  Every  hole  con- 
tained a  penguin,  secreted  there  for  the  purpose  of 
incubation.  The  sailors,  of  course,  exasperated 
that  a  brother  shipmate  should  receive  such  treat- 
ment as  a  reward  for  his  prying  curiosity,  routed 
the  whole  posse  of  penguins,  and  a  regular  hand-to- 
hand  battle  ensued ;  for  to  the  penguins  can  never 
be  imputed  one  particle  of  cowardice,  when  the  call 
for  action  is  the  defence  of  her  eggs  or  young. 
Victory  was,  of  course,  conceded  to  the  strongest 
party.    But  not  always  does  "  might  make  right." 

Nothing  could  be  seen  in  any  direction  inland 
but  barren  hills ;  yet,  cheerless  as  was  the  prospect 
on  shore,  no  entreaty,  or  even  command,  of  my 
husband,  could  induce  me  to  return  to  that  burning 
ship.    Here  was  a  sad  dilemma  for  my  husband  to 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


27 


be  placed  in.  A  sense  of  duty  called  him  on  board ; 
yet  he  could  not  leave  me  on  shore  all  night  with- 
out a  protector.  Finally^  at  the  intercession  of  the 
matC;,  who  volunteered  to  take  good  care  of  the 
ship,  he  reluctantly  consented  to  remain  with  me^ 
although  he  spent  the  greater  part  of  the  night 
Avatching  the  ship. 

Next  morning,  as  we  were  about  to  repair  to  the 
boat,  —  for,  upon  reflection,  I  concluded  that  to  be 
the  only  way  by  which  the  settlement  could  be 
reached,  —  a  horseman  appeared  in  the  distance, 
riding  at  a  furious  pace  directly  for  us.  As  he  ap- 
proached, and  reined  in  his  jet-black  steed  in  front 
of  our  party,  I  certainly  never  beheld  such  a  per- 
fect specimen  of  equestrian  grace  and  manly  beauty. 

Springing  from  his  horse,  he  accosted  us  in  a 
language  unintelligible  to  all  except  Old  Tom,"  as 
he  was  designated  by  his  shipmates.  He  proved  to 
be  one  of  a  class  of  men  denominated  guachos,  who 
are  employed  in  lassoing  and  bringing  in  wild  cat- 
tle. Tom  soon  acquainted  him  with  every  j)arti- 
cular  concerning  us;  whereupon  he  insisted  that 
the  capitan's  sefiora  should  go  with  him  to  his 
ranch,  about  four  miles  distant,  where  every  atten- 
tion would  be  lavished  by  his  sefiora  to  render  me 
comfortable  until  I  could  proceed  to  the  settlement. 


28 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


Tom  interpreted  the  invitation^  which,  of  course,  I 
declined  accepting,  feeling  a  reluctancy  to  go  with 
him  alone.  Discovering  my  hesitancy,  he  endeav- 
ored to  remove  all  objections  by  bestowing  several 
flattering  encomiums  upon  my  personal  apj)ear- 
ance,  which  were  certainly  ill-starred,  and  served 
only  to  increase  my  unwillingness  to  go  with  him 
unattended.  It  was  at  length  decided  that  the 
second  mate  should  accompany  me. 

Our  Spanish  friend  laughed  at  the  idea  of  my 
being  afraid  to  mount  his  spirited  horse,  and  even 
objecting  to  be  seated  in  front  of  him  —  the  man- 
ner in  which  they  often  ride  with  senoritas.  He 
mounted  his  horse  alone  ;  while  Mr.  Wood  and  my- 
self walked  by  his  side.  My  husband  returned  to 
the  ship.  We  found  it  very  tiresome  travelling 
over  the  bogs,  with  the  wind  blowing  almost  a  gale. 
After  panting  and  puffing,  and  being  obliged  seve- 
ral times  to  stop  and  recover  breath,  we  reached 
the  top  of  a  little  eminence  ;  and  there,  sure  enough, 
was  the  veritable  ranch.  It  looked  so  pleasant  and 
home-like  about  the  little  cottage,  that  in  vain  I 
endeavored  to  repress  those  outgushings  of  the 
heart  engendered  by  the  sight  of  objects  which  re- 
called vividly  to  mind  home,  and  all  the  warm  and 
kindly  associations  connected  therewith. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


A  lovely  little  Spanish  woman  met  us  at  tiie 
^^or^  and,  after  exchanging  a  few  words  with  her 
husband,  she  embraced  me  affectionatelv,  led  me 
to  a  pleasant  little  room  looking  out  upon  the  bay^ 
and  placed  a  loaf  of  bread  and  pitcher  of  milk  on  a 
tahle  by  my  side.  She  seemed  really  grieved  be- 
cause I  could  not  swallow  one  mouthful.  My  feel- 
ings were  fast  gaining  the  ascendencj^  So  much 
sympathy  as  she  expressed,  by  her  gestures  and 
tender  offices,  completely  won  my  affections. 

I  had  taken  very  little  food  after  learning  the 
ship  was  on  fire,  and,  with  feelings  all  the  while 
wrought  to  such  a  state  of  excitement,  the  revulsion 
well-nigh  prostrated  me.  In  the  meantime,  word 
had  reached  the  settlement  that  there  was  a  ship 
in  distress  outside,  and  a  number  of  the  most  popu- 
lar men  of  the  place  had  started  to  render  any 
necessary  assistance.  Sometime  after  noon,  they 
reached  the  Spaniard's  house,  where  we  were,  and 
learning  of  Mr.  Wood  the  particulars,  took  him  into 
the  boat,  and,  with  the  exception  of  three  of  them, 
proceeded  to  meet  the  ship.  It  was  blowing  so 
hard,  they  would  be  compelled  to  beat  the  ship  up 
the  bay,  which  would,  pf  course,  occupy  some  time. 

Mr.  Hamlin,  the  physician,  the  surveyor-general, 
and  the  clergyman,  (the  three  who  remained,)  pro- 


30 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


posed  taking  the  sail-boat  belonging  to  the  Spaniard, 
and  take  me  at  once  to  the  colony  j  and,  as  their 
ladies  were  English,  it  would  be  pleasanter  than  to 
remain  where  I  was. 

Therefore,  I  bade  adieu  to  my  beautiful  Sj)anish 
friend,  and  about  sundown  reached  the  narrow  en- 
trance to  the  inner  harbor.  Two  large  wooden 
men  stand  on  each  side  of  the  entrance,  pointing 
towards  the  town.  Passing  through,  you  find  your- 
self in  one  of  the  nicest,  land-locked  harbors  in  the 
world,  where  ships  of  the  largest  tonnage  can  lie  in 
safety. 

The  town  is  built  at  the  base  of  the  hills,  which 
rise  gradually  from  this  beautiful  basin.  How  far 
away  from  the  busy,  bustling  world  seemed  this 
little  hamlet !  and  how  quiet  and  serene,  I  thought, 
must  pass  the  lives  of  those  dwelling  upon  this  re- 
mote isle !  The  sun  was  shedding  his  last  golden 
rays  upon  the  surrouliding  hill-tops,  before  retiring 
to  his  hesperian  couch.  While  inanimate  nature 
was  welcoming  me  to  this  haven  of  rest,  how  in- 
expressibly lonely  I  felt  at  heart,  surrounded  by 
strangers  !  No  doubt  they  would  extend  a  friendly 
greeting ;  but,  oh,  how  my  heart  yearned  for  the 
warm  welcome  of  some  home-friend ! 

Mr.  Hamlin  took  me  to  his  house,  where  I  was 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


31 


cordially  received  by  his  amiable  lady,  and  nothing 
was  omitted  that  could  in  any  way  contribute  to 
my  comfort,  or  serve  to  dispel  those  home-sick  feel- 
ings which  naturally  acquired  the  ascendency. 
That  night;  sleep  was  a  stranger  to  my  pillow.  I 
shall  ever  remember  Mrs.  Hamlin  vfitli  feelino^s  of 
affection.  No  kind  mother  could  have  bathed  my 
aching  head  more  tenderly.  Oh,  there  is  a  mag- 
netic power  in  kindness !  Kind  words  are  always 
winning,  whether  from  friend  or  stranger. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  the  ship  appeared  at  the 
entrance.  After  dropping  anchor,  my  husband 
called  a  survey,  opened  her  hatches,  and  found  her 
to  be  so  badly  on  fire,  they  decided  to  run  her 
ashore,  and  scuttle  her.  He  selected  a  spot  which 
happened  to  be  opposite  the  little  grave-yard. 
Slowly  and  majestically  was  she  wafted  to  her  place 
of  rest.  Never  more  would  she  gallantly  breast  old 
ocean's  w^ave.  With  tearful  eyes  I  Vv^atched  her 
motions.  She  had  been  my  home  so  long,  I  loved 
her  as  such.  They  cut  holes  in  her  side,  and  sank 
her  in  depth  of  w^ter  sufficient  to  cover  the  fire. 
For  two  days  she  was  enveloped  in  steam,  which 
precluded  all  possibility  of  gaining  the  deck.  After 
the  fire  was  extinguished,  they  stopped  the  holes^ 
and  worked  the  pumps  incessantly,  without  dimin- 


32  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFId. 

ishing  in  the  least  the  depth  of  water  in  the  ship. 
She  had  bilged ;  her  beams  and  stancheons  were 
burnt  off;  and  her  lower  deck  had  fallen  in.  She 
was  condemned  and  sold  at  auction.  It  was  our 
intention  to  go  directly  home;,  as  soon  as  an  oppor- 
tunity presented.  The  isolated  situation  of  the 
island  prevented  its  being  visited  often^  especially 
by  ships  homeward-bound ;  therefore^  our  stay  there 
might  be  indefinitely  protracted.  There  were  about 
four  hundred  inhabitants  in  this  remote  colony^ 
consisting  of  English,  Spanish,  and  French.  The 
people  were  under  the  immediate  jurisdiction  of  a 
governor,  who  ruled  with  despotic  power.  The 
governor,  clergyman,  doctor,  governor's  secretary, 
surveyor-general,  and  lawyer,  are  appointed  by  the 
queen,  and  receive  a  salary  of  four  hundred  j)ounds 
sterling  per  year,  with  the  exception  of  the  gov- 
ernor, who  has  eight  hundred.  These,  with  their 
families,  also  Lloyd's  agent,  and  ihe  merchant,  con- 
stitute the  gentry,  as  they  style  themselves.  The 
governor  lives  in  princely  style.  To  be  seated  in 
his  reception-room,  one  would  imagine  himself  in 
some  English  palace.  Everything  has  been  trans- 
ported from  England  —  both  house  and  furniture. 
All  the  frame-buildings  on  the  island  were  brought 
either  from  England  or  the  main-land.    Those  of 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


33 


tlie  poorer  class  were  mere  hnts^  constructed  of 
peat  and  stone.  Peat  is  also  used  hy  them  for  fuel. 
Those  only  who  receive  a  salary  can  indulge  in  the 
luxury  of  a  coal  fire. 

There  is  not  a  tree  on  the  island^  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  apologies  for  the  same  in  the  gov- 
ernor's garden.  They^  upon  being  transplanted 
into  such  ungenial  soil^  had  assumed  a  stinted^  sickly 
appearance. 

The  governor  was  a  stern^  austere-looking  per- 
sonage^ greatly  to  be  feared^  and  seldom  loved. 
One  little  incident^  that  came  under  my  own  imme- 
diate perception,  I  will  relate.  It  will  serve,  in  a 
measure,  to  illustrate  his  arbitrary  propensities.  His 
household  consisted  of  himself,  wife,  and  two  sons. 
The  eldest  was  an  imbecile,  and  so  perfectly  child- 
like in  his  disposition,  that  he  readily  Avon  the  sym- 
pathy of  all  the  inhabitants.  The  youngest  was  a 
wild,  head-strong  sort  of  a  chap,  about  fourteen 
years  of  age.  For  him  they  had  employed  a  young 
governess,  whom  they  brought  Vv^ith  them  from 
England.  This  young  lady  they  treated  more  like 
a  menial  than  as  a  companion  for  their  children. 
They  looked  upon  the  young  instructress  as  one 
born  to  labor  and  endure,  seemingly  unconscious 
that  there  were  as  deep  fountains  of  sorrow  and  lov^^ 


34 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


in  her  heart  as  there  was  in  those  who  were  fostered 
in  wealth  and  luxury.    One  evening,  there  was  a 

social  gathering  at  the  house  of  Mr.  W  ;  and^ 

of  course,  Miss  T  ^  being  an  accomplished  and 

intelligent  young  person,  was  present.  Upon  pre- 
paring to  leave,  early  in  the  evening,  (as  she  was 
required  to  be  in  by  nine  o'clock,)  Mr.  W   pro- 
posed to  accompany  her,  as  her  path  lay  near  the 
barracks,  where  were  always  assembled  a  drunken, 
riotous  set.  Next  morning,  he  received  a  note  from 
the  governor,  requesting  his  immediate  presence. 

Mrs.  W          felt  quite  alarmed  at  the  thought  of 

her  husband  incurring  the  displeasure  of  his  ma- 
jesty. Upon  appearing  before  this  august  person- 
age, he  received  a  severe  reprimand  for  so  far  for- 
getting his  station  as  a  gentleman  as  to  escort  home 
one  whom  he  considered  as  a  dependent  upon  his 
bounty,  and  also  assured  him,  if  he  was  guilty  of 
the  like  offence  again,  he  should  consider  him  defi- 
cient in  all  that  constituted  a  gentleman. 

The  governor's  wife  boasted  of  being  a  descend- 
ant of  the  "  fair  maid  of  Perth."  I  have  no  reason 
to  doubt  the  tie  of  consanguinity,  although  she 
certainly  had  not  inherited  any  of  the  personal 
attractions  of  her  lovely  progenitor. 

They  were  all  very  kind  to  us,  showing  every 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


35 


respect  and  attention.  Doubtless^  I  often  shocked 
tliem  with  my  Yankee  provincialisms.  Every  family . 
of  note  had  magnificent  side-boards^  stored  with  the 
choicest  kinds  of  liquors  and  cordials.  It  was  con- 
sidered a  breach  of  etiquette  to  refuse  to  partake 
of  the  good  cheer  set  before  you.  What  would  our 
American  ladies  at  the  present  day  think  of  having 
such  an  array  set  before  them^  when  making  their 
accustomed  calls  ?  Yet  it  is  universally  practised 
here. 

To  diminish  our  expenses^  we  concluded  to  go  to 
housekeeping.  My  husband  rented  the  only  vacant 
building  in  the  place,  a  miserable,  barn-like  shanty, 
for  which  he  paid  the  exorbitant  sum  of  thirty  dol- 
lars per  month.  Thither  we  moved  ourselves :  we 
had  little  else  to  move.  Nearly  every  one  contrib- 
uted some  article  of  domestic  use.  Our  larder  was 
supplied  with  wild-fowl  and  beef,  also  a  species  of 
fish  which  are  taken  from  the  numerous  streams 
which  intersect  the  country.  They  are  designated 
trout,  but  do  not  in  appearance  or  flavor  resemble 
our  own  speckled  trout,  which  by  epicures  are  con- 
sidered such  a  nice  treat.  No  kind-  of  vegetables 
could  be  procured  at  any  price.  The  inclemency 
of  the  weather,  even  in  summer  months,  precludes 
the  growth  of  the  most  hardy  kind.    Cold  storms 


36 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


of  hail  and  sleet  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in  sum- 
mer. One  gentleman^  by  inclosing  a  piece  of  ground 
with  a  high  peat  wall  to  shelter  it  from  the  cold 
winds^  had  managed^  by  dint  of  great  exertion^  to 
raise  a  few  cabbages. 

Often^  when  seated  at  my  window^  my  attention 
had  been  attracted  towards  a  lovely  little  girl^  with 
soft  dark  eyes^  and  long  auburn  4^inglets  hanging  in 
rich  profusion  over  her  shouldei  i  She  was  usually 
accompanied  by  a  tall^  dignified,  melancholy-looking 
individual;  who^  I  afterwards  learned^  stood  in  the 
relation  of  father.  His  very  countenance^  which 
"was  seldom  irradiated  by  a  smile^  bore  traces  of  in- 
effable sorrow.  They  would  spend  hours  in  sailing 
around  the  bay  in  a  fancy  yacht^  which  he  kej)t 
moored  opposite  our  house.  Upon  inquiry^  I  learned 
that  for  some  time  the  gossiping  and  Avonder-loving 
portion  of  the  community  had  been  kept  in  con- 
stant agitation  regarding  the  mystery  that  sur- 
rounded Mr.  Montague  (for  by  that  name  was  he 
known)  and  his  family.  He  kept  himself  aloof 
from  all  society ;  and  the  only  servant  he  kept  had 
never  been  known  to  speak  an  intelligible  word  to 
any  one.  She  seemed  devotedly  attached  to  her 
master^  and  guarded  little  Myrtie  with  watchful 
tenderness.     Myrtie  came  to  my  door  one  day, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


37 


bringing  me  a  basket  of  nice  little  fish;,  and  grace- 
fully presented  them^  saying  that  she  often  amused 
herself  by  fishing.  After  that^  she  became  a  daily 
visitor.  Daily  my  interest  in  that  child  increased. 
She  was  wonderfully  endued  with  intellectual 
powers  for  one  of  her  years.  One  day,  she  said  to 
me,  "  Do  you  know  why  I  brought  you  those  fish  ? 
and  what  brings  me  every  day  to  see  you  ?  "  I  told 
her  I  did  not.  Said  she,  "  I  do  so  love  to  look  in 
your  face !  It  makes  me  feel  happy.  I  always 
think  of  some  one  I  loved  well,  and  called  mamma. 
It  seems  such  a  long  time  ago,  —  so  very  long,  —  I 
sometimes  think  it  was  a  dream.  But,  since  you 
came  here,  I  can  remember  more.  I  can  recollect 
she  looked  like  you ;  and,  when  you  smile,  you  look 
as  she  used  to,  when  she  w^ould  kiss  ine,  and  call 
me  her  little  darling.  Oh,  I  remember  how  I  cried 
when  a  tall,  dark-looking  man  snatched  me  from 
my  mxamma's  arms,  —  how  she  looked,  as  she  ran 
screaming  after  us ! 

I  never  saw  her  again.  Then  old  '  Nurse  Bell ' 
took  care  of  me.  We  sailed  on  the  water  a  lone, 
long  time  before  we  came  here."  Her  j)apa,  she 
said,  was  very  kind,  and  she  loved  him;  but  slij 
could  love  him  better,  if  he  would  talk  more  about 
mamma."    When  she  asked  him  to  tell  her  all 

4 


38 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


about  her,  he  would  shake  his  head,  look  very 
gloomy,  and  say,  "Your  mamma  is  in  heaven." 
Her  father  was  her  only  instructor,  and  she  was  for 
advanced  in  her  studies.  He  also  taught  her  music : 
she  played  and  sang  sweetly.  For  once  I  felt  in- 
clined to  pardon  the  inquisitive ;  for  they  certainly 
had  food  for  idle  speculation.  Dear  little  Myrtie  ! 
often  have  I  sighed  when  thinking  of  your  lonely 
situation,  uncheered  by  the  presence  of  that  guar- 
dian angel  of  childhood  —  a  mother  —  on  whom 
you  could  bestow  that  wealth  of  affection  concen- 
trated in  an  almost  too  confiding  and  sensitive  heart. 

The  winter  preceding  our  arrival  at  the  islands 
had  been  one  of  unusual  inclemency.  Communica- 
tion with  the  main-land  was  entirely  cut  off  before 
the  winter's  supply  of  hay  and  grain  had  been  pro- 
cured. In  consequence,  the  cattle  suffered  incredi- 
bly. The  snow,  for  two  months,  lay  upon  the 
ground  to  the  depth  of  two  feet.  All  the  suste- 
nance the  cattle  could  obtain  was  insufficient  to 
lieep  off  starvation.  They  were  often  found  dead^ 
thirty  and  forty  in  heaps  together. 

When  the  English  first  established  this  colonj^, 
they  intended  to  export  hides,  tallow,  seal-skins, 
and  seal-oil.  As  yet,  they  have  shipped  no  tallow 
Sealing  is  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACli'IC. 


39 


England's  convicts^  when  banished  to  the  sunny 
isle  of  Australia^  are  not  as  deserving  of  the  sym- 
pathy of  the  philanthropist  as  are  those  old  pcn- 
sionerS;  to  the  number  of  thirty^  Vvho^  with  their 
families,  have  been  induced,  by  the  promises  held 
out  to  them,  and  which  they  have  found,  to  their 
sorrow,  can  never  be  fulfilled,  to  leave  merry  Eng- 
land, for  a  home  on  these  barren  islands. 


CHAPTER  V. 

The  feathered  tribes  are  very  numerous  on  these 
islands  of  Southern  hemisphere.  Of  penguins,  there 
are  four  kinds  —  the  king  penguin,  the  macaroni, 
the  jackass,  and  the  rookery.  The  first  of  these  is 
much  larger  than  a  goose ;  the  other  three  are 
smaller,  differing  in  appearance  in  several  particu- 
lars. They  all  walk  upright,  w^ith  their  legs  })ro- 
jecting  from  their  bodies  in  the  same  direction 
with  their  tails.  When  fifty  or  more  of  them  are 
seen  in  file,  they  appear,  at  a  distance,  like  a  com- 
pany of  soldiers.  They  carry  their  heads  high, 
with  their  wings  drooping  like  two  arms.  The 


40 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


breast-feathers  are  delicately  white^,  with  a  line  of 
black  running  across  the  crops.  Seen  at  a  distance, 
they  have  the  appearance  of  little  men,  with  a 
white  bosom,  black  neckerchief,  and  short  breeches. 
Their  gait  on  land,  however,  is  very  awkward  — 
rather  more  so  than  that  of  a  sailor  just  returned 
from  a  long  voyage. 

When  tamed,  the  penguin  becomes  quite  tract- 
able. A  lady  at  the  isle  had  domesticated  and 
made  quite  a  pet  of  a  king  penguin,  which  she, 
however,  proposed  to  relinquish  for  the  sum  of 
thirty  dollars.  She  had  taught  him  to  sit  at  table 
with  her.  A  sip  of  coffee  he  seemed  to  enjoy  with 
much  gusto;  and  if,  perchance,  she  attempted  to 
raise  the  cup  to  her  lips  before  first  presenting  his 
majesty  with  a  draught,  he  would,  quick  as  thought, 
with  a  blow  from  one  of  his  "  hands,"  dash  the  cup 
to  the  floor.  He  followed  her  about  the  house  as 
a  child  follows  its  mother ;  and  she  assured  us  he 
was  a  great  deal  of  company  for  her  when  alone. 

Another  sea-fowl  peculiar  to  the  islands  is  the. 
upland-goose,  which  is  about  the  size  of  our  domes- 
tic goose.  Their  plumage  is  rich  and  glossy :  that 
of  tlie  gander  is  dazzlingly  white.  The  down  is 
equal  to  that  of  the  swan.  The  teal  are  alsi  found 
here,  and  far  surpassing  in  beauty  those  of  +his 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACiFlO. 


41 


country.  Their  bills  and  feet  are  blue  ;  their  wings 
of  a  golden  green.  The  ducks  are  similar  to  those 
found  in  the  United  States;  but  the  manner  of 
going  a-ducking  very  dissimilar^  —  no  lying  in  wait 
half  a  day  before  getting  a  good  shot.  You  might 
take  your  gun  and  shoot  them  down^  and  dozens 
will  come  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  the  report. 

Previous  to  our  arrival^  three  other  vessels  had 
put  into  the  harbor  in  distress^  and  had  been  con- 
demned. The  crews  of  these  vessels  were  con- 
stantly out  gunning.  I  would  see  them  often  re- 
turning over  the  hills^  laden  with  those  beautiful 
white  geesC;  looking  like  so  many  swans.  A  Dutch 
3aptain^  whose  vessel  had  been  condemned^  was 
v^ery  contentedly  pursuing  the  even  tenor  of  his 
way/'  bringing  in  the  game,  while  ^^mine  frow" 
was  as  industriously  manufacturing  feather  beds. 
Never  having  heard  them  say  anything  about 
getting  away,  I  presume  they  are  yet  at  the  old 
vocation. 

A  moral  philosopher  and  naturalist  would  be 
highly  interested  in  contemplating,  for  days,  the 
operations  of  a  South  Sea  rookery,  observing  the 
order  and  regularity  with  which  everything  is  con- 
ducted. When  a  sufficient  number  of  penguins, 
albatross,  etc.,  are  assembled  on  shore,  they  proceed 

4^ 


42 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


to  the  execution  of  the  grand  object  for  which  they 
left  their  native  element.  Firsts  they  trace  a  well- 
defined  parallelogram,  of  requisite  extent  to  accom- 
modate the  whole  fraternity,  —  perhaps  from  one 
to  four  or  five  acres.  One  side  runs  parallel  with 
the  water^s  edge,  and  is  left  open  for  egress  and 
regress.  They  then  commence  picking  up  the 
stones,  and  depositing  them  outside  the  lines ;  thus 
creating  quite  a  little  wall  on  three  sides.  Within 
this  wall  they  form  a  pathway,  several  feet  in 
width,  which  would  not  suffer,  in  regard  to  smooth- 
ness, compared  with  any  fashionable  promenade  in 
our  city  parks.  This  path  is  for  the  sentinels  to 
patrol  at  night.  They  next  lay  out  the  whole  in 
little  squares,  formed  by  narrow  paths  which  cross 
each  other  at  right  angles.  At  each  intersection  of 
these  paths,  an  albatross  constructs  her  nest ;  while 
in  the  centre  of  each  square  is  a  penguin's  nest. 

Although  the  penguin  and  albatross  profess  such 
sincere  attachment  for  one  another,  they  not  only 
form  their  nests  in  a  different  manner,  but  the  pen- 
guin will  rob  her  friend's  nest,  whenever  an  oppor- 
tunity presents ;  being  ambitious,  I  suppose,  to  pro- 
duce a  large  family.  The  penguin's  nest  is  fonned 
by  an  excavation  in  the  earth ;  while  that  of  the 
albatross  is  formed  by  throwing  up  a  mound  of 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


43 


earth,  eight  or  ten  inches  high ;  on  the  summit  of 
which  she  can  scrutinize  the  proceedings  of  her 
nearest  neighbors  and  best  friends. 

The  camp  of  the  rookery  is  in  continual  motion ; 
penguins  passing  through  the  different  paths,  on 
their  return  from  aquatic  excursions,  eager  to  caress 
their  mates  after  a  temporary  absence ;  while  the 
latter  are  passing  out  in  quest  of  refreshment  and 
recreation.  At  the  same  time,  the  air  is  almost 
darkened  by  an  innumerable  number  of  albatross 
hovering  over  the  rookery,  continually  lighting, 
and  ineeting  their  companions;  while  others  are 
rising,  and  shaping  their  course  for  the  sea.  To  see 
these  creatures  of  the  ocean  so  faithfully  discharge 
the  duties  assigned  them  by  the  great  Creator ;  to 
witness  their  affectionate  re-unions,  their  numerous 
acts  of  tenderness  and  courtesy  to  each  other,  the 
reflection  naturally  arises,  that,  if  there  Avas  only 
as  much  harmony  and  genuine  affection  between 
wedded  pairs  of  the  human  family,  the  connubial 
state  would  then  indeed  be  "  all  that  we  dream  of 
heaven." 

We  had  remained  at  the  islands  about  a  month, 
when  the  ship  Humayoon,  from  Dundee,  (McKenzie, 
master,)  bound  to  Valparaiso,  laden  with  coal,  tar, 
and  liquors,  put  into  port  to  procure  water  and 


44 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


beef.  The  captain  formed  an  acquaintance  with 
my  husband,  and^  after  learning  the  particulars  of 
our  situation,  very  kindly  offered  us  a  passage  to 
Valparaiso ;  from  whence  we  could,  in  all  proba- 
bility, arrive  home  sooner  than  by  remaining  where 
we  were.  , After  having  procured  the  necessaries 
required,  I  exj)ected  the  captain  would  at  once 
proceed  on  his  voyage ;  but,  being  perfectly  inde- 
pendent, as  he  was  sole  owner  of  the  fine  ship  and 
cargo,  he  protracted  his  stay  at  the  settlement  day 
after  day,  thereby  gratifying  the  mirth-loving  por- 
tion of  the  community  by  assembling  them  -at  dif- 
ferent times  on  ship-board,  to  join  in  the  merry 
dance.  !  He  had  on  board  several  musical  instru- 
ments, which  he  was  taking  out  to  dispose  of ;  and, 
being  possessed  of  extraordinary  musical  talents, 
the  people  were  perfectly  delighted  and  entranced 
with  specimens  of  his  skill.  He  had  a  perfect  pas- 
sion for  Scotch  airs,  which,  all  conceded,  never  before 
sounded  half  so  enlivening.  But  pleasures,  how- 
ever transporting,  unhappily  cannot  last.  No  chain, 
be  it  of  gold,  or  pearl,  or  flowers,  can  bind  the  stub- 
born wings  of  Time,  and  bid  him  loiter  on  his  way. 
On  the  morning  of  the  25th  of  November,  he 
weighed  anchor,  and  turned  her  bows  towards  the 
entrance. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


45 


I  cast  a  last;  sad^  lingering  look  at  the  old  Nonan- 
tum^  and  bade  adieu  to  kind  friends^  whom,  prob- 
ably, I  should  never  meet  again  on  the  journey  of 
life,  although  they  would  be  often  remembered. 
During  my  sojourn  at  the  islands,  although  I  found 
kind  friends,  I  passed  many  a  gloomy  -hour.  As 
the  season  approached  which,  |rom  time  immemo- 
rial, in  dear  old  New  England,  has  been  observed 
as  a  day  of  thanksgiving  and  prayer,  —  a  day,  of 
all  others,  when  severed  families  assemble  under 
the  paternal  roof,  to  meet  once  again  the  loved 
friends  of  their  youth,  to  tread  again  the  paths  hal- 
lowed by  childhood's  earliest  recollections, — 'the 
anniversary  of  such  a  day,  while  in  this  remote 
region,  crowded  my  memory  with  reminiscences  of 
the  past,  pleasurable,  from  the  associations  which 
they  recalled,  and  painful,  from  the  position  which 
I  then  occupied. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Once  more  I  found  myself  on  board  a  good  ship, 
bounding  gayly  over  the  blue  waters.  Captain 


46  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

McKenzie  possessed^  in  an  eminent  degree,  tlie 
ability  of  rendering  his  passengers  perfectly  at 
home  and  happy.  His  crew  were  composed  entnely 
of  Scotchmen;  and^  every  evening,  the  echo  of 
their  merry  Scotch  songs  were  wafted  far  over  the 
deep  sea.  Captain  McKenzie  proposed  teaching  to 
me  the  Spanish  language,  being  a  j)erfect  linguist 
himself  He  found  me  far  more  tractable  in  that 
than  in  learning  to  take  a  glass  of  his  good  Scotch 
whiskey/'  as  he  termed  it^  to  which  I  had  taken  a 
mortal  aversion,  and  for  which  he  entertained  a 
decided  preference. 

He  was  a  skilful  navigator,  and,  on  his  voyages 
around  Cape  Horn,  invariably  passed  through  the 
Straits  of  Le  Maire,  which  separate  Staten  Land 
from  Terra  del  Fuego,  and,  by  "  hugging  the  land," 
escape  some  of  the  severe  blows  so  prevalent  in 
that  region.  He  having  been  on  several  exploring 
expeditions  in  those  vfaters,  I  experienced  a  degree 
of  security  I  should  not  otherwise  have  felt  in  ap- 
proaching so  near  to  huge  and  jagged  rocks,  that 
for  ages  had  reared  their  frowning  heads,  as  if  in 
defiance  of  old  ocean's  roar.  We  passed  the  veri- 
table Cape  Horn  (situated  on  Hermit  Island)  in 
such  close  proximity,  one  could  distinctly  discern 
the  barren  soil.   While  I  stood  gazing  at  the  conical 


SCENES  IN  THE  rACIFIC. 


47 


mounts  said  the  captain^  You  have  now  seen  what 
many  an  old  navigator  in  these  waters  never  be- 
held^ they  keep  so  far  south."  I  assured  him  one 
sight  was  sufficient  for  a  Ufe-time  ;  that  the  remem- 
brance of  the  wildness  and  grandeur  of  that  ocean 
scene  would  never  be  obliterated  from  the  pages 
of  memory. 

That  nightj  it  came  on  to  blow  tremendously. 
Next  morning,  we  found  ourselves  eighty  miles 
from  land,  and,  horror  of  horrors,  the  ship  on  fire ! 
My  heart  refused  to  give  credence  to-  the  startling 
report,  until  my  eyes  beheld  it.  Our  w^orst  fears 
were  too  soon  confirmed  by  the  flames  darting  up- 
wards, and  igniting  the  hatch  the  men  were  vainly 
endeavoring  to  caullv ;  for  fear  had  paralyzed  their 
faculties.  When  that  burnt  and  fell  in,  the  flames 
shot  upvfard  almost  to  the  top-mast-head.  The 
combustible  nature  of  the  cargo  caused  the  fire  to 
increase  with  wonderful  rapidity.  Tlie  long-boat 
was  launched,  and  I  was  placed  therein,  with  my 
pet-goat ;  for  I  would  not  leave  her  behind :  the 
other  I  had  given  to  Myrtie.  After  several  ineffec- 
tual attempts  to  get  at  some  bread  and  water,  the 
fire  and  smoke  drove  them  all  in  confusion  to  the 
boat.  They  pulled  off*  a  short  distance,  and  w^e 
gazed  in  sadness  and  silence  upon  what  was  so  re- 


48 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


cently  our  haj)py  home^  now  a  burning  wreck. 
The  calmness  of  despair  pervaded  my  whole  being : 
all  was  comprehended  at  a  glance^  —  eighty  miles 
from  landj  and  that  an  inhospitable  coast;  inhabited 
only  by  savages ;  without  bread  or  water ;  in  an 
open  boat,  exposed  to  the  inclemency  of  Cape  Horn 
weather!  People  on  the  land,  seated  by  their 
pleasant  firesides,  imagine  they  can  understand  our 
feelings  at  that  time ;  but  it  is  impossible.  Even 
when  danger,  in  its  most  appalling  form,  threatens 
on  the  land,  there  is  generally  some  avenue  of 
escape  open.  But  at  sea,  with  nought  but  a  frail 
plank  between  you  and  a  watery  grave,  —  and  that 
so  fragile,  one  dash  of  those  mighty  waves  might 
annihilate  it,  —  oh,  the  horror  of  such  a  situation 
can  never  be  conceived ! 

All  at  once,  the  joyful  cry  of  "  Sail,  ho ! "  was 
shouted  from  our  midst;  and,  far  away,  I  could 
descry  a  speck  upon  the  ocean.  Nearer  and  nearer 
it  came,  until,  when  within  about  a  mile  of  us,  she 
hove  to,"  and  lowered  away  a  boat,  which  came 
bounding  over  the  water  to  our  relief  This  ship 
proved  to  be  the  Symmetry,  of  Liverpool,  Captain 
Thompson,  bound  to  Acapulco,  and  laden  with  coal. 
How  that  word  rang  in  my  ears !  It  seemed  to  me 
every  ship  that  floated  was  coqtl-ladea.  We  repaired 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


49 


at  once  on  board  the  Symmetry.  Capt.  McKenzie 
requested,  as  a  flivor,  that  Capt.  Thompson  would 
"layby"  until  the  Humayoon  was  burned  down. 
Now  that  we  could  view  her  from  a  place  of  safety, 
it  was  a  scene  to  rivet  the  attention  of  all  behold- 
ers. Flying  about,  at  the  mercy  of  the  wind  and 
waves,  the  flames  bursting  out  her  sides  (the  liquor 
was  stowed  aft)  and  stern,  the  blue  flames  wreathed 
and  flashed  higher  and  higher.  Soon  the  main  and 
mizen-mast  began  to  totter :  they  swayed  to  and 
fro  for  about  ten  minutes,  when  they  fell  with  a 
crash  over  the  side.  Soon  the  fore-mast  fell ;  and 
all  that  remained  of  the  fine  ship  Humayoon  lay  a 
burning  mass  upon  the  water. 

Captain  Thompson  now  made  sail,  and  soon  the 
remains  of  that  noble  ship  which,  only  twelve  days 
previously,  had  borne  us  from  our  island  retreat, 
was  obscured  from  our  view.  Her  commander 
dropped  a  tear  to  her  memory,  and  retired  in  silence 
to  the  cabin. 

Captain  Thompson  was  accompanied  by  his  wife 
and  family.  I  was  pleased  at  the  idea  of  enjoying 
for  a  season,  however  brief,  the  society  of  a  female 
friend.  Capt.  Thompson  had  previously  informed 
us  that  our  stay  on  board  the  Symmetry  must  of 
necessity  be  prolonged  no  farther  than  such  a  time 

5 


50 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFia 


as  he  could  speak  some  sliip.  His  inability  to  txc- 
commodate  us  longer  than  was  actually  necessary 
was  owing  to  a  scarcity  of  provisions^  his  own  ship's 
crew  being  then  on  an  allowance.  He  had  been 
seven  months  from  Liverpool.  He  had  put  into 
Eio  on  the  way^  where^  on  account  of  severe  indis- 
position^ he  had  remained  several  weeks.  While 
there,  his  crew  had  nearly  all  deserted  him.  When  , 
ready  for  sea,  he  shipped  any  he  could  get ;  and  a 
sorry  set  he  had.  Part  of  them  had  mutinied,  and 
were  confined;  and  the  other  half  carried  the  prin- 
ciples of  revolt,  too  apparent  to  be  mistaken,  in 
their  dark  countenances. 

Night  had  now  spread  its  sable  mantle  over  the 
world  of  waters ;  the  bright  constellations  were  re- 
flected in  the  deep ;  and  the  noble  ship,  with  ma- 
jestic and  graceful  motion,  was  cleaving  a  pathway 
for  herself  through  the  rapidly  heaving  billows. 
My  thoughts,  as  my  eyes  w^andered  over  the  waste 
of  waters,  were  busy  with  the  past  and  present,  — 
for  the  future  I  could  only  hope.  But  a  few  months 
had  intervened  since  leaving  Baltimore ;  and  yet 
how  much  intense  anxiety,  actual  suffering,  and 
harrowing  suspense,  were  crowded  into  that  short 
space !  One  day  on  board  a  burning  ship,  with  no 
hope  of  escape ;  then  a  port  of  safety  in  view ;  then 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACLFIG. 


51 


on  board  another  ship,  with  every  prospect  of  a 
speedy  termination  of  our  eventful  voyage  5  then, 
again,  assailed  by  fire,  and  obliged  to  seek  safety  in 
an  open  boat,  far  from  land ;  and  then  transferred 
to  a  place  of  temporary  safety,  —  for  what  could 
we  expect  but  a  recurrence  of  those  awful  scenes, 
while  on  board  a  coal-laden  ^ip  ?  "  What,"  thought 
I,  "  will  be  the  end  ?  Shall  I  ever  be  permitted  to 
reach  in  safety  the  land  of  my  birth  ? "  I  dared 
not  entertain  a  hope  seemingly  so  fallacious.  As 
time  progressed,  I  was  often  reminded,  by  painful 
contrast,  of  the  fleeting  happiness  enjoyed  on  board 
the  Humayoon.  There  a  spirit  of  harmony  and 
love  seemed  to  pervade  the  whole  ship's  company. 
The  reverse  of  this  at  sea  is  disagreeable  in  the 
extreme ;  and  the  truth  of  this  assertion  was  never 
more  clearly  demonstrated  than  on  board  the  Sym- 
metry. In  lieu  of  heart-stirring  songs  and  happy 
faces,  gloomy  frowns,  and  curses  ^^not  loud  but 
deep,"  met  the  ear  at  every  turn ;  anarchy  and  dis- 
cord went  hand  in  hand.  Daily  I  scanned  the 
ocean  in  search  of  a  sail,  anticipating  a  happy 
change,  yet  dreading  what  I  most  desired ;  for  had 
not  experience  taught  me  that  whatever  we  most 
earnestly  desire,  when  attained,  often  proves  the 
source  of  the  keenest  misery  ?    At  the  expiration 


52 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


of  thirteen  days,  the  anxiously  expected  sail  ap- 
peared. Mentally  I  prayed  it  might  be  an  Ameri- 
can ;  for  with  my  own  countrymen  there  exists  a 
congruity  of  thought  and  feeling  which  renders 
their  society  more  congenial.  As  she  geared  us, 
we  perceived;,  to  our  great  joy^  that  she  was  a  large 
American  ship.  In  answer  to  Captain  Thompson's 
signal^  she  hove  to.  He  then  sent  a  boat  to  ascer- 
tain if  we  could  be  transferred  to  her.  She  proved 
to  be  the  Fanchon^  of  Newburyport^  Captain  Lunt, 
bound  to  San  Francisco^  laden  with  coal^  which  she 
took  in  at  Baltimore.  We  became  acquainted  with 
Captain  Lunt  while  at  Baltimore.  The  Nonantum 
had  sailed  three  weeks  in  advance  of  the  Fanchon. 
The  Nonantum  had  gone  to  her  last  resting-place ; 
and  here^  on  the  broad  Pacific^  we  met  the  Fanchon, 
in  all  her  pristine  architectural  beauty,  unharmed, 
and  yet  laden  with  Cumberland  coal.  Upon  Capt. 
Lunt  learning  that  we  were  on  board  the  Symme- 
try, he  came  with  all  possible  haste  in  his  own  boat 
to  convey  us  to  the  Fanchon. 

In  the  interim,  Captain  McKenzie  had  effected  a 
compromise  with  Captain  Thompson,  to  the  effect 
that  he  would  sail  as  near  to  the  port  of  Valparaiso 
as  would  render  it  safe  and  feasible  for  Captain 
McKenzie  and  crew  to  embark  in  their  long-boat, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


53 


and  arrive  at  their  destined  port.  How  well  they 
succeeded^  future  events  will  promulgate. 

I  should  judge;,  the  two  ships  lay  about  a  mile 
apart.  Soon  after  we  welcomed  Captain  Lunt  on 
board  the  SymmBtry,  the  heavens  became  suddenly 
overcast ;  and,  as  appearances  betokened  a  squall, 
it  was  thought  advisable  for  me  to  depart  instantly 
with  Captain  Lunt ;  while  my  husband  should  col- 
lect what  effects  we  had  preserved  from  the  Huma- 
yoon  and  my  goat,  and  come  in  the  ship's  boat. 
Thinking  and  hoping  we  should  reach  the  Fanchon 
before  the  squ.all  struck,  they  watched  us  with  in- 
tense anxiety  from  the  ships.  When  little  more 
than  mid-way  between  the  ships,  it  came.  Drenched 
with  spray,  and  clinging  to  my  seat,  I  dared  not 
express  my  terror  other  than  by  looks.  Do  not 
be  alarmed,"  said  Capt.  Lunt.  "  There  is  no  danger 
to  be  apprehended.  We  shall  soon  reach  the  Fan- 
chon ;  and,  when  once  on  her  deck,  all  trouble  and 
danger  will  flee  away."  By  such  cheering  words, 
he  endeavored  to  divert  my  thoughts  from  our  by 
no  means  enviable  situation.  My  heart  almost 
ceased  its  pulsations  as  we  bounded  over  the  white- 
crested  billows.  How  intently  were  we  watched 
by  those  on  board  the  Symmetry !  When  we  would 
disappear  from  their  view  in  the  trough  of  the  sea, 

5^ 


54 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


Mrs.  Thompson  would  exclaim,  "  They  are  gone ! 
they  are  lost ! "  and,  when  we  appeared  on  the  top 
of  some  mighty  wave,  would  the  fervent  exclama- 
tion, "  Thank  God,  they  are  safe ! "  ascend  from 
every  heart.  By  some  mischance  or  other,  in 
attempting  to  get  alongside,  we  were  swept  towards 
the  ship's  stern.  She  was  plunging  and  rolhng  ter- 
ribly. .  My  God,  we  are  under  the  stern ! "  was 
the  hasty  ejaculation  borne  to  my  ears ;  and  there, 
towering  high  above  us  over  our  frail  boat,  was  tlie 
noble  ship,  threatening  instant  destruction.  It  was 
but  momentary.  By  almost  superhuman  exertion, 
the  boat's  crew  succeeded  in  placing  our  frail  bark 
beyond  the  reach  of  imminent  danger ;  and,  as  the 
ship  dashed  down  into  the  bosom  of  her  native  ele- 
ment, we  were  beyond  her  reach,  but  not  far  enough 
to  escape  the  tumultuous  dashing  of  the  waters, 
which  for  an  instant  caused  me  to  doubt  my  being 
in  the  boat.  The  second  attempt  to  reach  her  side 
was  crowned  v>^ith  success.  A  rope  was  thrown 
from  the  ship,  which  was  caught  by  those  in  the 
boat.  It  required  the  united  exertions  of  all  to 
keep  the  boat  from  being  dashed  to  pieces  against 
the  ship's  side.  It  seemed  almost  an  impossibility 
for  me  to  ascend  the  side  of  the  ship  vmassisted ; 
but  so  I  must  go,  if  I  went  at  all,  and  that  right 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


55 


speedily.    I  could  scarcely  retain  an  upright  posi- 
tion in  the  boat  5  and  yet;  as  the  ship  rolled  towards 
US;  my  instructions  were  to  jump  and  catch  the 
man-ropeS;  and  cling  hold  until  she  careened  the 
other  way;  and  then  to  climb  the  steps  as  quickly 
as  possible.    The  water  was  boiling  and  surging 
between  the  ship  and  the  boat  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  intimidate  a  much  larger  female  than  myself. 
Captain  Lunt  was  to  give  the  word  when  to  jump ; 
and;  when    Now  is  your  time  !  now  is  your  time  ! " 
came  thundering  in  my  earS;  all  my  innate  fortitude 
deserted  me  \  I  was  powerless  to  move.  Captain 
Lunt;  rightly  conjecturing  that;  unless  moved  by 
some  sudden  impulse  of  resentment;  I  should  never 
gain  the  deck;  looked  and  spoke  his  feelings  of  dis- 
approval so  palpably;  (he  afterwards  assured  me  it 
cost  him  no  small  effort  to  conceal  his  genuine  feel- 
ingS;)  that  I  felt  I  would  make  an  attempt;   live  or 
diC;  sink  or  swim."   When  next  the  word  was  given, 
it  was  promptly  obeyed.    I  jumped;  caught  one  of 
the  ropes  with  both  handS;  and  clung  with  the 
tenacity  of  one  whose  only  hope  of  preservation 
depended  upon  a  firm  grasp.    I  was  all  the  time 
cheered  by  the  cry  of  "  Hold  on  \  you  are  safe  ! " 
In  a  moment  I  had  clasped  the  other  ropC;  ascended 
the  stepS;  and  was  placed  upon  deck  by  the  mate. 


56 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


I  could  recollect  nothing  more  distinctly,  until  I 
found  myself  in  a  beautiful  cabin,  attended  by  an 
old  man,  judging* from  his  silvered  locks ;  yet  his 
fresh  and  healthy  appearance  gave  evidence  that, 
although  Father  Time  "  had  whitened  his  hair,  he 
had  made  but  few  inroads  upon  a  healthy  constitu- 
tion. He  was  the  steward  —  an  old  and  devoted 
servant  to  the  captain,  in  whose  employ  he  had 
been  for  seventeen  years.  He  was  a  native  of  Eng- 
land. His  words  of  consolation  to  me  were,  God 
bless  your  dear  little  heart !  "  accompanied  by  a  pat 
on  my  shoulder ;  "  may  you  never  be  in  such  a  situa- 
tion again.  Lord  bless  you  !  The  sight  of  one  of 
my  girls  in  a  like  situation  would  well-nigh  break 
my  heart."  Soon  my  husband  arrived  in  safety. 
Captain  Lunt  made  sail,  and,  long  before  the  shades 
of  evening  descended,  the  Symmetry  was  scarcely 
discernible.  The  Fanchon  was  far  her  superior,  as 
regarded  sailing  qualities  and  symmetrical  propor- 
tions. All  the  symmetry  the  other  could  boast  of 
lay  in  the  name.  I  wished  her  success,  and  a  safe 
arrival  at  her  destined  port.  She  had  been  my 
home  for  thirteen  days ;  and,  although  there  were 
many  disagreeable  incidents  connected  with  our 
stay  on  board,  yet  she  had  appeared  to  render  as- 
sistance, when  our  hopes  were  at  the  lowest  ebb. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


57 


Under  these  considerations^  I  bade  her  adieu  as  an 
old  friend.  The  cupidity  of  her  captain  may  be 
illustrated  by  the  fact  of  his  presenting  a  bill  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  to  my  husband^  as  he 
was  about  leaving  th^  ship.  There  was  no  alterna- 
tive but  to  pay  it^  situated  as  we  were.  For  this 
mean  act  he  was  published.  The  news  reached  the 
ear  of  his  employer^  who  quickly  refunded  the 
amount,  and  also  discharged  him  from  his  employ. 
Once  again  we  met  the  Symmetry,  before  the  ter- 
mination of  this  never-to-be-forgotten  voyage. 
When  and  where,  time  and  future  pages  will  ex- 
plain. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Our  home  on  board  the  Fanchon  was  all  the 
most  fastidious  could  desire.  Captain  Lunt  was 
possessed  of  all  those  gentlemanly  attributes  which 
are  calculated  to  win  the  possessor  friends,  and  re- 
spect from  all  with  whom  he  associates.  Ever  joy- 
ous and  light-hearted,  the  salutary  effects  produced 
by  the  exercise  of  these  excellent  properties  seemed 


58 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


to  pervade  the  hearts  of  all  subject  to  his  control. 
He  also  being  a  judicious  disciplinarian^  the  greatest 
neatness  and  order  imaginable  prevailed  throughout 
the  ship.  Our  fancied  security  —  our  sanguine  ex- 
pectations that  our  troubles  from  fire  at  sea  were  at 
an  end  —  our  hopes  of  a  safe  and  speedy  termina- 
tion of  our  voyage  —  all  these  heart-cheering  feel- 
ings were  sustained  and  strengthened  by  reiterated 
assurances  from  Captain  Lunt  that  there  was  no 
danger  whatever  of  the  Fanchon's  burnings  she  was 
so  well  ventilated.  In  fact^  he  attributed  the  de- 
struction of  the  other  ships  to  want  of  proper  ven- 
tilation. Besides,  he  argued,  that  if  there  had  been 
the  least  probability  of  its  taking  fire,  it  would  have 
done  so  long  ago.  We  all  conceded  his  arguments 
were  decidedly  conclusive  ;  and,  for  a  few  days, 
anxiety,  fear,  suspense,  and  all  the  attendant  train 
of  harrowing  reflections,  were  strangers  to  my 
bosom.  But  as  frail  and  fleeting  as  are  all  the 
evanescent  joys  of  earth  were  my  hopes.  On  the 
25th  of  December,  in  the  evening,  as  we  sat  con- 
versing of  the  day,  and  the  manner  in  which  they 
were  celebrating  it  at  our  far  distant  homes,  and 
vainly  wishing  that,  by  another  Christmas,  our 
places  in  the  family  circle  would  not  be  vacant,  a 
puff  of  air  was  wafted  into  the  cabin,  so  strongly 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


59 


impregnated  with  gas  as  to  render  the  conviction 
certain  in  my  mind^  that  the  coal  was  on  fire.  I 
speedily  gave  utterance  to  my  fears^  which  met 
with  a  responsive  "  Pshaw !  you  have  inhaled  and 
smelt  gas  so  often,  it  has  become  accessory  to  your 
very  being." 

They  failed,  however,  in  eradicating  from  my 
mind  the  impression  that  the  coal  was  on  fire. 
Upon  retiring  for  the  night,  the  thought  of  being, 
for  the  third  time,  on  board  a  burning  ship,  so  ha- 
rassed me  as  to  completely  banish  slumber  from 
my  pillow.  Next  morning,  the  captain  instituted  a 
search  throughout  the  ship,  which  proved,  beyond 
a  doubt  in  his  mind,  there  could  be  no  fire.  We 
were  now  about  twelve  hundred  miles  from  land, 
with  a  fair  wind,  on  the  direct  course  for  San 
Francisco. 

Things  remained  in  this  state  for  two  or  three 
days.  I  cannot  affirm  that  the  minds  of  all  were 
perfectly  free  from  apprehension ;  yet,  as  strict 
watch  was  kept,  and  nothing  except  that  disagree- 
able smell  of  gas  was  apparent  to  confirm  my  fears, 
I  felt  a  little  more  at  rest.  The  third  day,  as  Capt. 
Lunt  was  watching  one  of  the  large  ventilators  on 
deck,  he  saw  something  having  the  appearance  of 
smoke  escaping  therefrom.    He  sprang  down  be- 


60 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


tween  decks  —  there  was  no  appearance  of  smoke 
or  fire  whatever  j  raised  the  lower  hatch  —  all  ap- 
peared as  usual.  He  then  ordered  the  second  mate 
to  dig  down  into  the  coal^  and  soon  proofs  beyond 
a  doubt  were  too  apparent.  The  coal  was  so  hot^ 
it  could  not  be  taken  in  the  hand.  The  whole 
body  of  coal,  two  or  three  feet  below  the  surface/ 
was  red  hot.  The  same  preparations  for  a  life  on 
board  a  burning  ship  were  again  repeated  that  it 
had  been  my  fortune  twice  previously  to  witness. 
In  this  instance,  we  had  not  to  contend  with  the 
elements  of  wind  and  water  as  well  as  fire ;  for  the 
ocean,  at  times,  was  as  smooth  and  transparent  as  a 
glass.  For  a  time.  Captain  Lunt  shaped  his  course 
for  the  Galapagos  Islands,  what  wind  there  was 
being  favorable  to  waft  us  in  that  direction ;  and, 
our  distance  from  the  islands  and  the  main-land 
being  nearly  equal,  he  was  undecided  for  some  time 
which  port  would  be  our  destination.  Being  within 
the  tropics,  the  weather  was  exceedingly  pleasant 
—  almost  too  much  so  for  our  benefit. 

For  several  days  in  succession,  it  would  remain 
perfectly  calm.  The  nights  were  beautifully  serene ; 
not  a  cloud,  or  the  slightest  film. of  vapor,  appeared 
on  the  face  of  the  deep  blue  canopy  of  the  heavens. 
The  moon,  and  countless  starry  host  of  the  firma- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


61 


ment,  exhibited  their  lustrous  splendor  in  a  perfec- 
tion of  brilUancy  unknown  to  the  night-watchers  in 
the  humid  regions  of  the  Atlantic.  The  ship  would 
be  lying  listlessly  upon  the  surface  of  the  unbroken 
waste  of  waters^  while  our  minds  were  constantly 
agitated  between  hope  and  fear,  —  hope,  that  each 
morn,  as  the  golden  orb  of  day  appeared  rising 
from  old  ocean's  bosom,  that,  ere  she  bid  us  fare- 
well at  eve,  some  welcome  sail  would  come  to  the 
rescue ;  and  fear,  as  each  returning  day  numbered 
disappointed  hopes,  and  increased  the  heat  on  ship- 
board, that  we  were  indeed  a  doomed  crew. 

At  night,  signal-lights  were  kept  burning,  in  the 
hope  of  attracting  the  attention  of  some  vessel 
which  might  be  passing.  For  days  look-outs  were 
stationed  aloft,  and  more  than  once  were  our  ears 
gladdened  with  the  joyful  cry  of  "  Sail,  ho  ! "  which 
as  often  proved  a  vain  illusion.  The  strained  vision 
and  anxious  solicitude  of  those  on  the  look-out 
caused  them  to  imagine  they  saw  that  which  they 
vainly  desired  to  behold. 

I  was  induced,  by  the  entreaties  and  advice  of 
my  husband,  seconded  by  those  of  Captain  Lunt,  to 
adopt  gentlemen's  apparel.  Considering  the  dan- 
ger and  exposure  we  might  be  subjected  to,  should 
we  be  compelled  to  remain  any  length  of  time  in 

6 


62 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


the  boats^  —  to  Avhicli;  unless  relief  arrived  from 
some  other  somxe^  we  should  resort  to  soon^  —  it 
was  not^  everything  considered^  a  bad  idea^,  which 
might  never  have  been  carried  into  effect  had  Capt. 
Lunt  been  as  large  in  stature  as  my  husband.  Ac- 
cordingly^  from  the  captain's  wardrobe  was  selected 
a  pair  of  black  pants^  a  green  hunting-coat^  black 
satin  vest^  bosom^  and  collar  worn  a  la  Byron,  and 
a  purple  velvet  smoking-cap.  Arrayed  in  this  garb^ 
I  was  scarcely  recognizable  by  my  friends  on  board. 
Days  came  and  passed,  and  yet  no  relief  appeared. 
Daily,  convincing  proofs  appeared  to  warn  us  of 
the  slow  but  sure  destruction  of  the  ship,  in  the 
form  of  gas  and  smoke,  which  were  escaping  through 
every  seam.  The  beautiful  paint-work  and  gilding 
of  the  cabin  assumed  the  darkest  hue ;  everything 
on  board  seemed  shrouded  in  the  sable  habiliments 
of  mourning.  Slowly  and  gradually  we  neared  the 
land ;  and,  after  three  weeks  of  intense  suspense 
and  solicitude,  the  exulting  cry  of  Land,  ho  ! "  was 
echoed  far  and  near.  It  was  an  uninhabited  part 
of  the  coast  of  Peru  —  a  small  bay,  or,  rather,  in- 
denture'made  in  at  this  place,  called  the  Bay  of 
Sechura.  Into  this  bay  the  ship  was  guided ;  and, 
when  about  two  miles  from  shore,  she  was  brought 
to  an  anchor,  at  about  four  o'clock,  p.  m.    As  soon 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


63 


as  the  wished-for  haven  appeared,  I  hastened  to  my 
state-room^  and  dofFed  my  male  attune,  supremely 
happy  to  exchange  what  I  had  so  reluctantly 
adopted,  and  Avhat  each  succeeding  day  of  usage 
rendered  still  more  distasteful.  Kest  assured,  0  ye 
of  the  opposite  sex,  that  I,  for  one,  will  never 
attempt  to  appropriate  to  myself  the  indispensables, 
or  the  love  of  lordly  power  which  usually  accom- 
panies them,  but  leave  you  in  undisputed  possession 
of  your  rights ! 

Long  before  we  reached  our  anchorage,  the  roar- 
ing of  the  surf,  as  it  dashed  upon  the  lonely  beach, 
sounded  like  a  mournful  dirge  to  our  ears.  There 
appeared  to  be  a  short  stretch  of  sandy  beach,  cir- 
cumscribed by  high  and  jutting  rocks.  Around  us, 
on  either  side,  were  innumerable  breakers,  threaten- 
ing destruction  as  we  approached  nearer ;  yet  we 
heeded  not  our  dangerous  proximity  to  sunken 
rocks,  but  the  noble  shij)  bounded  gayly  over  the 
waters,  unmindful  of  the  destiny  awaiting  the 
doomed. 

In  the  distance  could  be  discerned  the  Andes 
Mountains,  rearing  their  lofty  heads  in  silent  gran- 
deur, and  seeming  to  penetrate  the  blue  dome  of 
the  o'er-arching  heavens.  Immediately  upon  bring- 
ing the  ship  to  an  anchor,  preparations  w^ere  made 


64 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


to  effect  a  landing  in  the  boats.  Captain  Lnnt  and 
my  husband  deposited  their  nautical  instruments 
and  charts^  and  some  few  articles  of  clothing,  in  a 
chest  which  they  had  rendered  as  nearly  v/ater- 
proof  as  possible,  and  consigned  it  to  one  of  the 
boats.  We  threw  overboard  all  the  spare  spars 
upon  deck,  and  everything  that  would  float.  We 
had  no  provisions  or  water  to  take  on  shore,  and 
had  been  refreshed  with  none  through  the  day. 
There  was  one  pig  on  board  that  had  left  Baltimore 
in  the  ship,  and  one  hen.  These,  together  with  my 
pet-goat,  the  sailors  took  under  their  own  immediate 
protection,  and  succeeded  in  landing  them  on  the 
beach.  The  pig,  in  the  height  of  his  terror,  beat 
an  instantaneous  retreat  into  one  of  the  numerous 
caves,  or  recesses,  situated  at  the  base  of  perpendi- 
cular cUffs,  which  rose  nearly  two  hundred  feet,  and 
presented  an  effectual  barrier  to  any  attempt  that 
might  be  made  to  scale  them.  I  recollect  distinctly 
my  sensations  on  leaving  the  ship  in  a  boat;  how 
intently  I  watched  the  foaming  surf  we  were  fast  . 
approaching,  and  which  had  already  engulfed  the 
boat  in  advance ;  then  an  indistinct  recollection  of 
roaring  and  splashing  of  water,  —  of  voices  heard 
above  the  din  of  all,  giving  directions,  —  of  being 
dragged,  minus  bonnet  and  shawl,  through  the  surf 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  65 

upon  the  sandy  beach.  Of  my  very  unceremonious 
introduction  within  the  precincts  of  the  province 
of  Peru^  I  have  no  very  pleasing  recollections. 
After  removing  everything  off  the  ship's  deck,  they 
ran  her  still  nearer  in^  and  scuttled  her ;  but  the 
fire  had  made  such  progress^  it  was  impossible  to 
save  her.  In  two  hours  after  we  left  her  deck;,  she 
burst  out  into  a  sheet  of  flame.  The  fire  caught  to 
the  sails^  which  were  spread  to  the  breeze^  and  she 
was  a  sheet  of  fire  to  the  mast-heads.  Here^  in  this 
lonely  bay,  lay  the  fine  ship  Fanchon,  and  burnt  to 
the  water's  edge.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  almost 
awful  profoundness  of  the  solitude  by  which  we 
were  surrounded  —  a  silence  broken  only  by  the 
roaring  and  crackling  of  the  flames,  as  they  wreath- 
ed and  shot  far  upward,  illuminating  the  midnight 
darkness,  and  casting  the  reflection  of  their  fiery 
glare  far  out  over  the  lonely  deep,  —  and  the  deep 
roar  of  the  eternally  restless  waves,  as  they  dashed 
in  rapid  succession  upon  the  beach  at  our  feet.  It 
is  quite  impossible  to  convey  by  language  an  ade- 
quate conception  of  the  solemn  magnificence  of 
this  midnight  scene.  The  burning  ship  in  the  fore- 
ground, the  light  from  which  revealed  the  sublime 
altitude  of  the  mountains  in  the  background,  whose 
barren  heads  seemed  to  pierce  the  sky,  every  ob- 


66 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


ject  distinctly  claguerreotjped ;  the  rocks  on  either 
hand,  la,ved  for  ages  by  the  white  sea-foam ;  the 
bald  and  inaccessible  cliffs  in  close  proximity,  in 
the  rear;  and  twenty-six  human  beings  (myself 
numbering  the  only  female)  standing  upon  the 
narrow  beach,  viewing  silently  the  work  of  destruc- 
tion, rapidly  progressing,  which  deprived  us  of  a 
home,  and  the  necessary  sustenance  required  to 
support  life,  —  only  a  skilful  artist,  with  his  pencil 
and  brush,  could  do  justice  to  the  picture  here 
drawn.  By  three  o'clock  that  night,  nought  re- 
mained to  mark  the  spot  —  where,  a  few  hours  pre- 
vious, lay  the  gallant  ship  —  but  a  smoking  hulk. 

I  sank  into  an  unquiet  slumber  superinduced  by 
exhaustion,  fairly  cried  myself  to  sleep,  and  rested 
my  weary  limbs  upon  a  couch  of  beach-sand.  Next 
morning,  we  discovered  several  rafts  (or,  as  they 
are  there  denominated,  balsas)  coming  into  the 
bay.  They  were  covered  with  Indians  —  a  sort  of 
mongrel  race,  who  live  principally  upon  their 
balsas,  scarcely  ever  visiting  the  shore  excejot  to 
procure  water  and  potatoes.  They  subsist  mostly 
upon  raw  fish.  They  speak  the  Spanish  language. 
They  anchored  their  crafts  outside  the  surf,  then 
dove  into  the  water,  and  swam  to  the  shore.  They 
were  nearly  in  a  state  of  nudity.    Their  demeanor 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


67 


was  entirely  pacific.  They  advanced  towards  us 
with  hands  extended,  in  token  of  friendship.  They 
had  been  attracted  to  the  spot  by  the  hght  from 
the  burning  ship,  and  had  assembled  in  consider- 
able numbers,  doubtless  in  the  hope  of  obtaining 
pillage,  as  they  rather  demurred  in  rendering  any 
assistance,  unless  stimulated  by  a  promise  of  com- 
pensation. For  ^-mucha  pesos,"  they  agreed  to 
furnish  us  with  water  and  sweet  potatoes  while  we 
remained  upon  the  beach.  They  peremptorily  re- 
fused to  take  us  to  Payta,  —  the  nearest  settlement, 
which  was  fifty  miles  distant,  —  thinking,  doubtless, 
it  would  be  a  more  profitable  speculation  for  them 
to  protract  our  stay  upon  the  beach,  until,  at  least, 
the  "j)^sos"  were  all  gone.  I  was  constrained  to 
offer  my  pet-goat  to  them,  in  exchange  for  water : 
she  had  long  since  ceased  to  furnish  milk.  Poor 
thing !  after  having  encountered  so  many  fiery 
trials,  she  was  but*  a  wreck  of  her  former  self  Much 
as  I  regretted  to  part  with  her,  I  felt  it  to  be  a  duty 
I  owed  her,  for  past  favors  received,  to  mitigate  her 
woes  as  far  as  it  lay  in  my  power.  With  a  last,  sad, 
lingering  look  at  her  mistress,  and  a  despairing 
farewell  bleat,  she  was  dragged  away.  The  natives 
informed  us  we  were  fifteen  leagues  from  any  fresh 
water ;  thereby  giving  us  to  understand  that  we 


68 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


were  very  dependent  mortals.  They  then  departed^ 
promising  to  come  on  the  morrow  with  a  fresh  sup- 
ply. Their  balsas  are  constructed  of  very  buoyant, 
porous  logs,  bound  together  in  the  form  of  a  raft ; 
then  another  layer,  transverse  the  former.  In  the 
centre,  it  is  raised  still  higher. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Here  indeed  was  a  new  phase  of  existence, 
gloomy  enough  in  anticipation,  yet  far  preferable 
to  the  dangerous  scenes  in  which  it  had  heretofore 
been  my  fortune  to  participate.  Tlie  sailors  pitched 
four  small  tents  ]  two  for  themselves,  and  two  for 
the  officers.  These  served  for  a  shelter  at  night ; 
but,  during  the  day,  when  the  sun  shone  with  an 
almost  scorching  fervency  of  heat,  unmitigated  by 
a  single  cloud  on  the  face  of  the  slv}^,  it  was  almost 
impossible  to  remain  in  them.  To  augment  our 
troubles,  the  fleas  were  so  numerous  and  so  blood- 
thirsty, that  for  a  few  days  I  was  in  perpetual  mo- 
tion. When  once  they  made  a  lodgment  in"  our 
clothing,  it  was  useless  to  attempt  to  exterminate 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


69 


them ;  and  ilwj  never  capitulate.  At  nighty  npon 
retiring,  our  only  preparation  was  to  spread  a  blan- 
ket upon  the  sand,  and  lie  down  upon  it.  In  the 
morning,  we  would  find  ourselves  almost  imbedded 
in  the  loose  beach-sand ;  for^  upon  the  dry  part  of 
the  beach,  it  was  quite  deep.  I  would  rise,  and 
shake  my  head  to  dislodge  the  quantity  of  sand 
there  collected.  My  hair  was  hanging  unconfined 
over  my  shoulders,  having  lost  comb,  hair-pins,  and 
bonnet.  I  would  walk  down  to  the  shore  of  the 
Pacific,  —  an  ample  wash-bowl,  certainly,  —  and 
perform  my  ablutions,  dispensing,  of  necessity,  with 
all  the  modern  appurtenances  of  a  lady's  toilet. 

Captain  Lunt  proposed  to  send  to  the  American 
Consul  at  Payta  for  assistance  to  remove  us  from 
the  beach.  His  mate,  Mr.  McCrelles,  of  Belfast, 
Maine,  volunteered  to  go,  accompanied  by  four  of 
the  sailors.  The  next  day  after  our  arrival  there, 
they  embarked  on  their  voyage  to  obtain  the  relief 
we  so  much  needed.  Their  directions  were,  to 
keep  close  in  shore ;  and,  with  God's  blessing,  they 
would  arrive  at  Payta,  and  assistance  would  reach 
us  at  the  expiration  of  a  week.  AVe  watched  the 
little  boat  until  she  looked  like  a  speck  upon  the 
Avater ;  and,  with  many  an  unuttered  prayer  for 
her  safe  arrival,  we  turned  our  thoughts  landward, 


YO 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


—  I  to  amuse  myself  by  selecting  the  most  beauti 
ful  shells  I  could  find :  they  were  very  numerous 
among  the  rocks  at  each  extremity  of  the  beach. 
I  was  never  lonely :  I  found  companions  in  my  own 
thoughts ;  and  they  were  oftentimes  pleasanter 
than  the  gayer  ones  of  the  world  would  have  been^ 
for  they  whispered  of  home  and  loved  friends. 

There  was  the  skeleton  of  a  whale  perfect^  and 
entirely  exposed.  How  long  the  remains  of  this 
huge  aquatic  monster  had  been  bleaching  under 
the  scorching  rays  of  that  tropical  sun^  we  had  no 
means  of  ascertaining. 

The  Indians  faithfully  kept  their  promise^  and 
each  succeechng  day  they  visited  us  with  a  plentiful 
supply  of  water  and  potatoes ;  the  bill  of  fare  varied 
occasionally  by  the  introduction  of  some  very 
offensive  fowl;  which  they  positively  asserted  were 
"  esta  bueno."  An  amusement  in  which  I  often  in- 
dulged was  to  chase  innumerable  crabs^  with  which 
the  beach  was  literally  covered  in  the  mornings. 
They  would^  upon  the  first  intimation  of  pursuit, 
disappear  instantly  into  their  holes  in  the  hard 
sand.  By  remaining  perfectly  quiet  for  some  time, 
they  would  again  assemble  in  numbers,  which  the 
least  movement  on  my  part  would  again  put  to 
flight.    They  would  make  greater  progress  running 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


71 


sideways  than  I  could  any  way ;  therefore^  I  never 
caught  one. 

The  pig  remained  secreted  in  his  cavernous  re- 
treaty  which  no  entreaties  on  our  part  could  induce 
him  to  vacate.  Not  until  driven  to  the  last  ex- 
tremity by  the  pangs  of  hunger^  did  he  venture  to 
reconnoitre  from  the  aperture.  After  viewing  his 
companions  in  distress  for  a  little  time^  he  gained 
sufficient  courage  to  eat  potatoes  from  my  hand. 
After  that;  he  became  quite  domesticated^  and^  with 
the  hen,  used  to  share  the  sailors'  tent  with  them 
at  nights. 

During  this  time,  I  was  unconsciously  assuming 
the  dark  and  swarthy  hue  of  the  native  women^ 
from  being  constantly  exposed  to  the  scorching 
glare  of  a  tropical  sun.  My  habiliments^  too,  were 
becoming  exceedingly  soiled^  from  constant  use 
both  by  night  and  day. 

The  love  and  spirit  of  adventure  had,  from  ear- 
liest infancy,  been  strongly  implanted  in  my  nature ; 
and,  during  this  voyage,  certainly,  this  predilection 
for  thrilUng  adventure  had  been  amply  gratified. 
Yet,  had  not  the  fiery  ordeal  through  which  it  had 
pleased  the  God  of  love  to  bring  me  been  for  good, 
it  would  have  been  averted. 

A  week  had  now  elapsed  since  the  departure  of 


72  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  boat.  Intently  we  scanned  the  ocean^  in  the 
hope  of  descrying  the  anxiously  expected  sail. 
NightS;  at  the  hour  of  twilight,  I  would  seat  myself 
upon  the  rocks  to  indulge  in  the  reveries  which 
that  most  fitting  hour  for  reflection  usually  calls 
up.  The  mind  feels  a  soothing  influence  as  the 
light  of  day  fades  gradually  from  sight.  At  such 
times  memory  is  busy  with  the  past* —  the  distant 
home,  the  loved  friends  there  assembled.  I  often 
wandered  in  this  way  through  the  spirit-land  of 
old  times.  One  night  I  was  startled  by  the  exult- 
ant cry  of  "  A  sail !  a  sail ! "  Being  fearful  lest 
some  casualty  had  befallen  the  boat,  and  she  had 
never  reached  Payta,  Captain  Lunt  deemed  it 
advisable  to  make  signals,  in  the  hope  of  attracting 
attention.  She  kept  on  her  way,  apparently  un- 
mindful of  the  signals  which  she  could  not  but 
have  seen,  as  the  captain  had  sent  up  a  rocket, 
which  he  had  preserved  in  the  water-proof  chest. 
Darkness  now  hid  her  from  our  view ;  and  we  sat 
down,  wondering  that  no  answering  signal  had 
been  displayed  to  our  call  for  succor. 

We  repaired  to  our  tent  with  our  minds  illy 
reconciled  to  passing  another  night  victims  to  the 
insatiable  fleas,  whose  cry  still  was.  Blood,  blood. 
All  at  once  we  heard  the  clanking  of  chains  letting 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


73 


go  an  anchor.  All  rushed  out^  and  there  lay  a 
dark  object  in.  the  offing.  Soon  we  heard  the 
splash  of  oars ;  and  in  a  short  time  Mr.  McCrellis, 
his  countenance  beaming  with  smiles^  stood  in  our 
midst.  He  was  accompanied  by  Captain  Hillman^, 
originally  of  New  Bedford.  His  bark  had  been 
chartered  by  the  American  consul  to  come  to  our 
rescue.  The  next  morning  we  bade  farewell  to 
rocks,  and  sand,  and  fleas,  and  repaired  on  board 
the  bark,  where,  for  the  first  time  since  leaving 
the  Fanchon,  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  my  sun-burned, 
swarthy  countenance.  The  poisonous  bite  of  the 
fleas  had  contributed  their  share  towards  imparting 
to  my  skin  the  appearance  of  a  person  suffering 
from  measles,  small-pox,  and  erysipelas  combined. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

As  you  enter  the  harbor  of  Payta  from  sea,  the 
town  presents  a  most  uninviting  appearance.  It 
is  built  at  the  base  of  sand  hills.  The  houses  have 
the  appearance  of  mud  huts ;  the  roofs  covered 
with  tile.    Upon  a  nearer  approach,  not  a  green 

7 


74 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIEIC. 


thing  can  be  discovered  except  the  balconies  of 
some  of  the  finer  houses.  The  consul^  tired^  as  he 
said^  of  eternally  seeing  sand  hills  and  sand-colored 
dwellings^  had  relieved  Che  monotony  of  the  scene 
by  substituting  green  paint  wherever  an  opportu- 
nity presented.  At  this  time  the  town  numbered 
about  four  thousand  inhabitants.  They  came  to 
an  anchor  some  distance  from  the  shore^  and  were 
soon  surrounded  by  boats.  The  English^  French^ 
and  American  consuls  came  on  board^  each  equally 
desirous  of  giving  us  a  home,  and  contributing  in 
any  way  to  render  our  stay  with  them  as  pleasant 
as  possible.  We  repaired  to  the  house  of  the 
American  consul  —  Mr.  Euden,  of  New  York,  who 
has  a  mercantile  house  established  there.  This 
house  is  very  spacious,  constructed  upon  the  Span- 
ish plan  of  architecture,  and  constructed  wholly 
after  the  manner  of  South  American  houses.  The 
whole  front  of  the  lower  part  is  appropriated  to 
business. 

A  wide  and  pleasant  balcony  surrounds  the 
entire  house  at  the  second  story.  Large  windows, 
and  still  larger  doors,  open  upon  this  balcony,  and 
render  it  an  airy  and  delightful  residence.  From 
this  balcony  you  have  a  fine  view  of  the  harbor, 
dotted  with  ships  of  almost  every  nation.  In 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


75 


addition  —  and  not  a  very  pleasant  auxiliary^  to 
be  sure  —  are  multitudes  of  natives  constantly 
sea-bathing,  and  frolicking  in  the  water.  I  often 
wondered  if  some  of  them  were  not  really  amphib- 
ious. Mi:.  Ruden's  household  consisted  of  himself 
and  four  gentlemen  belonging  to  ^  the  firm.  All 
his  servants  were  male  natives^  and  he  employed 
quite  a  number,  with  a  major  domo  to  superintend 
them.  Upon  entering  the  spacious  parlor,  my 
attention  was  attracted  to  the  portrait  of  a  lady 
with  such  a  pleasant  expression  of  countenance 
tliat  I  hoped  the  original  was  not  far  distant.  ,  In 
this,  however,  I  was  disappointed.  It  was  a  por- 
trait of  Mr.  Ruden's  mother,  a  resident  of  New 
York  city.  Mr.  Ruden  was  a  bachelor  ;  thus  again 
was  I  deprived  of  female  companionship.  Eighteen 
years  of  his  life  had  been  passed  in  South  America, 
where  he  had  amassed  quite  a  fortune. 

I  often  availed  myself  of  the  use  of  Mr.  Ruden's 
library.  In  this  room  was  suspended  a  hempen 
hammock,  in  which  I  enjoyed  many  a  delightful 
siesta.  The  bedsteads  were  all  of  polished  brass, 
and  very  beautifully  curtained  with  bright-colored 
satin.  Some  of  them  cost  as  high  as  one  thousand 
dollars.  The  pillow-slips  and  counterpanes  were  solid 
embroidery,  executed  by  the  dehcate  hands  of  the 


76 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


lovely  Spanish  senoritas.  They  were  placed  on  the 
beds  over  a  lining  of  pink  or  blue  cambric^  thereby 
displaying  to  great  advantage  the  fine  needle-work. 
Even  the  toiletrtowels  were  embroidered  at  each 
end  a  quarter  of  a  yard  in  depth^  and  then  fringed. 
We  breakfasted  at  ten  o'clock^  and  dined  at  five^ 
p.  M.  At  nine^  p.  m.;,  a  servant  would  bring  us  a  most 
excellent  cup  of  tea^  which  we  generally  enjoyed 
seated  upon  the  balcony.  Through  the  day  we 
were  regaled  with  all  the  delicious  fruits  indige- 
nous to  a  tropical  clime,  among  which  were  several 
kinds  I  had  never  before  tasted  —  the  palta  and 
cherrymoyer.  The  first-named  is  shaped  some- 
thing like  cucumber,  and  is  eaten  with  pepper  and 
salt.  The  flavor  of  the  cherrymoyer  is  perfectly 
delicious.  This  fruit  is  about  the  size  of  the  largest 
kind  of  Baldwin  apple,  and  very  pulpous.  The 
fruit,  together  with  the  water,  and  all  the  vegeta- 
bles consumed  in  Payta,  and  all  with  which  the 
shipping  is  supplied,  is  transported  across  a  desert 
of  sixteen  miles  in  width,  upon  mules'  backs,  from 
a  town  called  Piura  —  a  perfect  garden  of  Eden, 
through  which  flows  a  j)ellucid  river.  When  the 
ladies  of  Payta  visit  Piura  to  refresh  themselves 
with  a  sight  of  the  beautiful  in  nature,  they  are 
transported  in  a  palanquin,  which  is  rested  upon 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  77 

the  shoulders  of  natives.  On  the  desert  there  is 
not  a  tree  or  shrub  to  mark  one's  course.  It  is 
deep  sand^  from  which  footprints  are  quickly  erased. 
A  pocket-compass  is  indispensable  in  crossing. 

There  was  a  church  near  to  Mr.  Ruden's  house^ 
which  I  often  frequented  —  at  the  matin  hour^  and 
again  at  vespers  —  to  get  a  view  of  the  lovely 
brunettes,  who,  w^ith  heads  uncovered,  were  kneel- 
ing in  every  direction,  upon  soft  mats  brought 
every  day  by  a  servant,  following  in  close  prox- 
imity to  the  senora  or  senorit^;.  I  admire  their 
style  of  beauty.  The  clear  olive  complexion ;  the 
soul  and  sympathy  which  beam  from  their  dark, 
lustrous  eyes  ;  their  long,  black,  glossy  hair ;  their 
natural  ease,  grace,  and  warmth  of  manner ;  the 
lip  so  full  of  sentiment  and  love,  that,  if  the  eyes 
were  closed,  the  face  would  retain  its  exquisite 
expression ;  their  vivacity  of  manner  in  conversa- 
tion —  all  unite  to  form  a  lovely  and  fascinating 
woman. 

The  walls  of  the  churches  are  hung  with  coarse 
paintings,  and  engravings  of  the  saints,  etc.,  etc. 
The  chancel  is  decorated  with  numerous  images 
and  symbolic  ornaments  used  by  the  priests  in 
their  worship.  Gold  paper  and  tinsel  in  barbaric 
taste  are  plastered  without  stint  upon  nearly  every 

7'-^ 


78 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


object  that  meets  the  eye.  When^  on  festive  occa- 
sions^  the  '  church  is  lighted^  it  presents  a  very 
ghttering  appearance.  The  tastes  and  predilec- 
tions of  the  priests  are  totally  nnlike  what  one 
would  suppose  their  sacred  offices  would  instigate. 
I  have  seen  a  priest  leave  the  churchy  walk  directly 
to  his  house^  take  two  fighting-cocks^  one  under 
each  arm^  and  repair  to  the  scene  of  cock-fighting, 
and  there  spend  hours  in  betting. 

"While  at  Payta^  the  United  States  sloop-of-war 
Vincennes^  Commander  Hudson^  arrived  in  port. 
The  officers  frequently  dined  with  Mr.  Euden. 
By  invitation  of  Captain  Hudson^  we  all  dined  on 
board  the  Vincennes.  We  were  welcomed  along- 
side by  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  —  a  compli- 
ment usually  conferred  upon  a  consul  when  he 
visits  ships  of  the  line.  We  spent  the  afternoon 
most  agreeably ;  and  the  refined  hospitality^  cour- 
teous manners^  intelligent  and  interesting  conversa- 
tion of  our  host^  made  us  regret  the  rapidly  fleeing 
moments.  It  was  a  beautiful  moonlight  eve  when 
we  left  the  Vincennes  in  the  captain's  barge,  rowed 
by  those  men-of-war  sailors,  dressed  with  such  uni-  - 
form  neatness.  Not  a  ripple  disturbed  the  placid 
and  glossy  surface  of  the  water.  At  night  so  pure 
is  the  atmosphere,  that  the  moon  gives  a  light 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


79 


sufficiently  powerful  for  the  purposes  of  the  reader 
or  student  who  has  good  eyesight.  There  is  no 
necessity  of  burning  the  "midnight  oil;"  nature 
here  lights  the  lamp  for  the  bookworm.  So  phos- 
phorescent is  the  water^  that  every  dijD  of  the  oars 
is  followed  by  a  stream  of  light  resembling  fire. 
When  we  Avere  at  Payta^  we  were  informed  that 
no  rain  had  fallen  during  the  preceding  seven 
years.  We  met  there  a  friend  from  whom  we  had 
parted  on  the  broad  Pacific^  never  expecting  to 
meet  again  —  Captain  McKenzie.  Yes !  the  pleas- 
ant Scotch  captain  we  left  on  board  the  Symmetry. 
Captain  Thompson  had  faithfully  fulfilled  the  stip- 
ulation to  leave  them  near  the  port  of  Valparaiso. 
From  thence  he  had  taken  passage  in  an  English 
steamer  bound  to  Panama^  and  from  there  he 
would  cross  the  isthmus^  proceed  to  New  York, 
and  from  there  to  England.  The  steamer  touched 
at  Payta  to  remain  an  hour,  and  Captain  McKenzie 
stepped  on  shore  to  have  a  view  of  the  town. 
Nearly  the  first  persons  he  saw  were  Captain  Lunt 
and  my  husband.  When  he  parted  from  us  last, 
we  were  bound  to  San  Francisco.  Judge^  then^  of 
his  astonishment  at  meeting  fhem  there.  He  knew 
at  once  some  unforeseen  calamity  had  driven  them 
from  their  course.     From  "|)revious  events  his 


80 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


thoughts  naturally  reverted  to  fire ;  and  his  first 
exclamation  was^  My  God !  you  have  been  burnt 
out  again  !  "  Too  true.  All  was  then  explained. 
There  they  met^  at  a  port  neither  of  them  intended 
to  visit  —  the  three  captains  who  had  lost  their 
ships  by  fire.  He  paid  me  a  passing  visit  at  the 
house^  then  departed  on  his  way  to  his  distant 
home^  to  gladden  the  anxious  hearts  of  wife  and 
children.  I  have  never  seen  or  heard  from  him 
since.  But^  whenever  my  thoughts  revert  to  him, 
the  recollection  is  always  flavored  with  old  Scotch 
whiskey. 

The  bark  Carbargo,  Captain  Barstow,  was  load- 
ing at  Payta  for  Panama.  The  captain  was  a 
native  of  Pembroke,  Mass.,  and,  being  acquainted 
with  our  friends  at  home,  felt  quite  an  interest  in 
our  welfare.  He  very  kindly  offered  to  give  us  a 
passage  to  Panama.  Upon  his  assuring  me  he  had 
not  a  cargo  of  coal,  but  mules,  sheep,  and  fowl 
instead,  I  felt  I  might  safely  trust  myself  once 
more  on  board  another  vessel.  It  was  a  lovely 
day  we  bade  good-bye  to  Mr.  Euden  and  other 
friends,  with  whom  we  had  passed  many  pleasant 
hours  during  a  four  weeks'  sojourn  at  Payta.  T 
had  changed  somewhat  in  my  personal  appearance 
since  first  I  beheld  those  everlasting  sand-hills. 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


81 


My  wardrobe^  too,  had  been  replenished.  I  was 
really  a  gainer  by  my  temporary  stay  at  Payta, 
and  departed  with  a  lighter  heart.  Hope  seemed 
to  whisper  of  a  cloudless  to-morrow.  How  wisely 
ordered;  how  characteristic  of  our  natures,  to  hope 
on,  hope  ever !  When  Hope  deserts  her  throne, 
we  are,  indeed,  like  a  lost  mariner  without  chart 
or  compass. 

Here  we  are  again  on  ship-board ;  and  I  have  no 
better  business,  all  these  long  summer  days,  than 
to  watch  those  thirty  large  mules,  ranged  along 
the  deck,  fifteen  on  a  side,  their  heads  facing  the 
vessel's  rail,  with  just  a  path  between  the  rows. 
They  were  the  finest-looking  mules  I  ever  saw. 
The  South  American  mule  is  larger,  as  a  general 
g,  than  the  Mexican  mule.  The  captain  antici- 
)d  realizing  a  handsome  sum  for  them.  They 
were  in  excellent  order,  and  were  blessed  with 
such  nice  long  tails,  which  is  considered  quite  an 
acquisition.  One  morning  early,  I  heard  such  a 
loud  talking  on  deck,  and  in  no  very  pleasant  tones 
either,  I  conjectured  something  awful  had  hap- 
pened. I  soon  ascertained  the  cause  of  the  clamor. 
One  of  the  mules  had  broken  his  fastening  in  the 
night,  and,  not  being  discovered,  had  the  extreme 
audacity  to  deprive  nearly  all  his  brother  mules  of 


82 


sgeot:s  in  the  pacific. 


their  dearly  prized  appendages,  eating  the  hair 
square  off^  up  to  the  fleshy  part  of  their  tail.  It 
appears  they  invariably  practise  this  habit  when- 
ever they  can  get  them  in  a  position  where  they 
can  make  no  resistance.  The  sheep  were  between 
decks.  The  heat  must  have  been  almost  insup- 
portable. They  would  gather  round  the  wind-sail 
with  their  noses  up,  panting  terribly.  It  was  not 
an  agreeable  cargo ;  yet  I  had  no  fears  of  sponta- 
neous combustion,  although  I  afterwards  learned 
there  was  coal  in  for  ballast. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Upon  arriving  in  the  harbor  of  Panama,  we  came 
to  an  anchor  about  two  miles  from  the  city.  Ships 
scarcely  ever  go  nearer  on  account  of  rocks.  It  is 
not  a  very  good  harbor  for  vessels  to  lie  in  with 
safety,  it  is  so  open.  At  anchor  close  by  us  was 
the  ship  Marianna,  of  San  Francisco,  Captain  Ros- 
siter.  He  recognized  my  husband  as  an  old  ac- 
quaintance, invited  us  on  board  his  ship,  where  he 
was  enjoying  the  society  of  his  wife  and  an  inter- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


83 


esting  little  child.  Captain  Eossiter  informed  us 
lie  was  going  to  take  his  ship  down  to  Taboga^  an 
island  which  lies  about  ten  miles  from  Panama. 
The  P.  M.  S.  S.  Co.  have  a  depot  there.  All  the 
steamerS;  when  in  port,  lie  there.  The  shipping 
frequent  this  place  to  get  a  supply  of  water,  which 
gushes  in  clear  rivulets  down  the  sides  of  the 
mountains.  A  little  steamer  plies  constantly  be- 
tween Taboga  and  Panama  for  the  accommodation 
of  passengers,  who  are  constantly  flocking  from  the 
miasma-infected  city  of  Panama,  to  inhale  the  health- 
breathing  zephyrs  of  this  island  retreat.  The  shore 
is  very  bold.  Ships  of  the  largest  tonnage  lie 
within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  shore.  Nearly  all  the 
washing  is  carried  from  the  city,  and  here  cleansed 
in  the  running  streams  by  the  native  women,  and 
^read  upon  the  bushes  to  dry.  At  this  time  there 
were  three  hotels  there,  and  quite  a  number  of 
native  populace.  Since  the  time  I  allude  to,  they 
have  been  visited  by  a  destructive  fire.  It  has 
been  rebuilt,  however.  We  spent  one  happy  week 
here.  Daily  Mrs.  Eossiter  and  myself  wandered 
up  and  down  the  mountain's  side,  protected  from 
the  sun's  rays  by  the  umbrageou.s  foliage  which 
formed  a  complete  net-work  above  our  heads.  Here 
grew  the  cocoa- nut  and  pine-apple.    The  monkeys 


84 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


chattered  and  swung  from  branch  to  branch  above 
our  heads.  The  parrot  and  paroquet  screamed  at 
us  from  their  leafy  habitations.  Birds  of  beautiful 
plumage  were  carolling  their  sweetest  notes^  giving 
to  these  sylvan  mountain-slopes  a  truly  vivifying 
appearance.  Here^,  thought  I;  in  company  with 
loved  ones^  could  I  dream  away  a  happy  existence. 
The  impersonations  of  romance  and  solitude  .could 
scarcely  find  a  more  congenial  abode  than  this 
beautiful  and  sequestered  isle.  At  the  expiration, 
of  this  memory-treasured  week^  which  was^  indeed^ 
an  oasis  in  the  waste  over  which  I  had  been 
wafted^  we  returned  to  an  anchor  at  Panama,. 
That  night  I  was  suddenly  and  severely  attacked 
with  what  was  conceded  to  be^  by  all^  Panama 
fever  of  the  most  malignant  kind.  The  next  day  ^ 
I  was  carried  on  shore^  through  the  city^  to  a  house 
outside  the  city  gates^  owned  by  a  gentleman  from 
New  Orleans.  For  the  use  of  one  furnished  room 
and  board,  the  sum  of  forty  dollars  per  week  was 
required.  It  was  a  large,  barn-like  dwelling.  Nearly 
all  the  rooms  were  rented  to  Spaniards.  The  par- 
titions which  divided  the  house  into  apartments 
only  extended  to  a  height  sufficient  to  conceal 
the  occupants  from  one  another,  without  in  the 
least  obviating  the  noise  and  disturbance  naturally 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  85 

occurring  from  so  many  living  under  one  roof. 
Even  this  tenement^  rough  as  it  waS;  far  exceeded, 
in  point  of  cleanliness  and  healthy  location,  the 
crowded,  and  at  that  time  filthy,  hotels  of  the  city. 
Ours  was  a  corner  room  in  the  second  story,  front- 
ing the  street.   Large  doors,  very  much  resembling 
barn-doors,  opened  from  two  sides  of  the  room 
upon  a  balcony,  that  indispensable  appendage  to 
all  the  dwellings  situated  in  tropical  climes.  Every 
breath  of  air  which  fanned  my  burning  brow 
seemed  wafted  from  a  heated  furnace.    For  days  I 
lay  a  victim  to  that  consuming  fever,  part  of  the 
time  in  bhssful  unconsciousness.    I  say  blissful, 
because  my  thoughts  wandered  to  my  distant 
home,  and  I  was  relieved,  for  the  time  being,  from 
the  agonizing  thoughts  that  in  intervals  of  reason 
obtruded  themselves  upon  me.    I  was  attended  by 
no  physician.    Captain  Eossiter  administered  dose 
after  dose  of  calomel,  until  my  system  was  com- 
pletely, prostrated.    Well  w^as  it  for  me  that  my 
knowledge  of  the  Spanish  language  was  so  limited; 
otherwise  I  might  have  been  shocked  by  the  Ian 
guage  of  some  of  the  inmates  of  the  house.  Every 
footfall,  every  loud  w^ord,  echoed  and  reverberated 
through  that  hollow  building,  sending,  at  each 
recurrence,  a  pang  of  agony  through  my  burning 

8  - 


86 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


brain.  Fear^  too^  would  assert  her  sway  when  left 
alone,  as  I  oftentimes  was.  For  nearly  two  weeks 
the  fever  raged  incessantly;  after  which  time,  I 
gradually  convalesced. 

When  raised  by  pillows  in  my  bed,  I  had  a  view 
of  the  street  leading  to  the  rear  gates  of  the  city, 
and  day  after  day  could  I  see  the  silent  dead  borne 
to  their  last  resting-place.  At  that  time,  Panama 
was  crowded  with  Americans  waiting  to  be  con- 
veyed to  the  gold-studded  placers  of  California. 
Alas !  many  of  the  number  never  reached  the  goal 
they  so  ardently  desired,  and  for  which  they  had 
sacrificed  their  own  happiness,  and  that  of  those 
dearer  to  them  than  aught  else  except  gold,  the 
yellow  dust  of  temptation.  Truly  it  may  be  said 
to  be  the  root  of  all  evil,"  when  it  allures  thou- 
sands from  their  peaceful  homes,  to  meet  an  un- 
timely death.  Reflections  such  as  these  had  a  de- 
cided tendency  to  depress  still  more  my  already 
despondent  heart.  My  recovery,  at  times,  was  con- 
sidered doubtful.  It  was  too  sickly  to  entertain 
the  idea  of  remaining  there  longer  than  was  abso- 
lutely necessary.  I  was  too  weak  to  attempt  to 
cross  the  Isthmus ;  therefore,  all  hope  of  returning 
home  was  abandoned. 

It  was  decided  to  take  passage  at  once  for  San 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  87 


Francisco.  We  remained  one  month  at  Panama. 
Dm^ing  the  last  two  or  three  days  of  our  stay^  I 
walked  a  short  distance  each  day.  One  of  our 
walks  we  extended  as  far  as  the  burying-ground. 
What  a  shunned  and  desolate  spot  was  that  Ameri- 
can burial-ground  at  Panama^  —  a  mere  necessary 
receptacle  of  lifeless  flesh  and  crumbling  bones,  — 
not  even  a  stone  raised  to  mark  the  last  resting-place 
of  the  many  loved  friends  who  had  breathed  their 
last  sigh  in  a  strange  land,  and  by  strangers  been 
consigned  to  mother  earth !  A  little  piece  of  board 
was  sometimes  reared,  with  the  name,  age,  and 
place  of  residence,  marked  thereon ;  but  often  this 
little  mark  of  respect  and  affection  had  been  dis- 
placed by  mules,  numbers  of  which  are  constantly 
grazing  among  the  graves.  No  inclosure  protects 
these  often  nameless  mounds;  straggling  bushes 
struggle  with  rank  and  choking  weeds  that  overtop 
them.  The  whole  place  bears  a  deserted,  forsaken 
aspect  —  untrodden  by  the  feet  of  memory  and 
love.  It  is  within  sight  of  the  bay,  whose  waters, 
as  they  eternally  dash  against  the  ehore,  seem  to  be 
chanting  a  requiem  for  the  departed.  The  evening 
before  we  left  Panama,  our  attention  was  attracted 
by  wdiat  we  conceived  to  be  a  torch-light  procession, 
issuing  from  the  city  gate.    Upon  a  nearer  ap- 


88 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


proach;  it  proved  to  be  a  funeral  cortege.  First 
came  several  horsemen  bearing  torches ;  these  were 
followed  by  a  band  of  music^  playing  very  lively, 
heart-stirring  strains ;  then  came  an  open  bier,  car- 
ried by  natives^  upon  which  was  borne  the  lifeless 
remains  of  a  sweet  little  cherub,  a  lovely  Spanish 
child  —  lovely  even  in  death.  It  seemed  to  be  in 
a  sitting  posture.  In  each  hand  was  placed  a  wax 
candle  ;  wreaths  of  flowers  entwined  its  angelic 
brow,  and  were  strewn  in  rich  profusion  upon  the 
bier.  Innumerable  wax  tapers  were  inserted  around 
the  outer  edge  of  the  bier,  which  shed  an  ethereal 
halo  upon  the  little  form  of  clay,  which  had  so  re- 
cently been  the  pride  and  joy  of  fond  parents. 
Then  followed  another  company  of  equestrians  and 
pedestrians.  It  had  the  appearance  of  some  joyous 
festive  scene  rather  than  a  funeral  procession.  And, 
truly, 

«  Wliy  should  we  mourn  for  the  child  early  called 
From  the  sin  and  the  suffering  of  this  darkened  world  ? 
Though  ties  of  affection  may  early  be  riven, 
Why  wish  back  Ofi  earth  the  dear  loved  one  in  heaven  ?  " 

Oh,  how  I  suffered,  while  at  Panama,  for  a  draught 
of  cold  water,  to  allay  that  feverish,  burning  thirst 
which  seemed  to  be  consuming  the  very  life-blood 
in  my  veins !   By  the  time  they  could  get  the  clear, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


89 


cool  water  from  the  gurgling  rivulets  of  Taboga  to 
Panama,  it  would  be  tepid,  and  I  would  turn  from 
it  in  disgust.  Often,  in  my  hours  of  dehrium,  would 
I  fancy  myself  at  home,  travelling  again  the  little 
school  path.  I  would  arrive  at  the  running  brook 
which  wandered  through  green  meadows,  and  was 
spanned  by  a  rustic  bridge,  over  which,  for  twelve 
happy  years,  our  little  feet  had  skipped  each  day, 
on  the  way  to  and  from  school.  Then  I  would 
fancy  myself  leaning  far  over  the  grassy  brink  — 
so  far,  I  could  touch  my  lips  to  the  transparent  sur- 
face, and  imbibe  draught  after  draught  of  the  spark- 
ling liquid.  Pleasing  hallucination !  too  quickly 
dispelled  by  returning  reason.  In  my  lucid  mo- 
ments, I  was  ever  thinking  of  the  old  well  at  home, 
and  wishing  for  one  drink  from  the  ^^  moss-covered 
bucket."  I  felt  it  would  save  my  life,  when  all  else 
should  prove  abortive.  One  who  has  never  been 
prostrated  by  fever  in  a  burning  tropical  clime, 
when  it  was  utterly  impossible  to  obtain  ice  or  cool 
water,  can  scarcely  conceive  of  the  torture  and 
agony  endured.  Every  breath  of  air  is  a  simoom 
to  the  sufferer.  My  principal  sustenance  was  the 
banana  and  plantain. 

We  took  passage  in  the  steamer  Eepublic  for 
San  Francisco.    The  price  of  our  tickets  at  that 

8* 


90 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


time  were  six  hundred  dollars.  The  Republic  was 
commanded  by  Caj)tain  William  Hudson^  a  son  of 
the  commander  of  the  sloop-of-war  Yincennes.  He 
was  a  lieutenant  in  the  navy^  but  was  then  enjoying 
a  furlough  of  four  years^  which  he  improved  by 
taking  charge  of  the  Republic. 

I  saw  nothing  of  the  city  of  Panama  except  what 
met  the  eye  in  passing  through  its  narrow  streets^ 

—  more  properly^  lanes^  —  bounded  on  either  side 
by  high^  prison-looking  buildings^  with  iron  bars  in 
lieu  of  window-sashes.  Plenty  of  naked  natives^  all 
eager  to  carry  us  on  board  in  their  bungoes  (boats )^ 

—  a  noisy^  wrangling  set  they  were^  —  assembled 
there  upon  the  beach.  Immediately  upon  reaching 
the  steamer^  I  repaired  to  my  state-room^  and^  in 
an  exhausted  state^  was  assisted  into  my  berth.  I 
remained  in  this  situation  through  all  the  hurry 
and  bustle  incident  to  the  departure  of  an  ocean 
steamer^,  but  then  was  fated  to  be  disturbed  in  a 
manner  I  little  dreamed  of  A  lady  came  to  the 
state-room^  and  very  unceremoniously  demanded 
my  berths  saying  her  ticket^  which  she  had  pur- 
chased in  New  York^  called  for  it.  Here  was  a 
dilemma !  The  ticket  calling  for  that  berth  had 
been  sold  twice.  Captain  Hudson  was  called  to  the 
rescue.    He  decided  I  should  not  be  removed.  He 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


91 


had  previously  been  informed  of  the  series  of  acci- 
dents  that  had  befallen  ns  on  our  eventful  voyage^ 
and  declared^  laughingly^,  that,  unless  routed  by 
fire,  I  should  not  be  molested.  He  offered  to  pro- 
vide the  lady  from  New  York  with  another  room ; 
which  she  obstinately  refused  to  occupy,  vehemently 
averring  that  she  would  lie  upon  the  cabin-floor, 
and  prosecute  the  company  for  practising  such  du- 
plicity. This  threat  she  put  in  execution  upon  her 
arrival  at  San  Francisco,  and  received  compensation 
to  the  amount  of  several  thousand  dollars. 

Upon  getting  out  to  sea,  my  recovery  was  visibly 
accelerated  by  the  invigorating  sea-breezes  and 
cheerful  companionship  of  our  fellow-voyagers.  I 
made  many  pleasant  acquaintances,  and  formed 
friendships  which  have  endured  to  the  present,  — 
not  the  fashionable  friendship  of  an  hour,  which 
dishonor  the  name,  but  attachments  that  have  stood 
the  test  of  adversity  and  misfortunes.  The  steamer 
Eepublic  had  on  board  four  hundred  passengers. 
Thirty  out  of  this  number  were  ladies,  —  the  largest 
number  which,  at  that  time,  had  been  taken  on 
board  any  one  steamer  to  San  Francisco.  There 
were  but  very  few  of  them  accompanied  by  their 
husbands ;  the  remainder  were  going  to  meet  their 
liege  lords,  from  whom  they  had  been  separated, 


92 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


some  two  years  and  longer.  It  was  very  amnsing 
to  listen  to  the  various  conjectures  advanced  as  to 
the  probability  of  their  being  recognizable^  after 
being  for  so  long  a  time  strangers  to  the  hair-cHp- 
ping  propensity  of  the  razor.  In  those  early  days 
of  California  hair-producing  memory^  when  the 
passion  for  gold-hunting  completely  absorbed  all 
other  faculties^  but  very  little  time  or  attention 
was  expended  upon  their  persons. 

The  steamer  put  into  Acapulco  to  coal  up.  The 
harbor  reminded  me  somewhat  of  Port  Stanley, 
although  it  is  not  quite  so  completely  land-locked. 
The  natives  swam  off  to  the  ship  in  numbers ;  while 
the  passengers  amused  themselves  by  throwing 
over  pieces  of  money^,  which,  as  it  was  sinking,  they 
dove  after,  and  obtained  with  surprising  dexterity. 
They  appeared  again  upon  the  surface,  in  an  incre- 
dibly short  space  of  time,  with  their  dark  counte- 
nances illumined  by  a  grin,  illustrative  of  much  de- 
light, holding  high  the  hand,  and  displaying  the 
rescued  coin.  Then  they  would  deposit  it  quickly 
in  their  mouths,  and  be  in  readiness  for  another 
dive.  The  most  successful  one  was  easily  detected 
by  his  protuberant  cheeks.  To  deceive,  one  of  the 
passengers  threw  over  a  button.  Upon  discovering 
the  deception  practised,  no  enticement  could  after- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


93 


wards  induce  them  to  dive  after  what  fell  from  his 
hand.  Their  discriminating  powers  must  be  very 
acute  to  recollect  the  countenance,  of  that  gentle- 
man among  so  many  strange  faces.  We  remained 
nearly  one  day  at  AcapulcO;  which  most  of  the  pas- 
sengers improved  by  wandering  through  the  town 
and  its  suburbs. 

Not  having  recovered  my  health  sufficiently  to 
endure  a  tiresome  tramp^,  I  only  saw  that  part  of 
the  town  in  immediate  proximity  to  the  harbor.  I 
was  very  favorably  impressed^  however.  It  was 
the  cleanest^  neatest^  most  cheerful-looking  Spanish 
town  I  had  ever  beheld.  Shops  of  every  descrip- 
tion met  the  eye^  almost  bewildering  the  senses 
with  the  multifarious  display.  The  cafes  at  every 
corner  sent  out  a  cheering  welcome  to  the  olfactory 
organ ;  the  bazaar  was  thronged  with  people  dis- 
playing fruit  in  all  its  stages^  sufficient^  if  partaken 
of;,  to  prostrate  the  whole  ship's  company;  and  the 
incomprehensible  jargon  of  the  venders  reminding 
one  of  (as  some  express  it)  bedlam  let  loose." 
Sometimes  one  feels  half  inclined  to  purchase^  if  for 
nought  else  than  to  win  one  of  those  irresistible 
smiles  from  the  senorita  in  attendance. 

Upon  entering  the  harbor^,  the  first  thing  that 
met  my  eye  was  the  ship  Symmetry,  which  came 


94 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


to  our  deliverance  off  Cape  Horn.  She  liad^  after 
a  tedious  voyage^  reached  her  destination.  Capt. 
Thompson  recognized  ns  from  the  deck  of  the  Sym- 
metry^ and  came  on  board  to  see  me.  He  informed 
me  his  crew  were  all  in  the  lock-up^  and  there  he 
intended  to  keep  tliem^  to  ensure  better  behavior 
in  future.  He  looked  really  care-worn^  from  con- 
tinued and  incessant  trials.  I  pitied  him  more  than 
I  liked  him.  We  wondered  at  his  coming  to  see 
us.    I  never  saw  him  more. 

Soon  we  were  again  steaming  our  way  along  the 
coast  to  San  Francisco.  One  nighty  we  were  all 
startled  from  our  slumbers  by  the  quick  ring  of  the 
fire-bell^  and  the  wild  shout  of  Fire  !  fire  ! "  ring- 
ing loud  and  clear  from  the  deck.  Oh^  what  a 
rushing  and  screaming  with  the  ladies !  what  terri- 
fied looks,  as  they  crowded  and  pushed  one  another 
up  the  stairS;  in  mad  haste  to  gain  the  deck !  It 
was  a  scene  of  terrible  confusion ;  in  the  midst  of 
which  I  stopped  to  put  on  shoes  and  stockings.  I 
say  not  this  to  boast  of  more  self-possession  or  calm- 
ness in  moments  of  peril  than  naturally  belongs  to 
the  sex ;  but,  having  been  so  often  subjected  to  the 
fiery  ordeal  during  that  eventful  year,  I  had  learned 
to  expect  it  as  a  matter  of  course,  and  was  not  so 
startled  or  unprepared  by  the  recurrence  of  such 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


95 


an  event  as  those  more  favored,  who  had  recently 
left  pleasant  homes,  and  had  encountered  nought 
but  sunshine.  It  appeared  one  of  the  waiters  had 
gone  to  the  engineer's  room  (which  was  upon  deck) 
to  draw  alcohol  from  a  cask.  It  ignited  by  a  spark 
from  the  lamp ;  the  cask  exploded,  and  set  fire  to 
the  room.  The  boy  rushed  out  in  terror,  rang  the 
bell,  and  cried  Fire ! "  at  the  top  of  his  voice.  One 
of  the  engineers,  who  was  in  bed  at  the  time,  was 
severely  burned.  The  greatest  confusion  prevailed 
for  awhile,  after  the  passengers  gained  the  deck  en 
masse.  Some  sprang  to  the  boats,  attempting  to 
cut  away  the  lashings,  and  w^ere  only  deterred  from 
committing  this  dastardly  act  through  fear  of 
having  a  bullet  put  through  their  heads.  Several 
amusing  and  ludicrous  incidents  transpired  also. 
One  man  took  his  umbrella  in  one  hand,  and  carpet- 
bag in  the  other,  and  was  caught  in  the  act  of 
jumping  overboard.  A  Jew,  who  had  on  board 
goods  to  the  amount  of  several  thousand  dollars, 
was  offering  them  to  any  one  for  a  bid  of  three 
hundred  dollars,  and  cash  down.  The  old  adage,  the 
ruling  passion  strong  in  death,"  was  here  verified. 

It  was  pronounced  at  once  by  all  the  ladies,  that 
I  must  be  the  Jonah;"  and  really  I  began  to 
think  there  might  be  some  truth  in  the  assertion. 


96 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

The  last  of  April,  1851,  after  an  eventful  and 
tedious  voyage,  we  approached  the  entrance  to  the 
harbor  of  San  Francisco,  appropriately  denominated 
the  Golden  Gate."  The  entrance  is  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  in  breadth.  The  waters  of  the  bay  ap- 
pear to  have  opened  for  themselves  a  passage 
through  the  elevated  ridge  of  hills  next  to  the 
shore  of  the  Pacific,  which  rise  abruptly  on  either 
side  of  the  opening.  There  is  always  depth  of 
water  sufficient  to  admit  ships  of  the  largest  size ; 
and  so  completely  land-locked  and  protected  from 
the  winds  is  the  harbor,  that  vessels  can  ride  at 
anchor  in  perfect  safety,  in  all  kinds  of  weather. 
The  harbor  is  sufficient  to  accommodate  all  the 
navies  in  the  world.  As  the  emigrant  approaches 
California  from  the  ocean,  Monte  Diabolo  is  the  first 
land  by  which  the  eye  is  greeted.  It  is  situated  in 
Contra  Costa  county,  sixty  or  seventy  miles  distant 
from  Sacramento,  in  a  south-westerly  direction. 
According  to  the  best  information  obtained,  the  al- 
titude of  this  mountain  is  about  five  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  sta.nds  at  the  north- 
western termination  of  the  inner  coast  range,  dis- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


97 


jointed  and  isolated^  and,  like  most  of  its  bleak  and 
sterile  companions^  is  rent  by  deep  fissures  and 
yawning  chasms^  which  give  it  the  appearance  ra- 
ther of  a  cluster  of  small  mountains  than  one  pon- 
derous pile.  But  little  is  yet  known  of  the  geolo- 
gical history  of  Monte  Diabolo^  or  the  Mountain  of 
the  Devil."  San  Francisco  is  situated  on  the  south 
side  of  the  entrance^  fronting  on  the  bay^  about  six 
miles  from  the  ocean.  The  bay,  from  the  city  of 
San  Francisco  due  east,  is  about  twelve  miles  in 
breadth.  A  range  of  high  hills  bounds  the  view^  on 
the  opposite  side.  Between  them  and  the  shore  is 
a  broad  and  fertile  plain,  called  the  Contra  Costa. 
Quite  a  little  village  had  sprung  up  there,  on  the 
shore  of  the  bay,  when  I  last  saw  the  place,  called 
Oakland. 

Yerba  Buena  (sweet  herb)  is  an  island  in  the 
bay,  and  almost  directly  fronting  the  city  of  San 
Francisco,  a  mile  or  so  distant.  There  are  several 
small  islands  in  the  bay.  Oj)posite  San  Francisco, 
on  the  north  side  of  the  bay,  is  a  place  called  Sau- 
solito,  where,  at  an  early  period  in  the  history  of 
San  Francisco,  vessels  repaired,  preparatory  to  sail- 
ing, to  take  in  their  water.  Now,  water-boats  are 
plying  between  Sausolito  and  the  city,  affording 
ample  remvmeration  for  the  toil.    On  the  right- 

9 


98 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


hSLXid  side  of  the  bay^  as,;57'Ou  are  approaching  the 
city^  is  situated  the  Presidio  of  Saji  Francisco.  It 
consists  of  several  blocks  of  adobe  buildings^  covered 
with  tiles.  The  walls  of  most  of  the  buildings  are 
crumbling  for  the  want  of  care  in  protecting  them 
from  annual  rains. 

At  a  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  en- 
trance to  the  bay^  are  the  remains  of  an  old  fort. 
It  is  fast  going  to  decay,  daily  threatening  a  com- 
plete ruin.  The  guns  are  dismounted,  and  some 
of  them  are  half  decomposed  from  exposure  to  the 
weather.  When  I  passed  through  the  Golden  Gate 
for  the  last  time,  there  was  in  process  of  erection  a 
fortification  on  one  of  the  bluffs  commanding  the 
entrance.  Outside,  lay  the  wreck  of  the  clipper- 
ship  Golden  Fleece ;  the  ceaseless  motion  of  the 
waves  chanting  a  requiem  over  her  remains. 

At  San  Francisco,  during  the  summer  and  autum- 
nal months,  the  wind  blows  directly  from  the  ocean, 
rendering  the  temperature  cool  enough  in  the  after- 
noon for  woollen  clothing,  in  midsummer.  The 
mornings  are  usually  calm  and  pleasantly  warm. 
About  sunset,  the  wind  dies  away,  and  the  nights 
are  comparatively  calm.  In  winter  months,  the 
wind  blows  in  soft,  balmy  breezes  from  the  south- 
east ;  the  thermometer  rarely  sinking  below  50  deg. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


99 


When  the  winds  blow  from  the  ocean^  it  never 
rains.  When  they  blow  from  the  land  it  is  lowery, 
and  resembles  that  of  the  month  of  May^  in  the 
same  latitude  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  coolness 
of  the  climate^  and  briskness  of  the  air^  are  confined 
to  particular  localities  on  the  coast ;  and  this  de- 
scription is  not  applicable  to  the  interior  of  the 
country^  or  even  to  other  places  on  the  coast. 

Such  a  hurry,  such  a  bustle,  so  much  excite- 
ment !  We  are  nearing  the  wharf  at  San  Francisco. 
What  crowds  of  men  assembled  upon  the  pier, 
ready  to  rush  on  board  as  soon  as  the  steamer  is 
made  fast !  I  almost  envied  those  who  were  going 
to  meet  loved  friends.  We  knew  none,  to  give  us 
a  cheerful  greeting,  in  that  city  of  strangers. 

Mrs.  B  ,  a  lady  who  was  accompanied  by  her 

husband,  and  myself  seated  ourselves  upon  deck, 
to  witness  the  meetings.  So  many  joyful  tears 
were  shed,  such  heartful  embraces !  Fathers  ca- 
ressing little  ones  they  had  never  before  seen ; 
they  in  turn  frightened  half  out  of  their  wits  at 
finding  themselves  in  the  arms  of  such  frightful 
objects.  Sometimes  we  could  scarcely  repress  the 
tears  at  witnessing  some  affecting  scene ;  at  others, 
constrained  to  laugh  outright  at  some  really  ludi- 
crous sight.    One  delighted  husband  said,  "  Why 


100 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


don't  you  kiss  me^  Bessy  ?  "  She  stood  gazing  at 
this  hirsute  representation  of  her  better  half  in 
utter  astonishment ;  then  timidly  ejaculated,  "  I 

can't  find  any  place."    "  Oh  !  "  said  Mrs.  B  , 

sportively,  "  they  will  all  get  a  kiss  but  you  and 
me."  Almost  instantly  a  gentleman  sprang  to  her 
side,  cordially  greeting  her,  and  even  bestowing  a 
kiss.  I  was  almost  stupefied  at  such  audacity,  for 
at  first  she  seemed  not  to  recognize  him.  Sooji 
the  air  of  astonishment,  and  even  of  alarm,  re- 
signed its  place  upon  her  countenance  to  the  glad 
smile  of  recognition.  He  was  an  old  friend,  whom 
she  had  not  seen  for  years.  He  thought  he  recol- 
lected her  countenance ;  then  the  sound  of  her 
voice  confirmed  his  j)reconceptions.  I  felt  greatly 
relieved  when  I  found  it  was  not  the  custom  in 
California  for  the  gentlemen  to  kiss  all  the  ladies 
they  fancied,  whether  acquainted  or  not. 

My  husband  and  myself,  by  invitation  of  the 
captain,  concluded  to  remain  on  board  that  night. 
He  insisted  upon  our  occupying  his  room  in  his 
absence,  as  business  called  him  ashore.  Every- 
thing," said  he,  is  at  your  disposal,  except  my 
tooth-brush." 

Next  morning,  upon  going  ashore,  iny  husband 
met  a  cousin  of  ours,  who  was  residing  in  Happy 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


101 


Valley.  He  came  immediately  on  board^  and  in- 
sisted upon  our  going  at  once  to  his  house.  This 

cordial  invitation  we  at  once  accepted.   Mr.  B  

had  emigrated  to  California  in  1849^  and  there 
married. 

How  unique  to  me  seemed  everything  in  San 
Francisco^  when  first  I  paced  its  sandy  streets 
leading  to  Happy  Valley !  They  were  building  up 
the  water-lots  rapidly.  The  old  ship  Niantic^  of 
Boston^  seemed  quite  up  town.  Upon  the  deck 
of  this  condemned  ship  was  reared  quite  an  impos- 
ing edifice^  bearing  the  signature  of  the  Niantic 
Hotel.  Streets  were  extended  far  beyond  it^  bay- 
ward.  The  interstices  between  some  of  these 
streets  were  not  yet  filled.  I  grow  dizzy  even 
now^  thinking  about  it.  In  our  haste  to  reach 
Happy  Valley,  and  avoid,  as  far  as  lay  in  our 
power,  those  interminable  sand-hills,  it  was  pro- 
posed to  cross  one  of  those  interstices  on  a  hewn 
timber,  which,  at  least,  must  have  been  nearly  one 
hundred  feet,  and  at  a  height  of  twelve  feet,  I 
should  think,  from  the  green  slimy  mud  of  the 
dock.  I  succeeded  pretty  well,  until  about  half- 
way over,  when,  finding  myself  suddenly  becoming 
very  dizzy,  I  was  obliged  to  stop,  get  down  on  my 
knees,  and  hold  on  to  the  timber.  I  was  afraid  to 
9* 


102 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


proceed;  lest  I  should  fall  into  the  mud  and  Avater 
beloW;  and;  for  the  same  reason^  unable  to  retrace 
my  steps.  After  much  crying  on  my  part;  and 
coaxing  and  scolding  on  the  part  of  the  gentleman, 
I  succeeded  in  reaching  the  terminus  of  the  tim- 
ber. That  was  my  introduction  into  the  town  of 
San  Francisco  in  1851. 

Upon  leaving;  three  years  afterwards,  I  traversed 
that  same  locality.  It  had  become  the  richest  busi- 
ness part  of  the  city.  There  were  nicely  paved 
walks;  bounded  on  either  side  by  massive  granite 
and  brick  structures;  an  ornament  to  the  city  — 
the  pride  and  the  glory  of  the  energetic  pioneers, 
representatives  from  every  state  in  the  Union. 

Very  soon  after  our  arrival  occurred  the  largest 
conflagration  ever  recorded  in  the  annals  of  San 
Francisco.  The  memorable  fire  of  the  3d  of  May, 
1851;  will  ever  be  remembered  by  all  residents  of 
the  place  at  that  time  with  feelings  of  pain  and 
commiseration.  Oh !  it  was  a  night  of  intense 
suffering  to  hundreds  of  human  beings.  We  were 
startled  from  our  slumbers  between  the  hours  of 
eleven  and  twelve,  by  the  to  me  familiar  cry  of 
Fire ! "  My  first  thought;  upon  awakening,  was,  I 
am  on  terra  firma,  I  can  run."  Fires,  at  that  time 
of  paper-and-cloth-architectural  memory,  raged  with 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


103 


astonishing  rapidity.  Whole  streets  were  swept 
away  in  less  time  than  it  would  occupy  to  relate 
the  events  arising  from  the  sad  catastrophe.  We 
were  in  Happy  Valley^  situated  at  that  time  at  the 
extreme  end  of  the  town^  towards  Eincon  Point. 
The  fire  originated  as  far  in  an  opposite  direction. 
Therefore  people  were  all  rushing  towards  Happy 
Valley,  as  a  place  offering  protection. 

The  streets  were  full  of  drays,  rushing  along 
with  breakneck  speed,  to  deposit  goods  and  all 
kinds  of  merchandise  in  any  possible  place  of 
safety.  What  rich  bales  of  silk,  and  fine  clothing, 
were  tumbled  topsy-turvy  into  hastily  made  exca- 
vations in  the  innumerable  sand-hills  around  the 
valley.  Some  were  depositing  valuables  in  the 
few  (what  were  then  supposed  to  be)  fire-proof 
buildings,  which  had  been  erected  at  considerable 
expense.  Often  buildings  were  on  fire  before  the 
inmates,  in  their  consternation,  could  find  an  article 
of  clothing ;  and  they  would  rush  into  the  crowded 
street  in  their  night-clothes,  nearly  distracted  with 
the  deafening  shouts  of  the  excited  multitude. 
The  wind  seemed  to  blow  fiercely.  The  insatiable 
flames  came  roaring  and  rushing  onward,  darting 
its  thousand-forked  tongues  of  fire  far  up  into  the 
midnight  sky.    The  fire  companies,  what  few  there 


104 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


were;  were  prompt  and  energetic  in  action ;  but 
even  they  were  driven  from  their  posts  of  duty,  and 
their  hfe-sacrificing  efforts  rendered  abortive. 

In  one  instance,  a  company,  with  their  engine, 
were  driven  to  the  verge  of  a  wharf  by  the  fiery 

pursuer.    Mrs.  B          and  myself  were  standing 

upon  the  door-step,  witnessing  with  trembling  hearts 
its  nearer  approach  and  nearer.  It  was  heart-rend- 
ing to  witness  the  distress  of  delicate  women,  driven 
from  their  homes  at  midnight,  with  no  protection 
from  the  chilly  winds  but  their  night-clothes,  la- 
menting, not  their  own  fate,  but  the  uncertain  fate 
of  those  near  and  dear  to  them,  who  were  combat- 
ting with  the  fiery  elements  for  the  preservation  of 
life  and  property.  Oh,  it  was  a  sad  spectacle !  Yet, 
even  amid  it  all,  might  be  seen  some  heartless  per- 
son divesting  himself  of  his  own  soiled  apparel,  to 
be  replaced  with  new,  purloined  from  some  pile  of 
ready-made  clothing.  How.  much  of  value,  that 
night,  the  dishonest  ones  appropriated  to  their  own 
use ! 

Still  nearer  came  the  flames,  until  only  one  block 
of  buildings  separated  them  from  the  Oriental  Ho- 
tel. That  once  on  fire,  and  no  human  power  could 
save  Happy  Valley.  All  the  engines  were  brought 
to  play  upon  this  block,  which  was  owned  by  Mac- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


105 


ondry,  and  by  him  occupied  as  a  warehouse.  The 
bravely-fought  srtruggle  was  viewed  with  varying 
emotions  of  hope  and  fear.  At  length  the  never- 
ceasing  powers  of  man  conquered.  They  succeeded 
in  arresting  the  progress  of  the  fire  king,  and  the 
little  hamlet  of  Happy  Valley  was  preserved.  At 
early  dawn^  we  visited  the  scene  of  the  fire.  It 
would  require  a  more  graphic  description  than 
could  ever  emanate  from  pen  of  mine  to  do  justice 
to  the  scene  of  destruction  there  presented.  Life- 
less bodies,  literally  burned  to  a  cinder,  wholly  un- 
recognizable by  nearest  relatives,  lay  near  to  the 
walls  of  the  half-demolished  brick  structure.  They 
had  fled  to  this  building  as  a  place  of  safety,  think- 
ing it  to  b^,  what  all  considered  it,  fire-proof  The 
flames  raged  around  it  with  unresisting  fury :  the 
heat  became  very  intense.'  The  occupants  vainly 
endeavored  to  effect  an  egress.  One  poor  fellow 
rushed  to  remove  the  heated  bolts,  and  actually 
burned  all  the  flesh  from  his  hands  before  effecting 
his  object.  Then  he  was  seen  to  rush  frantically 
forth  into  the  flames,  stagger,  turn,  and  run  a  little 
way  in  an  opposite  direction  —  then  fall.  He  was 
dragged  from  the  flames  by  some  daring,  humane 
hand,  and  his  life  preserved;  although  he  was 
maimed  and  crippled,  and  rendered  blind^  for  life. 


106 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


I  saw  the  poor  being  afterwards^  and  heard  him  re- 
late the  painful  story.  The  scenes  I  witnessed  that 
day  might  wring  tears  from  a  heart  of  stone.  Men 
who^  a  few  short  hours  before^  were  worth  thou- 
sands and  hundreds  of  thousands^  now  sat  weeping 
over  the  ashes  of  their  once  splendid  fortunes. 
Some  who  were  not  possessed  of  sufficient  self-com- 
mand and  fortitude  to  meet  and  brave  life's  severest 
trialS;  had  sought  consolation  for  every  woe  in  the 
intoxicating  cup ;  others  sat^  the  images  of  mute 
despair^  their  grief  too  profound  to  permit  a  tear  or 
sigh  to  escape  as  a  mitigation  of  their  deep-seated 
sorrow ;  some  had  already  commenced  fencing  in 
their  lots^  although  the  smouldering  ashes  emitted 
an  almost  suffocating  heat.  These  hasty  proceed- 
ings were  at  that  time  expedient^  to  prevent  their 
lots  from  being  jumped ;  for  these  were  the  days 
of  squatter  memory,  when  possession  was  nine- 
tenths  of  the  law.  We  were  in  pursuit  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  B  .  With  her  I  had  formed  a  close  inti- 
macy on  board  the  steamer.  Her  husband,  pre- 
vious to  the  fire,  was  established  in  a  lucrative 
business,  but  who  had  now  shared  the  fate  of  all. 

Where  was  Mrs.  B  and  her  little  daughter 

Nelly  ?  They  were  obliged  to  run  in  their  night- 
clothes.    Mr.  B  deposited  two  or  three  trunks 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


107 


of  their  most  valuable  clothing  in  one  of  those  fire- 
proof buildingS;  and^  of  course^  they  were  burnt, 
leaving  them  nothing  which  they  could  call  their 

own  out  of  their  once  abundant  supply.   Mrs.  B  

that  night  sought  and  found  protection  at  an  hos- 
pital kept  by  a  friend  of  hers,  a  doctor  from  New 
York.  The  building  was  situated  upon  the  summit 
of  one  of  the  many  hills  which  surround  the  city, 
and  about  a  mile  from  where  she  had  lived.  This 
distance  she  ran,  without  even  shoes  or  stockings, 
almost  dragging  her  little  girl  along,  who  was  so 
terrified  as  to  be  almost  incapable  of  supporting 
herself  After  learning  her  whereabouts,  I  hastened 
to  see  her,  and  found  her,  where  she  was  obliged  to 
remain  for  the  time  being,  in  bed.  I  supplied  her 
with  a  few  articles  of  clothing  from  my  limited 
wardrobe ;  but  she  being  a  much  taller  person  than 
myself,  we  were  really  at  a  loss  how  to  make  her 
appear  respectable,  unless  she  would  consent  to 
make  her  debut  in  Bloomer  costume.  Necessity 
is  indeed  the  mother  of  invention ; "  and,  after  some 
crying,  and  a  good  deal  more  laughing,  we  had  her 
equipped  for  a  promenade.  Then  Nelly  was  re- 
leased from  "durance  vile;"  but  it  would  have 
puzzled  wiser  heads  than  ours  to  have  designated 
her  costume.    Poor  child !  how  she  lamented  the 


108 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


fate  of  all  the  nice  things  which  she  had  brought 
from  home !  This  was  her  first  great  grief.  The 
proposition  was  made  to  ns  from  Mr.  and  Mrs. 

B  ^  to  go  to  housekeeping  in  company  with 

them^  and  take  boarders.  No  time  was  to  be  lost : 
after  a  fire  in  California  was  the  time  for  immediate 
action.  That  day  we  found  an  unoccupied  house, 
a  little  over  the  ridge  of  the  hills. 

The  owner  of  this  domicile  had  gone  to  the 
States ;  the  agent  for  which  was  also  absent  in  the 
mines.  Therefore,  our  husbands  had  the  audacity 
to  take  quiet  possession ;  and,  before  night,  we  were 
duly  installed  in  our  new  house.  Perhaps  some  of 
my  readers  may  have  the  curiosity  to  know  how 
we  so  readily  furnished  our  intended  boarding- 
house,  while  nearly  the  entire  city  was  in  ruins. 
Well,  in  the  house  we  found  two  bedsteads,  with  a 
miserable  straw  bed  upon  each ;  quite  a  good  cook- 
ing-stove, with  a  few  appurtenances  attached;  a 
pine  table,  constructed  of  unplaned  boards;  and 
old  boxes,  in  lieu  of  chairs.  Dishes,  knives  and 
forks,  and  spoons,  we  had  picked  up  from  the  hete- 
rogeneous mass  of  half-consumed  rubbish  upon  the 

former  site  of  Mr.  B  's  store.    But,  at  such  a 

time  as  that,  if  one  could  get  anything  to  eat,  he 
never  stopped  to  see  if  his  fork  was  blessed  with 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


109 


one  prong  or  three ;  and^  if  the  knife  was  minus  a 
handle^  it  was  just  as  well,  provided  the  blade  was 
good.  And  then^  too^  a  person  was  not  particular 
about  enjoying  the  luxury  of  both  cup  and  saucer^ 
if  at  any  time  there  were  more  people  than  dishes. 
The  next  day^  our  husbands  secured  us  as  many 
boarders  as  we  could  accommodate  with  meals :  a 
lodging  they  sought  elsewhere. 

We  were  to  receive  twelve  dollars  per  week  for 
board.  Don't  laugh  :  that  was  cheap  board^  v^^hen 
you  take  into  consideration  the  exorbitant  price  of 
provisions.  For  butter  we  paid  one  dollar  and  a 
half  per  pound ;  beef  steak^  twenty-five  cents  per 
pound ;  and  all  else  in  proportion.  Vegetables 
were  sold  by  the  pound,  and  dearly  sold,  too.  I 
never  prepared  a  meal,  but  what  I  thought  of  the 
old  woman  who  had  but  one  kettle  in  which  to 
cook  everything.  We  made  coffee  in  the  tea-kettle 
mornings ;  and,  at  night,  made  tea  in  the  same. 

There  was  a  well  of  water  at  some  distance  from 
the  house,  near  the  foot  of  the  hill ;  and,  oh,  what 
a  deep  one  it  was !  The  bucket,  which  would  con- 
tain two  pailfuls,  had  to  be  drawn  to  the  top  by  a 

windlass.    The  united  exertions  of  Mrs.  B  and 

myself  were  scarcely  sufficient  to  bring  it  to  the 
top.  Oh,  how  we  have  laughed,  and  tugged,  and 
10 


110 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


laughed^  until  we  could  tug  no  longer^  over  that 
old  well!  Our  husbands  were  busily  engaged  at 
the  store-lot  clearing  and  fencing  it,  and  erecting  a 
temporary  building,  to  be  in  readiness  to  receive  a 
fresh  supply  of  goods  which  was  daily  expected  to 

arrive,  and  which,  fortunately  for  Mr.  B  ,  had 

had  a  longer  passage  than  usual.  Our  boarding- 
house  in  San  Francisco  will  never  be  forgotten; 
and,  when  reverted  to,  will  invariably  call  up  a 
smile,  even  if  we  are  entertaining  those  provoking 
imps,  the  blues.  Many  times  since,  I  have  met 
some  of  those  boarders  at  the  tables  of  fashionable 
hotels ;  in  which  case,  I  was  sure  to  receive  some 
compliment  in  reference  to  the  good  dinners  they 
had  eaten  from  the  old  pine  table,  minus  the  table- 
cloth. The  proceeds  derived  from  keeping  this 
boarding-house  was  decidedly  insufficient  remunera- 
tion for  the  amount  of  physical  labor  expended. 
We  concluded,  therefore,  to  seek  our  fortunes  in 
some  inland  town,  and  nearer  the  mines,  and  per- 
haps at  the  mines. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


Ill 


CHAPTER  XII. 

About  seven  weeks  from  the  time  of  our  arrival 
in  San  Francisco,  we  found  ourselves  on  board  one 
of  the  river  steamers  bound  to  Marysville.   I  j)arted 

with  regret  from  Mrs.  B  .    We  had  lived,  and 

laughed,  and  suffered  together  so  long,  it  was  hard 
to  separate.  We  met  once  afterwards,  for  she  tra- 
velled many  weary  miles  to  visit  me.  Little  Nelly, 
too  —  how  I  loved  that  child !  I  can  see  her  now, 
in  imagination,  with  her  sparkling  eyes  and  rosy 
cheeks,  tugging  along  a  handful  of  burnt  wood  for 
mother  to  cook  with."    Those  were  hard  days  for 

Nelly  and  Mrs.  B  .    Since  then,  Mr.  B  has 

amassed  a  splendid  fortune.  I  wonder  if  Nelly  will 
ever  forget  those  days  in  which  she  was  sent  out 
gleaning  sticks  of  wood  and  pieces  of  burnt  boards, 
with  which  to  make  the  kettle  boil. 

The  upper  division  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco 
is  called  the  Suisun.  Situated  upon  the  strait  con- 
necting the  two  divisions,  is  the  town  of  Benicia,  on 
the  north,  and  the  pleasant  little  hamlet  of  Mar- 
tinez, on  the  south  side.  How  sunny  and  pleasant 
looked  the  valleys  bordering  on  the  bay !  the  luxu- 
riant growth  of  wild  oats  therein  affording  excellent 


112 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


pasturage  for  the  numerous  herds  of  wild  cattle 
roaming  over  the  country.  Soon  we  found  our- 
selves entering  the  noble  Sacramento.  The  river^ 
at  intervals^  is  fringed  with  timber^  chiefly  oak, 
sycamore^  and  willows.  Grape-vines,  and  a  variety 
of  shrubbery,  ornament  its  banks.  The  quiet, 
peaceful  stillness  which  pervades  all  nature,  as  you 
are  ascending  this  stream,  has  an  ineffable  charm, 
a  sort  of  fascination,  to  the  beholder.  The  boat 
stopped  a  short  time  at  Sacramento  city.  How 
very  low  and  flat  the  town  appeared,  in  point  of 
locality,  compared  with  San  Francisco,  —  not  a 
single  hill  to  relieve  the  eye !  It  presented  one 
feature  peculiar  to  all  California  towns  at  that  day 
—  a  great  deal  of  canvas  pre-eminently  conspicuous, 
in  the  shape  of  buildings,  with  signs  attached,  com- 
peting, in  point  of  size,  with  the  buildings  which 
they  graced. 

In  some  places  the  river  is  nearly  half  a  mile  in 
width.  It  makes  some  very  graceful  bends.  The 
land  bordering  on  this  magnificent  stream  is  very 
low,  and  subject  to  inundations,  which  is  a  serious 
impediment  to  the  advancement  of  agriculture,  to 
which  the  soil  is  admirably  adapted.  Three  years 
afterwards,  when  sailing  down  this  majestic  stream, 
I  witnessed  with  delight  many  spots  of  this  river- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


113 


side  wilderness^  made  to  blossom  as  the  rose  "  by 
the  indomitable  energy  and  unconquerable  enter- 
prise, in  opposition  to  every  discouragement,  of  the 
successful  pioneers.  I  often  wished,  as  some  spot 
lovelier  than  another  met  the  eye,  that  it  had  been 
my  lot  to  have  found  a  home  in  just  such  a  sunny 
spot,  far  away  from  the  noisy  strife  of  the  busy, 
bustling  world.  But  I  must  not  tarry  too  long  on 
thy  bosom,  noble  Sacramento,  but  leave  thy  allure- 
ments and  beauties  to  be  chronicled  by  some  abler 
pen  than  mine,  and  hasten  up  stream  to  the  point 
where  Feather  River,  one  of  the  largest  tributaries 
of  the  Sacramento,  unites  her  limpid  waters  with 
those  of  her  sister  river. 

With  the  name  of  Feather  River  the  early  Anglo- 
Californian  associates  the  commingled  sentiments 
of  many  a  pleasure  and  pain.  The  rich  tributes  of 
gold  which  rewarded  his  toil  could  not  compensate 
for  the  saddened  yearnings  of  the  heart.  All  that 
he  loved  on  earth  were  far  away  from  him ;  his 
condition  was  hazardous  in  the  extreme  5  no  friend, 
perhaps,  was  near  with  a  solace ;  and,  but  for  the 
inspiriting  unction  of  a  constantly  indulged  hope, 
even  the  future  would  have  been  desolate  and 
dreary. 

The  steamer  turns  her  prow  to  the  right,  and  is 
10* 


114 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


gracefully  cutting  her  way  through  the  waters  of 
Feather  River.  I  kept  constantly  upon  deck  to 
inhale  the  balmy  air^  and  to  look  out  upon  the 
lively  and  ever-changing  landscape.  Sometimes 
the  trees  would  crowd  the  bank  to  the  very  brink ; 
some  gracefully  bending  to  kiss  the  water ;  some 
rearing  their  stately  heads  high  above^  but  stretch- 
ing their  wide  arms  over  its  margin  5  all  faithfully 
mirrored  far  down  in  its  glassy  depth^  though  some- 
times the  reflections  were  partially  obliterated^  and 
sometimes^  for  a  moment^  the  zvkok  was  shivered 
into  trembling  fragments  by  the  transient  breeze 
that  swept  the  surface  too  roughly^  and  the  widely 
extended  ripple  from  the  wake  of  the  steamer. 

There  were  on  board  several  distinguished  per- 
sonsj  who  proposed  a  visit  to  Capt.  Sutter's  ranch. 
This  delightful  residence  is  situated  on  the  left 
bank  of  Feather  River^  as  you  are  proceeding  np 
stream.  Visitors  of  distinction  are  landed  at  the 
foot  of  his  garden.  The  steamer  runs  in  close  prox- 
imity to  the  bank  fronting  his  dwelling.  They 
usually  give  him  a  salute  after  landing  visitors. 
Sometimes  an  answering  salute  is  given  from  a 
mounted  cannon  standing  in  the  centre  of  his  gar- 
den. Near  to  it  is  erected  a  tall  flag-staff.  The 
dwelling-house  is  constructed  of  adobe  brick;  repre- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC, 


115 


senting  the  Dutch  style  of  architecture.  It  is 
completely  embowered  with  shrubbery^,  and  creep- 
ing, flowering  vines.  A  more  definite  description 
of  the  grounds  adjoining  will  be  given  hereafter, 
when  I  shall  have  visited  the  place,  and  from  per- 
sonal observation  endeavor  to  interest  the  reader 
by  delineating  the  beauties  surrounding  this  lovely 
retreat  of  the  noble-hearted  old  general.  Captain 
Sutter,  or,  rather,  G.eneral  Sutter,  as  he  is  now 
titled,  is  a  native  of  Switzerland,  and  was  at  one 
time  an  officer  in  the  French  army. 

He  emigrated  to  the  United  States,  and  was 
naturalized.  From  thence,  after  a  series  of  roman- 
tic incidents,  he  located  himself  in  California,  in 
the  midst  of  numerous  and  hostile  tribes  of  Indians. 
With  a  small  party  of  men,  which  he  originally 
brought  with  him,  he  succeeded  in  defending  him- 
self until  he  erected  his  fort.  Several  times,  when 
besieged  by  hostile  foes,  he  has  subsisted  upon 
grass  alone  for  many  days. 

The  land  bordering  upon  Feather  River  is  more 
elevated  than  that  bordering  upon  the  Sacramento. 
Soon,  far  ahead,  is  discernible  the  dividing  line  in 
the  water,  w^here  the  muddy  w^aters  of  the  Yuba 
River  mingle  with  the  deep,  blue,  translucent  cur- 
rent of  Feather  River. 


116 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


The  banks  of  the  Yuba^  at  its  junction  with 
Feather  River^  are  romantic  in  the  extreme.  There 
is  a  thick  growth  of  trees  bestudding  the  bankS;  and 
dipping  gracefully  into  the  stream ;  the  branches 
of  the  taller  uniting  overhead^  and  forming  a  leafy 
canopy^  almost  entirely  excluding  the  rays  of  the 
sun  from  the  smoothly  gliding  current.  The  beau- 
tiful weeping-willows  fringing  the  margin^  the 
creeping  vines  twining  their  tendrils  around  the 
trunks  of  the  treeS;  and  the  variety  of  shrubbery, 
give  it  a  decidedly  tenebrious  appearance^  and  keep 
the  eye  of  the  traveller^  who  gazes  from  the  deck 
of  some  one  of  the  numerous  steamers  plying  the 
stream,  constantly  occupied  in  tracing  the  variety 
of  features  which  this  and  similar  views  are  con- 
stantly presenting. 

A  short  distance  above  the  cove-shaped  entrance 
to  the  Yuba  Eiver,  and  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation,  is  situated  the  town  of  Marysville.  At 
the  time  I  first  saw  it,  the  sun  was  just  gilding 
the  tops  of  the  little  canvas  stores  surrounding  the 
plaza.  This  little  square  seemed  literally  swarming 
with  people,  who  had  gathered  around  the  landing. 
Some  had  resorted  thither  from  motives  of  idle 
curiosity,  to  gaze  at  the  people  as  they  stepped 
ashore,  hoping,  perhaps,  to  recognize  the  form  and 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


117 


features  of  some  friend  from  their  far-off  homes. 
Others  Avere  drawn  to  the  spot  in  the  hope  of 
acquiring  accessions  to  their  already  well-filled 
hotels.  The  draymen^  too,  were  on  the  spot,  ready 
to  take  your  baggage  anywhere  and  everywhere. 
Their  importunities  were  as  unceasing  as  those  of 
our  hackmen  at  city  depots  and  steamboat  wharfs. 
Their  style  of  conveyance  was  rather  more  primi- 
tive than  comfortable.  However,  I  was  seated 
upon  my  trunk  on  a  dray,  ready  to  be  drawn  to 
any  one  of  the  first-class  houses,  which  were  enu- 
merated as  follows :  the  United  States,  Oriental, 
Tremont,  St.  Charles,  etc.  My  husband  decided 
that  we  should  go  the  United  States,  and  thither 
we  were  accordingly  taken. 

I  was  perfectly  delighted  with  the  appearance 
of  this  little  inland  city.  Every  little  collection 
of  canvas  stores  and  dwellings  in  California  were 
denominated  cities.  Marysville,  at  that  time,  boast- 
ed of  several  large  frame  buildings,  among  which 
were  the  above-mentioned  hotels.  It  was  ranked 
the  third  city  in  regard  to  size  and  improvements 
in  Upper  California. 

It  is  useless  to  attempt  to  convey  to  the  minds 
of  any,  except  those  who  were  pioneers  to  Califor- 
nia, the  unique  appearance  of  those  Httle  bustling, 


118 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


business  localities^  in  convenient  proximity  to  min- 
ing districts.  Such  trains  of  pack-mules  as  were 
constantly  departing  (so  heavily  laden^  T  pitied  the 
poor  beasts  from  my  heart)  on  their  long  and  tedi- 
ous journeys  to  far-distant  mining  regions.  There^ 
toO;  is  seen  the  swarthy  Mexican  vaquero,  mounted 
on  his  fleet  Californian  steed^  galloping  through 
the  street^  all  booted  and  spurred  ;"and  oh,  what 
spurs !  —  enough  to  make  one  cringe  when  they 
see  them  driven  so  mercilessly  into  the  reeking 
sides  of  the  poor  beast.  Then  the  mule  and  horse 
auctions  at  the  corners  of  the  streets,  drawing  to- 
gether a  motley-looking  set  of  fellows,  rough  and 
uncouth  in  appearance,  but  possessing,  nevertheless, 
noble  hearts,  ready  hands,  and,  I  have  no  doubt, 
well-filled  purses,  with  which  to  assist  a  fellow- 
sujBferer.  I  lived  long  enough  in  California  to  learn 
from  experience  never  to  judge  a  person  by  his 
apparel.  The  coarsest  garb  often  covered  the 
warmest  hearts;  the  most  sun-burned,  heavily- 
bearded  physiognomy  often  concealed  the  most 
intellectual  features ;  for  all  classes  had  flocked 
indiscriminately  to  the  gold  regions  of  California. 

On  the  night  of  our  arriyal,  there  was  a  travel- 
ling theatre  to  open  for  the  first  time  in  Marys- 
ville ;  and  a  mounted  horseman  was  galloping 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC, 


119 


through  the  streetKS^  announcing^  at  the  top  of  his 
voice,  the  programme  of  the  evening's  performance. 
After  supper^  being  somewhat  fatigued  from  the 
journey  up  river^  I  retired^  but  not  to  sleep.  Such 
a  din  and  confusion  as  was  kept  up  in  the  street ! 
A  bowhng  alley  and  gambling  house  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  way  each  contributed  their  share 
to  the  babel-like  confusion^  that  seemed  to  reign- 
triumphant.  Our  room  was  situated  in  the  front 
part  of  the  buildings  the  only  access  to  which  was 
from  the  balcony ;  and  the  only  way  of  admitting 
any  air  into  the  room  was  by  leaving  open  the 
door^  which  served  the  double  purpose  of  window 
and  door.  Sometime  in  the  nighty  we  were  aroused 
by  some  person  moving  about  the  room.  I  was 
terribly  frightened^  thinkings  of  course^  it  was  some 
robber  or  assassin.  My  husband  accosted  the  in- 
truder with  Halloa !  what  do  you  want  here  ?  " 
The  reply  was^  "  I  am  coming  to  bed  !  what  busi- 
ness have  you  in  my  bed  ?  ComC;,  vamos  !  "  and, 
in  the  mean  time^  he  was  making  preparations  to 
strike  a  light.  Said  my  husband^  "  There  is  a  lady 
here ;  tve  occupy  this  room.  Now  leave  instanter, 
or  I  will  assist  you."  He  started  to  the  door, 
muttering,  "  I  will  see  the  landlord  about  this ;  if 
there  was  not  a  lady  here,  I  would  see  who  the 


120  '      SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


room  belonged  to."  As  soon  as  he  left,  my  hus- 
band shut  and  locked  the  door,  and  we  were  left 
unmolested,  to  smother  until  morning. 

It  seemed,  upon  inquiry,  that  our  room  had  been 
previously  occupied  by  two  brothers.  Upon  our 
arrival,  the  house  being  crowded,  and  one  of  the 
brothers  absent  for  a  few  days,  the  landlord  had 
proposed  to  the  remaining  one  to  resign  his  double 
bed  for  a  single  one,  in  order  to  accommodate  us. 
The  absent  brother  returned  late  in  the  night, 
and  the  bar-keeper,  through  negligence  or  igno- 
rance, omitted  to  inform  him  of  the  change ;  and 
thereby  I  was  frightened  half  out  of  my  wits  at 
this  midnight  intrusion. 

Ladies  were  very  scarce  in  Marysville ;  at  this 
time  there  were  not  more  than  half  a  dozen,  at 
the  most,  who  were  deserving  of  the  appellation. 
Comparatively  speaking,  there  were  no  children.  I 
had  lived  there  more  than  a  year  before  the  merry 
voice  of  childhood  gladdened  my  ears.  There  were 
no  churches,  no  school-houses.  All  were  intent 
upon  the  one  great  object  that  had  lured  them  so 
far  from  their  native  land.  There  were  assembled 
representatives  from  every  clime  and  country  on 
the  face  of  the  globe.  The  European,  the  Asiatic, 
the  African,  the  Anglo-Saxon,  the  Sandwich-Islander, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


121 


all,  whose  general  interests  and  pursuits  were  so 
varied,  had  here  convened  for  one  and  the  same 
purpose  —  to  get  gold.  No  law  was  acknowledged 
except  Lynch  law ;  and  the  penalty  for  offences,  so 
summarily  enforced  by  the  vigilance  committees, 
served  admirably  to  keep  in  check  the  murderous, 
villanous  propensities  of  too  many  of  the  refugees 
from  justice  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  Alas ! 
many  of  them  had  found  a  shelter  in  the  almost 
inaccessible  fastnesses  of  the  mountains,  remote 
from  the  regular  settlements,  and  beyond  the  reach 
of  organized  vigilance  committees.  In  the  solitary 
recesses  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  were  little  clusters 
of  men,  with  nothing  but  the  trees,  ai^d  perhaps  a 
little  canvas  tent,  for  shelter,  and  no  protection  but 
their  own  strength  and  vigilance,  possessed  of  large 
amounts  of  gold,  where  there  was  no  eye  to  see, 
and  no  agent  to  pursue,  the  guilty.  It  was  not 
strange,  where  the  temptation  was  so  great,  that 
robbers  and  assassins  were  ever  ready  to  pouncJe 
upon  the  unwary. 

Board  at  the  United  States  Hotel  at  that  time 
was  four  dollars  per  diem  for  the  single  person ; 
therefore,  with  our  limited  means,  we  could  remain 
here  but  a  short  time.  The  Tremont  Hotel  had 
been  recently  erected,  and  I  learned  the  proprie- 

11 


122 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


tors  would  like  to  find  an  American  lady  to  super- 
intend the  domestic  department.  I  presented  my- 
self,  and  obtained  the  situation.  I  was  to  receive 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars  per  month. 
In  the  interim,  my  husband  was  looking  about, 
undetermined  what  business  to  engage  in.  We 
stopped  at  the  Tremont  five  weeks,  at  the  expira- 
tion of  which  time,  my  husband  rented  the  Atlantic 
Hotel,  and  thither  we  removed.  This  was  in  July. 
The  heat  was  intense,  the  thermometer  ranging 
from  90  to  110  deg.,  not  only  day  after  day,  but 
week  after  week.  How  I  watched  in  vain  for  a 
cloud  in  the  horizon  !  but  not  one  appeared  for 
months,  to  mitigate  the  scorching  fervency  of  the 
heat. 

While  stopping  at  the  Tremont,  I  witnessed 
what  to  me  was  a  novel  sight ;  and  if,  kind  reader, 
you  will  pardon  the  digression,  I  will  endeavor  to 
relate,  in  a  manner  which  I  hope  will  interest,  the 
method  of  taming  a  wild  horse.  The  first  I  saw 
was  an  unusual  *  collection  of  people,  and  in  their 
midst  a  horse  blindfolded,  with  a  Mexican  va- 
quero  in  the  act  of  mounting.  When  once  seated 
on  the  back  of  these  wild,  fleet  animals  of  the 
plains,  it  is  next  to  an  impossibility  to  unhorse 
them.    From  the  nature  of  their  pursuits  and 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


123 


amusements^  they  have  brought  horsemanship  to  a 
degree  of  perfection  challenging  ^idmiratioU;  and 
exciting  astonishment.  All  things  being  in  readi- 
ness^  the  blinder  was  removed.  The  horse^  for  the 
first  time  in  his  life  feeling^ the  weight  of  man  upon 
his  back,  with  distended  nostrils^  eyes  glaring  like 
orbs  of  fire^  and  appearing  to  protrude  from  their 
sockets,  gave  a  succession  of  fierce  snorts,  performed 
sundry  evolutions  which  would  have  puzzled  the 
master  of  a  gymnasium, to  have  imitated,  and  then 
dashed  off*  at  a  furious  rate,  seemingly  determined 
to  free  himself  from  his  captor,  or  die  in  the 
attempt.  It  was  an  exciting  and  cruel  sport  to 
witness.  The  reeking  sides  of  the  poor  beast  were 
covered  with  foam  and  blood,  which  had  been 
drawn  by  driving  those  merciless  spurs  into  the 
flesh.  Both  horse  and  rider  would  disappear  for  a 
few  moments  in  some  distant  part  of  the  town, 
then  reappear  again,  dashing  madly  on.  Finally, 
the  horse,  in  passing  the  Tremont  Hotel,  which 
was  all  thrown  open  in  front  to  admit  air,  sprang, 
quick  as  a  flash,  upon  the  piazza,  and  dashed  madly 
into  the  bar-room.  In  making  his  ingress  so  sud- 
denly, the  Mexican's  head  had  been  forcibly  struck 
against  the  top  of  the  door,  and  he  fell  stunned  to 
the  floor.    The  inmates  of  the  bar-room,  number- 


124 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


ing  about  twenty^  fled  in  every  direction.  The 
bar-kee|)er^  a  very  corpulent  person^  made  his 
egress  through  a  small  back  window  —  so  small, 
that,  upon  ordinary  occasions,  he  would  never  have 
had  the  presumption  to  attempt  it,  as  it  was  actu- 
ally endangering  his  life  by  so  suddenly  thrusting 
his  portly  figure  through  so  small  an  aperture ; 
but  now,  out  of  two  evils,  he  was  constrained  to 
choose  the  least.  The  horse,  finding  himself  in 
undisputed  possession  of  the  room,  stood  for  an 
instant  surveying  himself  in  an  extensive  mirror 
suspended  behind  the  long  marble  slab.  Then, 
prompted  by  an  irresistible  desire  to  become  better 
acquainted  with  the  image  reflected  in  the  glass, 
or  possessing  the  principles  of  teetotalism  to  such 
an  extent  that  he  was  bent  upon  immediate  anni- 
hilation, he  dashed  furiously  at  the  bar,  upsetting 
it,  and  dashing  the  splendid  mirror  into  a  thousand 
pieces,  demolishing  the  elegant  cutglass  decanters, 
while  the  contents  ran  profusely  upon  the  floor. 
He  also  dashed  to  pieces  several  large  arm-chairs, 
valued  at  twelve  dollars  apiece.  Then  he  passed 
through  a  side-door  into  a  large  saloon,  traversed 
that  without  doing  any  material  damage ;  and, 
when  in  the  act  of  leaving  the  house,  the  Mexican, 
who  had,  in  the  meantime,  recovered  his  senses 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


125 


and  his  feet  also^  sprang  with  surprising  agihty 
upon  his  back^  and  the  race  for  freedom  again  com- 
menced ;  but  this  time  not  of  long  duration.  The 
horse^  reduced  almost  to  prostration^  yielded  to  the 
superior  power  of  man^  and  was  taken^  more  dead 
than  alive,  to  a  stable,  rubbed  down,  placed  in  a 
stall,  fed,  and  petted ;  and,  from  the  hour  in  which 
he  unwillingly  relinquished  a  life  of  freedom,  never 
more  to  roam  with  a  wild  herd  over  broad  plains 
and  jflowery  vales,  he  was  a  gentle,  submissive  slave. 
The  wild  horse  is  gracefully  formed,  with  flowing 
tail  and  mane ;  but  I  never  saw  one  very  fat  —  they 
race  their  flesh  oK  The  man  who  owned  the  horse 
readily  paid  the  expenses  of  refitting  the  bar-room. 
The  amount  of  property  he  destroyed  was  at  that 
time  estimated  at  a  thousand  dollars. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains  and  the  coast  range 
run  nearly  parallel  with  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 
The  first  are  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred 
miles  from  the  Pacific,  and  the  last  from  fifty  to 

IP 


126 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


sixty.  The  valley  between  them  is  the  most  fertile 
portion  of  California.  Marysville  is  situated  in  this 
valley^  about  twenty  miles  in  a  south-westerly  di- 
rection from  the  lovf  hills  of  the  Sierra  Nevada ; 
which  form^  as  it  were^  the  lower  steps  of  an  im- 
mense gigantic  flighty  terminating  upon  the  summit 
of  a  range  of  mountains  which  would  not  suffer  in 
comparison  with  any  of  transatlantic  existence. 

North  of  the  city  of  Marysville  is  a  plain  of  seve- 
ral miles  in  extent.  This  flat  expanse  is  dotted 
with  evergreen  oaks,  the  shape  and  foliage  of  which, 
previous  to  minute  examination,  present  an  exact 
resemblance  of  the  apple-tree.  When  it  was  impos- 
sible to  procure  apples  at  any  price,  or  even  after 
they  were  as  low  as  fifty  cents  apiece,  w^hen  enjoy- 
ing a  walk  upon  the  plains  I  would  be  constrained, 
in  opposition  to  my  knowledge  to  the  contrary,  to 
look  under  the  trees,  wishing  I  could  only  find  oiie 
apple,  it  would  have  tasted  so  sweet. 

In  a  westerly  direction  from  Marysville  are  situ- 
ated the  Butte  Mountains,  which  present  a  singular 
appearance.  They  constitute  one  of  the  sublimest 
features  of  California  scenery,  rising  as  they  do 
abruptly  from  the  level  plain  which  extends  for 
miles  around  them.  There  are  three  high  eleva- 
tions, which,  seen  from  a  distance,  might  be  aptly 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


127 


compared  to  three  mountain  islands^  rising  from 
the  surface  of  the  ocean.  It  is  said  that^  standing 
on  the  top  of  the  Butte  Mountains  in  a  clear  day, 
with  a  telescope  in  hand,  Monte  Diabolo  can  be 
plainly  seen :  the  space  lying  between  is  nearly 
three  hundred  miles.  Feather  River  forms  the 
western  boundary  to  the  city  limits.  The  Yuba 
Eiver  opposite  the  piazza  is  wider  than  at  any  other 
place.  When  bank-full,  I  should  judge  it  to  be 
nearly  three  hundred  yards  in  width.  In  the  dry 
season,  it  is  fordable  for  teams ;  and  there  is  also  a 
ferry  across  the  river.  The  most  of  the  city  at  first 
was  built  around  the  piazza,  which  is  less  elevated 
than  the  plain  which  extends  back.  Since  then, 
owing  to  frequent  inundations  of  the  piazza,  from 
which  residents  sustained  material  damage,  they 
have  removed  most  of  the  business  houses  to  the 
upper  part  of  the  city.  Marysville,  I  think,  follow- 
ing the  course  of  the  river,  is  about  two  hundred 
miles,  and  perhaps  two  hundred  and  fifty,  from  San 
Francisco.  The  first  rains  there  usually  fall  in 
November,  and  last  until  May.  As  soon  as  the 
ground  becomes  moistened,  the  grass,  and  other 
hardy  vegetation,  springs  up ;  and,  by  the  middle 
of  December,  the  landscape  is  arrayed  in  a  robe  of 
fresh  verdure ;  the  plains,  which,  during  the  dry 


128 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


season,  had  assumed  the  appearance  of  the  streets, 
now  present  a  perfect  carpet  of  green,  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  see.  Beautiful  flowers  spring  up  spontane- 
ously in  every  direction,  gladdening  the  vision  with 
their  variegated  and  gorgeous  colors,  and,  I  wish  I 
could  add,  rendering  the  air  redolent  with  perfume ; 
but,  although  so  beautiful  to  the  sight,  they  possess 
very  little  fragrance,  if  any. 

Deep  gullies  that  intersect  the  country,  and 
which  during  the  dry  summer  appear  as  if  they 
never  saw  a  drop  of  water,  now  become  the  chan- 
nels of  rapidly  rushing  streams.  So  much  do  they 
resemble  rivers,  that  I  heard  one  novice,  who  made 
his  first  appearance  at  this  season,  inquire,  pointing 
to  one  of  these  sloughs,  "  Do  they  catch  salmon  in 
that  river?"  Some  of  them  are  deep  and  miry. 
Teamsters,  who  have  attempted  to  ford  them,  have 
sometimes  lost  their  lives  in  the  attempt.  When 
these  sloughs  are  very  much  swollen  by  heavy 
rains,  all  communication  with  the  country  back  is 
cut  off.  The  season  for  sowing  grain  commences 
as  soon  as  the  ground  is  sufficiently  moistened  to 
permit  of  ploughing,  and  continues  until  March. 
There  were  some  fine  ranches  along  the  banks  of 
the  Yuba.  The  bottom  lands  are  very  rich  and 
productive,  yielding  an  excellent  harvest  of  wheat, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


129 


oats^  and  barley.  Vegetables  grow  to  an  enormous 
size^  and  surpass  in  flavor  any  I  ever  before  tasted. 
I  never  dreamed  of  seeing  water-melons  grow  to 
such  a  size  as  I  saw  them  here.  Recollect,  now,  I 
only  state  facts.  I  saw  one  water-melon  sell  for 
twelve  dollars :  it  was  sold  by  the  pound.  It  was 
the  first  year  any  had  ever  been  raised  in  Upper 
California.  Mr.  Briggs,  who  raised  them,  told  me 
that  that  year,  from  the  sale  of  his  melons  alone, 
he  realized  twenty  thousand  dollars.  Is  it  to  be 
wondered  at  that  miners  who  had  been  subsisting 
one,  two,  and  perhaps  three  years,  upon  j)ork  and 
beans,  and  ham,  varied  occasionally  by  a  repast  of 
flap-jacks  and  molasses,  and  once  in  a  great  while 
get  a  sight  of  a  potato,  should  be  eager  to  possess 
themselves  of  a  water-melon,  at  any  price?  No 
one  except  those  who  were  miners  in  the  early 
days  of  gold-hunting  can  conceive  of  the  hardships, 
the  sacrifices  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  and  some- 
times of  life  itself,  they  were  subjected  to  —  per- 
haps nearly  starving,  with  thousands  of  dollars' 
.  worth  of  gold-dust  in  their  possession.  What  w^ill 
not  a  man  suffer  for  gold  ?  The  first  winter  I  passed 
in  California  proved  to  be  the  rainiest  I  ever  after- 
wards experienced ;  yet  that  w^ould  scarcely  com- 
pare with  the  winter  of  1849. 


130 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


I  must  confess  I  never  before  saw  it  rain  (I  should 
say  pour)  so  unceasingly  for  such  a  length  of  time^ 
—  a  week;  perhaps^  every  day  and  nighty  and  some- 
times longer ;  then  the  sun  would  shine  out  quite 
warm  for  a  week ;  then  rain  again.  The  mud  in 
the  streets  was  perfectly  awful  to  behold^  but  much 
more  awful  to  find  yourself  sinking  into  the  miry 
depths.  The  rain  in  the  valley  was  snow  in  the 
mountains ;  and^  forty  miles  from  Marysville^  the 
snow  might  be  ten  feet  deep  or  more^  while  in  the 
city  it  would  be  sufficiently  warm  to  sit  with  the 
windows  open.  When  the  dry  season  commences, 
then  farewell  to  green  grass,  bright  flowers,  and 
everything  pertaining  to  the  beautiful,  and  prepare 
yourself  to  be  suffocated  with  dust  and  sand,  debili- 
tated by  the  oppressive  heat,  and  devoured  by 
myriads  of  fleas.  All  this,  and  much  more,  you 
must  endure,  if  you  remain  in  Marysville  through 
the  summer.  But,  if  not  engaged  in  business,  you 
can  flee  away  to  the  mountains,  and  in  some. seques- 
tered vale  enjoy  the  lovely  scenery,  the  cool  spring 
water,  inhale  the  invigorating  mountain  air,  and, 
for  exercise,  climb  to  the  summits  of  the  mountains, 
timbered  with  large  pines,  firs,  and  cedars,  with  a 
smaller  growth  of  magnolia,  manzanita,  hawthorn, 
etc.,  etc.    Notwithstanding  the  heat  is  so  intense 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


131 


during  the  dry  season^  the  atmosphere  is  so  pure 
that  meat^  when  left  exposed  to  the  sun^  never 
spoils ;  and^  after  one  of  those  excessively  hot  days, 
the  nights  are  extremely  pleasant  and  comfortable. 
I  never  saw  a  night  in  California  when  I  was  de- 
prived of  refreshing  slumber  on  account  of  the  heat 
and  oppressive  atmosphere.  I  have  known  labor- 
ing men  at  work  there  digging  cellars^  when  the 
thermometer  in  the  place  where  they  were  at  work 
would  rise  to  125  deg. ;  and  yet  those  people  could 
endure  to  work  there,  day  after  day,  when,  to  work 
in  such  hot  days  in  our  climate,  and  with  the  sun 
striking  directly  on  their  heads,  would  have  caused 
sickness,  or  even  death. 

It  seemed  so  strange  to  me,  after  one  of  those 
hot  days,  not  to  see  any  appearance  of  a  shower, 
not  the  slightest  film  of  vapor  in  all  the  vast  azure 
vault. 

Some  of  the  smaller  houses  were  constructed  of 
zinc.  A  lady  who  occupied  one  positively  averred 
that  the  sides  of  the  house  were  so  hot,  that  she 
had  only  to  place  her  dough,  when  she  was  going 
to  bake  bread,  in  close  proximity  to  the  wall,  where 
the  heat  was  sufficient  to  cook  it.  These  zinc  shan- 
ties were  all  abandoned  before  the  summer  was 
half  spent.  They  were  positively  more  like  ovens 
than  dwellings. 


132 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


There  is  but  little  disease  in  the  country  arising 
from  the  climate.  On  some  of  the  rivers^  where 
vegetation  is  rank^  and  Jecays  in  autumn^  the  ma- 
laria produces  chills  and  fever,  which  sometimes, 
when  neglected  too  long,  proves  fatal. 

The  soil  and  climate  of  California  is  peculiarly 
adapted  to  the  culture  of  the  grape.  The  delicious 
richness  and  flavor  of  the  California  grapes  nothing 
of  the  fruit  kind  can  equal.  The  cactus  grows 
spontaneously  in  California,  and  some  of  the  in- 
closures  are  hedged  in  by  this  plant,  which  grows 
to  an  enormous  size,  and  makes  an  impervious  bar- 
rier against  man  and  beast.  The  stalks  of  some  of 
the  plants  are  of  the  thickness  of  a  man's  body,  and 
grow  to  the  height  of  fifteen  feet.  One  of  the  most 
serviceable  of  the  California  plants  is  the  soap-plant. 
The  root,  which  is  the  saponaceous  portion  of  the 
plant,  resembles  the  onion,  and  possesses  the  quality 
of  cleansing  linen  equal  to  any  soap. 

The  wild  animals  of  California  are  the  wild  horse, 
elk,  black-tailed  deer,  antelope,  grisly  bear,  beaver, 
otter,  cayote,  hare  squirrel,  and  a  variety  of  other 
vsmall  animals.  The  interior  lakes  and  rivers  swarm 
with  myriads  of  wild  geese,  ducks,  and  other  birds ; 
the  pheasant  and  partridge  are  numerous  in  the 
mountains. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


133 


For  salubrity  I  do  not  think  there  is  any  dimate 
in  the  world  superior  to  that  of  California,  I  have 
known  people  in  the  country  who  have  been  ex- 
posed much  of  the  time  to  great  hardships  and  pri- 
vationSj  sleeping  most  of  the  time  in  the  open  air^ 
and  never  suffering  the  first  pangs  of  disease^  or  the 
slightest  indications  of  ill-health,  California  is  rich 
in  mineral  productions  of  all  kinds. 

Wheats  barley^  and  other  grains^  can  be  produced 
in  the  valleys  without  irrigation.  Oats  grow  spon- 
taneously^,  and  with  such  rankness  as  to  be  consider- 
ed a  nuisance  upon  the  soil.  I  have  seen  acres  of 
these  growing  so  high  as  to  almost  hide  the  cattle 
feeding  among  them.  The  oats  grow  to  the  sum- 
mits of  the  hills,  but  not  so  tall  as  in  the  valleys. 
All  the  variety  of  grasses  which  cover  the  country 
are  heavily  seeded,  and,  when  ripe,  are  as  fattening 
to  the  stock  as  the  grains  with  which  we  feed  our 
stock  in  this  country.  Nearly  all  the  fruits  of  tem- 
perate and  tropical  climates  can  be  produced  in 
perfection  in  California. 

The  Californians  do  not  differ  materially  from 
the  Mexicans,  from  whom  they  are  descended.  The 
native  Californian  is  almost  constantly  on  horse- 
back, and,  as  horsemen,  excel  any  I  have  seen  in 
other  parts  of  the  world.    The  Californian  saddle 

12 


134 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


is  the  best  that  has  ever  been  invented  for  the 
horse  and  rider.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to  be  un- 
seated by  any  ordinary  casualty.  The  bridle-bit 
is  clumsily  made^  but  so  constructed  that  the  horse 
is  compelled  to  obey  the  rider^  upon  the  slightest 
intimation ;  the  spurs  are  of  immense  size.  With 
his  horse  and  trappings^  scrape  and  blankets,  a 
piece  of  beef,  and  he  is  content,  as  far  as  personal 
comforts  are  concerned.  His  amusements  consist 
of  the  fandango,  game  of  monte,  horse-racing,  and 
bear  and  buU-jSghting ;  and  a  very  exciting  sport 
among  them  is  the  lassoing  of  wild  cattle.  They 
are  trained  to  the  use  of  the  lasso  (riata,  as  it  is 
here  called)  from  their  infancy.  A  vaquero,  mount- 
ed on  a  trained  horse,  and  provided  with  a  lasso, 
proceeds  to  the  place  where  the  herd  is  grazing. 
Selecting  an  animal,  he  soon  secures  it  by  throwing 
the  noose  of  the  lasso  over  the  horns,  and  fastening 
the  other  end  around  the  pommel  of  the  saddle. 
During  the  first  struggles  of  the  animal  for  liberty, 
which  usually  are  very  violent,  the  vaquero  sits 
firmly  in  his  seat,  and  keeps  his  horse  in  such  a  po- 
sition that  the  fury  and  strength  of  the  beast  are 
wasted,  without  producing  any  other  result  than 
his  own  exhaustion.  The  animal,  soon  ascertaining 
that  he  cannot  release  himself  from  the  rope,  sub- 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


135 


mits  io  be  pulled  along  to  the  place  of  execution. 
Arriving  here,  the  vaquero  vfinds  the  lasso  around 
the  legs  of  the  animal,  and  throws  him  to  the 
ground,  where  he  lies  perfectly  helpless  and  mo- 
tionless. Dismounting  from  his  horse,  he  then 
takes  from  his  leggin  his  butcher-knife,  which  he 
always  carries  with  him,  and  sticks  him  in  the 
throat.  The  daring  horsemanship,  and  the  dexte- 
rous use  of  the  lariat,  .usually  displayed  on  these 
occasions,  are  worthy  of  admiration. 

The  native  Californian  ladies  lack  the  clear,  olive 
complexion  so  much  admired  in  the  pure  Castilian ; 
but  they  are  equally  as  animated  in  conversation, 
and  their  dark  eyes  flash  with  all  the  intelligence 
and  passion  characteristic  of  the  Spanish  woman. 
There  are  few  things  more  beautiful  than  their 
manner  of  salutation. 

Among  themselves,  they  never  meet  without 
embracing ;  but  -to  men  and  strangers  on  the  street 
they  lift  the  right  hand  to  near  the  lips,  gently  in- 
clining the  head  toward  it,  and,  gracefully  fluttering 
their  fingers,  send  forth  their  recognition  with  an 
arch  beaming  of  the  eye  that  is  almost  as  bewitching 
as  a  kiss.  They  dance  with  much  ease  and  grace : 
the  waltz  appears  to  be  a  favorite  with  them. 
Smoking  is  not  prohibited  in  these  assemblies,  nor 


136 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


is  it  confined  to  the  gentlemen.  The  cigarita  is 
freely  used  by  the  senoras  and  senoritas ;  and  they 
puflf  it  with  much  gusto  while  threading  the  mazes 
of  the  cotillon,  or  swinging  in  the  bev/itching  waltz. 
The  cigarita  is  not  without  its  powers  of  fascina- 
tion in  the  lips  of  a  lovely  woman,  even  rivalling 
the  use  of  the  fan  as  an  appliance  of  coquetry. 

In  Marysville  were  assembled  women  from  all 
parts  of  the  world ;  and  I  assure  you  it  was  an 
interesting  study  to  watch  the  different  natures, 
dispositions,  tastes,  pursuits,  manners,  and  customs 
of  these  fair  representatives  of  distant  climes.  But 
among  them  all,  the  Yankee  women  stand  pre- 
eminent, so  far  as  regards  principle,  industry,  and 
economy,  and,  as  a  general  thing,  are  as  often 
sought  after  for  companions  for  life  by  the  oppo- 
site sex  as  those  who  can  claim  preeminence  in 
mere  personal  attractions,  and  are  destitute  of  the 
more  sterling  attributes,  so  essential  to  prosperity 
and  happiness  through  the  varied  phases  of  real 
life. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


137 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

I  WILL  now  give  you  a  sketch  of  our  hotel-keep- 
ing in  California.  My  husband  rented  the  Atlantic 
Hotel,  which  was  not  a  very  spacious  one,  for  two 
hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars  per  month.  For 
our  cook  we  paid  two  hundred  and  fifty  per  month, 
our  steward  one  hundred  and  twenty-five,  and  for 
all  other  assistance  in  a  similar  proportion. 

The  house  was  always  filled  to  its  utmost  ca- 
pacity ;  and  the  prospect  of  future  success  was 
jflattering  in  the  extreme,  provided  I  had  strength 
given  me  to  sustain  the  weight  of  care  and  labor 
necessarily  devolving  upon  me.  Often,  on  account 
of  exorbitant  demands  from  servants,  —  demands 
which  could  not  reasonably  be  granted,  —  I  would 
be  compelled  to  work  early  and  late,  for  days  and 
weeks  in  succession.  Not  having  been  accustomed 
to  living  and  working  in  such  excessive  heat,  my 
system  became  debilitated ;  I  felt  my  strength 
gradually  yielding  to  excessive  weakness  ;  and,  in 
a  little  less  than  three  months  from  the  time  we 
went  to  the  Atlantic,  I  was  seized  with  a  fever. 
For  weeks  I  lay  very  sick.  My  physician  pro- 
nounced my  recovery  hopeless  unless  removed 

12* 


138 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


from  the  hotel;  where^  of  necessity^  so  much  confu- 
sion prevailed.  Consequently^  I  was  removed  to  a 
little  canvas  shanty^  which  my  husband  had  previ- 
ously purchased;  placed  upon  a  straw  bed;  and  for 
more  than  two  months  I  was  confined  to  that 
pallet  of  straw. 

The  dimensions  of  the  lot  upon  which  this  shanty 
was  erected  were  one  hundred  and  sixty  by  eighty 
feet.  It  was  represented  to  be  an  excellent  loca- 
tioU;  destined  to  be  soon  in  the  heart  of  a  big  city. 
My  husband  paid  four  hundred  dollars  for  the 
place  I  and;  as  an  evidence  of  the  sudden  and 
enormous  rise  of  real  estate  in  California;  where 
there  was  the  least  prospect  of  a  city  rushing  into 
existence;  —  for  in  that  coimtry  cities  have  no  state 
of  infancy;  —  I  will  here  add;  that;  three  years  after- 
wards;  this  same  lot;  with  the  addition  of  a  better 
building;  though  not  an  expensive  onC;  was  valued 
at  twelve  thousand  dollarS;  and  could  have  been 
disposed  of  quickly  for  that  sum.  During  the  two 
months  that  I  was  prostrated  by  sickness,  my 
sufferings  were  intense;  both  physical  and  mental. 
Doctors  at  that  time  were  charging  five  and  eight 
dollars  a  visit.  The  state  of  the  country  was  such; 
it  was  almost  impossible  to  procure  the  comforts 
of  lifC;  unless  one  was  possessed  of  a  fortune. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


139 


Eggs  were  seven  dollars  per  dozen ;  milk,  one 
dollar  per  quart ;  and,  for  six  weeks,  I  was  not 
allowed  to  eat  any  thing  except  boiled  milk.  Our 
income  had  ceased  when  we  sold  out  the  hotel. 
Every  day  my  disorder  was  growing  worse,  and 
our  funds  were  growing  less.  The  sides  of  our 
little  shanty  were  constructed  of  rough  clapboards, 
not  very  nicely  matched ;  in  some  places,  you 
could  put  your  hand  through  the  interstices.  The 
roof  was  canvas,  and  miserably  old  at  that.  The 
front  part  of  this  domicile  could  boast  of  a  few 
boards,  which  served  as  an  apology  for  a  floor. 
Old  boxes  and  trunks  served  in  lieu  of  chairs. 
When  I  was  able  to  sit  up,  there  was  no  chair  to 
sit  in.  My  husband  procured  one  at  Sacramento, 
—  quite  an  inferior  cane-seated  rocking-chair,  — 
for  which  he  paid  the  exorbitant  sum  of  twelve 
dollars.  That  was  the  first  and  only  chair  which 
ever  graced  our  miserable  abode.  My  bed  and 
even  pillows  were  of  straw;  and  oh,  how  hard 
they  seemed  to  my  poor  and  emaciated  frame  !  for 
I  was  reduced  to  a  mere  skeleton.  At  times,  when 
the  fever  raged,  how  grateful  I  should  have  been 
for  one  drop  of  cold  water.  All  the  water  with 
which  the  city  was  supplied  was  taken  from  the 
Yuba  River.    It  was  quite  warm,  and  rendered 


140 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


far  from  clear  by  the  mining  operations  which 
were  carried  on  at  the  bars  above.  The  painful 
sickness  which  chained  me  for  so  many  weeks  to  a 
sick  bed  was  superinduced  by  drinking  too  freely 
of  this  muddy  water. 

In  close  proximity  to  our  dwelling  was  a  second- 
class  boarding-house^  from  which^  especially  at 
nighty  issued  discordant  sounds  of  noisy  revelry^ 
mingled  with  angry  bickerings.  All  this  was  pecu- 
liarly trying  to  one  whose  nerves  were  wrought  to 
the  utmost  tension.  When  nights  I  would  be  left 
alone  for  hours  together^  I  suffered  inconceivably 
from  fright.  When  my  husband  would  go  out;  he 
would  Iqck  the  door  upon  the  outside ;  for  I  was 
too  feeble  to  rise  from  the  bed  without  assistance, 
and  far  too  timid  to  remain  alone  with  the  doors 
unfastened.  Every  fresh  burst  of  uproarious  mirth 
or  frightful  anger  issuing  from  the  contiguous 
building  would  send  a  thrill  of  horror  through  my. 
veins.  Oh,  how  my  thoughts,  during  those  lonely 
nights,  would  wander  to  my  home !  How  my 
heart  yearned  for  the  soothing  words  and  kind 
"attentions,  so  soul-cheering  when  emanating  from 
the  sympathetic  bosoms  of  disinterested  and  tender 
friends!  All  this  was  denied  me.  I  had  formed 
no  female  acquaintances  in  this  place.    There  was 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


141 


no  one  to  come  and  smooth  my  hard  pillow^  or 
utter  cheering;  consoling  words.  The  present  was 
dark  and  dreary^  with  no  bright  star  beaming 
through  the  murky  horizon  of  the  future.  One 
day  I  was  no  less  pleased  than  surprised  at  the 
appearance  of  a  lady  in  my  room^  whose  benevo- 
lent;  pleasant  countenance  plainly  implied  peace^ 
hopCj  and  happiness.  She  introduced  herself  as 
Mrs.  S  ;  recently  from  Cincinnati.  Her  resi- 
dence being  near^  she  had  accidentally  heard  of 
my  situation^  and  had  visited  me  for  the  express 
purpose  of  rendering  any  assistance  in  her  power. 
No  kind  mother  could  have  been  more  attentive 

to  the  wants  of  a  loved  child^  than  was  Mrs.  S  

to  mine  through  the  remainder  of  my  sickness. 
She  had  her  own  family  to  attend  to  ;  yet  every 
day  she  found  time  to  visit  me^  and  minister  kindly 
to  my  wants.  How  anxiously  I  watched  for  her 
coming !  and  when  I  would  hear  her  light  footstep^ 
and  listen  to  the  gentle  accents  of  her  sweet  voice, 
I  could  only  acknowledge  her  presence  but  by  tears. 
She  was  a  messenger  of  peace  and  love^,  a  truly 
pious  and  exemplary  w^oinan,  and^  during  my  resi- 
dence in  Marysville,  ever  remained  my  firmest 
friend.  She  prospered  in  Marysville  j  and  may 
kind  Providence  ever  shower  His  richest  blessings 
upon  this  truly  Christian  lady ! 


142 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


About  this  time  the  country  was  unusually  agi- 
tated. The  villanies  practised  and  murders  com- 
mitted by  an  organized  band  of  cut-throats^  of  whom 
the  notorious  mountain  robber,  Joaquin,  was  the 
chief,  had  excited  the  horror,  and  aroused  the  ven- 
geance, of  the  entire  populace  of  Upper  California. 
No  effort  had  been  spared  to  capture  him,  dead  or 
alive ;  but,  with  the  perfect  adroitness  of  an  accom- 
plished scamp,  he  ever  eluded  and  bid  defiance  to 
pursuit  by  mounting  some  one  of  the  many  fleet 
steeds  at  his  command,  and  fleeing  to  the  almost 
inaccessible  fastnesses  of  the  mountains.  His  path 
was  ever  stained  with  human  blood.  A  reward  of 
one  thousand  dollars  for  the  apprehension  of  Joa- 
quin, offered  by  Governor  Bigler,  was  still  further 
increased  by  the  sum  of  three  thousand  added  to 
it  by  the  Chinese.  These  people  are  industrious, 
economical,  and  timid.  It  was  ever  the  policy  of 
Joaquin  and  his  associates  to  prey  with  particular 
severity  upon  the  Chinese.  Frequent  thefts  were 
committed  in  their  camps ;  and,  when  resistance 
was  attempted,  they  were  butchered  with  a  heart- 
less cruelty,  becoming  the  sanguinary  nature  of  the 
murderer  and  outlaw.  When  suddenly  surprised, 
he  would  boldly  face  his  enemies,  and  receive  their 
bullets  on  his  breast,  which  glanced  or  were  flat- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


143 


tened  by  a  coat  of  steel  worn  underneath  his 
clothing. 

All  Spanish  countries  have  their  guerillas  and 
ladrones ;  but  a  feature  of  this  kind^  precipitated 
into  American  communities^  and  attended  with  such 
unparalleled  atrocities^  without  the  power  of  the 
people  to  avenge^  was  something  astonishingly  rare 
indeed.  California  was  not  the  place  of  his  birth^ 
and  he  could  not;  therefore^  have  had  any  national 
jealousies  because  of  the  occupancy  of  the  country 
by  the  Americans.  He  seemed  to  murder  merely 
for  the  love  of  the  sporty  and  to  rob  because  it  was 
a  life  of  excitement;  requiring  great  risk  in  its  ac- 
complishment;  and  yielding  large  profits  when  at- 
tended with  good  luck.  But  his  career  of  villany 
was  limited ;  and;  when  he  least  expected  it;  he  was 
seized  upon  to  expiate  his  crimes  by  an  ignominious 
death.  But  I  am  anticipating.  One  night;  I  was 
excessively  alarmed  by  an  unusual  commotion  about 
the  town.  Ringing  of  bells;  galloping  of  liorseS; 
groups  of  people  rushing  past;  talking  fiercely;  — 
all  conspired  to  confirm  the  belief  in  my  mind;  that 
the  vigilance  committee  were  about  to  execute 
summary  punishment  upon  some  guilty  offender. 
I  awoke  my  husband  :  he  dressed  himself  as  quickly 
as  possible;  and  issued  forth  to  ascertain  the  occa- 


144 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


sion  of  SO  much  noise.  Locking  the  door  after  him^ 
he  walked  away  to  join  the  throng  of  people  col- 
lected around  a  large  hardware  store  at  the  corner 
of  the  street.  He  was  gone  so  long,  I  feared  some 
accident  had  befallen  him.  What  agonizing  doubts 
I  was  a  prey  to  while  lying  in  suspense  in  that  little 
shanty !  It  was  a  long  time  before  he  returned. 
He  finally  came  with  the  intelligence  that  Joaquin, 
with  several  of  his  accomplices,  were  encamped 
about  three  miles  out  from  Marysville,  at  a  place 
called  the  Sonorian  Camp ;  and  that  Sheriff  Bu- 
chanan, in  attempting  to  surprise  and  capture  him^ 
had  been  shot.  ^ 

A  few  days  j)revious  to  this,  the  citizens  of  Marys- 
ville  and  yicinity  had  been  horribly  shocked  by  the 
announcement  in  their  midst  of  a  cruel  murder, 
perpetrated  on  the  road  between  Hansonville  and 
Marysville.  A  citizen  of  Marysville  had  carried  a 
load  of  goods  to  Hansonville,  and  disposed  of  them 
for  the  sum  of  fifteen  hundred  dollars.  On  his  re- 
turn, he  was  pursued  and  overtaken  by  some  Mexi- 
cans, supposed  to  be  of  Joaquin's  band,  lariated  and 
drawn  from  his  wagon,  and  mangled  in  a  horrible 
manner.  On  the  same  day,  a  passenger  wagon  was 
intercepted,  and  every  passenger  murdered ;  even 
the  horses'  throats  were  cut.    And  now  this  last 


SCEN^IS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


145 


deed  had  aroused  the  spirit  of  revenge  in  the  breast 
of  every  one  capable  of  carrying  arms. 

The  particulars  of  the  affair  were  these :  That 
night,  a  little  Mexican  boy,  who  resided  at  the  So- 
norian  Camp,  prompted  by  feelings  of  revenge  for 
a  punishment  that  day  received,  came  to  the  sheriff, 
and  revealed  Joaquin's  place  of  concealment.  Bu- 
chanan, eager,  doubtless,  of  achieving  unparalleled 
renown  by  capturing  this  notorious  robber  chieftain, 
with  a  select  few  hastened  to  the  spot  designated 
by  the  boy.  In  their  march,  they  were  compelled 
to  step  over  a  fallen  tree  lying  immediately  in  their 
path.  They  had  no  sooner  planted  their  feet  upon 
the  trunk  of  the  tree,  when  a  dozen  armed  men 
sprang  to  confront  them,  and  discharged  their  re- 
volvers in  their  faces.  The  consternation  of  the 
sheriff  and  his  party  was  universal.  Those  of  the 
number  who  were  not  so  disabled  as  to  prevent 
escape,  beat  a  hasty  retreat.  Among  these  was 
Buchanan.  He  had  not  fled  many  paces,  when  he 
received  a  mortal  wound,  as  he  supposed,  which 
brought  him  to  the  ground.  He  was  dragged  along 
by  his  companions  to  the  Sonorian  Camj),  where  a 
litter  was  procured,  upon  which  he  was  transported 
to  his  home  in  town.  Three  or  four  hundred  of 
the  inhabitants  armed  themselves  with  fire-arms 
13 


146 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIHC. 


from  the  hardware  store  above  alluded  to^  and  pro- 
ceeded to  the  ambuscade  of  the  terrible  robber 
chief  My  husband  departed  with  the  troop,  pre- 
viously locking  me  into  the  little  shanty;  for  I 
dared  not  remain  for  an  instant,  in  such  exciting 
times,  with  the  door  unfastened.  For  fear  he  would 
not  return  in  the  morning  before  the  heat  became 
too  oppressive  for  me  to  bear,  he  raised  a  window 
in  the  room,  and  dropped  the  curtain.  Then  I  was 
alone,  a  prey  to  my  gloomy  fancies.  Every  noise 
I  heard,  I  fancied  was  from  some  terrible  Mexican 
effecting  an  entrance  through  the  window,  and,  in 
imagination,  could  already  discern  the  swarthy, 
murderous  visage,  and  detect  the  sharp,  glittering 
blade  of  the  assassin's  knife.  The  memory  of  that 
night,  even  now,  is  accompanied  with  a  shudder. 
Soon  daylight  began  to  dawn,  and  with  the  shades 
of  night  vanished  all  my  fears.  I  was  so  weakened 
by  sickness,  that,  like  a  child,  who  is  naturally  prone 
to  superstition  and  fear  when  alone  in  the  dark,  the 
sufferings  I  endured  that  night  were  similar.  The 
forenoon  crept  on  apace,  and  yet  that  band  of  armed 
men  Jiad  not  returned,  I  knew,  by  the  silence  which 
reigned  in  the  streets.  As  I  lay,  wishing  my  hus- 
band would  return,  the  window-curtain  parted  sud- 
denly, and  one  of  the  ugliest-looking  faces  was 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


147 


thrust  into  the  room  I  ever  beheld.  At  first,  I  was 
nearly  paralyzed  with  terror ;  then,  recovering  my 
faculties,  I  exclaimed,  at  the  top  of  my  voice,  "  Va- 
mos !  vamos ! "  Knowing  him  to  be  Spanish  by  his 
look,  I  addressed  him  in  his  own  language ;  yet, 
feeling  that  was  not  sufficiently  expressive,  I  added, 
by  way  of  effect,  a  few  English  invectives,  which 
fell  very  harmlessly  upon  his  uncomprehending  ear. 
I  have  often  since  been  amused  at  the  recollection 
of  the  amount  of  courage  displayed  in  words,  when 
I  was  so  entirely  helpless  and  imbecile,  as  far  as 
action  was  required.  He  very  leisurely  reconnoitred 
the  apartment,  cast  a  look  commingled  of  scorn  and 
pity  upon  me,  turned  upon  his  heel,  and  disappeared. 
What  was  the  object  of  this  visit  of  espionage,  I 
never  could  conjecture.  About  noon,  my  husband 
returned.  The  party  had  been  unsuccessful  in  the 
pursuit;  had  caught  glimpses  of  the  retreating 
party  several  times,  but  they  had  finally  eluded 
pursuit.  The  people  returned  chagrined  and  dis- 
comfited to  their  homes,  to  hear,  in  a  week,  of  other 
murders  still  more  atrocious.  The  sheriff*  was  alive 
at  noon,  but  no  hopes  were  entertained  of  his  re- 
covery, as  the  ball,  to  all  appearance,  had  entered 
his  side,  and  passed  out  at  the  breast.  His  friends 
stood  around  the  bed,  momentarily  expecting  him 


148 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


to  breathe  his  last ;  still  he  lived  on.  His  physician 
concluded  to  probe  the  wound^  and  found  that  the 
ball;  upon  entering,  had  struck  a  rib,  glanced  and 
followed  the  rib  around^  and  passed  out  in  front. 
In  a  few  days  he  recovered  his  healthy  resumed  his 
official  duties^  and  continued  them  long  after  that. 

Oh;  how  happy  I  felt  when  I  could  walk  out  once 
more !  Distinctly  do  I  recollect  the  first  day  I  left 
the  shanty  for  a  walk.    I  went  the  distance  of  a 

square  to  visit  my  kind  friend  Mrs.  S  .  Upon 

my  return;  I  found  a  dear  brother  whom  I  had  not 
seen  for  two  years  and  more.  Oh;  the  joy  of  that 
meeting !  Words  would  inadequately  express  my 
feelings.  Only  one  month  had  elapsed  since  he 
bade  adieu  to  home  and  friendS;  laden  with  so 
many  messages  of  love ;  and  now  here  he  waS;  be- 
side mC;  repeating  what  father;  mother;  brothers; 
sister;  had  said  such  a  short  time  ago.  It  seemed 
as  if  I  had  been  transported  to  the  dear  old  hom6 ; 
had  met  the  family  assembled  around  the  hearth- 
.  stonC;  and  together  we  had  spoken  sweet  words  of 
counsel  and  of  love.  The  night  succeeding  his  ar- 
rival; we  sat  and  conversed  together  until  daylight 
began  to  dawU;  we  had  so  much  to  say  —  I  so  many 
questions  to  ask ;  he  so  much  to  relate.  He  wjis 
very  much  shocked  to  see  me  looking  so  much  .like 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


149 


a  wreck  of  my  former  self.  Sickness  and  trouble  — 
yeS;  such  trouble  as  rankles  deepest  in  the  heart  of 
a  wifC;  compared  with  which^  death  would  have 
been  joy  —  was  fast  doing  its  work. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Soon  after  my  brother's  arrival^  I  received  a  visit 

from  my  esteemed  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  B  and 

Nelly.  During  their  stay,  we  visited  Yuba  city, 
situated  about  half  a  mile  from  Marysville,  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  Feather  River.  It  may  not  be 
amiss  to  state,  that  Yuba  city,  with  the  exception 
of  three  or  four  houses,  has  been  removed  to  Marys- 
ville.  There  is,  however,  an  Indian  rancheria  ex- 
isting there,  which  draws  many  visitors  to  the  spot. 
We  started,  one  bright  morning,  in  a  two-horse 
team,  to  visit  the  rancheria.  It  was  proposed  to 
ford  the  stream.  Accordingly,  we  started  for  the 
ford.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  quite  precipitous ; 
and,  as  we  descended  the  steep  slope,  and  saw  the 

wide,  rolling  river  below,  we  felt  (Mrs.  B  and 

myself)  as  though  we  would  rather  never  see  an 


150 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


Indian  rancheria  than  stem  the  swiftly  rushing  cur- 
rent ;  but  soon  down  we  went  with  such  a  rush,  we 
could  not  tell  where  we  were  until  the  water  around 
our  feet  caused  us  to  suspect  we  were  really  sink- 
ing. The  river  proved  to  be  higher  than  our  driver 
anticipated,  or  the  wagon  not  as  high,  and  by  the 
means  we  reached  the  opposite  bank  a  wetter,  if 
not  a  wiser  party. 

An  Indian  rancheria  consists  of  a  number  of  huts, 
constructed  of  a  rib-work  or  frame  of  small  poles, 
or  saplings  of  ^  conical  shape,  covered  with  grass, 
straw,  or  tule,  a  species  of  rush,  which  grows  to  the 
height  of  five  or  six  feet.  The  huts  are  sometimes 
fifteen  feet  in  diameter  at  their  bases,  and  the  num- 
ber of  them  grouped  together  vary  according  to 
the  number  of  the  tribe  which  inhabit  them.  The 
Indians  are  generally  well  made,  and  of  good  stat- 
ure, varying  from  five  feet  four  inches  to  five  feet 
ten,  with  strong  muscular  developments.  Their 
hair  is  long,  black,  and  coarse  ;  and  their  skin  is  a 
shade  lighter  than  that  of  a  mulatto.  It  is  univer- 
sally conceded  that  the  California  Indians  possess 
but  few,  if  any,  of  those  nobly  daring  traits  of  char- 
acter which  have  distinguished  the  savage  tribes  of 
the  Atlantic  States,  from  the  days  of  King  Philip 
down  to  the  notorious  Billy  Bowlegs. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


151 


The  extreme  indolence  of  their  nature^  the  squahd 
condition  in  which  they  live,  the  pusilanimity  of 
their  sports,  and  the  general  imbecility  of  their  in- 
tellects, render  them  rather  objects  of  contempt 
than  admiration.  They  are  deficient  in  all  those 
manly  arts  which  have  given  measurable  immor- 
tality to  the  Cherokees.  They  have  none  of  the 
invention  of  the  Sioux,  Pottawatamies,  or  other 
north-western  Indians,  and  are  outwitted  by  the 
cunning  even  of  the  "  Tontos,"  whose  own  self-ap- 
plied  vernacular  assigns  no  higher  rank  in  abori- 
ginal  tradition  than  that  of  fools. 

They  place  entire  dependence  on  nature's  bounty 
for  support.  If  the  crop  of  acorns  fails,  or  the 
mountain  streams  send  not  forth  their  usual  schools 
of  fish,  —  snails,  worms,  roots,  and  insects,  furnish 
food  with  which  they  appease  the  gnawings  of  hun- 
ger. There  is  a  kind  of  grass  in  the  valleys  the 
Indians  eat,  that  is  pleasant  to  the  taste  and  nutri- 
tious. In  the  season  of  this  grass,  I  have  seen 
numbers  of  them  all  out  feeding  like  cattle.  The 
children  all  go  naked.  This  grass  has  a  tendency 
to  increase  their  ordinary  dimensions  ;  and  you  will 
often  hear  it  remarked,  as  one  makes  his  appear- 
ance, "  There  comes  a  little  grass-fed."  We  saw 
them  making  their  acorn  bread  (parn  thej  call 


152 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


bread).  To  render  it  short  and  rich^  tliey  mashed 
up  angle-wormS;  and  put  in  it.  After  baking  it,  — 
which  they  did  by  making  an  excavation  in  the 
earthy  and  building  a  fire  therein ;  when  the  earth 
was  sufficiently  heated,  they  scraped  out  the  ashes, 
put  in  the  bread,  and  covered  it  over  with  hot 
ashes,  —  they  generously  insisted  upon  our  eating 
a  piece.  The  keenness  of  our  appetites  was  con- 
siderably repressed,  however,  by  witnessing  the 
several  employments  of  the  tribe.  One  old  squaw 
was  relieving  her  husband's  head  of  a  score  of  ver- 
min, which  she  ate  with  an  apparent  relish.  She 
practised,  however,  the  principle  of  self-abnegation 
to  perfection,  by  occasionally  tossing  some  of  the 
finest-looking  ones  down  his  throat,  for  which  he 
smacked  his  thanks  with  apparent  zest.  •  The  hair 
on  the  heads  of  the  chiefs  is  all  drawn  up,  and  tied 
in  a  knot  on  the  top  of  the  head,  and  ornamented 
with  feathers.  The  squaws'  heads  look  like  pitch- 
mops  ;  the  hair  is  very  thick,  coarse,  and  black,  and 
cut  square  round  the  head.  No  part  of  the  fore- 
head is  visible ;  the  hair  falls  to  the  eye-brows. 
They  have  jet-black  eyes ;  and  some  of  them  have 
a  decidedly  pleasant  expression  with  the  eye.  The 
Uttle  babies  are  beauties.  Their  mothers  learn 
them  to  swim,  as  soon  as  an  old  duck  does  her 


SCENES  IN  TJIE  PACIFIC. 


153 


young.  They  build  little  pens  at  the  brink  of  the 
river;  so  that  the  current  cannot  carry  them  down 
stream^  put  them  in^  and  keep  them  there  half  the 
time.  They  are  really  amphibious.  They  have  a 
cruel  custom  of  piercing  the  ears  of  their  infants, 
and  inserting  sticks  the  size  of  the  little  finger. 
During  the  process  of  thus  beautifying  their  infants, 
the  whole  side  of  the  head  and  face  is  terribly 
swollen,  and  the  child  must  suffer  inconceivably ; 
but  better  for  them  to  die  in  the  operation  than 
to  live  in  opposition  to  the  prevailing  mode. 

The  longevity  of  the  race  is  proverbial.  We 
saw  some  who  looked  more  like  mummies  than 
living  beings.  They  bring  them  out  of  the  huts, 
and  set  them' in  the  sun,  daysj  and  there  we  saw 
them  sitting,  their  eyelids  drooping  so  you  could 
not  perceive  the  eyeball,  limbs  perfectly  motion- 
less, and  so  shrivelled  and  black  as  to  be  absolutely 
repulsive  to  the  sight.  Some  of  their  limbs  are 
affected  with  a  loathsom^e  cutaneous  disease. 

When  one  of  their  number  dies,  they  consume  , 
the  body  by  fire,  grind  the  bones  to  ashes ;  then 
the  near  relations  mix  these  ashes  with  pitchy  and 
daub  their  heads  and  faces  with  it,  as  a  badge  of 
mourning.  During  this  process,  and  for  several 
consecutive  days  and  nights,  they  keep  up  a  loud 


154 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


hooting  and  howling^  and  render  night  hideous 
with  their  mournful  lamentations.  They  have  large 
gatherings  sometimes  at  their  rancherias^  to  cele- 
brate some  event ;  then  dancing  and  singing,  loud 
shouting  and  howling,  is  continued  without  inter- 
mission the  whole  night.  During  these  orgies,  the 
noise  made  by  them  is  such  as  to  j)revent  sleep, 
although  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant.  Their  council- 
chamber  is  of  sufficient  capacity  to  accommodate 
three  hundred  persons ;  the  entrance  to  which  is 
an  aperture  of  just  sufficient  size  to  admit  a  man's 
body  when  bent  double.  In  the  centre  of  the  roof 
is  another  small  aperture ;  and,  except  by  these  two 
openings,  no  air  or  light  can  be  admitted.  They 
perform  their  singular  dances  in  this  place.  Often 
Americans  go  there  to  witness  these  sports ;  but  a 
few  moments'  confinement  in  such  a  close  place 
generally  suffices.  From  their  burrowing  pro]3en- 
sities,  these  Indians  have  derived  the  name  of 
"  Diggers." 

Their  mode  of  costume  almost  defies  description, 
it  is  so  omnifarious.  Sometimes  they  imitate  the 
style  adopted  by  our  first  parents  in  Paradise.  The 
women  are  especially  delighted  to  get  on  a  man's 
shirt,  in  which  they  will  parade  the  streets  appa- 
rently as  pleased  with  themselves  as  any  fashion- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


155 


able  belle  when  sporting  the  most  costly  fabric. 
I  was  once  exceedingly  amused  at  the  sight  of  an 
Indian  and  his  sqnaw  promenading  the  street^ 
dressed  a  la  mode.  He  sported  a  pair  of  boots^ 
and  an  old,  faded  piece  of  calico  over  his  shoulders, 
as  an  apology  for  a  scrape.  She  was  dressed  in  a 
red  flannel  shirt,  over  which  she  had  drawn  an  old 
black  satin  sack,  which  some  one  had  given  her,  or 
which  she  had  stolen.  Over  their  black  heads  was 
elevated  a  shattered  umbrella,  and  her  arm  was 
placed  within  his.  Immediately  in  advance  of 
them  were  walking  a  very  fashionably  dressed 
gentleman  and  lady.  The  countenances  of  the 
"  Digger  "  and  his  mehala  (an  appellation  given  to 
the  squaws)  were  illuminated  with  a  grin  expres- 
sive of  much  delight,  entertaining,  no  doubt,  the 
satisfactory  belief  that  they  were  equally  as  much 
admired  by  observers  as  those  in  advance  of  them, 
whose  motions  and  walk  they  w^ere  vainly  endeav- 
oring to  imitate.  They  are  inveterate  gamblers ; 
but  I  think  it  would  puzzle  wiser  heads  than  mine 
to  understand  their  games.  They  appear  to  place 
some  value  upon  money,  with  which  they  gratify 
their  gambling  propensities.  They  flock  in  num- 
bers into  the  back  yards  of  hotels,  and  greedily 
devour  all  the  offal  destined  to  be  thrown  to  the 


156 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


hogs.  Sometimes  you  can  induce  them  to  cut  a 
few  sticks  of  wood ;  but^  as  a  general  thing,  they 
are  too  indolent  to  exert  themselves  much. 

The  rivers  abound  in  excellent  salmon,  which 
the  Indians  spear  in  great  numbers,  and  dispose  of 
in  the  towns.  They  are  the  finest  I  ever  tasted. 
Some  of  them  are  three  and  four  feet  long,  and 
weigh  fifty  pounds  or  more.  It  is  amusing  to  see 
the  Indians  spearing  them.  They  stand  in  the 
river  on  rocks  or  shoal  places,  looking  intently 
into  the  water  with  the  spear  elevated,  waiting, 
perfectly  motionless,  for  a  sight  at  one.  Instantly 
the  spear  descends,  and,  as  sure  as  it  does,  it  buries 
itself  in  the  body  of  the  fish.  Their  aim  is  un- 
erring. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

At  this  time  my  husband  was  engaged  in  trans- 
porting goods  to  the  towns  above  Marysville.  He 
kept  his  horses  in  a  shed  at  the  rear  of  our  dwell- 
ing. One  night  we  were  aroused  by  the  cry  of 
"  Fire  ! "  Upon  opening  my  eyes,  the  room  was 
as  light  as  day.    It  appeared  as  if  the  whole  city 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


157 


was  in  a  blaze.  The  flames  were  rapidly  spreading. 
*  Those  hght  wood  and  canvas  buildings  offered  but 
slight  resistance  to  the  fiery  element.    Our  first 
thought  was  of  the  horses  and  wagon^  as  they  were 
of  more  value  than  the  house^  or  all  it  contained, 
j  They  were  given  into  my  charge^  with  instructions 
to  lead  them  away  out  on  the  plains^  and  hold 
;  them  there^  while  they  remained  to  throw  what 
i  few  things  we  possessed  into  the  wagon,  and  drag 
it  off.    The  most  valuable  article  in  the  house  was 
my  side-saddle,  for  which  was  paid  the  sum  of 
'  sixty-five  dollars.    That,  in  their  haste,  was  forgot- 
ten, and  left  in  the  house.    I  had  petted  those 
horses  so  much,  they  would  follow  me  anywhere. 
They  stood  perfectly  quiet  beside  me,  apparently 
I  watching  with  me  the  progress  of  the  fire.  I 
j  expected,  of  course,  our  little  shanty  had  shared 
!  the  fate  of  half  the  buildings  of  the  place.  After 
I  the  fire  had  subsided,  we  returned  to  town ;  and 
there,  sure  enough,  stood  the  little  house  unharmed, 
!  while  all  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  lay  a 
heap  of  ruins.    In  one  week  from  that  time,  very 
nearly  the  same  scene  was  enacted  over  again. 

This  time,  too,  the  canvas  shanty  welcomed  us 
back  again  to  town.  Had  it  been  of  any  value, 
perhaps  it  would  have  shared  the  fate  of  its  neigh- 

14 


158 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


bors ;  but;  valueless  as  it  was^  it  looked  better  to 
me  upon  my  return  than  a  mass  of  smoking  ruins 
in  lieu.  What  oversights  a  person  will  commit 
when  alarmed;  or  agitated  by  the  cry  of  "  Fire  !  " 
One  of  these  nights  I  dressed  myself  hastily^  put 
on  my  dress  (which  fastened  in  front)  hind-side 
before^  and  fastened  every  hook  securely.  Of 
course,  I  never  discovered  my  mistake  until  I  re- 
turned to  the  house.  Soon  after  this,  my  brother 
left  for  the  mines.  When  the  rainy  season  com- 
menced;  our  house  was  a  poor  protection  from  the 
rain.  It  ran  through  the  canvas  roof  as  through 
an  old  sieve.  We  soon  vacated  it,  and  went  to 
the  Oriental  Hotel.  This  building  my  husband 
rented  for  the  sum  of  six  hundred  dollars  per 
month;  furniture  included.  It  was  a  spacious  new 
building,  at  that  time  the  finest  in  the  place.  Our 
expenses  were  eighteen  hundred  dollars  per  month. 
We  employed  three  cooks.  To  our  head  cook  we 
gave  three  hundred  per  month,  and  all  the  other 
domestics  in  a  like  proportion.  To  one  little  boy, 
not  much  higher  than  the  table,  who  was  employed 
to  wait  upon  the  cooks,  clean  knives  and  forks, 
bring  in  wood,  etc.,  we  paid  the  exorbitant  sum  of 
sixty-five  dollars  per  month.  Notwithstanding  our 
expenses  were  so  much,  the  net  profits  were  ample. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


159 


We  had  twenty  and  twenty-five  dollars  per  week 
for  board.  The  house  wds  always  crowded.  While 
we  were  at  the  Oriental  Hotel;  the  city  was  inun- 
dated. Oh;  that  was  indeed  a  gloomy  time !  A 
vast  amount  of  property  was  destroyed^  and  some 
lives  lost.  The  sudden  melting  of  the  snow  in  the 
mountains  swelled  the  mountain  streams  to  rushing 
torrents.  The  most  intense  excitement  prevailed 
in  MarysvillC;  as  the  Tuba  River,  swollen  to  its  ut- 
most capacity,  was  still  rapidly  rising.  What  a 
wildly  rushing,  roaring,  foaming  mass  of  vv^ater  came 
thundering  on !  Higher  and  yet  higher  it  came, 
until  the  plaza  was  fairly  submerged.  Trucks 
were  rushing  to  and  fro,  laden  with  merchandise 
being  conveyed  to  the  upper  part  of  the  city. 
Many  objected  to  leaving  their  houses,  thinking 
the  water  would  abate,  until  they  were  obliged  to 
make  their  egress  through  the  windows,  and  in 
boats  were  taken  to  dry  land.  The  Oriental  fronted 
on  quite  high  land.  At  the  back  was  a  large  base- 
ment, where  was  situated  the  culinary  department, 
also  the  servants'  apartments.  All  this  part  of  the 
building  was  entirely  submerged,  and  the  water 
lacked  but  a  few  inches  of  being  to  the  first  floor. 
Night  was  coming  on,  and  the  water  was  still  rising. 
Fear  and  anxiety  sat  enthroned  upon  the  coimte- 


160 


SCENES  IN  .  THE  PACIFIC. 


nances  of  all.  A  short  time  previous  to  tliis^  there 
had  been  erected  on  the  plaza  two  brick  blocks. 
The  water  undermined  the  foundation  of  these 
buildings^  and  that  night  they  fell  with  a  terrible 
crash.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  convey  to '  the 
minds  of  those  not  present  any  correct  idea  of  the 
gloomy  aspect  of  affairs  during  the  inundation. 
Towards  morning,  the  waters  ceased  to  rise  any 
higher,  yet  did  not  subside  in  the  least.  A  man 
residing  on  a  ranch  about  five  miles  above  Marys- 
ville,  in  attempting  to  save  some  cattle  from  drown- 
ing, was  swept  from  his  horse  by  the  force  of  the 
current,  and  was  borne  down  stream  with  astonish- 
ing rapidity.  He  managed  to  keep  his  head  above 
water,  but  was  unable  to  clutch  at  anything  whereby 
he  might  save  himself  As  he  neared  the  landing 
at  Marysville,  all  the  latent  energy  of  his  being  was 
aroused  to  save  his  life,  as  that  would  be  his  last 
chance.  There  was  a  large  steamer  lying  there, 
made  fast  to  the  big  tree  on  the  plaza.  Any  one 
who  has  visited  Marysville  will  recollect  this  ven- 
erable tree.  Some  of  the  earliest  pioneers  to  this 
place  recognize  it  as  an  old  friend,  under  whose 
protecting  arms  they  have  for  many  nights  sought 
a  shelter.  With  almost  superhuman  exertions,  he 
caught  hold  of  one  of  the  paddle-wheels  of  the 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


161 


steamer^  and  maintained  his  position  nntil  rescued 
by  some  people  who  had  seen  him  struggling  in 
the  water. 

Feather  River^  too^  overflowed  her  banks^  and^  in 
a  south  and  westerly  direction  from  Marysville, 
nothing  could  be  seen  but  one  unbroken  sheet  of 
water.  Many  of  the  smaller  houses  were  washed 
down  stream.  One  couple^  living  on  a  ranch  twenty 
miles  from  Marysville^  on  the  bank  of  Feather 
River,  and  far  from  any  other  habitation^  were  driven 
for  safety  to  the  top  of  a  table.  As  the  water  rose 
higher^  they  were  obliged  to  rise  higher.  It  was  a 
little  bit  of  a  shanty.  They  knocked  a  hole  through 
the  roof;  and  crept  out  thereon.  They  soon  found 
they  must  vamos  from  there ;  so  they  embarked  in 
some  sort  of  a  craft  (tub  or  barrel)^  and  paddled  off 
to  a  little  island.  After  congratulating  themselves 
upon  their  miraculous  escape^  they  found  they  were 
not  the  only  occupants  of  this  island  retreat :  a  big 
grisly  bear  had  preceded  them.  Not  relishing  such 
close  companionship  as  he  seemed  inclined  to  offer, 
they  quickly  beat  a  retreat  to  a  large  tree^  and, 
seated  in  its  topmost  branches,  carefully  guarded 
by  "  Old  Bruin/'  they  passed  twenty-four  gloomy 
hours.  When  assistance  arrived  from  a  neighbor- 
ing ranch;  in  the  shape  of  a  boat  well  manned,  it 
14* 


162 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


was  Bruin's  turn  to  beat  a  retreat^  which  he  did. 
The  frightened^  hungry  couple  were  released  from 
their  perilous  situation. 

My  brother  had  returned  from  the  mines,  and 
was  living  upon  a  ranch  on  the  banks  of  the  Yuba. 
He  swam  his  horse  quite  a  distance  to  save  a  woman 
and  child.  When  he  arrived  at  the  shanty,  they 
were  perched  upon  a  table,  calmly  awaiting  their 
fate. 

The  boats  were  sailing  in  every  direction  about 
the  city ;  and  all  through  the  night  could  be  heard 
the  shrill  cry  of Boat,  ahoy ! "  resounding  far  over 
the  waters.  All  night  long,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Yuba,  sat  a  Spaniard  on  the  ridge-pole  of  his 
house,  at  one  end,  while,  at  the  other  end,  was  a 
big  rat,  each  anxiously  expecting  relief 

Very  gradually  the  waters  began  to  subside ;  but 
it  was  a  week  before  the  city  was  passable  at  all. 
One  small  house  which  was  washed  down  stream, 
and  lodged  some  distance  below,  the  owner  after- 
wards recovered ;  and,  after  placing  it  upon  its  ori- 
ginal site,  he  corralled  if,  for  fear  of  a  similar  acci- 
dent. 

We  kept  the  Oriental  four  or  five  months ;  but 
the  numerous  cares  devolving  upon  me  were  too 
wearing  for  my  constitution.    Could  I  have  been 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


163 


relieved  from  so  much  anxious  solicitude^  we  should 
have  remained  in  the  house  longer.  Now  the  rainy 
season  was  nearly  over^  we  returned  to  our  little 
shanty. 


CHAPTER  XYII. 

About  this  time,  in  company  with  my  brother^  I 
took  a  journey  a  distance  of  eighty  miles  up  the 
Sacramento  River.  The  whole  distance^  the  route 
lay  through  the  most  beautiful  valley  of  which  im- 
agination can  conceive.  It  was  the  season  for  flow- 
erS;  and  in  every  direction  the  most  beautiful  floral 
blossoms  met  the  eye.  Oh^  the  beautiful  ranches 
(farms  we  should  call  them)  that  were  situated  on 
the  banks  of  this  magnificent  stream !  We  passed 
some  fields  of  wheats  containing  five  hundred  acres 
in  one  inclosure.  We  forded  numerous  streams 
which  intercepted  our  course.  We  saw  herds  of 
antelope  boxmding  gracefully  from  our  path.  To 
some  we  got  sufficiently  near  to  see  their  clear^ 
bright^  shining  eyes.  Their  graceful  symmetry  of 
form,  their  agile,  sylph-like  motions,  all  combine  to 


164 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


render  them  one  of  the  most  beautiful  animals  in 
the  country.  The  fawn  of  the  American  deer^  if 
captured  before  the  pretty  white  spots  upon  its 
sides  have  disappeared^  will  follow  its  captor  any- 
where^ if  he  will  first  carry  it  a  little  while  in  his 
arms.  They  are  tlie  perfection  of  grace^  innocence^ 
and  confidence.  Probably  there  is  no  wild  animal 
more  susceptible  of  domestication^  when  taken 
young,  than  the  American  deer. 

We  saw,  too,  the  elk,  in  large  numbers.  Once, 
as  we  were  approaching  a  stream,  there  were  seve- 
ral drinking  therefrom.  As  soon  as  they  perceived 
us,  they  reared  aloft  their  heads,  surmounted  by 
huge  and  stately  antlers,  and  dashed  away  with  ^ 
the  velocity  of  the  wind.    As  we  neared  a  ranch 

belonging  to  Mr.  N  ,  everything  bespoke  the 

wealth  and  prosperity  of  the  ranchholder.  He 
possessed  a  herd  of  one  thousand  horses.  That  day 
they  were  corralled,  for  the  purpose  of  branding 
those  not  already  bearing  the  owner's  mark.  This 
seems  to  me  a  cruel  process,  yet  an  unavoidable 
one  there,  where  so  many  different  people's  stock 
are  running  together  over  the  plains.  They  blind- 
fold the  beast,  and  chain  it  to  a  post  deeply  im- 
bedded in  the  earth.  Then  the  blacksmith  takes 
the  branding-iron,  bearing  the  owner's  stamp,  heats 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


165 


it  red  hot^  and  applies  it  quickly  to  the  shoulder  or 
haunch  of  the  animal.  How  the  seared  hair  and 
hide  smoke !  and  how  the  poor  creature  plunges 
and  rears  with  fright  and  pain !  I  have  too  much 
sympathy  for  the  poor  brutes  ever  to  be  a  ranch- 
holder^  or  the  wife  of  one.    We  dined  at  the  ranch 

of  Mr.  L  .  whose  waving  fields  of  grain^  with 

other  appurtenances^  revealed  in  a  measure  the 
extent  of  his  wealth. 

We  travelled  on  through  elysian  valleys^  until 
we  reached  our  destination.  The  only  objection  a 
person  could  have  to  a  residence  in  these  sunny 
vales  is  the  annoyance  one  is  subjected  to  from 
myriads  of  musquetoes^  which^  at  certain  seasons^ 
swarm  the  country.  I  have  seen  laborers  at  work 
in  the  fi:elds  with  green  veils  tied  to  their  hats^  and 
drawn  down  over  their  faces^  and  fastened  about 
their  necks.    When  we  reached  our  destination 

(the  ranch  of  Mr.  S  )^  I  was  very  much  fatigued ; 

but  that;  in  a  measure^  was  disj)elled  by  the  hearty 

welcome  I  received  from  Mrs.  B  (Mr.  S  's 

daughter);  an  interesting  lady  from  New  York;  who 
arrived  in  the  country  at  the  time  I  did.  Her 
father  was  a  very  wealthy  ranchholder. 

Their  dwelling-house  was  constructed  of  adobe 
brick.    It  was  only  one  story  high;  but  more  than 


166 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


sixty  feet  long.    Mr.  S         employed  a  host  of 

Indians  upon  his  ranch.  The  beautiful  gardens 
and  extensive  fields  of  grain  furnished  convincing 
proofs  of  the  enterprise^  industry^  and  energy  of 
the  proprietor.  Nineteen  years'  salutary  training 
had;  in  a  measure^  eradicated  the  indolent  propen- 
sities inherent  to  the  Digger  race.    Mr.  S  had 

been  a  resident  in  California^  and  on  that  ranch^ 
for  nineteen  long  years.  What  caused  him  to  leave 
his  family  and  native  land;  to  seek  a  home  in  the 
wilds  of  California^  is  unknown  to  me.    But  so  he 

did.    When  he  left  his  home^  Mrs.  B  ^  the 

daughter  then  with  him^  was  a  babe  scarcely  six 
months  old.  During  those  long  years  of  separa- 
tion, the  wife  knew  not  the  whereabouts  of  her 
husband;  or  of  his  existence  even.  His  little 
children  grew  to  man's  and  woman's  estate  in  the 
interim^  never  dreaming  they  had  a  father  in  Cali- 
fornia. Some  were  old  enough  to  recollect  him 
before  his  self-banishment  from  their  presence ;  but 
they  soon  learned  to  speak  of  him  as  one  gone  to 
the  spirit-land. 

One  chill  autumn  eve  in  1850,  might  have  been 
seen  a  man  a  little  past  the  meridian  of  life^  whose 
silvered  locks  and  furrowed  cheeks  gave  evidence 
of  past  griefS;  of  sufferings  that  had  roughly  stirred 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


167 


the  deep  fountains  within^  —  else  the  surface  would 
not  have  been  so  deeply  channelled^  —  standing 
irresolutely  before  the  door  of  a  neat  mansion  in 
New  York  city.  Conflicting  emotions  of  pleasure 
and  of  pain  were  rapidly  crossing  each  other  upon 
his  countenance  ;  and  well  they  -mighty  for  he  was 
standings  after  an  absence  of  nineteen  years^  at  the 
door  of  his  own  house^  desiring,  yet  scarcely  daring, 
to  enter.  He  summoned  courage  to  ring ;  the 
door  opened,  and  he  crossed  the  threshold  of  his 
home,  —  confronted  his  wife  —  how  changed  from 
the  young  and  blooming  woman  he  left  so  long 
ago  !  yet,  the  instant  their  eyes  met,  the  recogni- 
tion was  mutual.  The  little  Bessy  he  left  a  babe, 
was  all  the  child  remaining  at  home.  He  remained 
with  his  Avife  and  child  that  winter ;  but  there 
existed  a  yearning  for  his  home  in  California,  that 
he  vainly  endeavored  to  conquer.  He  must  re- 
turn. Would  his  wife  and  child  go  with  him  ? 
The  daughter  would,  for  she  manifested  unusual 
affection  for  her  father,  so  recently  found.  The 
wife  preferred  to  remain  behind.  In  the  spring, 
father  and  daughter  left  New  York  for  the  home 
in  California.  They  were  unavoidably  detained  at 
Panama.  While  there,  the  daughter  became  ac- 
quainted with  a  young  gentleman  from  her  native 


168 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


city.  He  proposed^  was  accepted,  and  they  were 
united  at  Panama,  before  proceeding  on  their 
voyage.  And  here  they  were  domesticated,  away 
in  the  interior  of  Cahfornia.  They  appeared  to  be 
enjoying  as  much  happiness  as  ever  falls  to  the  lot 
of  mortals.  How  pleasant  it  seemed  to  enter  that 
adobe  building,  and  find  everything  arranged  wdth 
a  neatness  and  regularity  eliciting  admiration.  Mrs. 

B         performed  no  household  duties  herself  She 

had  five  or  six  well-trained  Indian  women  for  house 
servants,  who  labored  hard  for  no  other  remune- 
ration than  their  food  and  raiment.  The  last-men- 
tioned stipulation,  however,  was  easily  complied 
with,  as  they  require  but  very  little  clothing — just 
as  much  as  decency  requires,  and  no  more. 

Mrs.  B-  is  a  lovely  woman,  well  qualified  to 

grace  the  most  refined  and  intelligent  society. 
There  was  a  novelty  and  charm  connected  with 
their  residence  in  that  remote  place,  which  ren- 
dered life  peculiarly  pleasant.  The  extensive  tract 
of  land  which  Mr.  S.  possessed  (since  the  confirma- 
tion of  the  ranch  titles)  has  rendered  him  im- 
mensely wealthy.  Immediately  upon  our  arrival, 
our  horses  were  allowed  to  revel  in  the  luxuries 
of  wild  oats.  They  were  actually  up  to  their  eyes 
in  acres  of  the  nutritious  grain.    After  the  busi- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


169 


ness  which  had  led  us  to  that  remote  place  had 
been  ratified^  we  started  on  our  homeward  journey^ 
with  much  more  extended  views  of  the  agricul- 
tural resources  of  California  than  we  had  hitherto 
enjoyed.  Soon  after  thiS;  my  brother  left  for  dis- 
tant mines. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

Now  came  a  report  to  Marysville  that  rich  dig- 
gings had  been  discovered  at  a  place  designated 
French  Corral^  which  was  about  fifty  miles  from 
Marysville.  This  intelligence  (as  it  ever  does  in 
Cahfornia)  caused  hundreds  of  people^  of  all  classes 
and  professions,  to  rush  simultaneously  to  the  spot 
where  gold  was  so  gratuitously  deposited.  My 
husband  was  desirous  of  going  too  ;  and^  possibly, 
he  might  establish  a  boarding-house  there^  if  the 
prospect  bid  fair.  So  one  morning,  about  a  week 
after  the  tide  of  emigration  had  commenced  flow- 
ing so  rapidly,  we  started,  and  foolishly  too,  in  a 
one-horse  buggy.  It  was  reported  there  was  a 
good  wagon-road  leading  directly  to  the  place. 

But  what  would  be  called  a  good  wagon-road 
15 


170 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


there^  would  be  considered  utterly  impassable  here. 
Neither  my  husband  nor  myself  had  ever  travelled 
in  the  mountains ;  if  we  had  ever  done  so^  no 
doubt  we  should  have  possessed  wisdom  enough  to 
have  taken  the  journey  upon  mules  —  decidedly 
the  best  mode  of  conveyance  in  the  Sierra  Nevada 
region.    Early  one  morn  in  the  month  of  June^ 
we  left  the  town  of  Marysville^  long  before  the 
inhabitants  had  awakened  from  their  drowsy  slum- 
berS;  and  pursued  our  course  in  a  north-easterly 
direction,  following  the  course  of  the  Yuba,  cross- 
ing and  recrossing  it  several  times  during  the  day. 
About  twenty  miles  from  town,  we  struck  the  low 
hills  (as  they  are  termed)  of  the  vast  and  gigantic 
Sierra  Nevada  range.    Low  hills !  thought  I.  I 
should  call  them  mountains,  and  higher  ones,  too, 
than  I  had  ever  dreamed  of  travelling  over.  Rec- 
ollect, kind  reader,  I  had  been  reared  away  down 
on  Cape  Cod,  where  there  are  only  a  few  slight 
elevations,  justly  denominated  sand-banks.  After 
reaching  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  (I  suppose  I  must 
call  it  so,  but  it  would  suit  my  ideas  better  to  say 
mountain,)  the  wheels  were  chained,  preparatory 
to  a  descent.    How  my  heart  beat,  and  how  I 
wished  myself  back  again,  before  we  reached  the 
base  !    It  was  one  of  my  pet  horses  that  drew  us, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


171 


and  I  knew  he  was  perfectly  gentle  j  but  oh,  how 
I  pitied  him  ! 

How  entirely  different  was  the  scenery  now  from 
that  enjoyed  when  traversing  the  beautiful  valley 
of  the  Sacramento  a  short  time  previous  !  and  yet 
in  what  close  proximity  these  different  sections 
lay !    I  could  scarcely  realize  that  I  had  not  trav- 
elled thousands  of  miles,  to  reach  a  country  so 
very  dissimilar.    After  one  becomes  accustomed 
to  mountain  travel,  I  know  not  to  which  of  these 
decidedly  dissimilar  landscapes  the  lover  of  nature 
would  yield  the  palm.    After  overcoming  in  part 
the  emotions  of  fear^  I  was  perfectly  entranced  at 
beholding  the  lofty  mountains  towering  far  above 
us,  their  sides  and  summits  timbered  with  large 
pines,  firs,  and  cedars.    And  then  how  quiet  and 
lovely  looked  those  little  valleys,  so  hidden  and 
enclosed  from  the  world,  completely  hemmed  in 
by  the  grand  and  sublime  elevations  of  nature's 
most  magnificent  handiwork  !    Oh,  what  dark  and 
gloomy-looking  defiles  were  disclosed  to  view !  — 
fit  rendezvous  for  the  sanguinary  assassin,  or  the 
dark-skinned  treacherous  savage.    An  involuntary 
shudder  ran  through  my  frame,  as  we  wended  our 
way  through  these  silent  mountain  recesses. 

I  half-expected,  every  moment,  to  hear  the  whiz- 


172 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


zing  of  an  Indian  arrow  past  my  ear^  or  the  sharp 
dick  of  the  murderer's  revolver.  We  were  well 
armed;  for  it  was  dangerous  to  travel  in  those 
mountains  unarmed.  But  I  very  much  doubted 
my  ability^  so  far  as  regarded  courage^  to  use  any 
weapon^  (except  woman's  weapon^)  even  in  self- 
defence.  Often^  as  you  enter  one  of  these  little 
valleyS;  your  eyes  will  be  greeted  with  the  sight 
of  a  little  shanty.  Sometimes  they  call  these 
mountain-glens  corrals ;  and  certainly  they  are 
corralled  in  by  almost  impervious  barriers.  One, 
in  particular,  arrested  my  attention.  This  valley 
was  of  an  emerald  green.  Through  it  ran  a  clear, 
gurgling  mountain-stream,  the  music  of  its  waters 
inviting  the  weary  wayfarer  to  sip  of  the  health- 
promoting  beverage.  (I  regret  to  add,  at  that 
time  in  California  the  health-inspiring  properties 
of  pure,  unadulterated  cold  water  were  seldom 
tested.)  Several  cattle  and  mules  were  nibbling 
the  green  grass.  But  the  prettiest  feature  of  all, 
in  my  estimation,  was  an  intelligent,  bright-eyed 
little  woman,  seated  just  outside  the  door,  under 
the  shade  of  a  magnolia,  with  a  smiling,  rosy  little 
baby  in  her  arms.  I  was  out  of  the  buggy  in  an 
instant,  and  had  the  little  darling  in  my  arms. 
There  wc  obtained  refreshments.    There  was  quite 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


173 


a  history  connected  ydth  this  bright-eyed  woman, 
which  I  afterwards  learned,  and  will  relate,  if  my 
readers  will  pardon  the  episode.  It  may  perhaps 
interest  them  as  much  in  the  recital  as  it  did  me. 

We  will  now  glance  back  through  many  years  to 
the  innocent  days  of  childhood  —  to  this  lady's 
pleasant  home  on  the  banks  of  the  lovely  Connec- 
ticut. Not  far  from  the  shores  of  the  Sound,  which 
receives  its  limpid  waters,  stood  a  quaint,  old-fashion- 
ed farm-house  ;  and  there  she  passed  the  spring-time 
of  youth.  On  an  adjacent  farm  dwelt  another 
happy  family.  Not  a  day  passed  but  the  children 
of  these  respective  families  had  met,  and  raced  and 
tumbled  about,  in  all  the  v/ild  joy  of  freedom  and 
of  health ;  now  paddling  on  the  smooth  surface  of 
the  glassy  river,  or  scrambling  among  thorns  and 
briers  in  those  old  woods,  after  violets  and  nuts^ 
knowing  no  restraint,  or  recognizing  none,  save 
their  parents'  love.  When  she  was  about  twelve 
years  of  age,  her  father  conceived  the  idea  of  emi- 
grating to  the  Western  wilds. 

Then  those  children,  who  had  lived,  and  loved, 
and  played  together  so  long,  must  separate.  The 
heroine  of  my  story,  and  a  lad  a  few  years  her  se- 
nior, belonging  to  the  other  fomily,  had,  almost  un- 
consciously, as  it  were,  conceived  and  cherished  an 

15^ 


174 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


almost  undying  friendship  for  each  other ;  the 
strength  and  ardor  of  which  the  parents  httle  sus- 
pected. After  an  interchange  of  many  little  love- 
tokens,  the  lad  placed  a  hair  ring,  of  curious  work- 
manship, upon  the  girl's  finger,  with  the  solemn  in- 
junction never  to  part  with  it,  and  that,  when  he 
grew  to  be  a  man,  he  would  seek  her  for  his  bride ; 
and  so  they  parted.  Upon  their  arrival  in  the 
Western  country,  the  father  located  himself,  mth 
his  family,  at  or  near  Nauvoo  city.  Subsequently, 
he  joined  the  Mormons,  and  resided  many  years  at 
this  place.  About  the  time  the  tide  of  emigration 
commenced  flowing  to  the  golden  shores  of  the 
Pacific,  he  put  in  execution  the  secretly  cherished 
plan  of  removing  with  his  family  to  Great  Salt 
Lake  city. 

In  vain  our  heroine  —  now  grown  to  a  lovely 
and  interesting  woman  —  sought  to  deter  her  father 
from  consummating  this  long-cherished  plan  of  re- 
moval to  the  city  of  Zion.  We  can  conjecture  how 
much  she  was  influenced  in  adopting  such  a  course 
by  the  knowledge  which  she  had  recently  obtained 
that  the  lover  of  her  youth,  to  whom  she  had,  in 
defiance  of  oft-repeated  solicitations  to  the  contrary, 
ever  proved  faithful,  was  about  to  seek  her  for  a 
fulfilment  of  his  boyish  pledge.    Her  father  was 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


175 


inexorable  :  he  was  determined  upon  going,  and  his 
favorite  daughter  must  accompany  them.  The 
mother's  pleadings^  too^  could  not  be  resisted.  They 
started.  The  mother's  healthy  previously  enervated^ 
after  six  weeks'  toilsome  travel  across  the  plains^ 
began  visibly  to  decline.  With  intense  anxiety^ 
each  succeeding  day^  they  watched  the  paling  cheek 
and  tremulous  motions  of  the  wife  and  mother. 
Their  worst  fears  were  realized.  One  calm^  still, 
moonlight  eve,  they  consigned  to  a  lonely  grave 
the  remains  of  the  loved  one.  She  had  emigrated, 
to  her  last  peaceful  home.  Never  more  w^ould  she 
be  called  upon  to  resume  her  toilsome  march  across 
the  plains  of  this  sublunary  sjohere.  The  family 
now  consisted  of  the  widowed  husband,  the  daugh- 
ter, and  a  little  girl,  the  offspring  of  a  younger 
daughter,  who  had  deceased  several  years  previous 
to  this  last  emigration,  and,  being  a  wddow,  had  be- 
queathed her  only  child  to  its  grand-parents.  Little 
Rosa  was  a  joyous,  light-hearted  child,  possessed  of 
strong  affections.  The  rich  wealth  of  love  she  had 
bestowed  upon  the  grandmother  had  often  caused 
the  tears  of  that  fond  parent  to  flow  at  the  thought 
of  the  bitter  sorrow  in  store  for  the  httle  darling, 
when  she  should  have  departed  to  her  long  home. 
The  grief  of  the  child  under  this  affliction  was 


176 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


deep  and  lasting.  Never  more  was  her  sweet  voice 
heard  in  unison  with  the  feathered  songsters^  ca- 
rolling her  sweetest  songs  all  the  live-long  day. 
Whenever  they  encamped^  she  would  wander  forth^ 
and  gather  the  prairie-roses,  of  which  she  begged 
her  aunt  to  make  for  her  a  pillow.  Upon  this  little 
pillow  of  roses  every  night  she  rested  her  tired 
head,  covered  with  flaxen  curls.  One  night,  she 
complained  of  being  unusually  tired,  and  said,  Oh, 
aunty,  where  is  my  rosy  pillow  ?  That  will  cure 
me."  In  the  morning,  they  found  her  in  a  raging 
fever,  from  which  she  never  recovered.  In  two 
weeks  from  the  time,  she  wept  inconsolably  at  "the 
grave  of  her  grandmother ;  she  had  gone  to  join  her 
in  the  spirit-land.  They  laid  her  in  her  little  grave, 
with  the  pillow  of  roses  under  her  head,  and  re- 
sumed their  gloomy  march. 

In  less  than  one  week  from  this  second  bereave- 
ment, while  fording  a  river,  the  father  lost  his  life. 
Thus  was  the  daughter  left  alone,  the  last  of  her 
family.  She  continued  her  journey  with  the  com- 
pany, and  arrived  safely  at  Salt  Lake  city.  Here 
another  trial  awaited  her.  She  had  not  been  long 
there,  before  the  great  prophet,  Brigham  Young, 
selected  her  to  swell  the  list  of  his  spiritual  wives, 
of  whom  at  that  time  there  were  about  thirty. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


177 


Her  heart  revolted  at  the  idea  of  such  a  destiny, 
and  she  resolved  upon  speedy  flight.  A  company 
of  emigrants,  bound  to  California,  were  encamped  a 
short  distance  from  the  city.  Thither  she  secretly 
directed  her  steps,  told  her  story,  was  admitted  into 
the  company,  and  conveyed  to  California.  Upon 
her  arrival  there,  she  was  engaged  as  an  assistant 
in  a  hotel,  where  she  remained  nearly  a  year. 

One  night,  the  occupants  of  this  hotel  were 
aroused  by  the  appalling  cry  of  Fire ! "  in  their 
midst.  The  building  was  in  a  blaze.  Every  one 
was  rushing  to  obtain  egress.  At  such  a  time,  woe 
to  those  prostrate^d  upon  a  bed  of  sickness !  The 
shrieks  of  a  sick  man  arrested  the  rapid  steps  of 
this  woman,  flying  for  safety  from  the  devouring 
element.  Many  had  rushed  past,  unmindful  of  his 
call  for  succor,  intent  only  on  self-preservation ;  but 
the  kind  heart  of  woman  could  not  resist  this  touch- 
ing appeal  to  her  sympathies.  She  caught  him  in 
her  arms,  (for  he  was  reduced  to  a  mere  skeleton, 
from  intense  suffering,)  and  rushed  forth,  just  in 
time  to  escape  the  falling  timbers.  By  the  assist- 
ance of  another  person,  the  sick  man  was  conveyed 
to  comfortable  quarters,  where  every  attention  was 
rendered  him  by  the  lady  who  had  preserved  his 
life  on  that  eventful  night.    Owing  to  extreme 


178 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


excitement  in  his  then  weak  state^  a  violent  dehrium 
ensued^  which  continued  for  many  days.  None 
knew  the  sufferer^  or  from  whence  he  came.  Upon 
his  restoration  to  reason^  as  his  kind  nurse  was 
proffering  to  him  a  glass  of  water^  he  suddenly  sank 
back  upon  his  pillow  in  a  fainting  fit.  When  con- 
sciousness was  once  more  restored^  he  could  only 
point  to  a  hair  ring  upon  the  lady's  finger,  and  arti- 
culate her  name.  Thus  these  lovers  met,  after  a 
separation  of  nearly  eighteen  years.  An  explana- 
tion ensued,  by  which  she  learned  that  he  had 
traced  and  followed  her  across  the  plains  to  Salt 
Lake  city.  There  he  lost  all  clue  to  her  where- 
abouts. Disappointed  and  sick  at  heart,  he  pursued 
his  way  to  California ;  went  to  the  mines,  and 
worked  awhile,  and  was  there  taken  sick.  He 
managed  to  get  to  the  hotel  the  day  preceding  the 
fire.  The  rest  may  be  imagined  by  the  situation 
in  which  I  described  her,  as  first  seen  by  me  upon 
entering  that  lovely  valley.  Truly,  truth  is  stranger 
than  fiction ;  and  romance  dwindles  into  insignifi- 
cance, when  contrasted  with  thrilling  realities. 

Now  I  will  proceed  on  our  journey.  I  regretted 
to  leave  that  beautiful  spot,  so  rural,  so  retired,  so 
far  from  the  busy  haunts  of  man.  It  had  such  a 
serene  aspect,  it  seemed  to  me  to  be  one  of  the 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


179 


sweetest  havens  of  rest  that  God  ever  provided  for 
life's  weary  pilgrim.  We  travelled  on  until  we 
reached  another  valley^  equally  as  rich  in  nature's 
adornments ;  but  its  verdant  soil  had  been  recently 
saturated  with  the  blood  of  three  prospecting 
miners.  Their  bodies  had  been  found  pierced  with 
arrows^  besides  being  cut  and  mangled  in  a  horri- 
ble manner.  Some  Indians  near  by  were  suspected 
of  committing  the  murder.  Consequently  a  num- 
ber of  miners  had  assembled^  and,  in  order  to 
intimidate  the  tribe,  had  taken  three  Indians,  and 
huixg  them  on  the  limb  of  a  tree  near  by  the  scene 
of  the  murder.  As  we  approached,  we  noticed 
with  some  anxiety  the  unusual  collection  of  so 
many  miners.  Very  soon  the  occasion  of  such  an 
assemblage  became  apparent.  There,  on  a  single 
limb,  were  suspended  the  dead  bodies  of  three 
Indians.  One  glimpse  was  sufficient.  I  can  see 
them  now,  their  swarthy,  distorted  visages  em- 
blematic of  revenge  and  treachery. 

Finally  we  came  to  a  little  mountain  town  called 
Bridgeport.  It  consisted  of  three  little  shanties 
and  a  toll-bridge,  which  spanned  the  Tuba  River. 
The  setting  sun  was  just  gilding  the  tops  of  the 
surrounding  mountains,  as  we  halted  in  front  of 
one  of  the  dwellings  to  inquire  the  distance  to 


180 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


French  Corral.  They  informed  us  it  was  about  five 
miles.  They  told  us  there  was  a  pretty  high 
mountain  just  beyond^  and  advised  us  to  discon- 
tinue our  journey  for  that  night.  They  seemed  so 
particularly  solicitous  for  us  to  remain  all  night, 
their  shanty  was  so  filthily  dirty,  and  they  them- 
selves were  such  savage,  hirsute-looking  objects, 
that  I  entreated  my  husband  to  go  on.  I  thought, 
out  of  two  evils,  we  were  choosing  the  least  by 
proceeding.  I  came  to  a  difierent  conclusion,  how- 
ever, before  we  reached  our  destination.  My  hus- 
band paid  one  dollar  and  a  half  toll,  and  we  crossed 
a  high  bridge,  under  which  rolled  the  Yuba.  At 
this  place,  it  was  a  rapidly  rushing  stream.  It 
went  foaming  and  dashing  over  innumerable  rocks 
which  intercepted  its  progress,  overleaping  every 
barrier,  acknowledging  no  superior  power.  Un- 
ceasingly it  rolled  on  its  course,  its  waters  mingling 
with  those  of  her  sister  rivers,  and  all  tending  to 
one  point,  viz.,  the  broad  Pacific. 

Directly  after  crossing  the  Yuba,  we  commenced 
the  toilsome  ascent  of  the  highest  mountain  we 
had  yet  encountered.  At  the  commencement  of 
the  ascent,  my  husband  alighted  to  walk  up  the 
mountain,  and  I  was  to  drive  up.  The  poor  horse 
started  with  all  the  energy  he  possessed,  in  the 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


181 


hope^  I  suppose^  of  speedily  gaining  the  top.  I 
quickly  lost  sight  of  my  husband^  who  was  trudging 
on  in  the  vain  hope  of  overtaking  ine.  Soon  I 
began  to  perceive  evident  signs  of  exhaustion  in 
the  horse.  I  tried  to  stop  hira^  but  could  not.  The 
buggy  drew  back  so^  that^  if  he  attempted  to  stop^ 
it  drew  him  back  too.  And  oh^  what  an  awful 
road  it  was !  Deep  gullies  worn  by  streams  of 
water^  which  had  flowed  down  when  the  snow  had 
melted^  deep  enough  to  hide  myself  in  !  I  tried 
several  times  to  get  the  carriage  crosswise  the 
road;  but  could  not^  on  account  of  those  gullies  and 
huge  rocks. 

I  was  fearful;  every  moment^  the  horse  would 
fall;  from  utter  exhaustion.  He  was  covered  with 
white  foam;  and  his  tongue  was  extended  from  his 
mouth.  I  screamed  for  my  husband  at  the  top  of 
my  voice  ;  but  he  was  puffing  and  blowing  far 
down  the  mountain.  I  finally  contrived  to  get  the 
carriage  wedged  in  between  two  ^rocks.  I  then 
got  out;  and  went  to  the  relief  of  the  horse.  Poor 
fellow!  I  thought  he  was  dying,  for  some  time. 
When  my  husband  appeared  in  sight;  his  appear- 
ance betokened  about  as  great  exhaustion  as  the 
horse.  After  a  good  rest;  we  all  proceeded  up;  I 
on  foot  too.  Three  or  four  times  I  threw  myself 
16 


182 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


on  the  ground  in  utter  exhaustion.  We  could  not 
proceed  as  leisurely  as  we  would^  had  night  not 
been  so  close  upon  us.  The  summit  was  reached  ; 
and  what  a  magnificent  view  greeted  my  wonder- 
ing vision  !  The  road  wound  round  the  mountain 
near  the  top.  The  sides  of  the  mountain  had  been 
cut  down^  and  a  very  good  level  road  formed,  of 
just  sufficient  width  for  only  one  carriage  to  pass 
round  at  a  time.  A  horn^  which  is  found  at  each 
termination  of  this  narrow  pass^  is  loudly  sounded 
by  travellers^,  before  entering  on  the  road^  as  a 
warning  of  their  approach.  The  distance  from  this 
road  down  an  almost  perpendicular  descent  was 
one  thousand  feet ;  and  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain rolled  the  foaming  waters  of  the  Yuba  River. 
Yet  from  that  dizzy  height  it  had  the  appearance 
of  a  white  ribbon  no  wider  than  your  hand.  The 
outside  wheels  of  the  buggy  ran  within  three  feet 
of  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  Nothing  could  induce 
me  to  ride  (even  with  our  gentle  horse)  in  such 
close  proximity  to  the  frightful  chasm.  My  hus- 
band jumped  in  and  rode  around^  while  I  went 
plodding  along,  almost  ankle-deep  in  the  red  sand. 
Presently  I  heard  voices  behind.  I  turned  to  look^ 
and  there,  a  few  paces  behind  me,  were  two  dark, 
swarthy,  bewhiskered  individuals^  each  mounted  on 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


183 


a  fine  mule^  and  one  of  them  was  leading  a  spare 
mule.  What  to  do  I  did  not  know.  There  I  was^ 
alone^  wallowing  in  the  sand^  my  bonnet  ofF^  hair 
dishevelled^  face  the  color  of  vermilion^  and  dress 
the  color  of  the  sand.  Who  or  what  I  was,  or  how 
I  came  there  on  foot^  I  suppose  was  beyond  their 
comprehension. 

When  they  overtook  me^  one  said,  Good  eve- 
ning, madam ;  this  is  a  hard  road  to  travel  over 
Jordan."  To  this  I  made  no  reply.  Said  the 
other,  Wont  you  ride  ?  you  look  tired."  I  told 
him  there  was  a  carriage  waiting  for  me  just  round 
the  mountain.  So  they  rode  on.  Soon  I  found 
my  husband  waiting  for  me.  I  quickly  accepted 
his  invitation  to  ride,  for  I  feared  meeting  with 
other  adventures,  which  might  not  terminate  so 
pleasantly.  We  travelled  on,  expecting  to  reach 
the  corral  every  moment.  There  were  no  more 
such  high  elevations  on  our  route  as  the  last  we 
had  surmounted ;  but  there  were  a  plenty  high 
enough,  I  assure  you. 

But  for  the  brilliant  rays  of  the  queen  of  night, 
we  should  have  been  compelled  to  encamp  in  the 
mountains.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  grandeur 
and  sublimity  of  these  mountain-giens  and  canons, 
walled  in  by  those  grand  and  lofty  mountains. 


184 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


and  lighted  by  the  brilliant  and  powerful  rays  of 
the  moon^  and  the  sparkling  radiance  of  the  starry 
host;  glittering  like  so  many  diamonds  in  the  deep- 
blue  canopy  of  the  heavens.  Their  desolation  is 
mellowed ;  an  air  of  purity  and  holiness  seems  to 
pervade  those  silent  places^  which  leads  the  imagi- 
nation to  picture  them  as  grand  saloons  of  nature^ 
fashioned  by  the  hand  of  the  Almighty  for  the 
residence  of  pure  and  uncontaminating  substances^ 
and  not  for  the  doomed  children  of  passion,  want, 
care,  and  sorrow. 

About  ten  in  the  evening,  we  made  our  descent 
into  the  valley  bearing  the  name  of  French  Corral. 
We  were  perfectly  astonished  at  beholding  such  a 
collection  of  canvas  houses  —  large  frame  boarding- 
houses  and  hotels,  brilliantly  lighted  gambling- 
saloons  without  number,  and  Spanish  dance-houses, 
French  cafes,  drinking-saloons,  etc.,  etc. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  to  state  here  the  manner 
of  building  frame-houses,  when  the  time  occupied 
in  building  was  two  days  for  a  private  dwelling, 
four  days  for  a  hotel,  and  six  days  for  a  church. 
The  last  mentioned,  however,  was  not  often  raised. 
A  building  would  boast  of  a  very  slight  frame,  not 
boarded,  but  split  clapboard  nailed  on  to  the  frame, 
and  the  outside  was  finished.    Upon  the  inside,  in 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


185 


lieu  of  laths  and  plastering,  bleached  or  unbleached 
cotton  cloth  is  stretched  smoothly  and  tightly,  and 
fastened  to  the  frame.  This  cloth  is  then  papered 
over,  and  it  looks  as  nice  as  paper  upon  plastering. 
The  ceiling  overhead  is  nice  bleached  cloth,  sewed 
together  neatly,  and  stretched  so  tightly  there  is 
not  a  wrinkle  observable.  For  partitions  a  frame 
is  raised,  and  each  side  of  this  frame  is  cloth  and 
paper,  leaving  a  hollow  space  between  the  two  par- 
titions of  cloth,  about  three  or  four  inches  in  width. 
These  partitions  look  as  firm  and  solid  as  they  do 
made  the  usual  way ;  but  they  afford  but  a  slight 
hindrance  to  the  passage  of  sounds.  These  decep- 
tive partitions  have  been  accessory  to  the  diffusion 
of  many  a  momentous  secret. 

Begging  pardon  for  this  digression,  I  will  proceed 
with  the  description  of  this  speedily-rushed-into- 
existence  mining  town.  We  were  directed  to  the 
California  Hotel,  as  one  capable  of  rendering  the 
best  accommodations.  Thither  we  accordingly 
went,  and  received  a  hearty  reception.  Every  at- 
tention benighted,  tired  travellers  could  reasonably 
require,  was  cheerfully  conferred.  Next  morning, 
we  rose  from  our  couches  of  straw,  rather  lame,  to 
be  sure,  but  anxious,  nevertheless,  to  reconnoitre 
the  town.  We  first  repaired  to  the  mines.  There 
16^^ 


186 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


were  over  one  thousand  miners  at  work  in  a  gulcli 
surrounded  by  towering  mountains^  which  shot  up 
almost  perpendicularly  over  their  heads.  The  frosts 
of  spring  tarry  latest  in  those  gulches^  and  the 
genial  rays  of  the  winter  sun  penetrate  but  occa- 
sionally to  cheer  the  miner  in  his  arduous  toil. 

It  is  difficult,  after  all  the  descriptions  he  may 
read,  for  any  one  who  has  not  been  in  the  mines  to 
obtain  any  correct  idea  of  the  manner  in  which 
they  are  worked,  or  of  the  difficulties  and  singular 
vicissitudes  in  life  to  which  the  miner  is  exposed. 
If  the  miner  be  dependent  upon  others  for  his 
water  by  paying  for  it  weekly,  success  demands 
that  he  should  be  an  early  riser.  Before  the  first 
dawn  of  light  breaks  upon  the  sky  above  him,  he 
opens  his  eyes,  rolls  over  on  his  hard  bed,  stretches 
his  stiffened  limbs,  and,  feeling  about  for  his  boots, 
places  his  hand  upon  something  resembling  an 
icicle,  into  which  his  feet  are  thrust,  and  the  labors 
of  the  day  commenced.  He  kindles  his  fire,  (that 
is,  if  he  boards  himself,)  fills  and  sets  on  the  coffee- 
pot, fries  his  "  flap-jacks "  and  his  pork,  or  warms 
up  his  beans,  and  the  morning  repast  is  prepared. 
It  is  then  quickly  eaten ;  and,  by  the  time  it  is  day- 
light, the  miner  is  beside  his  tom.  The  water  is  let 
on,  and  in  half  an  hour's  time  he  is  standing  ankle- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


187 


deep  in  it,  while^  every  few  minutes^  a  dash  of  it  is 
accidentally  sprinkled  upon  his  back.  A  hard  day's 
work  of  this  kind  is  not  unfrequently  closed  by  the 
paltry  reward  of  one^  two^  or  three  dollars^  to  be 
divided  between  the  last  named  number  of  men. 
And  this  approximates^  more  nearly  than  all  other 
histories^  to  the  truth  of  mining.  The  "  big  strikes  " 
are  always  heard  of  first,  because  the  good  news  is 
published,  while  the  bad  is  deemed  worthy  of  no 
such  distinction.  From  this  cause  thousands  of 
people  meet  with  disappointment,  and  write  back 
to  their  Atlantic  friends,  reviling  a  country  the 
noblest  for  its  climate,  soil,  and  business  advantages, 
of  any  under  the  broad  canopy  of  heaven. 

The  success  of  the  miner  depends  a  great  deal 
upon  luck.  He  may  be  industrious,  economical, 
possessed  of  good  morals,  labor  perseveringly  for 
months,  and  sometimes  years,  and  still  be  poor,  as 
far  as  the  acquisition  of  gold  is  concerned ;  Vy^hile, 
perhaps,  an  unprincipled  spendthrift  in  a  few  months 
may  realize  a  fortune.  A  claim,  too,  may  prospect 
rich,  and  yet,  upon  working  it,  yield  scarcely  suffi- 
cient to  defray  the  expenses.  Sometimes,  also, 
adjoining  claims  which  prospect  alike  may  prove, 
one  rich,  and  the  other  poor.  I  knew  one  fellow 
who  had  worked  three  weeks  upon  his  claim,  and 


188 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


had  not  realized  enough  to  pay  his  board.  He  be- 
came disheartened^  and  sold  out  to  a  green-horn/' 
whO;  in  the  interval  of  six  weeks^  took  out  over 
three  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  the  yellow  metal. 
I  knew  another^  too^  who  labored  hard  three  years 
in  the  country,  without  any  more  than  defraying 
his  expenses,  when  he  was  fortunate  enough  to 
strike  a  pocket/'  from  which  he  took  out  twenty 
thousand  dollars.    But  here  I  am  digressing  again. 

We  found,  upon  walking  about  the  town,  that 
nearly  every  other  building  w^as  a  boarding-house. 
So  much  competition  had  reduced  board  to  twelve 
dollars  per  week,  which  would  not  pay,  considering 
the  fact  of  having  to  pay  six  cents  per  pound  freight 
for  the  transportation  of  provisions  from  Marysville ; 
so  my  husband  relinquished  the  idea  of  opening  a 
house  there,  and  decided  to  return  to  Marysville  on 
the  following  day.    That  night,  there  was  to  be  a 

grand  ball  at  the  Corral ;  and  Mrs.  R  ,  the  wife 

of  the  gentleman  who  kept  the  house  where  we 
stopped,  was  very  anxious  for  me  to  accompany 
her  to  witness  the  proceedings.  Accordingly,  in 
the  course  of  the  evening,  we  stepped  in,  as  silent 
spectators  of  the  festive  scene.  I  was  rather  sur- 
prised at  beholding  such  a  recherche  assemblage. 
By  the  appearance  of  the  company,  I  should  not 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


189 


have  suspected  that  we  were^  figuratively  speaking, 
in  the  bowels  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains.  A 
long  artificial  bower  had  been  constructed,  under 
which  were  spread  the  tables,  loaded  with  delicious 
viands.  There  were  turkeys,  which  at  that  period 
could  not  be  purchased  for  less  than  twenty-five 
dollars  apiece ;  and  pigs,  too,  which  were  equally 
as  scarce  in  the  market.  There  were  jellies  and 
East  India  preserves  temptingly  displayed,  also  the 
refreshing  ice-cream.  Beautiful  bouquets  graced 
the  tables.  These  flowers  had  been  gathered  in 
close  proximity  to  snow.  Sixteen  miles  distant, 
farther  up  in  the  mountains,  was  plenty  of  ice  then ; 
and  there  was  a  Frenchman  at  the  Corral  —  from 
whom  the  place  derived  its  name  —  who  kept  quite 
a  number  of  cows;  so  that  ice  and  cream  were 
very  easily  obtained. 

Here,  fifty  miles  from  the  settlements,  were  con- 
vened a  collection  of  gentlemen  and  ladies,  who  had 
come,  some  ten,  some  twenty,  and  some  thirty 
miles,  to  join  in  the  merry  daijpe.  I  saw  two  Bos- 
tonians  there.  It  was  a  select  company :  all  gam- 
blers were  excluded. 

After  having  regaled  ourselves  with  some  refresh- 
ments, which  the  polite  and  gentlemanly  host  in- 
sisted upon  our  partaking,  we  took  our  leave,  as, 


190 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACmC. 


the  ensuing  morning  early^  we  were  to  start  on  our 
homeward  journey. 

It  is  a  peculiar  feature  of  the  climate  in  Califor- 
nia; that;  as  soon  as  the  snow  disappears  from  the 
earth;  the  flowers  spring  up  spontaneously.  There 
is  no  frost  in  the  ground;  and  the  heavy  body  of 
snow  lying  thereon  serves  to  keep  it  warm.  While 
at  the  Corral;  I  was  presented  with  an  elegant  bou- 
quet; which  a  gentleman  told  me  he  gathered  be- 
tween two  snow-bankS;  in  such  close  proximity  to 
each  other,  that;  with  his  arms  extended;  he  could 
reach  the  snow  on  either  side.  The  rising  sun^ 
next  morning;  found  us  at  the  top  of  that  high 
mountain;  very  near  the  spot  where  he  bade  us 
adieu  on  our  journey  up. 

Neither  ourselves  nor  the  horse  were  as  fatigued 
as  when  we  made  the  ascent ;  therefore;  it  did  not 
appear  half  as  formidable ;  yet  I  preferred  being 
upon  my  feet.  It  was  really  frightful  to  look  at 
the  horse  and  buggy.  The  wheels  were  both 
chained :  yet  how  the  poor  horse  had  to  brace  his 
feet  at  every  step !  was  on  this  same  mountain, 
the  following  August;  as  a  party  of  emigrants;  who 
travelled  across  the  plainS;  were  descending  in  an 
ox-team;  the  wagon  pitch-poled;  distributing  the 
contents  (which  consisted  of  a  woman  and  two  or 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


191 


three  children^  cooking-stove^  and  many  othei^ 
household  utensils)  in  every  direction. 

When  we  reached  Bridgeport^  we  were  accosted 
by  the  toll-gatherer  with  Well^  I  reckon  as  how 
you  had  a  right  smart  heap  of  trouble  that  nighty 
afore  you  reached  the  top  of  the  mountain.  I 
allowed  you  would  be  for  turning  back ;  but  I  have 
always  heard  say,  them  Yankee  women  never  would 
give  up  beat."  How  he  knew  I  was  a  Yankee,  was 
beyond  my  comprehension ;  for  he  did  not  hear  me 
speak,  as  I  recollect  of  Must  be  my  countenance 
was  the  index  of  the  nation  to  which  I  belonged ; 
and  I  believe  it  does  speak  Yankee  as  well  as  my 
tongue ;  for  I  was  never  taken  for  anything  else^ 
except  once  . 

We  met  with  no  adventure  particularly  worth  re- 
lating on  our  homeward  journey.  When  we  descend- 
ed again  to  the  foot  of  the  hills,  they  really  seemed 
clipped  of  nearly  one-half  their  altitude  since  I  had 
passed  over  them.  I  was  also  surprised  at  the 
wonderful  amount  of  courage  I  had  acquired  during 
the  trip.  Now  I  laughed  at  travelling  over  those 
hills  I  before  had  cried  at.  That  night,  the  little 
canvas  house  received  within  its  walls  a  tired  couple. 
Not  long  after  this  did  it  afford  us  a  home.  My 
husband  sold  it,  and  we  went  to  the  Tremont  Hotel, 


192 


SCENES, IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


where  I  remained  during  the  remainder  of  my  stay 
in  Marysville. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Soon  after  this^  I  took  a  journey^  in  company 
with  several  ladies  and  gentlemen  from  San  Fran- 
cisco^ to  a  mining  locality,  called  Park's  Bar,  situ- 
ated about  twenty  miles  from  Marysville.  After 
leaving  the  plain,  our  route  lay  through  a  thick 
growth  of  what  is  there  termed  chaparell.  It  re- 
sembles, at  a  distance,  the  hawthorn.  So  dense  is 
this  growth  of  bushes,  it  affords  grand  lurking-places 
for  the  assassin.  Many  a  poor  miner,  as  he  has 
trudged  along,  with  his  blankets  upon  his  back, 
perhaps  well  laden  with  the  shining  dust,  has  at 
this  place  been  pounced  upon,  and  reheved  of  his 
burden,  and  perhaps  his  life,  by  some  one  of  the 
many  desperadoes  who  infest  the  country. 

A  gentleman  of  the  company  related  an  incident 
which  occurred,  as  a  friend  of  his  was  once  travel- 
ling this  particular  locality.  He  was  driving  a 
mule-team  very  leisurely  along,  in  close  communion 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


193 


with  his  thoughts,  when,  all  at  once,  he  was  startled 
from  his  reverie  by  the  sudden  halting  of  his  mules. 
Upon  looking  up,  there,  close  in  advance  of  the 
mules,  were  two  huge  grisly  bears,  amusing  them- 
selves with  their  cubs.  His  heart  was  in  his  mouth 
in  an  instant.  How  could  he  compete  with  two 
such  formidable  antagonists,  should  they  simultane- 
ously attack  him  ?  His  mules  betrayed  the  terror 
they  were  suffering  by  one  long,  continuous  bray, 
in  which  they  were  speedily  joined  by  their  no  less 
frightened  driver.  This  horrid  din,  suddenly  burst- 
ing upon  this  bruin  coterie,  had  the  desired  effect. 
They  instantly  disappeared  in  the  surrounding 
chaparell ;  while  the  teamster  pursued  his  way 
with  all  possible  dispatch,  congratulating  himself 
upon  having  escaped,  at  least,  a  very  feeling  em- 
brace. While  speaking  of  this  graminivorous  ani- 
mal, allow  me  to  add,  that  I  was  acquainted  with  a 
family  who  had  in  their  possession  a  cub,  so  tame 
that  he  used  to  play  about  the  floor  with  the  chil- 
dren as  harmlessly  as  a  pet-kitten.  He  was  prized 
so  highly,  they  had  declined  several  tempting  offers^ 
to  part  with  him.  Some  hunters  had  shot  his 
mother,  and  were  dragging  her  off,  when  this  little 
cub  ran  after  them,  sprang  upon  its  dead  mother, 
17 


194 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIHG. 


and  evinced  the  strongest  symptoms  of  affection. 
Thus  it  was  easily  captured. 

About  mid-day,  we  arrived  at  our  destination  — 
quite  a  little  town,  picturesquely  situated  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Yuba.  Those  little  mountain  towns 
are,  to  me,  invested  with  a  charm,  a  novelty,  that 
is  perfectly  bewitching.  After  refreshing  ourselves 
at  a  hotel  in  the  vicinity,  we  repaired  to  the  mining 
ground,  as  we  laughingly  remarked,  to  prospect. 
Some  of  the  miners  were  so  very  gallant  as  to  offer 
us  the  use  of  their  pans,  at  the  same  time  assuring 
us  that  they  would  allow  us  all  the  gold  dust  we 
were  lucky  enough  to  pan  out.  It  was  considered 
rich  diggins  at  this  spot ;  therefore,  the  vision  of  a 
heap  of  gold  dust  incited  us  at  once  to  doff  our  lace 
sleeves  and  fancy  fixings,  and  enter  zealously  upon 
this  to  us  novel  method  of  obtaining  that  coveted 
metal.    Oh,  it  was  back-aching  work,  I  assure  you ! 

Since  that  one  half  hour's  work  in  the  mines, 
how  much  sympathy  I  have  felt  for  the  gold-dig- 
gers !  The  thought  at.  once  obtruded  itself,  that  if 
some  of  the  wives  of  these  poor  miners  whom  I  had 
known  could  but  realize  one  half  of  the  toil  and 
hardships  their  husbands  endure  in  the  acquisition 
of  wealth,  or  of  even  a  competency,  by  the  use  of 
the  pan  and  shovel,  they  would  not  be  half  so  lavish 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  195 

in  fheir  expenditures.  It  was  excessively  warm ; 
there  was  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring ;  the  sun  was 
shining  down  with  more  than  tropical  fervor,  while 
its  rays  were  reflected  in  ten  thousand  directions 
from  the  sides  of  the  hills;  until  the  atmosphere 
glowed  and  glimmered  like  the  air  in  a  furnace. 

Although  the  earth  was  yielding  at  the  rate  of 
ten  cents  to  the  panful,  we  very  soon  came  to  the 
conclusion,  that  we  had  rather  suffer  the  privations 
incident  to  poverty  than  toil  longer  in  that  burning 
heat ;  so,  wiping  the  perspiration  from  our  vermil- 
ion countenances,  we  repaired  to  the  hotel ;  from 
whence,  after  a  short  rest,  I  sallied  forth  to  visit 
several  female  acquaintances  of  mine  who  resided 
at  the  Bar.  They  were  ladies  who,  upon  their  first 
arrival  in  the  country,  had  boarded  with  us  awhile, 
until  their  husbands  could  provide  a  suitable  abode 
for  them  in  the  mmes. 

I  found  one  of  them,  a  Mrs.  Q  ,  suffering  ex- 
cessively from  a  terrible  fright  she  had  received 
the  night  previous.  The  facts  were  these :  They 
kept  a  boarding-house,  where  they  accommodated 
about  forty  persons.  In  the  night,  they  were  both 
awakened  by  a  noise  in  their  room.  Before  they 
could  move,  and  (Bven  before  her  husband  could 
grasp  a  revolver  which  lay  loaded  under  his  pillow, 


196  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  figure  of  a  man;  masked^  and  holding  a  sharp, 
glittering  knife  in  his  hand,  was  standing  over 
them.  The  knife  was  held  within  an  inch  of  her 
throat,  while  the  threat  was  nttered,  that  if  her 
husband  moved  so  much  as  an  inch,  his  wife's  life 
would  pay  the  penalty.  Such  a  threat  was,  of 
course,  effective.  There  they  lay,  while  three  other 
burglars  entered  the  room,  and  commenced  pilfer- 
ing. A  trunk  was  opened,  from  whence  they  ab- 
stracted one  thousand  dollars  in  gold  dust.  Next 
followed  her  jewelry,  and  her  gold  watch,  a  parting 
present  from  her  mother.  Her  husband's  watch, 
and  several  other  articles  of  value,  was  seized  upon ; 
with  all  of  which  they  decamped.  The  sentinel 
still  stood  over  the  wife,  while  she  had  fainted  from 
fright.  After  waiting  until  his  co-workers  in  villany 
were  fairly  ofl*,  he  told  him,  if  he  raised  the  alarm 
until  the  lapse  of  so  many  minutes  after  his  depart- 
ure, that  a  ball,  from  an  unseen  and  unerring  hand, 
would  be  the  forfeiture.  He  then  v-amosed.  The 
alarm,  however,  was  instscntly  given ;  every  inmate 
in  the  house  were  aroused;  but  no  trace  of  the 
robbers  was  ever  discovered.    It  was  weeks,  and 

even  months,  before  Mrs.  Q          recovered  from 

the  shock  she  that  night  received. 

I  felt  in  hopes  the  party  would  conclude  to 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  197 

remain  over  night  at  the  bar ;  but;  as  there  was  a 
bright  moon^  they  decided  upon  a  moonhght  drive 
to  Marysville.  I  must  confess  myself  so  much  of 
a  coward  that  I  hked  not  to  travel  through  those 
gloomy-looking  canons  and  ravines  at  nighty  even 
were  the  way  illumined  by  brilliant  Luna's  beams. 
I  fancied  the  shadows  of  the  trees  assumed  the 
form  of  the  lurking  assassin^  ready  for  a  spring. 
We  met  with  no  adventure  on  the  way  home^  and 
our  ears  were  assailed  with  no  more  horrible  sounds 
than  the  bark  of  the  cayotes  that  prowled  along 
on  our  track.  These  animals  partake  of  the  nature 
of  the  wolf;  and  are  very  cowardly.  They  are 
a  great  pest  in  California.  The  burial-ground, 
situated  about  a  mile  from  Marysville^  was  often 
frequented  by  these  animals ;  bodies  were  often 
found  exhumed  and  partially  devoured  by  them. 

During  my  residence  in  California,  situated  as  I 
was  most  of  the  time  in  a  hotel;  I  had  ample 
opportunity  to  study  human  nature  in  all  its  varied 
;ghases.  Scenes  of  misery,  too,  I  witnessed,  enough 
to  fill  a  volume;  were  they  all  recorded.  Scenes  of 
gayety  and  splendor  also  diversified  the  way.  I 
attended  one  wedding  in  MarysvillC;  the  cost  of 
which-  was  currently  estimated  at  two  thousand 
dollars.    The  bride  was  a  fair  widow  of  thirty,  (and 

17* 


198 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


wealthy  withal^)  whose  husband  had  deceased  five 
months  previously. 

People  in  our  staid^  matter-of-fact^  puritanical 
towns,  can  have  but  a  faint  conception  of  the  ever- 
varying,  ever-changing  scenes,  pertaining  to  a  life 
in  California,  where  fortunes  are  made  and  lost  in 
a  day ;  friends  die,  and  are  forgotten  soon,  in  the 
constant  whirl  of  excitement  which  surrounds  one. 
People  who,  when  I  first  arrived  in  California,  were 
considered  immensely  rich  in  this  world's  goods, 
long  before  I  left  were  reduced  to  penury.  The 
motto  there  is,  "  Nothing  risked,  nothing  gained." 
They  will  perhaps  invest  all  they  possess  in  some 
great  speculation,  (always  bound  to  succeed,)  and 
lose  the  whole.    Then,  again,  vice  versa. 

"What  shocked  me  more  than  g.11  else  in  Califor- 
nia was,  to  see  the  poor,  sick,  and  often  penniless 
people,  brought  to  the  hotels  (there  were  no  hos- 
pitals in  Marysville  at  that  time)  to  die  ;  and  then, 
when  the  soul  had  taken  its  flight  to  the  spirit-land, 
to  see  the  hearse  drive  to  the  door,  take  the  body, 
which  had  been  deposited  in  a  rough  box  without 
the  usual  apparelling  for  the  grave,  and  start  off  to 
the  place  of  interment  alone  !  Not  one  solitary 
mourner  to  follow  the  remains,  or  drop  the  tear  of 
affection  at  the  grave  of  one  who,  perhaps,  in  some  v 


SCENES  IN  THE  rACIFIC. 


199 


far-distant  home;  had  many  "loving  friends^  and 
true/'  who  were  anxiously  waiting  and  watching 
for  his  return. 

One  day  there  were  two  brothers^  brought  by 
their  father  to  the  Tremont  Hotel.  They  were 
sick  with  a  fever.  After  a  week  of  intense  suffer- 
ings they  died;  and  the  lone  father  followed  them 
to  their  last  resting-place.  A  few  days  subsequent 
to  this  event;  he  was  attacked  with  the  same  fever 
which  had  jproved  fatal  to  his  sons.  He  soon  felt 
convinced  that  he^  too,  must  die.  When  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  house  asked  him  if  he  had  friends 
in  the  Atlantic  states^  to  whom  he  wished  word  to 
be  conveyed;  "  NO;"  said  he  ?  "  I  am  the  last  of  my 
race.  I  have  no  friend  living  to  mourn  for  me." 
He  even  declined  naming  the  place  of  his  birth. 
In  a  few  days  after  that;  he  lay  beside  his  boys. 

At  another  timC;  the  mangled  form  of  a  young 
and  intelligent-looking  man  was  brought  to  a  hotel. 
He  had  been  crushed  in  a  horrible  manner  by  the 
falling  of  a  large  rock  where  he  was  at  Avork.  His 
head  and  chest  alone  remained  uninjured.  A 
younger  brother  accompanied  him  to  the  hotel; 
and  remained  as  his  nurse.  Every  night  he  used 
to  slip  quietly  from  his  suffering  brother's  room, 
and  repair  to  the  gambhng-houseS;  and  there  stake 


200 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


and  lose  large  siims^  "which  had  been  obtained  at 
the  price  of  his  brother's  life.  The  poor  sick  man, 
unable  to  raise  a  finger,  his  back  turned  towards 
the  door,  and  therefore  not  knowing  his  brother 
was  absent,  would  call  repeatedly  the  brother's 
name,  begging  him  for  a  glass  of  water.  After 
a  while,  all  would  be  still.  No  one  suspected  he 
was  dying  there  alone  nights. 

One  night,  I  heard  the  call  so  long  continued, 
and  so  plaintively  uttered,  I  could  endure  it  no 
longer.  I  rose,  dressed  myself,  and  repaired  to  the 
sufferer's  room.  I  found  him  all  alone.  "  I  wish, 
madam,"  he  said,  ^"^you  would  waken  Jack.  He 
sleeps  so  soundly,  I  never  can  arouse  him  in  the 
night.  I  call  until  I  am  fearful'  of  awakening  the 
occupants  of  the  surrounding  rooms,  and  then  I 
desist.  But  now  I  think  I  am  dying."  I  told  him 
his  brother's  bed  was  vacant.  He  seemed  very 
much  distressed  at  his  brother's  absence.  Search 
was  immediately  instituted.  He  was  found  at  a 
gambling-table,  betting.  He  was  summoned  to  the 
bedside  of  his  brother.  After  a  while,  the  sick 
man  revived.  He  lingered  through  the  next  day. 
At  night,  his  physician  enjoined  his  brother  to 
remain  constantly  with  him,  as  it  was  not  probable 
he  would  survive  until  morning.    The  passion  for 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


201 


gambling  had  gained  such  an  ascendency  over  the 
young  brother's  better  feelings^  that^  some  time 
during  the  silent  watches  of  the  nighty  he  had 
deserted  his  dying  brother !  In  the  mornings  the 
poor  sufferer  was  found  a  corpse.  He  had  died 
alone  !  What  struggles,  what  agonizing  thoughts, 
were  his,  what  words  passed  his  dying  lips,  none 
save  his  Maker  knew. 

The  brother  had  passed  the  night  in  one  of  the 
many  dens  of  infamy  that  abounded,  and  which 
shed,  and  still  do,  a  withering  blight  over  the  fair 
and  sunny  valleys  of  the  richest  country  the  sun 
ever  shone  upon.  See,  in  this  case,  what  a  perni- 
cious influence  those  gilded  saloons  of  vice  have 
upon  the  unstable  mind  of  youth.  Here  were  two 
brothers,  who  had  been  reared  by  fond  parents  in 
the  fear  and  admonition  of  the  Lord.  Through 
their  childhood  they  had  loved  one  another ;  and 
together  they  had  repaired  to  a  distant  land  to 
seek  their  fortunes.  The  younger,  whose  mind 
was  more  vacillating,  had  by  degrees  yielded  to 
the  song  of  that  siren.  Vice,  until  she  had  lured 
him  to  her  haunts,  causing  him  to  forget  home, 
friends,  and  even  a  dying  brother,  to  follow  in  the 
train  of  the  tempter. 

My  prayers  are,  and  ever  have  been,  with  the 


202 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


vigilance  committees  of  California.  May  the  bless- 
ing of  God  attend  theni;  and  prosper  all  their  un- 
dertakings and  endeavors  to  nproot  and  extermi- 
nate those  hotbeds  of  vice^  those  quick-sands  in  the 
ocean  of  life^  upon  which  the  bark  of  many  a  prom- 
ising youth^  of  many  a  young  husband^  and  of 
many  a  middle-aged  father^  has  been  irrecoverably 
wrecked. 

Go  into  the  villages  and  towns  throughout  the 
Atlantic  States^  and  in  how  many  will  you  not  find 
one^  at  least^  who  has  been  a  heart-sufferer  from 
the  effects  of  those  dens  of  sin  and  iniquity,  which, 
until  the  organization  of  the  vigilance  committee, 
threw  open  their  gilded  doors,  even  in  the  glare  of 
noon-day,  to  allure  the  weak-minded  and  unsuspect- 
ing !  And  even  the  strong-minded  have  sometimes 
fallen  a  prey  to  their  seductive  wiles.  How  many 
homes  have  been  rendered  desolate,  how  many  fa- 
milies disunited  and  severed,  how  many  hearts  as 
well  as  fortunes  broken,  by  the  prevalence  of  that 
one  great  sin,  gambling !  and  it  has  been  an  almost 
universal  vice  in  California. 

How  many  enterprising  and  ambitious  men  have 
I  known  who  emigrated  with  their  happy  wives  to 
California,  their  hearts  buoyant  with  bright  antici- 
pations of  the  future !    Success  for  awhile  crowned 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


203 


all  their  undertakings;  but^  alas!  those  gorgeously 
furnished  drinking-saloons  which  meet  the  eye  at 
every  turn  proved  too  enticing  for  frail  human  na- 
ture to  resist.  The  first  temptation  yielded  to^  and 
how  easily  the  downward  course  is  pursued^  which 
terminates  in  total  depravity ! 

The  yoimg  wife^  neglected  by  her  husband^  her 
brilliant  hopes  crushed^  —  unless  she  be  possessed 
of  a  strong  mind^  and  has  friends  there  to  guide 
and  guard  her^,  —  rather  than  return  alone  to  the 
home  of  her  childhood^  gradually  loses  her  self- 
respect^  and  finally  swells  the  list  of  those  we  blush 
to  name. 

Those  upon  whom  the  sun  of  prosperity  has  ever 
shone,  know  not-  how  bitterly  painful  is  the  first 
clouding  over  of  youth's  sweet  visions  —  the  first 
crushing  blight  of  confidence  and  love  —  the  first 
consciousness  that  life  is  not  so  fair  and  bright,  nor 
friends  so  kind  and  true,  as  we  have  pictured  them. 
Not  from  observation  wholly  do  I  asseverate  these 
statements  —  by  sad  experience  have  these  senti- 
ments become  deeply  imbedded  in  my  heart.  I 
have  known,  and  felt,  and  suffered  all^  in  my  short 
life.  But,  when  the  wife's  cup  of  misery  is  full  to 
overflowing,  and  she  returns  to  the  home  of  her 
youth,  expecting  to  receive  the  sympathy  she  so 


204 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


justly  deserveS;  and  which  is  so  readily  proffered 
by  those  encircling  her  own  hearth-stone^  how 
poignant  to  her  sensitive  and  lacerated  feelings  are 
the  baneful;  whispered  slanders  which  are  borne  to 
her  ears !  and  emanating^  toO;  from  the  lips  of  those 
she  once  considered  friends^  and  who^  had  adversity 
not  overtaken  her,  would  still  have  been  fawning 
sycophants  for  favor. 

Oh;  ye  slanderers !  pause  in  your  career ;  for  it 
is  one  of  the  most  heinous  sins  that  the  instigator 
of  all  evil  ever  conceived,  and  from  which  every 
pure  heart  will  turn  with  loathing  and  disgust.  If 
the  professed  slanderer  ever  has  any  moments  of 
serious  reflection,  how  severe  must  be  the  accusa- 
tions of  that  faithful  monitor  within ;  for  to  how 
many,  in  the  course  of  their  life-time,  have  they 
cast  their  poisoned  arrows,  dipped  in  the  foul  ex- 
tract of  their  own  hearts,  which,  while  it  hills  not 
those  to  whom  it  is  aimed,  rankles  deeply  in  a  sen- 
sitive heart,  causing  tears  of  agony  to  flow !  Then 
there  are  always  plenty  of  the  lovers  of  gossip 
abroad  to  catch  and  retail  slander ;  plenty  ready  to 
believe  an  evil  report,  without  taking  the  trouble 
to  investigate.  Thus  many  an  innocent  heart  has 
palpitated  keenly,  upon  receiving  manifest  slights 
from  a  source  whence  they  had  a  right  to  expect 
nought  but  kindness. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


205 


CHAPTER  XX. 

One  bright  mornings  toward  the  latter  part  of 
the  month  of  September^  I  left  Marysville  for  a 
drive  to  General  Sutter's  residence,  situated  about 
eight  miles  below  Marysville.  You  cross  Feather 
River  at  Yuba  city,  and  follow  the  banks  of  this 
lovely  stream,  the  scene  varied  and  beautified  by 
nature's  incomparable  adornments,  until  the  pic- 
turesque mansion  of  the  affable  and  dignified  gene- 
ral greets  the  eye.  The  road  leads  to  the  back 
entrance  of  the  spacious,  square  court-yard,  which 
is  surrounded  by  a  range  of  buildings  on  three 
sides.  Several  large  and  stately  trees  rear  their 
umbrageous  branches  far  above  the  roofs  of  the 
adobe  buildings,  which,  from  their  sylvan  retreat, 
peep  out  a  ready  welcome  to  the  tired  stranger. 
The  grounds  around  the  dwelling  are  tastefully 
and  beautifully  adorned  with  numerous  parterres, 
some  of  which  are  inclosed  with  hedges  of  cactus. 
Here  I  saw -the  first  cultivated  rose  that  had  greeted 
my  eye  since  leaving  New  England.  How  the 
sight  of  those  roses  carried  me  back  to  the  neat 
New  England  homes,  embowered  with  honey-suckle 
and  roses!  It  was  actually  fragrant  with  home, 
18 


206 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


and  home  associations.  On  one  side  of  the  gardens 
extended  a  flourishing  vineyard^  the  products  of 
which  amply  repaid  the  labor  expended  thereon. 

We  were  invited  by  the  general  to  enter  his 
pleasant-looking  domicile^  which  invitation  we  cheer- 
fully accepted.  We  were  regaled  with  grapes^  as 
luscious^  I  dare  say,  as  the  forbidden  fruit  which 
temjDted  the  occupants  of  paradise.  The  wines 
proffered,  —  the  produce  of  the  vines  of  California, 
—  having  attained  age,  were  pronounced  of  an 
excellent  quality  in  substance  and  flavor.  Sweet 
music,  discoursed  by  one  of  the  generars  sons,  en- 
hanced the  pleasure  of  this  often-remembered  visit. 

The  Indians  in  the  immediate  vicinity  are  de- 
voted to  the  general's  service ;  while  the  only  re- 
muneration they  ask  or  expect  is  their  food.  His 
house  servants  are  all  the  female  Diggers.  The 
general's  family  carriage  is  drawn  by  two  sleek- 
looking  mules ;  and  the  driver's  box  is  occupied  by 
a  Digger  Indian,  in  costume  a  la  fancy.  Mrs.  Sutter 
generally  denies  herself  to  all  visitors;  but  the  re- 
gret generated  by  her  absence  speedily  vanishes  in 
the  presence  of  the  affable,  courteous  general,  who 
ever  welcomes  his  visitors  with  a  cordiality  insep- 
arable from  the  man,  whose  integrity  never  bent  to 
wrong  or  pusillanimous  expediency,  and  who,  armed 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


207 


intellectually  with  the  panoply  of  justice^  has  cour- 
age to  sustain  it^  under  all  and  any  circumstances. 

We  arrived  back  to  Marysville  just  as  the  red 
orb  of  day  touched  the  rim  of  the  western  horizon, 
covering  it  all  with  crimson  and  gold,  and  filling 
the  world  with  a  flood  of  evening  glory. 

I  was  often  amused,  while  sojourning  at  the  Tre- 
mont,  by  witnessing  the  transformations  effected  by 
a  change  of  apparel  on  the  inhabitants  of  the  moun- 
tains, when  they  made  temporary  visits  to  the  val- 
leys. One  day,  a  weary  and  care-worn-looking 
miner  entered  the  bar-room  of  the  hotel.  Nought 
of  his  countenance  was  visible  save  his  eyes  and 
nose ;  for  over  his  brow  was  drawn  a  soiled  Kossuth 
hat ;  while  the  lower  part  of  his  face  was  entirely 
concealed  by  an  abundant  growth  of  hair.  He  de- 
posited his  blankets  upon  the  floor,  advanced  to  the 
bar-keeper,  and  inquired  for  the  proprietor  of  the 
house.  To  him  this  soiled  and  travelled-stained 
miner  delivered  up  thousands  for  safe  keeping.  He 
seated  himself  in  the  gentlemen's  parlor,  eyeing  in- 
tently for  some  moments  an  open  piano.  Upon 
his  advancing  toward  it;  and  seating  himself  upon 
the  music-stool,  a  smile,  bordering  on  derision,  in- 
voluntarily passed  from  one  to  another  of  the  occu- 
pants of  the  room.  The  smile,  however,  was  speedily 


208 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


changed  to  looks  of  astonishment^  when^  after  run- 
ning his  fingers  hastily  over  the  keys,  music  such 
as  we  sometimes  hear  in  our  dreams^  but  very  sel- 
dom in  every-day  life,  gushed  upon  their  astonished 
senses.  The  air  was  Sweet  Home."  He  accom- 
panied the  instrument  with  a  voice  of  surpassing 
melody^  which  penetrated  to  the  ladies'  rooms,  and 
brought  them  en  masse  to  the  stairs,  where  they 
remained  almost  spell-bound,  while  he  played  and 
sang  piece  after  piece,  seemingly  engrossed  by 
heart-awakening  memories  of  other  days  and  other 
lands,  and  wholly  unconscious  of  the  presence  of 
listeners  who  had  gathered  around  him.  As  he 
was  about  midway  in  the  execution  of  that  plain- 
tive song,  ^^Katy  Darling,"  he  suddenly  ceased, 
"  became  aware  of  the  attention  he  was  attracting, 
caught  up  his  old,  greasy  hat,  and  vamosed. 

When  next  he  appeared  in  their  midst,  the  met- 
amorphosis was  so  complete  as  to  utterly  prevent 
recognition,  had  he  not  again  seated  himself  at  the 
piano.  He  remained  several  weeks  at  the  hotel, 
and  often  delighted  us  with  specimens  of  his  musi- 
cal talent.  He  was  considered  by  connoisseurs  as 
the  greatest  performer  upon  the  piano  in  all  Cali- 
fornia. 

I  never  saw  a  miner  without  thinking  how  little 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  ,  209 

one  could  judge^  by  the  present  appearance^  of  his 
origm  or  past  life,  for  there  were  those  laboring 
in  the  gold  mines  of  California  who  had  held  im- 
portant offices  of  trust  in  the  Atlantic  states.  The 
sons  of  wealthy  southern  planters,  too,  were  there, 
laboring  as  hard  as  their  fathers'  slaves  at  home, 
but  reaping  a  far  richer  harvest  of  gold.  People 
who  at  home  never  performed  any  manual  labor, 
there  would  not  hesitate  to  stand  in  water  up  to 
their  knees  for  days  and  weeks  together,  if,  by  so 
doing,  they  could  heap  high  their  coffers. 

The  good  fortune  of  a  lady  in  California,  which 
came  under  my  especial  observation,  I  will  here 
record.  Upon  the  arrival  at  Marysville  of  orfe  of 
the  up-river  boats,  a  fine-looking  lady,  whose  age 
might  perhaps  be  thirty  or  thereabouts,  came  to 
the  Tremont  Hotel,  and  desired  an  interview  with 
the  proprietor.  She  informed  him  she  was  entirely 
destitute  of  funds,  as  the  journey  from  New  York 
had  been  more  expensive  than  she  had  expected, 
and  begged,  as  a  favor,  the  loan  of  twenty  dollars. 
Could  she  obtain  that  amount,  she  intended  to 
pursue  her  way  to  Downieville,  where  she  hoped 
and  expected  to  find  a  friend  and  relative.  The 
proprietor  accordingly  proffered  the  required  sum, 
although  somewhat  doubtful  of  receiving  it  again, 
18* 


210 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


or  even  of  seeing  tlie  recipient.  The  next  morn- 
ing .she  resumed  her  journey;  and  the  remem- 
brance of  this  fine-looking  widow  was  obhterated 
by  the  occurrence  of  other  and  more  important 
affairs.  Five  or  six  weeks  had  elapsed^  when^  one 
day^  she  astonished  us  all  by  appearing  in  our 
midst.  Upon  meeting  the  proprietor,  "  Oh/'  said 
she,  "  I  have  been  so  successful !  and  now  I  have 
come  to  liquidate  old  debts."  The  nature  of  the 
success  was  this :  She  arrived  at  Downieville,  found 
the  one  of  whom  she  was  in  pursuit,  and  he  built 
her  a  canvas  house,  procured  her  a  cooking-stove, 
a  long  board  table,  and  some  wooden  benches,  and 
she  commenced  Jkeeping  a  boarding-house.  She 
soon  had  thirty  or  forty  boarders,  for  each  of  which 
she  received  twelve  dollars  per  week.  One  day, 
as  she  was  SAveeping  her  floor,  —  which,  by  the 
way,  was  nothing  but  the  earth,  —  she  saw  some- 
thing glitter.  Upon  examination,  it  proved  to  be 
a  lump  of  gold.  She  searched  fSrther,  and  found 
the  earth  was  full  of  particles  of  gold.  She  in- 
stantly summoned  to  her  presence  the  friend  who 
had  assisted  her  in  locating  herself  in  such  rich 
diggings.  They  removed  the  'table,  benches,  and 
stove.  Upon  the  last-named  utensil  a  dinner  was 
in  progress  ;  but  who  would  think  of  preparing  a 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


211 


dinner,  even  if  it  were  near  the  dinner  hour,  should 
they  suddenly  find  themselves  in  possession  of  such 
rich  diggings.  This  land,  which  she  had  appro- 
priated to  her  own  use,  was  situated  in  a  central 
part  of  the  tcifvn  of  Downieville.  It  had  never, 
been  prospected,  for  the  very  reason  that  its  ap- 
pearance betokened  nought  to  impress  the  beholder 
with  the  idea  that  gold  existed  there  in  such  quan- 
tities. 

That  day  they  two  took  from  the  kitchen  floor, 
as  she  termed  it,  five  hundred  dollars,  mostly  in 
lumps.  Every  day  witnessed  similar  success.  As 
soon  as  she  could  think  of  leaving  her  treasures 
for  two  days,  she  hastened  to  Marysville  to  cancel 
her  debts.  Afterwards  she  became  a  frequent 
visitor  at  the  house.  I  became  very  well  ac- 
quainted with  her ;  and  one  day  she  related  the 
cause  of  her  leaving  home  alone,  to  seek  a  home 
in  California.  She  was  married  very  young,  and 
in  opposition  to  the  wishes  of  her  parents.  Unfor- 
tunately, her  married  life  proved  miserable  in  the 
extreme.  After  a  lapse  of  years,  she  returned 
penniless,  with  one  child,  to  the  home  of  her  youth, 
where  she  received  a  hearty  welcome  from  her 
father ;  but  the  gentle,  loving  mother,  whom  she 
had  forsaken,  had  gone  long  since  to  the  spirit- 


212 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


land^  and  her  place  in  the  family  circle  was  occu- 
pied by  another.  That  other  regretted  the  daugh- 
ter's return^  and  manifested  her  disapproval  by 
tmkindness  to  the  child.  At  one  time^  when  the 
child  was  suffering  intensely  from  ^ickness^  child- 
hke  he  refused  to  take  his  medicine,  whereupon 
the  grandmother  struck  him.  In  twenty-four  hours 
after  that,  the  boy  was  a  corpse.  After  the  burial 
of  her  boy,  the  daughter  never  looked  upon  the 
step-mother  again.  She  told  her  father,  that,  if  he 
would  furnish  her  with  means,  she  would  seek  her 
fortune  in  California ;  and  she  did,  in  the  manner 
above  related.  She  acquired  a  fortune ;  but  the 
recollection  of  her  boy,  at  times,  would  come  float- 
ing over  the  ocean  of  memory,  overshadowing  all 
the  bright  hopes  and  sunny  feelings  of  her  heart. 

It  was  a  novel  sight  to  me  to  watch  the  emigrant 
wagons,  as  they  passed  through  Marysville  to  their 
different  destinations.  How  dusty  and  travel-stained 
they  appeared,  after  a  four  and  five  months'  jour- 
ney across  those  almost  boundless  prairies,  after 
fording  those  mighty  streams,  whose  waters  had 
been  navigated  by  nought  save  the  red  man's 
canoe,  effecting  a  passage  through  lonely  canons 
and  over  towering  mountains,  enduring  almost 
every  hardship  the  human  frame  is  capable  of 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


213 


sustaining,  and  finally  had  reached  the  desired 
goal !  • 

How  emaciated  the  cattle  looked ;  and  no  won- 
der^ for  how  many  long  and  weary  miles  they  had 
travelled !  I  almost  fancied  those  old  oxen  actually 
smiled  for  joy  at  arriving  at  their  destination;  yet 
many  of  their  number  had  given  out  on  the  way, 
and  their  bones  lay  bleaching  in  the  sun. 

A  lady  who  had  travelled  across  the  plains  told 
me  how  sad  it  made  her  feel  when  she  saw  the 
cattle  giving  out  on  the  way.  Said  she,  "  Those 
dumb  beasts  would  express  so  much  sorrow  in  their 
faces  when  they  began  to  falter  in  their  pace,  they 
would  look  so  wishfully  into  the  face  of  the  team- 
ster, and  low  so  mournfully,  I  knew  they  under- 
stood their  situation." 

Notwithstanding  the  sufferings  and  hardships 
those  emigrants  endure  while  on  their  winding 
way,"  all  is  forgotten  when  they  reach  the  settle- 
ments. Their  swarthy,  sun-burned  faces  are  radiant 
with  joy  as  they  pass  along. 

It  is  astonishing  how  much  one  of  those  wagons 
will  hold.  I  saw  one  passing  with  eight  holes  cut 
in  the  canvas  on  one  side,  and  a  child's  face  peeping 
out  at  every  one  of  these  holes.  Besides  the  chil- 
dren it  contained,  there  were  cats,  dogs,  beds  and 
beddings,  cooking-stove,  tin  pans,  and  kettles. 


214 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


Two  emigrant  wagons  passed  through  town  one 
dajy  each  driven  by  two  beautiful-looking  girls  — 
beautiful,  although  browned  by  exposure  to  the 
weather.  In  their  hands  they  carried  one  of  those 
tremendous,  long  ox-whips,  which,  by  great  exer- 
tion, they  flourished,  to  the  evident  admiration  of 
all  beholders.  Their  surpassing  beauty  gained  for 
them  the  appellation  of  the  belles  of  the  plains." 
In  two  weeks  from  the  time  they  attracted  so  much 
attention,  driving  each  three  yoke  of  oxen  through 
town,  they  were  married  to  gentlemen  whom  they 
had  never  seen  until  they  arrived  in  California,  and 
who  had  never  seen  them  until  they  beheld  them 
as  teamsters. 

I  often  saw  ladies  at  the  hotel  who  had  resided 
eight  and  twelve  months  at  different  bars  far  up  in 
the  mountains,  where  they  were  the  only  females, 
and  during  all  this  time  would  not  see  a  lady  to 
speak  to.  You  can  imagine  how  fast  they  would 
talk,  upon  getting  where  there  were  plenty  of  their 
own  sex. 

I  was  quite  amused  at  an  incident  related  by  one 
of  those  ladies,  who  had  been  for  eight  months  thus 
isolated  from  all  society.  Her  husband  kept  a 
boarding-house,  where  he  accommodated  about 
thirty  miners,  which  were  all  that  worked  at  that 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


215 


place.  A  short  time  previous  to  the  occurrence  of 
the  scene  here  related^  these  miners  had  had  some 
trouble  with  a  tribe  of  Indians  whose  rancheria  was 
not  far  distant.  They  had  heard  several  times  that 
they  meditated  an  attack  upon  all  the  whites  in 
their  vicinity^  and  for  some  time  they  had  been 
upon  their  guard ;  but^  as  they  heard  nothing  from 
them^  they  had  relaxed  their  watchfulness.  One 
day  J,  when  they  were  all  at  work  in  the  mines^  and 
this  lady  alone  in  the  house^  instantaneously  a  deaf- 
ening war-whoop  rang  in  her  ears.  She  rati  to  the 
door,  and  saW;,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  house, 
about  two  hundred  painted  Indians,  armed  with 
bows,  arrows,  and  hatchets,  advancing  at  a  rapid 
pace.  She  rushed  from  the  house,  frightened  half 
to  death,  (as  she  expressed  her  feelings,)  and  ran, 
screaming,  to  the  spot  where  the  men  were  at 
work.  They,  hearing  the  war-whoop  and  her 
screams,  and  seeing  the  whole  tribe  making  such  a 
rapid  descent,  naturally  supposed  they  were  coming 
to  exterminate  them ;  and  if  so,  flight  was  out  of 
the  question.  There  was  no  alternative  but  to 
meet  the  foe,  and  fight  with  picks  and  shovels ;  for 
their  fire-arms  were  in  the  house,  and  the  Indians 
were  between  the  house  and  where  they  were. 
They  directed  Mrs.          to  flee  across  the  river 


216 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


and  into  the  woods  on  the  opposite  side,  and  secrete 
herself  as  quickly  as  possible.  The  river  was  so 
deep,  the  water  so  wild  and  dark-looking,  and  span- 
ned by  so  narrow  a  timber,  th^t,  upon  any  ordinary 
occasion,  she  would  have  hesitated  a  long  time  be- 
fore venturing  across  j  but  now,  with  the  velocity 
of  the  wind  almost,  she  crossed  the  timber,  and 
rushed  with  headlong  speed  for  the  woods.  Before 
reaching  it,  however,  she  passed  several  large  exca- 
vations in  the  earth;  and,  thinking  one  of  these 
would  afford  her  a  grand  hiding-place,  she  jumped 
into  it,  and  crouched  down  to  await  her  fate.  Said 
she, It  would  be  impossible  to  describe  my  feelings 
while  in  this  hole.  I  expected  every  moment  to 
see  a  dozen  dark-skinned  savages,  glaring  at  me 
with  their  murderous,  blood-thirsty  eyes.  I  could 
endure  it  no  longer :  I  must  crawl  out,  and  rush  on. 
After  great  exertion,  I  got  out,  and,  not  once  daring 
to  look  around,  made  all  haste  for  the  woods. 

"  Reaching  it,  I  would  hide  myself  for  a  few  mo- 
ments, and  then  think, '  They  will  surely  find  me 
here ;  I  must  find  a  better  place  than  this ; '  and 
then  leave  it  in  search  of  another.  In  this  way  I 
hid  myself  a  dozen  times.  Finally,  I  climbed  up 
into  the  branches  of  a  large  tree,  and  there  remain- 
ed, for  how  long  I  could  not  tell  —  the  time  seemed 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


217 


interminable.  Then  I  heard  some  one  shonting.  I 
was  so  terrified^  I  could  scarcely  retain  my  seat. 
Soon  I  heard  my  own  name  called^  and  recognized 
my  husband's  voice.  He  was  alive^  then^  and  all 
the  others  were  murdered !  When  he  appeared  in 
sight,  he  was  laughing.  I  thought  him  insane. 
Said  he, Come  down  from  the  tree ;  it  is  all  right. 
I  thought  I  should  never  find  you.  I  have  been 
hunting  these  two  hours.' " 

It  seemed  these  Indians  had  started,  in  honor  of 
some  great  occasion,  to  visit  a  neighboring  tribe. 
They  had  painted  and  armed  themselves,  as  they 
ever  do  when  they  start  upon  a  journey  to  cele- 
brate any  great  event.  Their  object  in  raising  such 
a  war-whoop  was,  doubtless,  a  sportive  one ;  for 
they  passed  the  miners  with  their  countenances 
illumined  with  a  broad  grin.* 

The  lady,  who  was  from  the  New  England  States, 
returned  to  her  house  with  some  idea  of  the  suffer- 
ings of  the  early  New  England  settlers.  It  was 
days  before  she  recovered  her  usual  equanimity. 

Another  lady  told  me  that  she  was  the  first  who 
arrived  at  Canon  Creek,  situated  a  hundred  miles 
from  Marysville,  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains ; 
and  that,  when  she  arrived  at  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain which  overlooked  the  ravine  in  which  the 

19 

1 


218 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACmC. 


miners  were  at  work,  they  desisted  from  their  la- 
bors, gave  three  hearty  cheers,  and  came  to  the 
place  where  she  was  seated  on  a  mule.  Their  de- 
light was  so  great  at  seeing  a  live  woman  in  their 
midst,  that  they  actually  lifted  the  mule  upon 
which  she  was  riding  from  his  feet,  and  carried 
them  both  down  the  mountain.  Those  miners,  who 
had  lived  so  long  in  their  little  cabins,  secluded 
from  the  world,  deprived  of  the  cheering  presence 
of  woman,  knew  then,  if  they  had  never  before 
known,  how  to  appreciate  the  opposite  sex. 

As  a  specimen  of  the  sort  of  accommodations  a 
traveller  is  likely  to  meet  with  in  a  journey  through 
the  more  unsettled  parts  of  the  mountains,  I  will 
describe  a  public-house  on  the  trail  (as  it  was  called) 
that  I  once  had  occasion  to  stop  at.  It  was  a  little 
log  shanty,  kept  by  a  woman  —  of  what  color  I  was 
unable  to  determine,  on  account  of  the  dirt  upon 
her  person.  She  hailed  from  out  West,  somewhere* 
I  think  it  must  have  been  far  West,  where  the 
cleansing  properties  of  soap  and  water  were  not 
ofteh  tested.  There  was  no  floor  in  this  shanty  but 
the  earth,  and  even  that  looked  as  if  it  had  never 
been  swept.  How  could  I  stay,  and  eat,  and  sleep 
in  so  much  dirt  ?  There  was  no  alternative ;  night 
was  close  at  hand,  and  no  other  public-house  within 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


219 


many  miles.  She  prepared  us  a  good  supper^  as  she 
termed  it;,  in  which^  I  presume,  there  was  a  good 
supply  of  dirt,  although  I  did  not  stop  to  scrutinize 
it  very  closely.  After  we  had  partaken  of  the 
cheer  set  before  us,  she  washed  the  dishes,  turned 
round,  and  dashed  the  dish-water  up  in  one  corner 
of  the  apartment,  wiped  her  hands  upon  her  dirty 
apology  for  a  dress,  and  sat  down  for  a  smoke.  For 
sleeping  accommodations,  there  were  berths  built 
up  against  the  side  of  this  shanty,  I  wrapped  my 
own  blankets  around  me,  and  crawled  into  one  of 
them,  where  I  remdned  until  daylight.  Eight  glad 
was  I  when  it  appeared,  and  I  hoped  to  leave  her 
domicile  without  being  encumbered  with  any  of 
her  live  stock ;  but  in  this  I  was  disappointed. 

At  one  time  there  came  down  from  the  moun- 
tains the  most  comical-looking  old  couple  I  ever 
beheld.  They  were  English,  and  had  emigrated 
to  the  Western  States  ten  years  previous  to  the 
date  of  my  story.  Thej  had  been  in  California 
two  years^r  during  which  time  they  had  never  left 
the  mines.  She  worked  mining  with  her  husband. 
It  was  the  commencement  of  the  rainy  season 
when  they  left  the  mines ;  and  all  she  had  on,  to 
protect  her  from  the  weather,  was  a  thin,  faded 
calico  gown  —  one  which  she  had  brougljt  from 


220 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


England  ten  years  before ;  and  it  was  the  best 
garment  she  possessed.  Over  her  shoulders  she 
wore  a  calico  jacket^  and  on  her  head  an  apology 
for  a  sun-bonnet.  Her  husband  wore  a  Mackintosh^ 
which  reached  to  his  heels,  and  on  his  head  an  old 
hat,  and  oh,  what  a  hat !  Altogether,  they  were 
the  most  forlorn-looking  couple  one  would  wish  to 
see.  They  carried  penury  in  their  very  counte- 
nances. I  pitied  her  so,  I  gave  her  a  gpntleman's 
dressing-gown,  which  had  been  left  at  the  hotel. 
It  was  rather  soiled,  to  be  sure ;  but  then  it  was 
better  than  anything  which  she  had.  When  she 
went  away,  she  wore  it  off.  They  had  started 
home  to  England,  by  the  way  of  New  York.  When 
the  bar-keeper  requested  him  to  register  his  name, 
he  made  a  cross ;  and  she  was  as  ignorant  as  he. 
At  night  she  asked  me  if  I  would  give  her  a  room 
with  good  fastenings  to  the  doors  and  windows,  as 
they  had  a  good  deal  of  gold  dust  with  them.  I 
inquired  to  know  where  it  was,  as  they  brought  no 
baggage  with  them,  except  a  little  bag,  which  she 
carried  on  her  arm.  She  said  it  was  in  belts 
around  their  waists.  I  told  her,  if  it  were  much, 
she  had  better  deliver  it  up  to  the  proprietor  of 
the  house  for  safe  keeping.  Said  she,  "  Oh,  no,  I 
would  not  lose  sight  of  it  for  anything !    I  have 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  221 

five  thousand  dollars  in  my  belt,  and  my  husband 
has  the  same."  I  advised  her  to  send  it  by  express 
to  New  Yorkj  as  they  might  be  robbed  on  the  way. 
She  said  they  conld  not  afford  to  pay  the  percent- 
age for  its  transportation,  when  they  could  carry 
it,  and  save  that  money.  So  they  started  for  New 
York  by  the  way  of  Nicaragua. 

I  often  thought  of  them  after  they  left,  and  felt 
assured  in  my  own  mind  that  they  would  lose  their 
money  before  thej^  arrived  home.  They  were  two 
very  simple  people,  and  betrayed  by  their  looks 
evident  signs  of  fear  of  robbery.  The  next  news 
I  heard  of  them  was,  that  they  were  both  drowned 
at  Virgin  Bay,  while  going  from  the  shore  in  a 
boat  to  get  on  board  the  steamer.  The  particulars 
were  these  :  The  boat  was  loaded  with  passengers ; 
and,  it  being  rather  rough,  they  became  frightened, 
and  all  rushed  to  one  side,  and  capsized  her.  This 
old  couple,  having  so  much  gold  about  their  per- 
sons, sank  immediately ;  while  those  who  were  not 
burdened  with  gold  were  quickly  picked  up  by 
other  boats.  Thus  these  two  old  people,  who  had 
lived  in  poverty  all  their  days,  died  rich,  clutching 
the  treasures  for  which  they  had  toiled  so  hard, 
and  to  obtain  which,  they  had  denied  themselves 
the  comforts  of  life.  The  school  of  poverty  in 
19* 


222 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


which  they  had  passed  the  greater  part  of  their 
lives^  had  fostered  the  spirit  of  covetousness  to 
such  a  degree^  that  it  was  finally  the  means  of 
their  losing  their  lives. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

While  in  California^  I  had  charge^  for  a  while, 
of  a  little  girl,  whose  mother  had  died  just  as  the 
steamer  upon  which  she  was  on  board  neared  the 
wharf  at  San  Francisco.  The  father,  mother,  and 
two  children  were  on  board  the  ill-fated  Independ- 
ence, which  was  wrecked,  and  then  burnt,  on  the 
coast  of  Old  California. 

When  she  commenced  burning,  the  father  hoped 
to  save  his  family  from  the  flames  by  swimming 
with  them  to  the  shore.  Being  an  expert  swim- 
mer, he  thought  that,  by  taking  one  at  a  time,  he 
might  succeed  in  bringing  them  all  to  the  land. 
He  suspended  his  wife  over  the  ship's  side  farthest 
from  the  flames,  wrapped  the  babe  of  ten  months 
in  a  shawl,  and  consigned  it  to  the  care  of  a  pas- 
senger until  his  return,  took  the  little  girl  of  four 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


223 


years  in  his  arms^  lowered  himself  into  the  water^ 
and  commenced  swimming  for  the  shore.  He 
clasped  her  little  arms  about  his  neck^  told  her  to 
hold  on,  shut  her  eyes  and  mouth,  and  she  would 
soon  be  on  the  land,  and  then  he  would  return  for 
mother  and  the  baby. 

Long  before  they  reached  the  land,  she  was 
senseless.  In  the  meantime,  the  flames  were  in- 
creasing with  such  rapidity  that  it  behooved  the 
father  to  hasten  back,  in  order  to  save  his  wife 
from  the  devouring  element.  He  left  the  little 
girl  senseless  upon  the  beach,  dove  into"~  the  foam- 
ing surf,  and  was  several  times  borne  back  to  the 
shore  before  he  could  get  beyond  it.  As  he  neared 
the  burning  wreck,  the  flames  burst  out  afresh, 
forcing  the  frightened  passengers  to  leap  into  the 
angry  waters.  The  gentleman  who  held  the  babe 
threw  it  into  the  ocean  to  save  himself  In  its 
descent,  the  shawl  became  detached  from  it,  and 
the  child  fell  into  the  water  a  short  distance  from 
the  mother,  but  beyond  her  reach.  In  one  of  its 
little  hands  it  held  a  toy;  and,  as  it  was  borne  off 
on  the  top  of  a  receding  wave,  its  little  plump 
arms  were  raised,  and  the  mother  saw  the  white, 
dimpled  hand  firmly  grasping  the  toy.  She  could 
look  no  longer.  Her  babe  was  hastening  on  to 
Bwell  the  angel-band  in  the  courts  of  the  blessed ! 


224 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIEIC. 


When  her  husband  reached  her^  the  flames  were 
close  around ;  her  dress  had  even  been  scorched. 
With  her  he  started  back  to  the  shore.  But  very 
few  could  have  breasted  the  angry  waters  as  he 
did ;  but  he  was  impelled  by  a  motive  which 
seemed  to  lend  strength  to  his  well-nigh  exhausted 
frame.  He  reached  the  shore  with  his  wife.  Some 
one  had  found  the  little  girl  senseless^  and  had 
succeeded  in  restoring  her  to  consciousness.  The 
body  of  the  infant  was  afterwards  washed  ashore, 
with  the  toy  grasped  in  its  hand.  They  made  its 
little  grave  on  the  lonely  beach,  and  placed  it 
therein. 

For  three  or  four  days  these  shipwrecked  pas- 
sengers remained  upon  the  beach,  their  only  nour- 
ishment being  molasses  and  vinegar.  They  were 
then  taken  on  board  a  vessel,  and  carried  to  San 
Francisco. 

The  mother,  weakened  by  exposure,  and  suflfer- 
ing  from  a  hurt  which  she  received  in  her  side 
while  being  suspended  from  the  ship,  breathed  her 
last  just  as  she  was  nearing  their  destined  port. 

Little  Rosa  (her  name  was  Rosa  Taylor)  often 
told  me  the  sad  story  in  her  artless,  baby  way. 
How  impressive  was  her  manner,  when,  seated  in  a 
little  chair  by  my  side,  her  dimpled  face  upturned, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


225 


her  large,  dark,  mournful  eyes  raised  to  mine,  her 
rosy  lips  parted,  to  tell  of  the  dreadful  shipwreck ; 
of  the  baby  brother  being  drowned  5  of  her  being 
so  hungry  and  cold  on  the  beach;  of  her  dear 
.  mother  dying,  and  clasping  her  so  closely  in  her 
arms,  when  she  said,  "  Be  a  good  girl,  Rosa,  and 
love  your  father ;  for  he  is  all  the  one  left  to  love 
you."  Then  the  dying  mother  said,  "  Raise  me  up, 
and  let  me  look  upon  the  land  once  more."  Then 
she  lay  back,  and  died. 

Rosa  staid  with  me  three  months,  while  her  father 
was  at  the  mines.  Then  he  came,  and  took  her 
away  to  Oregon. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  delights  of 
stage-coaching  in  California.  In  the  first  place,  the 
coaches  are  built  of  the  strongest  materials  to  be 
obtained,  and  are  sufficiently  large  to  carry  from 
twenty  to  thirty  persons.  They  are  drawn  by  six 
large,  beautiful  horses.  In  the  dry  season,  when 
the  rivers  are  low,  large  boats  do  not  run  to  Marys- 
ville,  and  most  of  the  travel  is  effected  by  stages. 
I  once  rode  to  Sacramento  and  back  in  one  of  those 
six-horse  coaches,  when  the  passengers,  inside  and 
out,  numbered  twenty-eight.  The  thermometer 
stood  at  110  deg.,  and  the  dust  was  so  dense  as  to 
almost  suffocate  one.  We  were  all  obliged  to  unimcT^ 


226 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


ourselves^  and  walk  over  all  the  bridges  on  the 
way ;  and  then^  so  frail  were  these  structures^  that 
they  trembled  and  swayed  as  the  empty  coach  was 
being  drawn  over. 

By  the  time  you  arrive  at  the  end  of  your  jour- 
ney;,  your  eyeS;  nose^  and  mouth  are  filled  with 
dust^  as  well  as  your  clothes.  One  day's  ride  ruins 
the  clothes ;  but;  if  a  person  is  blessed  with  a  strong 
constitution^  he  may  possibly  survive  several  con- 
secutive days'  riding  in  those  crowded  coaches. 
The  roads  between  Marysvill6  and  Sacramento  are 
very  leyel^  it  being  a  vast  plain  the  whole  way. 

Journeying  through  the  mountainous  sections  of 
the  country  in  coaches^  is  perfectly  awful.  The 
passengers  are  obliged  to  alight;  and  push  behind 
the  vehicle;  to  assist  the  horses  up  every  hill;  and, 
when  they  arrive  at  the  summit;  chain  the  wheelS; 
all  get  iu;  and  ride  to  the  base  of  the  next  moun- 
tain; in  danger  every  moment  of  being  overturned, 
and  having  their  necks  broken.  For  thus  working 
their  passages  they  have  to  pay  exorbitant  fares. 

One  night;  about  eleven  o'clock;  a  lady  came  into 
the  hotel;  looking  more  dead  than  alive.  She  was 
leading  a  little  girl;  of  about  seven  years  of  age, 
who  was  in  the  same  plight  as  the  mother.  They 
were  both  covered  with  bruiseS;  scratches,  and  blood, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC, 


227 


with  their  garments  soiled  and  torn.  They  were 
coming  from  Bidwell's  Bar,  a  place  about  forty 
miles  above  Marysville,  in  a  stage-coach,  in  which 
were  nine  Chinamen.  The  coach  was  all  closed,  as 
it  was  rather  cool  in  the  mountains  in  the  evening. 
All  at  once,  they  found  themselves  turning  somer- 
sets. The  coach  was  overtvirned  down  a  steep 
bank. 

All  the  Chinamen,  with  their  long  cues  reaching 
to  their  heels,  were  rolling  and  tumbling  about  in 
the  most  ungraceful  manner  imaginable.  They 
were  vociferating  at  the  top  of  their  voices  in  a 
language  which,  if  spoken  calmly,  and  with  the 
greatest  mellifluence,  is  harsh  and  disagreeable  in 
the  extreme.  And,"  said  she,  such  a  horrid  din 
of  voices  as  rang  in  my  ears,  it  was  scarcely  possible 
to  conceive  of ;  which,  together  with  the  fright,  was 
almost  sufficient  to  deprive  me  of  reason."  The 
driver  was  seriously  hurt,  and  so  were  some  of  the 
horses ;  but  the  inside  passengers  escaped  without 
having  any  limbs  broken,  but  their  cues  were 
awfully  disarranged. 

In  the  dry  season,  there  were  as  many  as  a  dozen 
coaches  which  left  Marysville  every  morning,  and 
as  many  would  arrive  every  evening.  Generally, 
they  were  all  loaded  to  their  utmost  capacity. 


228  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


In  California^  two-thirds  of  the  population  seem 
to  be  constantly  travelling  (in  search  of  new  and 
rich  digginS;  I  suppose).  It  was  quite  amusing  to 
listen  to  the  rigmarole  which  each  driver  had  over^ 
as  they  reined  in  their  horses  in  front  of  the  differ- 
ent hotels.  The  names  of  the  different  localities 
along  their  routes,  which  they  would  sometimes 
work  into  laughable  doggerel,  the  cracking  of  their 
whips,  and  the  jokes  cracked  upon- one  another, 
were  quite  diverting. 

At  the  time  I  was  in  Marysville,  it  was  not  safe 
to  walk  around  in  the  suburbs  of  the  town,  in  a 
dark  evening,  unless  armed.  Late  one  evening,  as 
myself  and  husband  were  riding  into  town,  we  dis- 
tinctly heard  the  cUck  of  a  revolver,  and  two  re- 
ports followed  in  quick  succession.  The  balls  whiz- 
zed past  our  ears,  giving  us  no  very  agreeable  sen- 
sation, I  assure  you.  There  was  no  moon,  but  it 
was  starlight.  Whether  we  were  taken  for  people 
for  whom  some  one  was  lying  in  wait,  with  the 
view  of  plunder  or  murder,  or  for  what  those  shots 
were  fired,  ever  remained  a  mystery  to  us.  At  any 
rate,  it  gave  us  such  a  fright,  I  never  was  caught 
out  there  again  after  dark. 

There  was  one  house  in  Marysville  which  had 
been  in  process  of  erection  four  years,  and^was  not 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


229 


then  completed.  It  was  owned  by  a  wealthy 
Spaniard^  originally  from  South  America.  I  went^ 
one  day;  to  view  this  curious  structure.  Under  it 
were  two  regular  dungeons^  with  heavy  iron  doors, 
which  could  be  doubly  locked  and  barred.  People 
conjectured  they  were  made  for  the  purpose  of 
holding  his  treasures,  of  which  he  was  reputed  to 
possess  hoards.  The  whole  building  was  the  most 
massive,  curious,  complicated  piece  of  architecture 
I  ever  beheld;  and  such  an  air  of  mystery  and 
gloom  as  pervaded  the  whole  place !  It  was  impos- 
sible to  elucidate  the  feelings  one  was  sure  to  have, 
as  they  trc^ersed  those  dismal-looking  rooms.  The 
sight  of  so  much  solid  masonry  seemed  generative 
of  the  darkest  designs.  In  one  room  were  two 
very  large,  deep  wells.  Some  of  the  floors  were 
constructed  of  stone.  The  grounds  were  to  be  in- 
closed by  a  high  wall.  There  were  complicated 
wings,  and  high,  gloomy-looking  turrets,  projecting 
in  every  direction  from  the  main  building.  After 
being  completed,  it  will  present  more  the  appear- 
ance of  a  prison  than  a  private  residence. 

Now,  I  will  relate  one  hen  story ;  not  about  a 
renowned  Shanghai,  but  a  genuine,  old-fashioned, 
yellow  hen.    Hens  at  that  time,  in  California,  were 
among  the  things  to  be  coveted :  the  meanest 
20 


230 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


specimens  were  sold  at  five  dollars  apiece.  Some 
of  the  Spanish  population  kept  quite  a  number  of 
fowl.  A  lady  told  me  she  wanted  to  purchase  a 
male  hen ;  that  an  old  Spaniard  came  to  her  house 
one  day,  who,  she  knew,  had  fowl  to  sell.  She 
could  not  speak  Spanish ;  neither  could  he  English. 
She  was  very  much  perplexed  how  to  make  him 
know  that  she  wanted  a  crower.  She  used  every 
Spanish  word  she  could  think  of  with  no  success  at 
all.  Finally,  she  sprang  up  in  a  chair,  flapped  her 
arms,  and  crowed  with  all  her  might.  That  crow 
enlightened  the  Spaniard  more  than  all  her  Spanish 
vocabulary  had  done.  ^ 

When  I  lived  in  the  canvas  shanty,  a  partition 
of  cloth  ran  across  the  centre  of  the  building.  On 
one  side  of  the  partition  stood  my  bed,  and  on  the 
other  my  brother's.  An  outer  door  opened  into 
this  room.  One  day,  an  old  yellow  hen  walked  in 
very  unceremoniously,  hopped  upon  the  bed,  and 
prepared  to  lay.  Soon  she  jumped  off,  and  left  an 
egg.  She  conducted  the  whole  affair  with  the 
greatest  secrecy,  not  even  indulging  in  that  great- 
est luxury  of  all,  cackling.  Of  course,  I  fed  her, 
very  glad  indeed  of  her  egg,  as  they  were  fifty  cents 
apiece.  The  next  day,  she  came  again,  and  left 
another;  and  so  she  kept  on,  until  she r had  laid 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


231 


twelve ;  when  she  evinced  symptoms  of  a  desire  to 
sit  upon  the  nest.  My  brother  took  her  eggS;  car- 
ried them  out  to  a  ranch;  and  exchanged  them  for 
those  that  would  be  sure  to  hatch.  He  then  placed 
them  in  a  half  barrel  in  the  corner  of  the  room, 
and  set  the  hen  upon  them.  In  due  time  she 
brought  out  twelve  little  chicks.  When  they  were 
about  a  month  old^  I  sold  them  for  a  dollar  apiece. 
She  then  laid  another  litter  of  eggs,  and  was  as 
successful  in  raising  another  brood  of  chickens. 
Then,  as  we  were  going  to  leave  the  shanty,  I  sold 
her,  chickens  and  all,  for  twenty  dollars. 

After  I  had  been  living  at  the  Tremont  some 
time,  I  went  to  my  room  one  day,  and  there,  on  the 
window-seat,  was  perched  the  identical  old  hen  that 
I  had  sold.  My  window  was  open,  and  she  had 
flown  in.  She  appeared  delighted  to  see  me,  and 
evinced  her  delight  by  singing  quite  merrily.  She 
seemed  determined  to  room  with  me,  and  I  allowed 
her  to  remain  until  I  could  go  and  find  the  one  to 
whom  I  sold  her.  He  had  moved,  and  was  not  to 
be  found.  Of  course,  the  hen  was  mine  again ;  but, 
situated  as  I  now  was,  I  could  not  accommodate 
her  with  a  room  in  the  house,  and  for  which  she 
seemed  to  have  a  decided  predilection.  I  therefore 
placed  her  to  board  out  on  a  ranch.   She  continued 


232 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


to  lay  eggs  and  raise  chickens,  until  I  realized,  from 
the  sale  of  them,  forty-five  dollars.  I  then  sold 
her  again  for  five  dollars,  as  she  was  getting  rather 
old.  In  one  week  after  I  sold  her,  she  died,  from 
griefs  I  suppose^  at  being  sold.  From  that  old  yellow 
hen  I  made  quite  ^pile^  as  they  say  in  California. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

I  RECOLLECT  the  exccution  of  one  man  in  Marys- 
ville,  which  created  quite  an  excitement  in  town. 
One  day  my  ears  were  assailed  with  the  most 
piercing  shrieks.  Upon  inquiry,  I  learned  that  a 
man  had  been  arrested  by  the  Vigilance  Commit- 
tee for  stealing.  A  great  crowd  had  collected  in 
the  street  in  front  of  the  committee's  rooms,  among 
whom  was  the  wife  of  the  man  arrested ;  and  hers 
were  the  shrieks  which  rent  the  air.  Two  little 
children  were  following  her,  crying, "  You  shall  not 
hang  my  father !  you  must  not  kill  him ! "  Finally 
the  committee  rendered  him  up  into  the  hands  of 
the  law.  He  had  his  trial,  was  condemned,  and 
sentenced  to  be  hung.  While  he  was  in  jail,  await- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


233 


ing  •  his  execution^  a  lady  in  town  gave  a  little 
party  for  her  children.  While  they  were  taking 
tea,  she  saw  the  tw^o  children  of  the  doomed  man 
going  past.  Pity  for  the  children,  so  soon  to  be 
left  fatherless,  incited  her  to  call  them  in,  and  seat 
them  at  the  table  spread  with  delicacies.  After 
they  had  partaken  of  the  treat,  and  gone  out  to 
play,  the  girl  who  was  clearing  the  table  missed 
one  of  the  silver  spoons.  Something  prompted 
her  to  go  to  those  two  children  to  inquire  for  it. 
She  thought  the  boy  betrayed  signs  of  guilt.  She 
took  hold  of  his  arm,  and  felt  the  spoon  in  his 
jacket-sleeve.  He  cried  bitterly,  and  said  he  did 
not  want  to  steal,  but  his  mother  told  him  if  he 
did  not,  whenever  he  had  an  opportunity,  she 
would  whip  him  severely.  Perhaps  the  father  had 
been  stimulated  to  commit  thefts  by  similar  threats 
from  his  wife  ;  and  certainly,  if  her  evil  propensi- 
ties had  so  far  gained  the  ascendency  as  to  cause 
her  to  instil  such  principles  into  the  minds  of  her 
children,  to  what  evils  would  she  not  resort,  to 
gain  her  object  ? 

The  night  previous  to  the  day  upon  which  he 
was  to  be  executed,  she  made  an  attempt  to  fire 
the  city,  in  the  hope,  doubtless,  that  her  accom- 
plices in  guilt  would  effect  his  liberation  while  the 
20* 


234 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


attention  of  the  citizens  would  be  directed  to  the 
fire.  She  waS;  however,  nnsuccessful.  Had  the 
stable  burnt  which  she  attempted  to  fire,  the  whole 
city  would  probably  have  been  destroyed.  The 
owner  of  the  stable  had  just  returned  from  a  jour- 
ney, and  was  throwing  some  hay  into  the  rack  for 
his  horse.  Iix  the  meantime,  she  approached,  ig- 
nited a  bunch  of  matches,  and  thrust  them  under 
the  side  of  the  building,  directly  against  this  hay- 
rack. It  blazed  up,  which  the  man  no  sooner  saw 
than  he  caught  a  large  blanket,  threw  it  into  the 
rack,  and  jumped  down  upon  it.  By  this  means, 
the  flames  were  extinguished,  but  not,  however, 
without  quite  severely  scorching  the  man.  She 
was  carefully  guarded  after  this. 

The  next  day,  she  beggefl  permission  to  visit  her 
husband  in  his  cell.  She  was  allowed  to  go,  but 
not  alone  ;  but,  somehow  or  other,  she  managed 
(they  supposed)  to  slip  something  into  his  hand, 
for,  a  short  time  after  the  interview,  when  they 
went  to  take  him  to  the  gallows,  they  found  him 
insensible,  whether  from  fear,  or  from  something 
which  he  had  taken,  they  could  not  ascertain. 

He  was  taken  to  the  gallows,  and  the  forms  of 
execution  enacted,  although  he  manifested  no  ap- 
pearance of  life  whatever.    While  this  last  act  was 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


235 


being  performed^  it  required  six  or  seven  -women 
to  hold  the  wife.    She  was  perfectly  frantic. 

Every  day^  for  some  time  after^  might  be  seen 
this  woman^  dressed  in  a  garb  of  the  deepest 
mournings  holding  each  of  her  children  by  the 
hand^  and  traversing  the  streets^  apparently  in 
great  distress.  It  was  thought  she  made  this 
public  display  of  grief  to  excite  sympathy.  Soon 
after  this^  she  disappeared  from  the  city. 

It  often  made  me  feel  sad^  during  my  residence 
in  California;,  to  see  the  people  recently  from  the 
Atlantic  states  so  hopeful  and  buoyant  in  spirits, 
anticipating  such  rich  harvests  of  gold,  with  which 
they  would  return  to  their  homes  and  families^  I 
knew  so  well  the  sufferings  and  hardships  they 
would  be  likely  to  endure  before  they  could  return, 
if  they  ever  did.  But  I  ever  refrained  from  casting 
a  shade  of  melancholy  over  the  bright  future  in 
prospective  by  prophetic  warnings.  I  recollect 
one  gentleman  in  particular^  who  was  so  sanguine 
of  success. 

He  departed  for  the  mines,  and,  in  three  months 
from  that  time,  was  brought  back,  crippled  for  life ! 
While  blasting  rocks,  he  had  one  arm  so  shattered 
that  he  was  obliged  to  have  it  amputated  above 
the  elbow.    Both  eyes  were  rendered  sightless  for 


236 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC, 


life^  and  the  other  hand  and  arm  very  much 
injm^ed.  What  a  pitiable-looking  object  he  was ! 
and  how  he  begged  of  the  doctors  to  use  every 
endeavor  to  save  the  remaining  hand  and  arm ! 
He  had  a  wife  and  three  little  children  in  the  state 
of  Maine^  dependent  on  him  for  a  support.  It  was 
in  vain  the  doctors  tried,  by  extracting  piece  after 
piece  of  splintered  rock,  to  save  the  last  hand.  It 
was  amputated  at  the  wrist.  How  philosophically 
he  bore  his  sufferings !  Not  a  groan  escaped  his 
lips ;  but,  by  the  workings  of  his  countenance,  one 
could  perceive  his  agony  was  extreme.  Money 
was  raised  in  Marysville  sufficient  to  defray  his 
expenses  home ;  and  a  fellow-townsman  of  the 
sufferer  volunteered  to  accompany  him  as  nurse.  I 
never  heard  aught  concerning  him  again. 

I  often  amused  myself  for  hours,  studying,  not 
human  nature,  but  mule  nature.  It  is  really  aston- 
ishing to  witness  those  pack-mules,  and  see  the 
wonderful  knowledge  they  display  by  their  ma- 
noeuvres. In  packing  them  for  a  trip  to  the  moun- 
tains, the  Mexicans  load  them  unmercifully.  They 
make  them  carry  loads  weighing  from  three  hun- 
dred to  three  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  and  strap 
the  articles  on  so  tightly  that  I  should  think  it 
would  stop  their  breaths.    The  poor  creatures  will 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  237 

tremble  under  such  an  unmerciful  load^  and  some- 
titnes  I  have  seen  them^  after  going  a  little  way^ 
fall  from  exhaustion^  and  the  weight  of  their  load. 
Then  those  cruel  Mexicans  would  beat  them,  until 
the  blood  would  run  from  their  noses ;  and^  if  they 
were  very  much  reduced  from  previous  hard  usage^ 
they  would  die^  with  that  heavy  pack  strapped  to 
them.  These  pack-mules  have  such  a  horror  of 
going  with  their  loads  to  the  mountains^  that^  after 
they  are  packed,  and  are  waiting  for  the  remainder 
of  the  train,  (these  trains  sometimes  consist  of 
fifty  and  sixty  mules,)  they  will  endeavor  to 
secrete  themselves  away  behind  some  building  or 
wagon,  and  keep  so  very  still  and  quiet,  seemingly 
listening  and  hoping  they  may  not  be  found.  By 
and  by,  when  the  old,  cruel  Mexican  w^arns  them 
of  his  presence  by  a  heavy  slap  with  the  piece  of 
untanned  hide  he  invariably  carries  in  his  hand, 
accompanied  with  the  expression  of  hippa^  mulct  I 
one  can  almost  see  a  shade  of  the  deepest  despair 
cross  the  poor  mule's  countenance,  as  he  joins  the 
train,  which  is  going  to  travel  many  weary,  tedious 
miles,  over  rough  ihountains,  and  through  deep 
ravines. 

These  trains  are  led  by  a  horse,  with  a  bell 
attached  to  his  neck.    He  is  designated  the  bell- 


238  SCENES  m  the  pacific. 

« 

horse ;  and  these  mules  have  such  an  affection  for 
him^  that  they  will  follow  anywhere  he  goes.  Gen- 
erally^  three  or  four  Mexicans  accompany  each 
train.  When  night  overtakes  them^  they  unpack 
the  animalS;  and  form  a  sort  of  corral  of  the  pack- 
saddleS;  which  they  place  in  a  circle  around  the 
goodS;  which  they  lay  in  piles^  each  load  beside  the 
saddle  upon  which  it  belongs.  The  mules  are 
turned  out  to  graze.  In  the  morning,  after  giving 
them  their  breakfasts,  at  a  signal  from  the  Mexi- 
cans, each  mule  places  himself  in  a  position  to  be 
packed  beside  his  own  saddle ;  and,  what  is  very 
singular,  each  ftiule  knows  his  own  saddle,  and 
never  makes  a  mistake  by  placing  himself  beside 
his  neighbor's. 
^  When  they  return  to  the  valley  again,  they  are 
so  delighted,  that  when  they  get  to  within  a  mile 
or  two  of  the  town,  they  commence  running,  and 
braying  at  the  top  of  their  voices.  And  then  look 
out  for  the  dust !  Such  clouds  of  it  as  they  will 
raise  in  passing  a  house,  is  almost  suffocating.  You 
must  hasten,  and  close  the  doors  and  windows, 
otherwise  the  house  will  be  filled. 

"  As  stubborn  as  a  mule,"  is  an  old  adage ;  and  I 
have  seen  this  maxim  verified  oftentimes.  I  have 
seen  them  so  obstinate,  you  might  kill,  but  never 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


239 


conquer.  Perhaps  it  is  this  stubborn  nature  which 
some  of  them  (not  all)  possess^  that  causes  the  • 
Mexicans  to  be  so  ugly  to  them.  In  order  to  pack 
some  of  them;  they  are  obliged  to  be  chained  and 
blinded.  What  struggles  I  have  seen  between  the 
Mexican  and  his  mule !  I  have  heard  them  say, 
that  a  real  malicious  one  would  purposely  run^  so 
that  he  could  dash  with  great  violence  his  pack 
against  a  rock  or  tree,  and  smash  it  to  pieces ;  then, 
if  it  contained  ought  eatable,  devour  it  with  all 
haste  before  the  driver  could  reach  him.  And 
many  such  ugly  capers  "  are  imputed  to  his  mule- 
ship. 

At  one  time,  there  was  great  excitement  in  the 
mountains  respecting  the  mysterious  disappearance 
of  a  mqp.  named  Dunbar,  who  kept  a  public-house 
on  the  trail  leading  from  Marysville  to  Onion  Val- 
ley, on  Slate  Creek.  These  public-houses,  by  the 
way,  were  nothing  more  than  little  shanties ;  and 
the  only  servant  generally  employed  about  them 
was  a  cook.  Travellers  who  passed  and  rej)assed 
Dunbar's  house,  and  found  no  one  there  but  his 
cook,  (a  young  man  formerly  from  Lowell,  Massa- 
chusetts,) naturally  inquired  for  Dunbar,  and  was 
told  that  he  had  gone  to  San  Francisco.  Finally, 
the  house  was  closed.    Then  suspicions  were  rife 


240 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


that  there  had  been  foul  play.  About  that  time^  as 
*  a  hunter  was  passing  the  deserted  house^  his  dog 
ran  into  the  corral^  and  began  scratching  in  the 
snoW;  and  howling  incessantly.  His  master  in  vain 
tried  to  call  him  away.  He  then  went  to  the  spot, 
dug  away  the  snow,  and  discovered  a  man's  hand 
and  arm  protruding  from  the  earth.  He  dug  away 
the  earth,  and  there  was  the  body  of  Dunbar,  bent 
double,  thus  tied  with  a  rope,  and  stamped  into 
that  slight  excavation. 

The  cook,  very  naturally,  was  the  first  person 
suspected  of  perpetrating  this  horrid  murder.  He 
was  traced  to  San  Francisco  and  arrested,  just  as  he 
was  stepping  on  board  a  steamer  bound  to  Panama. 
He  was  accused  of  the  murder,  appeared  very  much 
agitated,  and  finally  confessed  what  he  knew  about 
the  affair.  One  night,  two  people  came  from  a 
mining  locality  near  by  to  Dunbar's  house,  and  re- 
quested a  night's  lodging.  They  frequently  came 
there,  and  passed  the  night.  That  evening,  they 
played  cards  with  Dunbar ;  and,  in  the  course  of 
the  evening,  he  had  occasion  to  go  to  a  chest  which 
stood  in  the  room,  and  deposit  some  money.  In 
this  chest  was  about  five  thousand  dollars.  Whether 
they  saw  it,  or  whether  he  told  them  he  had  it,  he 
(the  cook)  did  not  know. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  241 

One  of  the  men  came  to  him  in  the  kitchen^  and 
disclosed  their  intentions  of  murdering  Dunbar  that 
night;  and  securing  his  money^  which  they  would 
share  with  him^  if  he  would  take  an  oath  of  eternal 
secrecy ;  if  not,  his  life  would  pay  the  forfeit.  Fear 
compelled  him  to  agree  to  this  proposal.  Just 
then,  Dunbar  and  the  other  villain  came  into  the 
kitchen^  and  advanced  to  the  outer  door ;  where- 
upon the  other  one  caught  up  an  axe  near  by^  and 
struck  Dunbar  a  blow  on  the  back  of  the  head, 
causing  him  to  fall.  Then  followed  another  blow^ 
which  completed  the  work  of  death.  He  was  then 
buried  as  above  described^  and  the  money  taken 
possession  of  by  the  murderers.  Said  he^  They 
offered  me  a  share  of  their  ill-gotten  treasures ;  but 
no  —  I  would  not  pollute  my  fingers  by  receiving 
one  dollar  of  their  blood-stained  gold.  Dunbar  was 
a  friend  to  me^  and  gladly  would  I  have  saved  him 
from  the  horrid  death  which  awaited  him^  had  it 
been  in  my  power  so  to  do ;  but  I  was  paralyzed 
with  terror  at  the  horrid  revelation  to  which  I  had 
just  listened.  When  they  departed^  I  should  have 
hastened  to  some  authority^  and  made  instant  dis- 
closure of  the  whole  transaction ;  but  was  deterred 
from  so  doing  by  the  fear  of  being  mur^Jered  by 
those  fiends  in  human  shape. 

21 


242 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


^^I  then  determined  to  leave  the  country;  which 
determination  I  was  in  the  act  of  putting  into  exe- 
cution when  arrested. 

I  declare  to  you^  I  am  innocent  of  all  or  any 
participation  whatever  in  the  horrid  affair." 

The  two  murderers  were  at  once  arrested.  They 
had  changed  their  place  of  residence^  but  were  soon 
ferreted  out ;  and  all  three  were  sentenced  to  be 
hung  at  Slate  Creek.  My  brother  was  present  at 
the  execution.  The  two  murderers  died  as  they 
had  lived  —  hardened  sinners  —  profaning  and  blas- 
pheming until  the  last. 

The  cook  declared  his  innocence  to  the  latest 
moment^  and  begged^  even  after  the  rope  was 
adjusted  about  his  neck;,  to  be  allowed  to  write  to 
his  wife.  This  boon  was  granted  him.  He  then 
asked  if  he  nlight  make  a  few  remarks.  He  com- 
menced ;  and  so  eloquently  did  he  plead  for  pardon, 
so  heart-softening  were  his  remarks,  that,  had  not 
the  mob  been  so  exasperated  by  previous  horrid 
disclosures  made  by  the  two  murderers,  he  would 
and  ought  to  have  been  pardoned.  They  had  gone 
so  far  as  to  say,  All  who  are  in  favor  of  hanging 
this  man,  go  down  the  hill ;  and  all  who  are  not,  go 
up ; "  and,  as  the  majority  started  to  go  down  the 
hill,  some  of  the  more  ferocious  ones  caught  the 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


243 


rope^  and  ran  with  it;  jerking  him  from  the  ground, 
and  consummating  a  murder  equally  as  cold-blooded 
as  the  one  for  which  that  innocent  man  had  been 
arraigned. 

One  more  story  of  blood  and  murder  I  will  relate, 
and  then  close  the  calendar  of  murders.  As  I  was 
sitting  in  the  parlor,  one  day,  I  saw  the  people  in 
the  street  all  running  towards  the  front  of  the  hotel. 
I  stepped  out  upon  the  balcony  to  ascertain  the 
cause  of  this  unusual  excitement,  and  beheld  a 
sight  that  almost  curdled  the  blood  in  my  veins. 
There  lay  the  form  of  a  man,  dead.  His  clothes 
were  saturated  with  blood;  his  ghastly ^.face  up- 
turned ]  and  upon  his  death-stamped  features  rested 
a  look  of  mortal  agony.  It  was  the  body  of  one 
well  known  in  our  midst.  He  was  coming  from 
one  of  the  mining  bars  above  Marysville,  driving  a 
mule-team,  when  he  was  accosted  by  a  man  whom 
he  overtook  on  the  road  with  a  request  to  give  him 
a  ride ;  which  request  he  accordingly  granted.  The 
stranger  jumped  into  the  wagon,  and  took  a  seat 
behind  the  teamster.  They  conversed  as  they  rode 
along,  until  they  came  to  an  unfrequented  part  of 
the  road,  when  the  stranger  suddenly  plunged  a 
knife  into  the  body  of  the  teamster.  It  was  a 
murderous  blow,  and  carried  death  in  its  unerring 


244 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


aim.  He  robbed  the  dying  man  of  four  hundred 
dollars^  which  he  had  in  his  pockety  and  then 
decamped.  The  man  was  not  instantly  killed^  but, 
before  he  breathed  his  last^  was  found  by  a  trav- 
eller, to  whom  he  told  the  story,  and  also  gave  a 
description  of  the  murderer,  who  was  afterwards 
taken  and  executed.  The  murdered  man  left  a 
wife  and  family  to  mourn  his  loss. 

Many  more  murders,  equally  revolting,  I  might 
recount ;  but  I  have  told  enough  to  give  one  an 
idea  of  the  crime  existing  at  that  time  in  California. 
I  need  not  say,  at  that  time ;  it  still  exists,  and,  I 
fear,  ever  will.  Vigilance  committees  may,  for  a 
while,  intimidate  the  blood-thirsty  villains ;  but 
they  can  never  rid  the  country  of  all  those  pests 
of  society  who  have  there  congregated  to  feast 
their  evil  propensities  upon  the  lives  and  property 
of  the  unwary  and  unsuspecting. 

Early  in  the  year  1849,  an  enterprising,  ener- 
getic young  man,  left  the  town  of  D  situated 

in  one  of  the  "Western  States,  to  seek  his  fortune 
in  California.  He  was  already  in  possession  of  a 
sum  sufficient  to  defray  his  expenses  to  those 
golden  shores,  which  held  forth  so  many  charms  to 
an  adventurous  spirit,  leaving  but  little  remaining 
in  his  purse  uipon  his  arrival. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


245 


Glittering  visions  of  lumps  of  gold  haunted  his 
wakings  as  well  as  sleeping,  moments.  He  was  rest- 
less and  impatient,  until  he  found  himself  bounding 
gayly  over  the  wild,  heaving  billows  of  the  broad 
Atlantic.  Being  an  orphan,  deprived,  at  an  early 
age,  of  the  watchful  tenderness  of  a  mother's  love, 
the  judicious  precepts  and  examples  of  a  father, 
he  had  learned  early  in  life  the  salutary  lesson  of 
self-reliance.  No  sad  yearnings  filled  his  heart,  as 
he  paced  the  steamer's  deck  on  the  eve  of  depart- 
ure. The  delights  and  social  joys  of  a  pleasant 
home  left  behind,  the  remembrance  of  a  loving 
mother's  tearful  farewell,  rose  not  in  his  mind,  to 
cause  the  tear  of  affection  and  regret  to  bedew  his 
cheek.  He  was  leaving  none  behind  to  mourn  his 
departure.  To  him  the  future  looked  bright  and 
beautiful,  as  it  ever  does  to  the  young,  hopeful, 
and  aspiring  heart,  over  which  the  chilling  waves 
and  bitter  disappointments  of  the  cold,  selfish  world 
has  never  rolled. 

There  was  one  passenger  on  board,  who,  from 
his  taciturn,  repulsive  manner,  had  made  no  friends, 
and  formed  no  acquaintances.  A  few  days  before  • 
their  arrival  at  Chagres,  he  was  missed  from  his 
accustomed  seat  at  table.  He  no  more  paced  the 
deck  with  that  quick,  uncertain  tread,  ever  accom- 
2P 


246 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


panied  with  those  nervous^  stealthy  glances  be- 
stowed on  all  around^  and  which  had  occasioned  so 
many  remarks  at  his  expense,  by  no  means  flatter- 
ing or  complimentary.  He  was  confined  to  his 
berth  from  sickness. 

They  reached  the  isthmus  of  Panama.  All  were 
hastening  to  secure  their  passage  upon  the  steamer 
then  waiting  at  Panama  to  convey  them  to  their 
destined  port.  Each  and  all  were  struggling  for 
themselves.  The  party  to  which  the  hero  of  my 
story  had  attached  himself  were  toiling  on  their 
winding  way/'  when  their  attention  was  attracted 
to  a  hammock^  suspended  between  two  trees,  in 
which,  to  all  appearance,  lay  a  man  in  the  agonies 
of  death.  They  hastened  to  his  side,  and  discov- 
ered, to  their  surprise,  the  repulsive  stranger  of 
steamer  memory.  In  a  feeble  voice,  he  besought 
them,  in  mercy,  to  take  him  along,  and  not  leave 
him  to  die  alone !  It  appeared  he  had  employed 
some  natives  to  take  him  across  the  isthmus.  They 
had  quarrelled  among  themselves,  purloined  the 

last  dollar  from  the  sick  man,  (Mr.  B  ,)  and 

,  vamosed,  leaving  him  to  the  fate  which  was  inevi- 
table, unless  he  was  assisted  and  provided  for  im- 
mediately. The  hot  fever-blood  was  coursing  wildly 
through  his  swollen  veins ;  yet  there  was  but  one, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


247 


in  that  company  of  men^  whose  heart  was  touched 
by  the  appeahng  looks  of  the  apparently  dying 
man^  or  whose  eye  moistened  as  the  half-articulate 
words  were  gasped^  Oh !  in  God's  name,  leave  me 
not  here,  to  die  alone  ! " 

As  some  extenuation  for  the  apparently  heart- 
less course  pursued  by  all  that  company  of  emi- 
grantS;  (all  except  one,)  I  will  state  their  relative 
circumstances.  They  had  purchased  their  tickets 
at  an  exorbitant  price,  with  perhaps  the  last  dollar 
at  their  command.  The  steamer  was  waiting ; 
time  was  pressing ;  at  such  a  day  she  was  going  to 
leave  Panama,  and,  if  not  there,  they  lost  their 
passage.  Panama  was  crowded  with  j)eople,  wait- 
ing to  get  even  a  foothold  upon  the  deck  of  any 
floating  craft  that  would  bear  them  to  the  desired 
haven.  The  delay  that  must  necessarily  accrue 
from  assisting  that  suffering  person  would,  in  all 
probability,  cost  them  their  passage,  and  they  would 
be  left  penniless  in  a  foreign  land. 

The  call  of  suffering  humanity  was  counterbal- 
anced by  the  whisperings  of  self  They  sohlo- 
quized,  and  hushed  the  breathings  of  conscience 
with  thoughts  like  these  :  "  I  must  look  to  my  own 
interest.  No  one  would  lend  a  helping  hand  to 
raise  me^  if  I  were  sinking.    He  did  not  make 


248 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


friends  with  us  when  in  health  and  prosperity ;  but 
noW;,  when  he  is  dying,  he  calls  for  succor  from 
those  he  formerly  shunned.  I  cannot  assist  him. 
He  will  probably  die  before  night.    I  must  hurry 

on."    So  they  did  hurry  on,  all  except  Mr.  W  . 

His  heart  was  boiling  over  with  the  ^^milk  of  human 
kindness."  Said  he,  If  I  go  on,  and  leave  this 
man  to  die  alone,  the  image  of  his  pale,  sad  face 
will  be  ever  by  my  side.  The  memory  of  my 
heartless  conduct  will  cast  a  dark  shade  over  my 
whole  future  existence.  I  cannot  and  I  tvill  not  be 
so  soulless." 

In  a  softened  voice  he  addressed  the  now  nearly 
unconscious  man,  and,  taking  the  feverish  hand  in 
his,  said  he, Cease  your  anxiety.  I  will  stay  with 
you,  and  take  care  of  you."  One  by  one,  he  saw 
all  his  company  depart ;  and  he  Avas  alone  with  the 
sick  one,  in  the  unbroken  solitudes  of  a  Granadian 
forest.  He  held  a  flask  of  water  to  the  lips  of  the 
sufferer,  and  bathed  his  fevered  brow.  This  some- 
what revived  him.  Hours  passed  on,  and  they 
were  still  alone.  Finally,  two  Carthaginians  came 
along,  and  were  induced,  by  the  promise  of  a  libe- 
ral reward,  to  carry  the  sick  man  to  Panama. 
After  a  toilsome  journey,  which  well-nigh  proved 
fatal  to  Mr.  B  ,  they  arrived  at  Panama,  but 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


249 


were  too  late  for  the  steamer :  she  had  been  gone 
nearly  a  day.  There  was  no  alternative  but  to 
wait  until  they  could  secure  a  passage  upon  another. 

Mr.  W  's  funds  were  fast  dwindling  away  before 

the  exorbitant  demands  of  the  Panama  ^^land-sharks." 
Who^  among  those  who  were  compelled  to  remain 
there  days  and  weeks^  when  the  tide  of  emigration 
was  rushing  irresistibly  on  towards  the  far-famed 
gold  placers  of  California^  can  ever  forget  the  mer- 
ciless drain  upon  their  purses  ? 

When  able  to  converse^  the  invalid  informed  Mr. 

W          that  he  had  a  valuable  cargo  on  board  a 

vessel  then  on  her  way  around  Cape  Horn ;  and 
that;  upon  her  arrival  at  San  Francisco^  in  j)art 
payment  of  the  debt  of  gratitude  he  owed  to  him^ 
he  (Mr.  W  )  should  receive  a  share  of  the  pro- 
fits derived  from  the  sale  thereof  He  also  spoke 
of  a  failure  in  business  which  had  occufred  a  short 
time  previous  to  his  departure;  but  omitted  to 
mention^  however,  the  fact  that  he  had  acted  very 
dishonestly  as  regarded  that  failure,  and  also  that 
he  had  been  very  unceremoniously  smuggled  on 
board  the  steamer,  to  elude  the  vigilance  of  officers 
of  justice.  He  expected  his  wife  to  join  him  soon 
in  California :  perhaps  she  might  come  on  the  next 
steamer. 


250 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


They  were  detained  in  Panama  four  weeks^  dur- 
ing which  time  he  was  carefully  nursed  by  Mr. 

W  .    In  the  meantime^  his  wife  arrived^,  with 

money  sufficient  to  purchase  a  ticket  for  her  hus- 
band.   Mr.  W          had  not  the  wherewithal  to 

purchase  one ;  therefore^  he  procured  a  situation  as 
waiter  on  board.  Upon  their  arrival  at  San  Fran- 
cisco^ as  the  ship  was  not  due  for  some  two  months, 

Mr.  W         concluded  to  proceed  at  once  to  the 

mines. 

Every  day,  at  that  time,  might  have  been  seen 
little  companies  of  men,  with  their  blankets  and  tin 
pans  strapped  to  their  backs,  commencing  their 
toilsome  march  into  the  interior.  Far  up  those 
mighty  streams  they  wandered,  and  penetrated  far 
into  the  solitary  fastnesses  of  those  mountain  gorges, 
where  the  foot  of  white  man  never  trod  before. 
Forming  one  of  a  party  of  miners  who  followed  the 

course  of  the  American  Eiver,  was  our  friend  W  . 

For  three  weary  months  they  prospected  in  those 
dreary  wilds,  camping  out,  rolling  themselves  in 
their  blankets,  with  no  roof  to  shelter  them  from 
the  night  air.  The  twinkling  stars,  far,  far  above 
them,  peeping  out  a  gentle  good-night  from  the 
aziire  dome,  were  like  messengers  of  hope  to  those 
poor  wayfarers.   Sickness  overtook  them,  and  death 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


251 


thinned  their  numbers.  Out  of  a  company  of  ten, 
but  three  returned  to  San  Francisco.   One  of  those 

three  was  Mr.  W  .    Sick,  disheartened,  and  so 

emaciated  he  could  scarcely  support  his  feeble 
frame,  he  dragged  himself  to  the  door  of  the  only 
hospital  in  San  Francisco,  and  begged  for  admit- 
tance. 

For  many  weeks  he  lay  hovering  at  the  portal 
of  death's  mysterious  door.  Finally,  a  strong  con- 
stitution triumphed :  this  once,  the  destroying  angel 
was  cheated  of  its  prey.  He  recovered  slowly, 
and,  at  the  expiration  of  many  weeks,  found  him- 
self treading  the  streets  of  San  Francisco,  weak, 
penniless,  and  alone  —  alone,  in  a  land  of  strangers. 

He  bethought  himself  of  Mr.  B  ,  made  inquiries 

concerning  him,  and  ascertained  that  the  ship  had 
arrived  which  had  contained  his  property ;  that  he 
had  disposed  of  it  at  an  immense  profit,  and  had 
gone  to  reside  in  Sacramento  city.  Slowly  and 
painfully  he  dragged  his  weakened  frame  to  one 
of  the  piers  from  whence  departed  the  up-river 
boats,  and  gained  a  hearing  with  one  of  the  captains, 
to  whom  he  stated  his  situation.  He  very  kindly 
gave  him  a  passage  to  "  Sac'  city."  When  landed 
upon  the  Levee,  it  was  mid-day.  So  weak  was  he- 
that  it  was  late  in  the  afternoon  before  he  reached 


252 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


the  residence  of  Mr.  B  .    Upon  inquiring  for 

that  gentleman^  Mrs.  B  made  her  appearance. 

She  did  not  recognize  him  at  first,  so  changed  was 
he  by  sickness  and  poverty.  Then,  in  cold,  heart- 
less words,  she  expressed  her  sorrow  at  his  unfor- 
tunate condition,  hoped  he  would  get  along  without 
any  more  sickness,  and  coolly  closed  the  door  in 
his  face. 

Imagine  his  feelings  as  he  turned  from  that  door, 
sick  in  body,  and  sicker  far  at  heart  at  this  display 
of  sordid  selfishness  and  heartless  ingratitude.  He 
crawled  back  again  to  the  Levee,  where  he  remained 
that  night,  supperless,  shelterless,  and  penniless. 
He  again  solicited  a  passage  to  Marysville,  where 
resided  an  acquaintance  of  his  who  kept  a  hotel. 
To  him  he  applied  for  a  situation  to  work ;  for,  sick 
as  he  was,  his  independent  spirit  spurned  the  idea 
of  begging.  He  was  at  once  engaged  to  wash 
dishes  j  for  which  service  he  received  seventy-five 
dollars  per  month.  After  serving  awhile  in  this 
capacity,  he  was  promoted  to  steward,  with  an  in- 
crease of  salary.  From  this  post  he  was  admitted 
as  a  partner  j  and,  from  that  day,  Dame  Fortune  " 
lavished  upon  him  her  richest  gifts. 

Just  three  years  from  the  time  he  composed  his 
wearied  limbs  for  a  night's  rest,  in  the  open  air,  on 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


253 


the  banks  of  the  Sacramento^  he  was  standing  again 
upon  the  same  spot;  but  under  what  different  aus- 
pices! Had  prosperity  changed  his  noble  heart, 
that;  a  Httle  more  than  three  years  ago,  hstened 
and  "  wept  for  others'  woes  "  ?  Ah,  no !  the  same 
generous  impulses  governed  his  every  action.  His 
upright;  honest  principles  grew  and  strengthened 
with  his  fortune;  instead  of  deteriorating;  as  is  often- 
times the  case. 

Curiosity  prompted  him  to  inquire  after  the  wel- 
fare of  Mr.  B  .    He  learned  he  was  a  houseless 

vagabond  around  the  streets  of  San  Francisco. 
From  affluence;  he  was  reduced  to  a  state  of  beg- 
gary. His  wife  had  proved  faithless,  and  decamped 
with  all  the  money  she  could  get.  In  endeavoring 
to  drown  his  sorrow  in  the  intoxicating  cup;  he  had 
lost;  dollar  by  dollar;  the  remainder  of  his  fortune. 
That  for  which  he  had  sacrificed  honor;  princij)le; 
and  every  trait  which  ennobles  and  exalts  man,  had 
"  taken  to  itself  wingS;"  and  the  misguided  man  was 
bereft  of  all  which  renders  life  a  blessing.  From 
this  "  owex  true  "  tale  may  be  deduced  a  moral. 


22 


254 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTEE  XXIII. 

In  the  fall  of  1852^  my  brother  was  in  the  mines, 
on  the  north  fork  of  the  Yuba,  about  one  hundred 
miles  above  Marysville.  As  the  rainy  season  was 
commencing,  and  knowing  his  claims  to  be  on  the 
river,  where  they  could  not  be  worked  except  in 
the  dry  season,  I  was  daily  expecting  him  to  arrive 
in  Marysville,  as  he  had  written  to  that  effect ;  yet 
he  came  not.  Daily  I  heard  accounts  of  large 
quantities  of  snow  falling ;  and  it  finally  fell  to  such 
a  depth,  that  all  communication  with  the  settle- 
ments in  the  mountains  was  cut  off  before  the  win- 
ter's supply  of  provisions  had  been  transported 
thither.  Fears  were  entertained  that  the  mountain 
population  would  suffer  incredibly  for  the  want  of 
food ;  and  so  they  did.  Finally,  a  straggling,  ema- 
ciated, exhausted  party  arrived  in  town  from  Dow- 
nieville,  which  is  eighty  miles  distant  from  Marys- 
ville. 

Fifty  miles  of  the  route  they  had  traversed  over 
snow,  which  lay  to  the  depth  of  ten  and  fifteen 
feet,  and  part  of  the  time  sinking,  at  every  ste]^,  up 
to  their  arm-pits  in  it.  Two  or  three  of  their  num- 
ber had  given  out  and  died  on  the  way.  The 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


255 


reports  they  brought  were  dismal  in  the  extreme. 
They  said  the  entire  male  population  would  be 
obliged  to  leave  Downieville^  and  get  to  Marysville^ 
if  possible^  or  die  in  the  attempt^  as  there  were  only 
provisions  enough  in  town  when  they  left  to  supply 
the  women  and  children. 

What  anxiety  I  felt  on  my  brother's  account, 
knowing  that  he  must  depend  upon  Downieville 
for  his  supplies !  No  tidings  whatever  could  I  ob- 
tain of  him,  and  did  not  for  four  months.  During 
this  time,  remnants  of  parties  were  arriving,  com- 
pletely exhausted,  and  reporting  great  distress  in 
the  mountains.  At  the  expiration  of  that  time, 
the  express-men  opened  for  themselves  a  passage 
through  the  snow.  Then  I  received  a  letter,  stating 
the  following  particulars : 

He  had  made  every  preparation  for  leaving  his 
log  cabin  as  soon  as  there  was  any  appearance  of 
snow,  when  one  of  his  partners  (he  had  two)  was 
violently  seized  with  the  mountain  fever.  Then 
came  the  first  fall  of  snow.  What  could  they  do  ? 
They  could  not  leave  him  to  die  alone,  and  it  was 
impossible  to  move  him.  For  one  month  he  was 
constantly  delirious.  He  had  no  physician  to  attend 
him,  and  there  he  lay,  day  and  night,  talking  to  his 
mother  and  friends  at  home,  in  happy  unconscious- 


256 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


ness  of  his  deplorable  situation.  The  snow  fell 
until  it  lay  to  the  depth  of  fifteen  feet. 

Downieville  was  twenty  miles  distant^  and  thither 
one  of  them  must  go  to  obtain  provisions ;  for  they 
were  entirely  destitute  of  everything  in  the  eatable 
line^  and  almost  destitute  of  money.  They  had 
sent  their  gold  to  Marysville  the  day  before  the 
partner  was  taken  sick^  reserving  only  sufficient  to 
defray  their  expenses  down. 

My  brother  started  to  go  to  Downieville^  pre- 
viously assisting  his  partner  to  tie  the  sick  man  on 
to  his  pallet  of  straw  j  for^  in  moments  of  violent 
delirium^  one  person  could  not  compete  with  him 
in  strength. 

In  an  exhausted  state  he  reached  Downieville, 
and  found  provisions  very  scarce,  and  dear  as  gold 
dust.  For  ham  he  paid  eighty  cents  per  pound ; 
for  flour,  one  dollar  and  a  half  per  pound;  and 
everything  in  a  like  proportion.  For  one  ten 
pounds  of  flour,  which  he  bought  during  the  winter, 
he  paid  twenty-five  dollars.  He  wanted  to  get 
some  corn  meal  to  make  gruel  for  the  sick  man, 
jand  succeeded  in  getting  one  pound,  for  which  he 
paid  the  exorbitant  sum  of  two  dollars. 

With  a  back-load  of  provisions  —  which  weighed 
sixty-one  pounds,  and  cost  one  hundred  dollars  —  he 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


257 


started  back.  Several  times,  on  the  way,  he  felt  as 
if  he  should  never  live  to  reach  the  little  cabin ; 
but  he  finally  arrived  there.  "  Oh/'  said  he,  "  what 
dreary  days  and  nights  we  passed  in  that  log  cabin, 
listening  to  the  meanings  of  the  sick  man,  whom 
we  were  hourly  expecting  to  breathe  his  last,  sur- 
rounded and  hemmed  in  by  impassable  barriers  of 
snow !  We  could  not  wile  away  the  time  evenings 
by  reading,  for  we  had  no  oil  or  candles :  a  little 
grease  in  a  tin  plate,  with  a  rag  in  it,  was  all  we 
had  to  light  in  case  of  emergency.  Our  cabin  was 
completely  covered  with  snow.  We  kept  a  hole 
open  from  the  door  up  to  the  surface.  Mornings, 
upon  going  out,  the  foot-prints  of  large  grisly  bears 
would  be  all  around  in  the  snow,  over  the  top  of 
the  cabin.  When  we  had  consumed  all  the  pro- 
visions which  I  had  taken  up,  we  both  started  again 
for  more,  leaving  the  sick  man  alone ;  but  he  was 
wholly  unconscious,  and  never  knew  of  our  absence. 
What  little  we  could  get  this  time  was  even  higher 
than  before ;  and  the  climate  had  a  tendency  to 
give  us  such  good  appetites.  We  boiled  those  ham 
bones  until  they  were  as  white  as  polished  ivory. 
For  two  or  three  days  we  subsisted  upon  water- 
gruel. 

"  I  then  started  again  for  Downieville,  so  hungry 
22* 


258 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


and  faint;,  I  thought  I  should  never  reach  there.  I 
h^d  no  money ;  but  a  trader  in  Downieville^  who 
was  acquainted  Avith  my  circumstances^  kindly 
offered  to  furnish  me  with  provisions,  upon  credit. 
As  I  was  passing  a  hotel,  I  smelled  the  dinner,  and 
stepped  upon  the  stoop,  wishing  —  oh,  how  earnest- 
ly !  —  that  I  had  the  wherewithal  to  procure  a  din- 
ner. But  I  was  ^  flat  broke,'  as  the  saying  is  there, 
when  one  is  out  of  funds.  Presently  I  was  accosted 
by  a  fellow  who  once  mined  with  me  in  the  coun- 
try. Said  he, '  What  is  the  matter,  Bryant  ?  What 
makes  you  look  so  down-hearted?  Are  you  flat 
broke  ? '  — '  Yes,'  said  I,  '  and  starving,  besides.'  — 
'  Not  while  I  have  the  color,'  said  he,  and  put  five 
dollars  into  my  hand.  With  this  I  bought  myself 
a  good  dinner ;  and  it  was  a  wonder  I  survived  it, 
for  I  assure  you  I  did  eat  some. 

"  Thus  we  lived  on  for  four  long,  weary  months. 
The  fever  settled  in  the  sick  man's  toes,  and  they 
all  decayed.  Finally,  he  began  to  convalesce ;  but 
it  was  six  months  from  the  time  he  was  taken  with 
the  fever  before  he  was  able  to  walk.  How  grate- 
ful he  felt  to  us,  who  had  almost  sacrificed  our  lives 
to  stay  by  and  nurse  him !  He  would  cry,  and  say, 
'  If  I  am  ever  worth  a  fortune,  you  shall  share  it 
with  me.'    Before  I  left  the  country,  he  had  been 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


259 


able  to  earn  a  little  money.  He  came  to  see  me^ 
and  proffered  the  whole^  as  he  said^  to  compensate, 
in  a  measure,  for  my  kindness  to  him.  Of  course, 
I  refused  to  accept  of  one  dollar  j  for  he  then 
looked  too  feeble  to  work. 

"  During  all  these  winter  months,  we  never  shot 
but  one  deer  j  and  then  we  feasted !  The  snow 
lay  to  such  a  depth,  we  could  not  go  hunting ;  and 
game  was  very  scarce,  too. 

"  The  provisions  which  we  consumed  during 
three  months  amounted  to  five  hundred  dollars, 
and  then  never  had  as  much  as  would  satisfy  our 
appetites  at  any  one  meal." 

My  brother  described  the  snow-slides  in  the 
mountains  as  grand  and  frightful.  A  body  of 
snow  would  commence  rolling  at  the  summit  of  a 
mountain,  collecting  and  increasing  in  size  as  it 
rolled,  until  it  came  with  such  velocity,  and  in  such 
a  mass,  that  it  would  snap  off  large  trees  in  its 
descent  as  easily  as  if  they  had  been  whip-sticks. 
One  could  hear  the  rushing,  roaring  sound  it  made, 
for  miles.  It  is  necessary  to  build  their  cabins  in 
such  a  position  that  they  mil  not  be  in  danger  of 
annihilation  from  these  slides.  Cabins  have  been 
swept  away,  and  the  inmates  killed,  by  snow-slides. 

As  soon  as  the  rocks  around  the  cabin  began  to 


260 


SCENES  m  THE  PACIFIC. 


get  bare^  they  began  to  crevice  for  gold.  One 
nighty  while  his  partner  was  preparing  supper,  my 
brother  took  out  seventeen  dollars  (in  little  lumps) 
with  a  crevicing-spoon. 

A  lady  once  told  me,  who  had  lived  in  the 
mountains,  that  every  day,  after  her  housework 
was  done  up,  she  would  take  her  crevicing-spoon, 
and  go  out  among  the  rocks  searching  for  gold. 
She  resided  there  one  year,  and,  during  that  time, 
had  collected  five  hundred  dollars  in  that  way. 

When  the  spring  opened,  my  brother  concluded 
to  remain  through  the  dry  season,  and  for  eighteen 
months  he  was  a  dweller  in  those  mountain  soli- 
tudes, and  not  once  during  that  time  visiting  the 
valley.  In  his  rambles,  one  day,  he  found  the 
skeleton  of  a  human  being.  What  sad  reflections 
the  sight  of  those  bones  called  up !  He  dug  a 
grave,  and  buried  them. 

The  grisly  bears  were  quite  plenty  around  them; 
and  one  day,  while  they  were  out  mining,  "  Old 
Bruin made  a  descent  into  their  cabin,  helping 
himself  to  everything  the  place  contained,  and  over- 
turning tin  pans,  pots,  and  kettles,  and  everything 
within  his  reach.  He  swallowed  all  their  butter, 
for  which  they  had  paid  one  dollar  and  a  half  per 
pound,  and  marched  off,  no  doubt  delighted  with 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


261 


the  feast  he  had  enjoyed  at  the  expense  of  the 
poor  miners.  When  they  returned^  tired  and  hun- 
gry^ to  their  shanty^  to  prepare  their  frugal  meal^ 
they  were  struck  with  the  utmost  consternation 
at  beholding  the  havoc  made  within^  —  by  whom, 
they  readily  conjectured,  for  there  were  his  large 
footprints,  very  conspicuous.  Then  there  was  no 
alternative  but  to  go,  tired  as  they  were,  to  Dow- 
nieville,  (twenty  miles,)  and  back  up  more  provis- 
ions. Then  they  baited  old  Bruin  with  a  piece  of 
meat,  loaded  their  guns,  and  lay  in  wait  for  him  all 
day  and  night ;  but  he  never  came  again.  Whether 
his  digestive  organs  were  incapable  of  performing 
the  necessary  functions  after  such  an  expensive 
feast,  or  whether  he  was  so  cunning  as  to  suspect 
they  would  watch  for  his  return,  they  never  knew. 

At  one  time  an  old  hunter  came  to  their  cabin 
with  his  dog,  and  reported  himself  to  be  very 
expert  at  killing  grislys.  They  took  their  guns, 
and  accompanied  him.  They  soon  routed  an  enor- 
mously large  bear,  whose  roar  seemed  to  shake  the 
earth.  He  first  turned  his  attention  to  the  dog, 
which  appeared  terribly  frightened,  and  ran  away 
as  fast  as  his  legs  would  carry  him.  Then  he  turned 
upon  the  brave  hunters,  who  quickly  followed  the 
example  of  the  dog.    They  fled  to  some  tall  trees, 


262 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


upon  which  there  was  not  a  limb  for  twenty  or 
thirty  feet  from  the  base.  They  exerted  every 
faculty  to  shin  up  those  naked  trunks.  My  brother, 
who  was  not  a  little  frightened^  thought  that^  at 
least,  he  was  twenty  feet  from  the  ground,  when, 
upon  looking  down,  he  found  he  was  not  more 
than  five.  How  he  redoubled  his  efforts  !  for  the 
heax  was  making  after  them  at  a  furious  rate. 
After  clearing  the  field  of  his  antagonists,  and 
giving  two  or  three  tremendous  roars  in  honor  of 
victory,  he  marched  off  into  the  surrounding  forest. 
After  this,  they  were  engaged  in  several  more  * 
successful  bear-hunts. 

At  one  time,  he  was  mining  on  Canon  Creek, 
and  had  occasion  to  cross  the  mountains  to  Slate 
Range.  Many  of  these  mountains  are  perennially 
covered  with  snow.  When  travelling  in  the  moun- 
tains, clothes  more  than  you  have  on  your  back 
are  burdensome  and  unnecessary. 

After  going  a  short  distance  from  the  camp,  he 
hung  an  overcoat  on  the  limb  of  a  tree,  set  his 
carpetrbag  at  the  foot  of  it,  and  buried  what  gold 
he  had  with  him  at  a  short  distance  from  the  tree, 
carefully  noting  the  spot.  He  then  pursued  his 
journey.  Upon  arriving  at  his  destination^  his  min- 
ing operations  detained  him  there  eight  months. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


263 


When  he  returned^  he  found  his  coat  hanging  upon 
the  same  limb;  his  carpet-bag  was  unmolested; 
and  he  found  his  gold  just  as  he  had  left  it. 
ClotheS;  in  the  mountains^  are  no  temptation  to  a 
person's  cupidity^  if  he  has  a  suit  on  his  back. 

At  one  time^  in  company  with  two  or  three 
others^  started  to  go  from  one  mining  locality  to 
another.  They  were  obliged  to  camp  out  for  four 
nights  upon  the  snow ;  and  in  some  of  the  deep 
ravineS;  which  were  filled  by  the  sliding  of  the  snow 
into  them,  they  judged  it  to  be  at  least  fifty  feet  in 
depth.  Nights,  they  would  roll  themselves  in  their 
blankets,  and  lie  down  upon  the  snow,  with  nought 
above  them  but  the  blue  dome  of  the  star-lighted 
heavens,  and  sleep  as  soundly,  and  be  visited  by 
dreams  as  sweet,  as  ever  blessed  their  midnight 
slumbers  in  nicely  carpeted  chambers,  on  beds  of 
down. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Before  I  leave  California,  I  must  give  you  a 
sketch  of  John  Chinaman,  —  not  the  Johns  in 
general,  but  a  particular  John,  who  lived  in  the 


264 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


Tremont  Hotel  as  a  chamber  servant  for  more 
than  a  year.  He  could  talk  good  broken  English, 
was  quick  in  his  motions,  and  very  neat.  I  liked 
John  better  than  any  other  of  the  chamber  ser- 
vants, he  was  so  faithful.  Often  I  would  be  so 
amused  at  his  remarks,  that  I  would  have,  to  stop, 
and  laugh  heartily.  Then-  he  would  look  so  per- 
plexed, and  say, What  you  laughee  so  for,  Missa 
Bessa?"  He  invariably  called  the  name  Bates, 
Bessa. 

He  had  been  in  California  four  years,  during  all 
of  which  time  he  had  been  ou^  to  service,  never 
receiving  less  than  one  hundred  dollars  per  month. 
He  had  about  three  thousand  dollars  out  at  inter- 
est, for  which  he  received  three  per  cent,  a  month. 
He  was  very  penurious,  never  indulging  in  any 
luxury,  save  most  excellent  tea,  which  he  kept  for 
his  own  private  use. 

Sometimes,  when  I  would  be  sick,  he  would 
come  to  my  door,  bringing  a  cup  of  his  tea,  and 
say,  ^^You  drinkee  this,  Missa  Bessa;  make  you 
well  quick."  He  placed  implicit  faith  in  the  heal- 
ing properties  of  his  tea. 

His  money,  his  tea,  and  his  cue  were  his  especial 
delight.  Days  when  he  would  have  a  great  deal 
to  do,  engaging  his  time  until  late  in  the  evening. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


265 


he  would  never  retire^  however  tired  he  might  be^ 
without  first  combings  oiling^  and  braiding  his  cue. 
This  he  kept  coiled  around  on  the  top  of  his  head ; 
and;  instead  of  keej)ing  the  remaining  portion  of 
his  pate  shaved^  as  they  generally  do^  he  allowed 
it  to  groW;  and  kept  it  cut^  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Americans.  When  he  had  his  hat  upon  his  head; 
one  would  never  suppose  he  had  a  cue.  He  was 
the  best-looking  Chinaman  I  ever  saw,  and  came 
from  Ningpo. 

Upon  first  arriving  in  California;  he  went  as 
house  servant  to  Senator  Gwin.  Afterwards;  he 
lived  with  a  Mr.  Peck.  He  would  say  sometimes, 
"  Only  three  very  good  ladees  in  CaUfornee."  — 
"  Who  are  those,  John  ?  "  —  Missa  Gwina,  Missa 
Pecka;  and  Missa  Bessa.  Missa  Gwina;  she  one 
very  good  ladee  j  she  talkeC;  langheC;  all  day  long; 
eat  watermelon;  drink  champagne  5  she  one  very 
good  ladee."  John  seemed  to  estimate  the  qualifi- 
cations of  Mrs.  Gwin  by  the  quantity  of  good  and 
expensive  things  which  she  ate  and  drank.  Water- 
melons Avere  twelve  dollars  apiecC;  and  champagne 
ten  dollars  per  bottle.  Then  he  would  say;  "  Missa 
Pecka  one  very  good  ladeC;  but  she  too  fatter. 
Missa  Bessa;  she  no  too  fatter ;  she  too  smallee,  too 
sickee  (sometimes  I  would  have  ill  turns) ;  she  go 

23 


266 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


home  to  her  mudder ;  me  go  too.  She  too  smallee  ; 
I  be  her  servant."  He  seemed  very  much  attached 
to  me^  and  was  always  ready  and  wiUing  to  wait 
upon  me. 

One  day^  he  was  very  unceremoniously  rushed 
into  matrimony.  The  particulars  of  this  hurried 
marriage  were  as  follows :  John  was  one  day  pass- 
ing along  one  of  the  streets  occupied  mostly  by 
Chinese^  when  his  ears  were  assailed  with  horrid 
screams  which  issued  from  a  building  near  by.  He 
burst  in  the  door^  which  was  fastened^  and  there 
found  a  Canton  Chinaman  unmercifully  beating  one 
of  his  slaves,  a  young  girl  of  about  sixteen  years. 
John,  who  was  very  tender-hearted,  could  not  bear 
to  see  that;  so  he  knocked  down  the  Chinaman, 
took  the  girl,  whom  he  never  saw  until  then,  and 
ran  with  her  to  the  hotel,  and  wanted  me  to  secrete 
her  in  my  room.  It  appears  there  is  an  almost 
deadly  feud  existing  between  the  Canton  and  Ning- 
po  Chinamen.  As  soon  as  the  Canton  Chinaman 
recovered  himself  sufficiently  to  realize  what  had 
happened,  he  collected  about  thirty  of  his  partisans, 
and  started  to  arrest  John  for  assaulting  him,  and 
carrying  off  his  slave. 

This  was  apprehended  by  the  people  at  the  hotel, 
who  all  felt  very  much  interested  for  John.  They 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


267 


told  him^  in  order  to  prevent  the  girl  from  being 
taken  back  by  her  cruel  master^  he  must  marry  her. 
Then  he  could  retain  her  as  his  wife ;  but  could  not 
be  sustained  in  secreting  away  another's  slave.  To 
this  arrangement  John  readily  acquiesced^  and  was 
hurried  off  to  an  esquire ;  an  interpreter  obtained^ 
—  for  the  bride  elect  could  not  articulate  one  word 
of  English,  —  and  the  ceremony  commenced.  When 
John  was  asked  if  he  would  take  that  woman  to  be 
his  wedded  wife,  his  reply  was,  Yes,  me  takee  her : 
me  lovee  her;  she  lovee  me.  Canton  Chinaman 
no  get  her,  no  whipee  her.  Me  be  good  to  her ; 
take  good  care  of  her.  She  be  my  little  wife ! " 
And  he  ran  on  with  such  a  tirade,  they  thought 
they  should  never  check  him. 

They  were  married  before  her  master  found  her ; 
and  therefore  he  never  recovered  his  slave.  John 
had  a  small  house  in  the  back  yard  of  the  hotel, 
and  in  it  he  placed  his  wife.  She  was  not  domestic 
ut  all,  and  there  she  sat  with  her  hands  folded,  when 
not  engaged  in  embroidering.  And  there  I  left 
them  when  I  started  for  the  States. 

Most  of  the  washing  and  ironing  in  California  is 
performed  by  Chinamen.  They  take  the  clothes  to 
the  rivers,  and  beat  thorn  on  stones  and  boards, 
which  they  place  in  particular  positions.  Their 


2G8  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


clothes-lines  are  stretched  all  along  the  banks  of 
the  river.  After  the  articles  are  dry^  they  take 
them  to  their  houses  to  iron.  They  starch  every 
article^  even  to  sheets  and  pillow-slips.  Their  mode 
of  ironing  is  entirely  different  from  anything  I  ever 
before  saw.  They  have  a  copper  vessel^,  shaped 
like  a  sauce-pan^  and  large  enough  to  hold  about 
two  quarts  of  coal.  The  bottom  of  this  vessel  is 
very  thick^  and  highly  polished.  They  fill  it  with 
burning  coal ;  then  take  hold  of  the  handle,  and 
shove  it  back  and  forth  over  the  articles. 

They  have  a  dish  of  water  standing  beside  them, 
to  which  they  put  their  mouths,  and  draw  up  such 
a  quantity  of  the  water,  that  their  cheeks  are  in- 
flated to  their  utmost  capacity.  All  the  while  they 
are  shoving  this  vessel  back  and  forth,  they  are 
blowing  the  water  out  of  their  mouths,  which  falls 
like  spray  upon  the  garment,  and  renders  it  of  an 
equal  dampness.  They  iron  very  smoothly,  and 
the  clothes  have  a  beautiful  polish.  For  ironing 
dresses,  they  have  differently  shaped  sauce-pans. 
They  wear  out  the  clothes  very  much  beating  them 
so;  and  it  is  almost  dangerous  to  stand  in  the 
vicinity  of  their  washing  resorts,  the  shirt-buttons 
fly  so  like  hail-stones. 

There  is  a  place,  a  little  out  from  San  Francisco, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  269 

called  Washerwoman's  Bay,  where  the  Chinamen 
take  all  the  clothes  from  the  city  to  wash.  I  once 
took  a  walk  out  there ;  and,  before  I  came  in  sight 
of  the  bay,  I  heard  the  noise  occasioned  by  the 
clothes  being  thrashed  so  unmercifully.  While  I 
stood  listening,  not  well  assured  of  the  cause  of  that 
peculiar  noise,  a  gentleman  appeared,  coming  in  the 
direction  from  whence  the  sounds  proceeded.  I 
asked  him  what  that  noise  was.  Said  he,  You  are 
in  close  proximity  to  Washerwoman's  Bay ;  and  I 
would  advise  you  to  go  no  farther,  if  you  value 
your  life ;  for  the  shirt-buttons  are  flying  so  thick, 
and  with  such  velocity,  it  is  really  dangerous  to  go 
too  near." 

A  short  time  before  I  Jeft  Marysville,  the  city 
was  visited  by  another  conflagration,  which  came 
very  near  destroying  the  Tremont  Hotel.  It  occur- 
red between  ten  and  eleven  o'clock,  one  Sunday. 
The  fire  originated  in  the  square  directly  opposite 
the  hotel ;  and,  what  wind  there  was  being  fair  to 
bring  it  directly  to  the  house,  the  greatest  conster- 
nation prevailed.  The  ladies  were  all  dressed  to 
attend  church.  They  commenced  packing  their 
things,  and  throwing  them  out  the  doors  and  win- 
dows. The  proprietor  ordered  every  woollen  blan- 
ket in  the  house  to  be  produced,  wet  thoroughly, 
23^' 


270 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


and  then  nailed  them  all  over  that  part  of  the 
house  most  exposed  to  the  flames.  One  part  of 
the  building  had  a  flat  roof^  upon  which  barrels  of 
water  were  kept  standings  also  a  number  of  pails. 
This  roof  was  covered  with  people,  passing  and 
throwing  water  to  prevent  ignition. 

While  this  was  going  on  outside,  the  people  were 
rushing  in,  and  removing  beds  and  furniture.  In 
their  haste  to  remove  large  pieces,  they  tore  down 
partitions,  and  otherwise  injured  the  house ;  break- 
ing out  windows,  sash  and  all,  to  eject  some  piece 
of  furniture.  Individuals  who  had  been  boarding 
in  the  house,  and  had  not  deposited  their  money  in 
the  safe,  ran  to  their  trunks,  took  it  out,  and  gave 
it  to  me  for  safe  keeping.  I  had  my  pockets  so 
filled  with  gold  and  gold  dust,  it  was  really  burthen- 
some  to  move  about.  The  most  valuable  things 
were  removed  out  on  the  plains,  and  I  stood  guard 
over  them ;  for  they  required  strict  watching,  there 
were  so  many  standing  round,  ready  to  take  any- 
thing they  could  lay  their  hands  upon.  Several 
times  the  roof  of  the  hotel  was  on  fire ;  but,  by  the 
strenuous  exertion^  of  the  people,  it  was  extinguish- 
ed.  The  flames  were  darting  over  and  around  it, 
yet  the  building  was  preserved,  at  the  risk,  almost, 
of  their  own  lives.     The  proprietor's  face  was 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  ~  271 

scorched  quite  badly^  as  he  was  ever  in  the  van ; 
and  where  the  most  danger  was,  there  he  was  sure 
to  be  seen.  The  building  was  saved ;  but  what  a 
looking  house  to  return  to  !  Every  part  ran  with 
mud  and  water;  the  partitions  were  demolished^ 
and  windows  broken;  all  the  blankets  which  be- 
longed upon  the  beds^  wet  and  dirty  on  the  outside 
of  the  house.  But  they  soon  dried  ;  and  that  nighty 
by  ten  o'clock^  there  were  beds  ready  to  accommo- 
date a  hundred  persons.  How  we  all  worked !  I 
never  recollect  being  so  tired^  before  or  since^  as  I 
was  that  night.  When  T  left  Marysville^  the  old 
hotel  was  standing  in  all  its  pristine  beauty.  It 
had  withstood  all  the  fires  which  had  visited  Marys- 
ville  during  the  space  of  three  years ;  but  I  had 
only  been  at  home  three  months^  when  tidings 
reached  me  that  it  was  burned  to  the  ground. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

In  the  spring  of  1854, 1  bade  adieu  to  Marysville, 
and  started  for  San  Francisco,  preparatory  to  leaving 
for  the  Atlantic  States.    Three  years  previously,  I 


272 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


had  entered  Marysville^  when  it  was  a  little  town, 
built  mostly  of  canvas.  Distinctly  did  I  recollect 
my  feelings  at  that  time.  All  those  bright  hopes 
and  buoyant  anticipations  —  how  had  they  been 
realized  ?  Alas !  as  are  too  many  of  the  frail  hopes 
of  earth;  they  had  been  blasted  and  blighted  in  the 
bud.  Now  I  left  it  a  large  city,  containing  ten 
thousand  inhabitants.  Blocks  of  brick,  fire-proof 
buildings  had  been  reared ;  churches  also,  whose 
spires  seemed  pointing  to  that  better  land ;  and 
school-houses,  whose  doors  were  thrown  open  to 
receive  hundreds  of  happy  children  who  had  emi- 
grated with  their  parents  to  this  inland  city.  And 
I  left  it  now,  a  sadder  and  a  wiser  woman ;  for  there 
I  had  drunk  deep  draughts  of  sorrow,  and  had 
learned,  by  bitter  experience,  the  fallacy  of  placing 
implicit  confidence  in  earthly  objects. 

I  was  borne  down  those  magnificent  streams  for 
the  last  time  ;  yet  every  object  is  distinctly  daguer- 
reotyped  in  my  mind  as  I  saw  it  then.  Yes!  I 
bade  all  those  scenes  a  final  adieu ;  and  would  that 
I  could  have  bade  farewell  to  heart-troubles  also. 
But  how  tenaciously  they  will  gather  around  the 
fountain  of  memory,  ever  ready  to  spring  to  the 
surface,  at  the  mention  of  some  name,  or  half-for- 
gotten word  cither  of  kindness  or  reproof !    It  was 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


273 


a  bright  May  day^  the  last  I  passed  in  San  Francisco. 
I  met  there  several  of  the  tried^  firm  friends  of 
other  da37^s ;  and  certainly  I  needed  their  support 
and  protection  then^  if  ever.  Varying,  conflicting 
emotions  crowded  so  thick  and  fast  upon  the  tablets 
of  the  brain,  and  so  gained  the  ascendency  over  the 
power  of  self-control,  that  it  was  impossible  for  me 
to  support  my  trembling  frame  without  assistance, 
as  I  walked  down  the  densely  crowded  wharf  to 
get  on  board  the  steamer  that  was  to  convey  me 
from  scenes  of  suffering  to  my  childhood's  happy 
home. 

That  day,  three  steamers  left  that  wharf,  within 
an  hour  of  each  other^  for  the  Atlantic  States,  — 
the  "  Uncle  Sam,"  the  Panama,"  and  the  "  Cortez." 
I  went  on  board  the  Uncle  Sam."  She  was  the 
last  to  leave,  and  was  crowded  with  passengers :  she 
had  on  board  about  eight  hundred  people. 

When  the  gun  was  fired,  —  the  signal  for  depart- 
ure, —  as  the  echo  reverberated  over  the  waters,  I 
fancied  it  to  be  one  unanimous  farewell  emanating 
from  the  breasts  of  all  on  board,  —  a  farewell  to  the 
sunny  vales  and  towering  mountains,  to  the  gold- 
studded  placers  and  majestic  streams,  the  deep  ra- 
vines and  rocky  canons,  of  beloved  California. 

What  different  emotions  swelled  the  bosoms  of 


274 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


those  persons  who  stood  gazing,  perhaps  for  the  last^ 
time^  on  that  great  emporium  of  the  West !  Many 
perhaps^  then  on  board,  hke  myself,  had  threaded 
its  sandy  streets  when  in  its  state  of  infancy ;  had 
viewed  the  scene  from  Telegraph  Hill,  when  nought 
but  canvas  shanties  dotted  the  surface  of  those  val- 
leys, surrounded  by  numerous  sand-hills,  which  had 
since  been  levelled  to  make  room  for  elegant  blocks 
of  granite  buildings,  which  reared  their  stately  pro- 
portions, the  admiration  of  thousands,  and  an  honor 
to  the  energetic  and  enterprising  projectors. 

Some  were  returning,  from  a  residence  in  that 
city  and  country,  to  their  Eastern  homes,  blessed 
with  an  abundance  of  the  shining  metal  which  had 
lured  them  to  its  shores,  and  perhaps  entirely  desti- 
tute of  all  those  principles  of  virtue  and  honesty 
that  ever  shed  a  brilliant  lustre  over  the  human 
mind,  and  give  to  the  humble,  indigent,  and  sorrow- 
stricken,  a  passport  to  a  happy  home  above. 

The  possession  of  wealth  does  not  necessarily 
pervert  the  human  heart ;  and  yet  how  often  do 
we  see  the  possessor  utterly  regardless  of  the  feel- 
ings of  the  worthy  poor !  Wealth  too  often  takes  . 
the  precedence  of  intellect ;  and  many  times  we 
have  seen  the  gifted  mind  struggling  through  years 
of  poverty,  uncheered  by  even  an  encouraging  word 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  275 

from  the  rich,  and  finally  sink  in  obscurity  into  an 
early  grave. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

After  passing  out  at  the  Golden  Gate,  all  three 
of  the  steamers  were  visible,  each  freighted  with  a 
rich  cargo  of  human  beings,  and  cleaving  for  them- 
selves a  pathway  through  the  blue  waters.  The 
"  Uncle  Sam  "  and  Panama were  bound  direct  to 
Panama ;  the  "  Cortez  "  to  San  Juan. 

The  first  night  out  on  board  a  crowded  steamer ! 
Who  that  has  •experienced  it  can  ever  forget  the 
confusion,  the  sea-sickness,  the  dissatisfaction  reign- 
ing among  room-mates,  the  squalling  of  parrots'  the 
crying  of  babies,  and  all  sorts  of  annoyances  inci- 
dent to  the  occasion  ? 

For  a  person  like  myself,  who  was  not  sea-sick, 
and  had  no  babies  to  worry  about,  and  had  only  to 
enact  the  part  of  a  silent  spectator,  the  Babel-likc 
confusion  which  reigned  triumphant  only  served  to 
divert  my  mind  from  my  own  sad  thoughts,  and  I 
began  to  study  the  characters  of  my  room-mates, 
through  the  science  of  physiognomy. 


276 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


In  our  state-room^  which  opened  upon  the  main 
deck^  were  three  berths  and  a  sofa.  My  ticket 
called  for  the  sofa^  which  was  a  nice^  soft,  velvet 
one,  and  far  preferable  to  a  berth.  My  room-mates 
were  an  elderly  lady,  and  her  married  daughter, 
who  had  a  babe  eight  months  old.  Then  there  was 
an  adopted  daughter,  about  sixteen  years  of  age, 
and  a  noisy  parrot.  This  elderly  lady  also  had  a 
son  on  board,  —  a  great,  over-grown  boy,  who  had 
taken  a  second-cabin  passage,  with  the  idea  of 
lodging  in  the  room  with  his  mother. 

The  back  of  the  sofa  could  be  lifted  up,  so  as  to 
form  a  sort  of  shelf  over  the  seat.  This  shelf,  di- 
rectly over  the  person  who  was  lying  upon  the  sofa, 
would  be  decidedly  disagreeable  and  uncomfortable. 
The  mother  planned  for  that  great  boy  to  sleep 
upon  this  shelf,  directly  over  me.  To  this  I,  of 
course,  objected,  knowing  that  he  had  a  berth  pro- 
vided for  him  in  the  second  cabin.  Upon  my  ob- 
jecting, the  mother  became  determined  that  he 
should  sleep  there.  I  then  appealed  to  the  young 
man,  asking  him  if  he  thought  it  would  be  very 
agreeable  to  lodge  in  a  little  state-room,  with  three 
ladies,  a  baby,  and  a  parrot.  He  acknowledged  it 
would  not,  and  refused  to  comply  with  his  mother's 
commands.    Therefore,  I  got  rid  of  him ;  which  by 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


277 


no  means  ingratiated  me  into  favor  with  the  mother, 
who  was  very  petulant  indeed  (owing  to  sea-sick- 
ness, I  presume).  But,  after  she  ascertained  that  I 
would  not  be  imposed  upon,  (if  I  were  little,)  she 
became  quite  affable,  and  lamented  frequently  that 
our  tickets  did  not  call  for  one  and  the  same  room 
on  the  Atlantic  side. 

The  married  daughter  was  a  very  lady-like,  gen- 
teel sort  of  a  person,  totally  dissimilar  from  her 
mother,  and  rather  a  victim  to  her  (the  mother's) 
dictatorial  propensities.  The  adopted  daughter 
was  one  of  those  good-natured,  immovable  sort  of 
persons,  always  pleasant,  yet  doing  about  as  she 
pleased,  although  receiving  a  severe  reprimand 
every  five!  minutes  in  the  day  from  the  old  lady. 
The  baby  was  a  little  darling,  inheriting  his  mother's 
gentle  disposition.  The  parrot  was  not  a  whit  more 
quiet  than  its  mistress.  As  soon  as  day  began  to 
break,  he  would  begin  to  scream,  after  this  fashion : 
"  Come  to  breakfast  5 "  "  Six  o'clock ; "  "  Hot  coffee  ; " 
"  Mother !  mother ! "  and  such  like  expressions.  If 
it  was  amusing  at  first,  it  soon  became  very  annoy- 
ing. There  was  one  parrot  on  board  so  exceedingly 
profane  and  annoying,  that  its  life  was  several  times 
threatened  by  the  passengers  who  roomed  in  close 
proximity  to  it.    The  woman  to  whom  it  belonged 

24 


278  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

valued  it  above  price.  It  could  speak  the  English 
and  Spanish  languages  quite  fluently.  It  used  to  sit 
nights  outside  the  woman's  room.  One  morning, 
she  missed  its  usual  chatter^  went  upon  deck^  and 
it  was  nowhere  "to  be  found.  Then  what  a  time ! 
Every  one  was  ignorant  as  to  its  whereabouts ;  but 
a  close  observer  might  have  detected  a  roguish 
twinkle  lurking  about  the  eyes  of  the  mate  of  the 
ship/as  he  sympathized  with  the  lady  in  her  be- 
reavement. Finally^  the  parrot  was  discovered^ 
made  fast  to  the  mast-head  of  the  ship.  It  was  so 
frightened,  it  did  not  resume  its  usual  chatter  that 
day. 

After  we  had  been  at  sea  a  few  days,  the  weather, 
which  had  been  agreeably  cool,  changed  to  oppres- 
sive heat.  The  air  in  those  little  state-rooms  was 
so  confined  and  unhealthy,  it  behooved  those  who 
were  able,  to  rise  early  in  the  morning,  and  go  upon 
deck  to  inhale  the  balmy  air.  But,  then,  it  was 
rather  unpleasant  to  be  hunted  about  as  we  were 
by  the  sailors,  who  were  washing  down  the  decks. 
We  would  perch  ourselves  upon  something ;  and 
then,  just  as  we  were  congratulating  one  another 
upon  securing  a  nice  seat,  swash  would  come  the 
water  in  torrents,  compelling  us  to  run  for  another 
seat,  which  would  only  afford  us  a  similar  temporary 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


279 


lodgment.  If  we  escaped  without  getting  our  feet 
soaking  wet^  and  our  clothes  somewhat  draggled, 
we  accounted  ourselves  fortunate  in  the  extreme. 
After  the  expiration  of  a  week,  how  the  new  faces 
began  to  appear !  The  decks  began  to  get  c|uite 
crowded.  Some  of  them  looked  as  if  they  had  not 
been  enjoying  themselves  very  well  while  confined 
to  their  state-rooms.  I  had  a  great  deal  of  sympathy 
for  those  afflicted  with  that  disagreeable  nausea; 
yet  I  often  received  kind  wishes,  to  this  effect : 
^^How  I  do  wish  you  could  be  sick^just  for  one 
hour !  You  would  not  look  so  smihng,  if  you  felt 
as  badly  as  I  do."  And  yet  I  was  forced  to  smile, 
when  looking  at  their  wo-begone  countenances. 

There  were  two  or  three  female  cabin  passengers 
very  sick  with  fever ;  and,  oh,  how  they  suffered, 
confined  in  a  close  state-room,  with  a  raging  fever 
consuming  their  very  vitals ! 

One  of  the  greatest  sufferers  was  a  lady  who  had 
been  brought  on  board  on  a  bed.  She  was  djdng 
of  consumption.  She  was  sick  at  home,  and  her 
physician  had  recommended  a  voyage  to  California. 
Thinking  she  might  receive  some  benefit  from  a 
residence  in  that  salubrious  climate,  her  husband 
had  taken  her  there.  She  had  not  remained  there 
long,  before  she  felt  convinced  that  she  must  die. 


280 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


Then  she  begged  —  oh^  how  earnestly!  —  to  be 
taken  home  to  see  her  darling  babes  once  more. 
If  she  could  be  spared  to  clasp  their  little  forms  in 
one  fond  embrace^  she  could  die  happy.  Her  doom 
was  sealed.  Every  day  the  hectic  spot  deepened 
upon  that  ethereal  face ;  the  racking  cough  in- 
creased in  hoUowness  of  sound ;  the  fluctuating 
pulse  grew  fainter.  She  was  fast  hastening  to 
that  bourne  from  whence  no  traveller  returns." 
The  morning  sun  rose  fair^  but  it  shone  upon  a 
death-stamped  countenance  —  upon  loving  lips  for- 
ever silent  —  upon  the  cold  hand  which  gave  no 
returning  pressure.  She  had  passed  away^  with 
the  names  of  her  darlings  upon  her  lips. 

As  the  sun  was  sinking  into  the  western  waters, 
the  steamer's  course  was  stayed.  The  body  of  the 
devoted  wife  and  loving  mother  was  borne  upon 
deck^  covered  by  the  American  flag.  Near  by  stood 
the  bereaved  husband,  whose  heart  seemed  wrung 
with  the  keenest  sorrow.  The  stillness  of  death 
reigned  on  board  that  crowded  steamer.  In  calm, 
serene  accents,  a  minister  of  Christ  breathed  forth 
an  earnest,  heartfelt  prayer ;  and  the  remains  were 
launched  into  the  bosom  of  the  restless  ocean.  A 
splash,  and  all  was  over.  The  waves  which  had 
parted  to  receive  that  form  of  clay  continued  their 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


281 


ceaseless  motion^  and^  by  their  ceaseless  music, 
seemed  to  be  chanting  a  requiem  over  the  mother's 
grave,  far,  far  down,  among  the  coral  dells  and 
pearly  caves  of  old  ocean's  unfathomed  depths  ! 

If  the  spirits  of  departed  friends  are  conversant 
with  our  spirits,  if  they  are  indeed  ministering 
angels  to  those  whom  they  loved  while  in  the 
flesh,  the  midnight  slumbers  of  those  motherless 
babes  that  night  were  blessed  and  sanctified  by 
the  seraphic  presence  of  the  beatified  mother.  In 
their  infant  dreams,  it  is  the  knowledge  of  her 
presence  which  causes  those  radiant  smiles  to  flit 
across  their  fair,  innocent  faces. 

Dear  children !    Many  a  tear  of  sympathy  was 
dropped  at  the  thought  of  their  uncertain  future, 
as  the  revolving  wheels  of  the  steamer  carried  us  ^ 
farther  and  farther  from  their  mother's  grave, 
which  they  could  never  look  upon ! 

In  a  little  while,  all  was  gayety  and  mirth,  bustle 
and  confusion,  singing  and  dancing,  on  board  that 
floating  structure.  This  being  my  first  voyage 
after  the  eventful  fiery  one,  my  feelings  were 
constantly  agitated,  thinking  it  possible  a  recur- 
rence of  those  former  scenes  might  be  enacted. 
There  were  some  on  board  who  were  acquainted 
with  the  history  of  my  voyage  out  to  California ; 
24* 


282 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


and  they  had  repeated  the  story  to  their  friends^ 
until  it  had  gained  quite  an  extensive  circulation 
among  the  ship's  company. 

One  night;  while  seated  in  the  door  of  my  state- 
room^  I  was  very  much  amused  at  the  remarks 
passed  between  two  of  the  sailors^  who  were  laying 
down  hose  upon  the  deck,  as  was  the  usual  custom, 
as  a  precaution  against  fire.  Says  one, "  Dick,  what 
are  you  laying  that  extra  hose  for  ? "  "  Why,"  said 
he,  "  didn't  you  know  there  is  a  woman  on  board 
who  never  went  to  sea  but  what  the  ship  she  was 
on  board  of  burnt  before  reaching  her  destination?"* 
—  "  There  isn't,  though."  —  "  Yes,  there  is ;  and  I 
haven't  the  least  idea  the  Uncle  Sam  will  ever 
reach  Panama."  — Have  you  seen  her  ?  How 
does  she  look  ?  "  —  "I  don't  exactly  know  which 
one  it  is ;  but  they  say  she  looks  just  like  any  other 
woman."  Thus  the  conversation  continued  for  some 
time,  to  my  great  amusement.  But  the  spell  was 
broken;  the  startling  cry  of  ^^Fire! "  was  not  heard  ; 
and  no  event  of  importance  occurred,  by  which  the 
nerves  of  the  most  sensitive  could  be  shocked. 

We  had  two  more  burials  at  sea  before  reaching 
Panama.  They  were  two  firemen,  who  dropped 
dead  while  at  their  posts  of  duty,  during  the 
excessively  hot  weather. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


283 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

After  twelve  days  and  some  hours'  sail  from 
San  Francisco,  the  old,  walled  city  of  Panama  rose 
to  view.  The  steamer's  gun  was  fired ;  she  dropped 
her  anchor ;  and  a  fleet  of  boats  and  bungoes  were 
seen  approaching.  They  neared  and  surrounded 
the  ship.  Most  or  all  of  them  were  manned  by 
swarthy-visaged,  half-naked  Carthaginians,  and  a 
mongrel  race  of  natives,  whose  appearance  and 
gestures  were  equally  as  repulsive. 

Such  a  perfect  Babel  as  that  steamer's  deck 
presented  !  Some  running  to  and  fro,  looking  for 
baggage,  some  bargaining  and  bantering  with  the 
boatmen,  boatmen  fighting  with  one  another  for  a 
berth  next  the  gangways,  ladies  screaming  at  the 
top  of  their  voices,  children  bawling  in  unison,  and 
parrots  joining  in  the  chorus !  Curses  and  oaths, 
singing  and  shouting,  filled  up  the  intervals  of  this 
hurly-burly  scene.  I  stood  agape  with  astonish- 
ment at  witnessing  the  haste  and  recklessness  with 
which  they  rushed,  helter-skelter,  down  the  gang- 
ways, and  tumbled  (some  of  them  headlong)  into 
the  boats.  Mor^  than  one  individual  I  saw  floun- 
dering in  the  water ;  and  carpet-bags  and  valises 
were  floating  about  quite  merrily. 


284 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


The  hideous-looking  boatmen  kept  up  a  contin- 
ual jargon  and  fighting  with  one  another ;  and 
perhaps^  just  as  some  person  was  going  to  step  into 
a  boat^  some  native  would  give  it  a  shove  away, 
and  the  person,  pressed  hard  from  behind,  if  not 
remarkably  nimble,  would  get  a  ducking. 

I  was  determined  to  wait  until  the  last,  rather 
than  go  with  such  a  rush ;  and  I  did  wait,  until  the 
coast  was  clear.  Then  our  party,  which  consisted 
of  four  or  five  ladies  and  gentlemen,  secured  seats 
in  a  boat,  and  bade  good  bye  to  the  Uncle  Sam. 
We  had  gone  but  a  short  distance  from  the  ship, 
when  we  heard  the  report  of  a  gun  booming  over 
the  water.  The  steamer  Panama,  which  left  in 
company  with  us,  had  arrived.  She  had  about 
five  hundred  passengers  on  board ;  and,  with  the 
eight  hundred  who  had  just  left  the  Uncle  Sam, 
the  hotels  in  Panama  would  be  likely  to  be  rather 
crowded.  It  behooved  us  to  hasten,  in  order  to 
secure  a  place  on  the  floor,  if  nowhere  else. 

As  we  neared  the  shore,  the  water  was  full  of 
natives,  who  waded  off  almost  up  to  their  necks, 
surrounded  the  boat,  and  arrested  ij-s  progress. 
The  boatmen  are  agreed  with  the  natives  on  the 
shore  to  manage  thus,  in  order  to  secure  as  many 
pieces  of  money  as  possible.    No  entreaties  or 


♦  - 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  285 

threats  could  induce  the  boatmen  to  budge  one 
inch  nearer  to  the  shore.  There  was  no  alternative 
but  to  place  ourselves  upon  the  backs  of  these 
natives,  and  (as  the  expression  is)  ride  post-back 
to  the  shore.  Before  placing  ourselves  in  this 
rather  unladylike  position,  there  was  much  scream- 
ing, and  laughing,  and  crying,  and  scolding ;  but  it 
all  terminated  in  one  general  post-back  ride  to  the 
shore.  The  natives  being  so  submerged,  one  could 
not  judge  well  of  their  muscular  developments; 
and  some  of  the  more  corpulent  ladies  were  afraid 
to  trust  their  immense  proportions  on  the  back  of 
a  slender  native,  for  fear  of  being  dropped.  This 
accident  did  happen  to  some  of  them  ;  and  it  was 
ever  accompanied  with  much  laughing  and  joking 
at  the  sufferer's  expense.  Finally,  we  were  all 
landed,  —  some  in  one  shape,  and  some  in  another. 
More  than  a  dozen  natives  surrounded  me,  all  hold- 
ing their  hands  for  a  bit,  (ten  cents,)  each  claiming 
the  honor  of  having  carried  me  on  his  back  to  the 
shore.  They  all  bore  such  a  striking  resemblance 
to  one  another,  and  having  on  no  garments  by 
which  they  could  be  distinguished,  I  was  sorely 
troubled  to  know  to  whom  I  was  indebted  for  my 
novel  ride.  It  was  settled,  however,  to  their  satis- 
faction. 


286 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


The  natives  took  our  trunks  upon  their  backs^ 
(not  US;  this  time^)  and  our  party  started  for  the 
Louisiana  Hotel.  When  we  arrived  there^  it  was 
literally  jammed  full  j  but;  knowing  we  should 
fare  no  better  by  going  elsewhere^  we  crowded 
ourselves  in  with  the  multitude. 

This  was  in  the  afternoon;  and  our  appetites 
were  considerably  sharpened  by  the  rather  scantily 
furnished  tables  which  had  been  spread  on  board 
the  steamer  for  one  or  two  days  previous  to  our 
arrival. 

Six  or  seven  of  us  ladies  were  shown  to  a  room 
on  the  second  floor;  which  overlooked  the  court- 
yard in  the  centre  of  the  range  of  buildings.  Each 
story  was  surrounded  by  a  balcony.  Our  room 
had  no  windows;  but  two  very  extensive  doorS; 
which  opened  like  folding-doors  on  to  the  balcony. 
The  partitions  all  through  the  house  only  ran  two 
thirds  of  the  height  to  the  ceiling ;  so  there  was 
plenty  of  ventilation  and  plenty  of  noise  circu- 
lating through  the  house.  There  was  not  a  particle 
of  paint  or  paper  in  the  whole  building.  The 
walls  and  partitions  were  of  rough  boardS;  and 
these  were  all  whitewashed.  The  great  vaulted 
passages  leading  through  the  housC;  and  the  great 
widC;  worn  staircaseS;  presented  a  cheerless  and 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


287 


gloomy  aspect.  In  our  room  were  six  or  seven 
cotS;  over  which  were  thrown  two  sheets  and  a 
straw  pillow  to  each  cot.  This  constituted  the 
entire  stock  of  furniture^  if  we  except  two  old 
rickety  chairs  and  our  trunks. 

From  the  balcony*  opposite  our  door  we  could 
watch  the  proceedings  in  the  cook-room ;  and  it 
was  amusing  to  watch  those  half-naked  natives 
knock  over  the  fowl,  of  which  there  were  numbers 
in  the  back  yard,  about  half-divest  them  of  their 
feathers,  hurry  them  into  a  kettle,  and  by  the  time 
they  were  well  heated  through,  run  with  them  to 
the  tables,  if  they  were  not  met  on  the  way  there 
by  the  half-famished  passengers,  who  would  snatch 
the  half-cooked  viands  from  their  hands,  and  beat 
a  hasty  retreat  to  their  rooms. 

In  vain  we  waited  to  be  summoned  to  supper. 
Finally,  one  of  our  party  made  a  descent  upon  the 
cooks,  and  procured  the  wherewith  to  appease,  in 
a  measure,  our  hunger. 

The  Uncle  Sam's  passengers  had  intended  to  get 
mules,  and  start  that  night  from  Panama  to  cross 
the  isthmus ;  and  this  could  have  been  accom- 
plished, had  not  the  natives  been  so  shrewd.  When 
they  saw  the  steamer  Panama  coming  in  directly 
after  the  Uncle  Sam,  they  rightly  conjectured,  that^ 


288 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


if  they  kept  their  mules  out  of  sight  until  all  from 
both  steamers  were  landed^  there  would  be  such  a 
demand  for  mules  they  could  get  any  price  they 
saw  fit  to  ask.  Therefore^  when  mules  were  called 
for  by  those  of  the  passengers  who  reached  the 
shore  firsts  there  were  none  to  be  found.  No 
entreaty  or  persuasion  could  induce  them  to  bring 
one  forward ;  but  we  were  told  there  would  be 
plenty  on  the  morrow.  That  afternoon  a  party  of 
us  took  a  stroll  around  the  city^  visited  the  oldest 
and  largest  cathedral  in  the  place,  walked  upon 
the  battlements  which  surround  this  ancient  and 
once  flourishing  city,  but  now,  in  many  places, 
wearing  the  aspect  of  decay  and  ruin.  Some  por- 
tions of  the  wall  were  falling  into  ruins ;  but  in 
some  places  it  was  sufficiently  wide  for  two  car- 
riages to  drive  abreast ;  but  there  were  no  vehicles 
there  then.  There  were  the  sentry-boxes,  built  at 
short  intervals  along  the  battlements,  which,  in 
days  gone  by,  had  sheltered  the  wearied  sentinel 
during  his  nightly  patrol. 

I  saw  in  some  places  the  ruins  of  old  churches 
and  convents.  Some  portions  of  the  high  stone 
walls  would  be  standing,  out  of  the  sides  of  which 
were  growing  bushes  and  small  trees.  The  sight 
of  those  trees  growing  out  of  high  stone  walls  at 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  289 

once  attracted  my  attention.  For  how  many  ages 
must  those  old  walls  have  been  exposed  to  burnmg 
suns  and  deluging  rains,  to  have  thus  afforded  sus- 
tenance for  those  scraggy  shrubs  and  trees  !  The 
stones  were  all  moss-grown,  and  rank  vines  w^ere 
running  in  great  profusion  over  the  decaying  ruins. 
An  air  of  silent  desertion  seemed  to  pervade  those 
ruinous  remains,  which  gave  rise  to  melancholy 
reflections.  They  forcibly  reminded  one  of  the 
mutability  of  all  things  earthly.  Just  as  the  set- 
ting suii  was  casting  its  red  beams  upon  the  high 
and  narrow  stained-glass  windows  of  the  rich  old 
cathedral,  we  were  wandering  under  its  vaulted 
roof,  feasting  our  astonished  senses  with  a  sight  of 
the  massive  gold  and  silver  ornaments  which  were 
displayed  in  such  rich  profusion  upon  the  walls. 
What  an  air  of  mystery  and  gloom  seemed  to 
surround  us  !  How  our  voices  echoed  and  rever- 
berated in  the  far-off  niches  and  recesses  of  this 
gloomy-looking  edifice.  Several  times  I  was  star- 
tled by  the  appearance  of  some  old  monk,  with  his 
cowl  closely  drawn,  who  would  start  from  some 
niche  in  the  wall,  where  he  had  remained  unper- 
ceived,  and,  without  uttering  a  word,  hold  out  a 
silver  plate,  whereupon  you  were  expected  to 
deposit  a  piece  of  money.  When  once  more  in 
25 


290 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


the  open  air,  I  experienced  a  sense  of  freedom  from 
the  feehngs  of  mystery  and  gloom,  which  unavoid- 
ably cluster  around  one  while  traversing  those  silent 
cathedrals. 

We  then  repaired  to  the  vestibule  of  a  convent, 
not  with  the  expectation  of  gaining  admittance, 
however.  There  was  a  wooden  frame  which  turned 
in  the  wall,  after  the  manner  of  those  yard-gates 
which  turn  upon  a  pivot,  and  on  which  stood  a 
pitcher  of  water  and  a  glass.  After  drinking,  a 
person  is  expected  to  leave  a  piece  of  money  beside 
the  pitcher.  Every  few  moments,  this  frame  is 
turned  by  an  unseen  hand ;  but,  when  the  pitcher 
and  glass  appear  again,  the  money,  if  there  had 
been  any  beside  it,  had  disappeared. 

It  being  a  moonlight  evening,  several  of  us  ladies, 
accompanied  by  one  gentleman,  started  to  prosecute 
our  walk  through  some  other  parts  of  the  city.  We 
passed  through  several  streets,  or,  as  they  appeared 
to  me,  lanes ;  but  they  looked  so  gloomy !  And, 
then,  those  old  ruins  seemed  such  grand  lurking- 
places  for  the  revengeful  Spaniard,  with  his  mur- 
derous stiletto,  that  we  all  frightened  ourselves  by 
such  imaginings,  and  ran  back  again  to  the  hotel 
as  quickly  as  possible. 

What  a  night  was  that  at  Panama !    So  many 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


291 


returning  Californians^  and  some  such  wild  ones^ 
too !  They  seemed  determined  to  make  night 
hideous  with  their  singing  and  shouting.  There 
was  httle  sleep  for  any  one  in  Panama  that  night. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

As  soon,  as  daylight  dawned,  the  natives  began 
to  swarm  in  the  streets  with  their  mules^  opposite 
to  the  hotels^  and  the  people  commenced  bargaining 
for  the  use  of  them. 

The  railroad  was  completed  from  Aspinwall  to 
within  eighteen  miles  of  Panama.  Eighteen  miles ! 
When  we  came  to  traverse  the  route^  it  seemed 
thirty,  at  least.  As  the  rains  had  commenced,  we 
were  advised  to  travel  the  Cruces  route,  as  the 
Gorgorna  route  would  be  imjDassable  on  account  of 
the  mud. 

Some  of  the  passengers  who  had  before  traversed 
the  Cruces  route  advised  all  the  ladies  to  dispense 
with  the  side-saddle  altogether,  as  it  would  be  ut- 
terly impessible  for  them  to  retain  their  seats,  unless 
upon  the  gentleman's  Spanish  saddle.    Most  of  us 


292  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

were  provided  with  India-rubber  boots^  and  pants^ 
and  a  large  sombrero^  as  a  protection  for  our  heads. 

The  natives  asked  twenty  dollars  for  the  use  of  a 
good^  plump-looking  mule^  to  take  us  to  Obispo,  at^ 
which  place  was  the  terminus  of  the  railroad ;  but 
one  could  get  a  miserable-looking  animal,  which,  in 
all  probability,  would  die  on  the  way,  and  leave  you 
to  prosecute  the  remainder  of  your  journey  on  foot, 
for  twelve  and  fifteen  dollars.  For  my  mule  I  paid 
twenty ;  and,  many  times  during  the  journe}^,  I  had 
occasion  to  congratulate  myself  for  having  secured 
such  a  gentle,  kind,  serviceable  little  animal.  I 
really  became  so  attached  to  him  during  the  jour- 
ney, that  I  parted  from  him  with  regret.  Generally, 
the  natives  from  whom  you  hire  your  mules,  and 
pay  for  them  in  advance,  trot  along  with  the  com- 
pany, and  are  ready,  upon  your  arrival,  to  take  the 
animal. 

There  was  great  frolicking  and  laughing  with 
the  ladies  while  fixing  away  on  the  mules.  I  shall 
never  forget  m?/  feelings  when  I  found  myself  seated 
astride  my  mule,  arrayed  in  boots  and  pants,  with 
my  feet  firmly  planted  in  the  stirrups,  ready  for 
any  emergency. 

About  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  left  the 
hotel,  in  company  with  thirty  or  more  of  the  pas- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


293 


sengers.  They  all  travelled  in  parties  of  thirty  and 
forty  together.  Most  of  the  children  were  carried 
across  by  the  natives.  They  were  seated  astride 
their  necks^  with  their  little  hands  clasped  across 
the  natives'  foreheads ;  while  they  have  hold  of  the 
children's  legs  in  front.  Those  who  have  infants 
generally  get  some  gentleman  to  take  them  in  front 
of  him  on  the  saddle. 

One  of  our  passengers  (a  widow  lady^  with  two 
little  children)  was  very  sick  indeed  when  she 
arrived  at  Panama.  She  was  advised  to  remain 
there  for  the  present ;  but^  although  she  felt  con- 
vinced that  her  days  on  earth  were  numbered^  she 
preferred  to  go  on  with  the  company.  She  was 
placed  in  a  hammock :  each  of  her  little  children 
(one  twelve  months^  and  the  other  three  years) 
were  carried  on  the  backs  of  natives^  who  walked 
by  her  side. 

When  only  six  miles  out  from  Panama^  she 
breathed  her  last-drawn  sigh.  They  stopped;  dug 
a  grave  for  the  mother  by  the  lonely  way-side^  and 
deposited  her  remains  therein.  It  was  a  sad  spec- 
tacle. Well  was  it  for  those  little  orphans  that 
their  extreme  youth  prevented  them  from  realizing 
the  extent  of  their  affliction. 

A  kind-hearted  woman  —  although  the  roughest- 
25* 


294 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


looking  one  in  the  company  —  volunteered  to  take 
charge  of  the  babes  until  they  arrived  in  New  York. 
Upon  arriving  at  Obispo^  a  collection  of  two  hun- 
dred dollars  was  taken  for  the  children.  Often, 
since,  I  have  thought  of  that  lonely  grave  by  the 
way-side,  with  no  stone,  or  even  board,  to  mark  the 
spot,  and  upon  which  no  tear  of  affection  will  ever 
fall.  She  buried  her  husband  in  San  Francisco, 
three  weeks  previous  to  her  departure  for  the  At- 
lantic States.  She  was  getting  home  by  charity ; 
and,  being  a  delicate,  feeble  woman,  could  not  en- 
dure the  fatigue  of  the  journey.  Deep-seated  sor- 
row had  sapped  the  fountains  of  life,  and  she  died 
among  strangers,  far  from  friends  and  home. 

Two  others  of  our  number  died,  and  were  buried 
on  the  way.  One  was  a  gentleman  whose  mule 
had  died,  and  he  was  footing  it  along,  when  he  sud- 
denly fell,  and  expired.  Probably  his  death  was 
caused  by  disease  of  the  heart.  One  steerage  pas- 
senger, who  was  walking  across,  died  from  over- 
heating himself 

For  the  distance  of  six  miles,  our  route  lay  over 
a  good,  paved  road,  and  we  galloped  along,  exceed- 
ingly delighted  with  the  scenery,  our  mules,  and 
the  good  road.  If  this  is  crossing  the  Isthmus," 
said  one,  "  I  shall  never  believe  again  the  horrid 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


295 


accounts  I  have  heard  respecting  the  trip ; "  but; 
before  the  termination  of  the  journey^  she  thought 
the  one-half  had  not  been  told.  Soon  the  road 
became  more  rugged^  and  we  began  to  enter  the 
rocky  defiles,  ascend  the  steep  mountain  passes,  and 
descend  into  dark,  rocky  ravines.  The  sun,  which 
had  been  shining  with  tropical  fervency,  now  with- 
drew his  rays,  and  the  rain  descended  in  torrents. 
The  deafening  thunder  seemed  to  shake  those  old 
mountains  to  their  very  base.  In  an  instant  we 
were  soaking  wet ;  for,  oh,  how  it  did  pour !  In  a 
short  time  it  was  over,  and  the  sun  shining  bright 
and  hot  as  ever.  Two  such  showers  as  this  we 
encountered  during  that  mule-back  trip. 

The  scenery  through  the  mountains  almost  defies 
description.  There  i  are  defiles  through  the  solid 
rock,  so  narrow  as  to  admit  only  one  mule  at  a  time ; 
while,  on  each  side,  the  rocks  rise  to  the  height  of 
fifteen,  twenty,  and,  in  some  places,  thirty  feet. 
These  rocks  are  surmounted  by  tall  trees,  whose 
dense  foliage,  blending  overhead,  completely  ex- 
cludes the  sight  of  the  blue  sky  above. 

Sometimes  these  narrow  passes  are  so  descend- 
ing, as  to  render  it  almost  impossible  to  retain  your 
seat  upon  the  mule.  In  some  places  there  are 
regular  stepping-stones,  into  each  of  which  little 


296 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


little  holes  have  been  worn  by  the  mules'  feet^  that 
so  many  times^  and  oft,  have  traversed  those  dan- 
gerous passes.  I  could  compare  the  descent  to 
nought  but  placing  a  mule  at  the  top  of  a  flight 
of  stairs,  getting  upon  his  back,  and  riding  down. 

Those  mules  are  so  careful  and  sure-footed,  and 
so  well  accustomed  to  travelling  through  those 
frightful  places,  that  there  is  no  necessity  whatever 
of  guiding  them.  You  have  only  to  place  the 
bridle  over  the  pommel  of  the  saddle,  (those  Span- 
ish saddles  have  a  high  pommel  in  front,)  and  look 
out  for  yourself  In  descending,  we  were  obliged 
to  lean  far  back  on  the  animal's  back,  and  grasp 
the  crupper  with  all  our  might.  It  seemed  as  if 
our  safety  depended  solely  upon  the  strength  of 
the  crupper.  How  I  cried  sometimes,  with  fright ! 
but  then  I  was  careful  not  to  let  any  one  see  me, 
and  generally  took  the  time  for  such  ebullition  of 
feeling  when  it  was  raining  hard,  and  the  water 
would  unavoidably  be  coursing  down  my  face. 

How  careful  those  mules  were  !  That  day  I 
learned  to  love  them.  In  going  down  those  rocky 
flights,  they  would  hold  their  heads  low  down,  then 
put  one  foot  over  and  plant  it  firmly  in  one  of 
those  little  holes,  then  the  other  in  the  same  way, 
then  bring  their  hind  feet  on  to  the  same  shelf, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


297 


then  go  down  on  to  another^,  and  so  on  to  the 
bottom.  Then  perhaps  commence^  and  make  an 
ascent  equally  as  toilsome.  They  have  nothing  to 
eat  or  drink  on  the  way^  and  never  once  attempt 
to  nip  the  herbage  that  grows^  in  some  places^  by 
the  way-side. 

OncC;  as  there  were  about  fifty  mules  all  in  a 
line,  ascending  one  of  those  steep  mountain  passes, 
the  one  in  advance,  which  was  laden  with  three 
large  trunks,  made  a  misstep,  and  fell.  These  ani- 
mals are  so  sure-footed  that  they  never  stumble 
except  when  giving  out,  and  never  fall,  unless  to 
die.  This  one  was  very  weak,  and  failing  fast,  but 
might  have  succeeded  in  reaching  the  top  of  this 
dangerous  pass,  had  not  the  trunks  swayed  on  one 
side,  and  hit  the  rocks,  thereby  causing  him  to  fall. 
When  passing  up  those  rocky  flights,  it  is  utterly 
impossible  for  a  mule  to  step  backwards,  off  one  of 
those  shelves,  without  falling,  and  as  utterly  impos- 
sible to  turn  the  mule  about,  on  account  of  the 
extreme  narrowness  of  the  way.  The  fallen  mule, 
in  making  desperate  attempts  to  rise  with  those 
heavy  trunks  lashed  to  him, 'as  a  natural  conse- 
quence kept  falling  back,  thereby  crowding  hard 
upon  those  behind  him.  I  was  seated  on  the  fifth 
mule  in  the  rear  of  the  fallen  one.    Such  a  shout- 


298 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


ing  and  bawling  as  there  was  with  the  natives^ 
who  were  trying  to  disencumber  the  poor  beast  of 
the  trunks^  and^  at  the  same,  prevent  him  from 
throwing  himself  any  farther  back,  as,  by  so  doing, 
he  would  endanger  the  lives  of  those  behind  him. 

How  firmly  my  little  mule  planted  his  feet  upon 
the  shelf  he  was  on,  rounded  himself  into  as  small 
a  compass  as  possible,  and  awaited  his  fate.  He 
seemed  to  comprehend  the  whole ;  and,  by  his 
looks,  I  fancied  he  said,  as  a  token  of  assurance  to 
me,  I  will  die  here  rather  than  take  one  step  back- 
wards." Finally  they  disengaged  the  trunks  from 
the  animal,  and  hoisted  them  up  on  to  the  banks 
above.  As  the  mule  was  evidently  dying,  they 
cut  his  throat,  and  lifted  him  up  also.  This  scene 
detained  us  more  than  an  hour ;  for  those  natives 
seemed  to  make  no  progress  towards  extricating 
the  mule  from  his  painful  position,  but  were  run- 
ning to  and  fro,  bawling  at  the  top  of  their  voices, 
hunting  ropes,  and  ordering  one  another.  The 
passengers  who  were  far  behind  were  calling  loudly 
to  know  what  was  the  cause  of  the  detention. 
Some  were  cursing  the  tardy  natives ;  the  women 
were  crying  with  fear ;  and,  if  a  daguerreotype 
view  could  have  been  taken  of  the  scene,  I  think 
it  would  have  had  a  tendency  to  deter  some 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


299 


from  ever  crossing  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  on  mule- 
back. 

Upon  entering  one  of  those  defiles^  the  natives 
who  are  on  foot  (and  there  are  generally  quite  a 
number  with  each  party)  go  in  advance^  and  keep 
up  a  loud  shoutings  to  prevent  any  party  which 
may  be  coming  in  an  opposite  direction  from 
entering,  as  it  would  be  death  to  one  or  other  of 
the  parties'  mules,  should  they  meet.  We  occa- 
sionally passed  over  the  carcasses  of  mules  in  these 
places,  which  had  been  killed  to  afford  others  a 
passage.  We  were  so  fearful  that  the  natives 
would  not  make  noise  enough,  that  we  joined  in 
the  shouting,  and  felt  truly  grateful  when  we 
emerged  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth. 

The  day  previous  to  our  arrival  at  Panama,  the 
steamer  Illinois  arrived  at  Aspinwall,  with  a  load 
of  passengers  from  New  York  for  California.  In 
crossing,  we  all  met  at  different  points  on  the  way. 

Sometimes,  upon  arriving  at  a  defile,  we  would 
hear  a  loud  shouting  within ;  then  we  would  halt, 
rein  our  mules  out  on  each  side  of  the  way,  and 
await  their  egress.  Some,  upon  emerging  from  the 
defile,  looked  very  much  jaded  and  fatigued;  others 
were  laughing  and  joking.  How  earnestly  we 
eyed  them,  as  they  appeared  one  after  another. 


300 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


thinking  perhaps  we  might  see  some  friend  or 
acquaintance  from  home. 

Upon  thus  meeting,  each  party  would  accost  the 
other  with  all  the  freedom  and  familiarity  of  old 
acquaintances ;  and  some  of  the  remarks  which  were 
passed  were  really  laughable.  Upon  the  back  of 
one  mule  were  seated  two  persons,  a  young  man 
and  an  elderly  woman.  At  sight  of  them,  some 
of  the  gentlemen  of  our  party  hurrahed,  which 
was  answered  by  the  woman  with  a  wave  of  her 
calash,  (she  wore  one  of  those  large  old-fashioned 
green  ones,)  and  a  Hurrah  for  California! "  That 
is  right,"  said  one,  addressing  the  young  man, 
"  take  your  mother  with  you ;  if  we  had,  we  might 
have  been  spared  much  suffering."  And  thus  they 
joked.  Some  who  had  been  rather  unsuccessful 
advised  the  emigrants  to  turn  back,  even  then. 

Why  ?  "  said  they,  "  is  there  not  plenty  of  gold  in 
California  ?  "  "  Yes,  there  is  gold  enough  ;  but 
you  may  not  be  lucky  enough  to  get  any  of  it." 

They  gave  us  no  encouragement  as  to  the  route 
over  which  they  had  passed.  All  said,  ^-  Expect  to 
find  it  as  bad  and  worse  than  you  can  possibly 
conceive  of."   This  was  disheartening,  I  assure  you. 

Sometimes  the  trail  would  be  quite  passable, 
and  then  one  could  enjoy  the  scenery.    The  trop- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


301 


ical  foliage  is  beautiful ;  and  among  the  leaves  and 
branches  were  hopping  birds  of  beautiful  plumage^ 
rendering  the  woods  vocal  with  their  sweetest 
songs.  Monkeys  and  parrots  we  saw  in  abun- 
dance. 

On  the  way  we  passed  several  hotels,  —  nothing 
more  than  canvas  shanties,  with  large  signs  at- 
tached, bearing  the  appellations  of  "  Astor  House/' 
^^St.  Charles  Hotel,"  Revere  House,"  etc.  They 
were  kept  by  Americans,  and  at  them  one  could 
procure  plenty  of  fruit  and  liquors  of  all  kinds ; 
but  the  wise  ones  were  very  abstemious,  as  a  great 
deal  of  the  sickness  on  the  isthmus  is  engendered 
by  eating  and  drinking  to  excess  in  a  climate  so 
excessively  warm. 

Oh,  how  tired  we  grew !  and  yet,  at  every  hotel, 
the  distance  seemed  to  increase  rather  than  de- 
crease. 

Upon  first  entering  the  forests  on  the  isthmus, 
my  attention  was  directed  to  what  looked  like 
ropes  hanging  from  the  trees.  I  soon  found  them 
to  be  vines  that  had  run  up  on  the  trees,  out  on 
the  branches,  and  were  suspended  therefrom  in 
every  direction.  They  were  leafless,  and  the  color 
of  a  rope. 

We  crossed  the  Chagres  River  once  only  before 
26 


302 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


reaching  Obispo.  How  dark  and  deep  it  looked,  as 
we  were  going  down  a  steep  declivity  directly  into 
it !  We  were  assured  it  was  quite  shallow,  and  not 
dangerous  to  ford;  and  that,  if  we  allowed  our 
mules  to  take  their  own  course,  we  should  be  carried 
safely  across. 

One  young  lady  from  Marysville  was  very  much 
frightened,  and  kept  constantly  asserting  that  she 
should  be  drowned,  she  knew.  Upon  reaching  the 
brink  of  the  river,  she  suddenly  reined  in  her  mule, 
just  as  he  was  going  to  step  in.  He  became  offended 
at  such  treatment,  and  shook  her  off  plump  into 
the  river.  Such  a  screaming !  You  would  have 
thought  a  dozen  women  were  in  the  river.  She 
was  brought  out,  and  placed  again  upon  her  mule, 
with  instructions  how  to  proceed,  and  was  carried 
safely  over.  The  water  was  not  up  to  our  stirrups, 
in  the  deepest  place ;  but  it  looked  black  and  deep, 
down  in  that  dark  ravine.  I  breathed  more  freely 
when  safely  across. 

Once  we  came  to  a  little  slough,  over  which  was 
built  a  narrow  bridge  of  poles.  I  happened  to  be 
ahead  at  that  place,  and  called  to  know  whether  I 
should  cross  the  bridge,  or  follow  the  trail  through 
the  slough,  which  looked  very  miry.  They  told  me 
to  let  the  mule  act  his  own  pleasure.   He  first  tried 


SCENES  IN -THE  PACIFIC. 


303 


the  strength  of  the  bridge  by  placing  his  foot  upon 
it,  and  feeling  all  about,  as  far  as  he  could  reach ; 
then  he  turned,  and  went  down  the  trail  to  the 
slough,  and  there  reconnoitred  in  the  same  way ; 
then  he  turned  to  the  bridge  again.  I  concluded 
he  thought  that  the  safest  way  of  crossing.  Upon 
reaching  it,  he  stopped,  made  one  leap,  and  cleared 
it  at  a  bound,  and  came  very  near  clearing  himself 
of  me,  too.  I  was  wholly  unprepared  for  such  an 
emergency,  and  came  very  near  losing  my  equilib- 
rium. All  the  other  mules  came  leaping  over  except 
one,  which,  I  expect,  was  so  far  gone,  he  could  not 
jump.  He  stepped  upon  the  bridge  :  it  broke  be- 
neath his  weight,  and  he  fell.  The  lady  was  thrown 
from  his  back  j  and,  altogether,  there  was  quite  a 
scene. 

After  this,  we  met  two  gentlemen  on  mule-back, 
and  of  them  we  inquired  the  distance  to  Obispo. 
The  reply  from  one  was,  I  should  think  it  was  a 
dozen  miles,  and  the  very  worst  road  you  ever  tra- 
velled." — Oh,  no,"  said  the  other,  not  so  bad  as 
that.  This  is  the  gentleman's  first  trip  to  California. 
When  he  has  crossed  the  Isthmus  two  or  three 
times,  he  will  not  get  so  quickly  discouraged.  It  is 
about  two  miles  to  Obispo ;  and  rather  a  rough 
road,  to  be  sure,  but  not  worse  than  you  have 


304 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


passed,  I  presume."  How  those  cheering  words  re- 
vived my  drooping  spirits!  I  felt  (and  every  lady 
of  the  company,  I  presume,  felt  the  same)  as  if  I 
could  not  retain  my  seat  upon  my  mule  but  a  little 
longer.  Every  part  of  my  body  ached  so  hard,  I 
could  not  tell  where  the  pain  was  most  severe.  If 
I  had  been  placed  upon  the  rack,  and  every  joint 
drawn  asunder,  I  could  not  have  been  much  lamer 
or  sorer  than  I  then  was. 

It  was  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  we  had 
been  riding  since  five  in  the  morning,  without  once 
leaving  our  mules,  over  a  road  which,  for  its  rugged, 
uneven,  and  dangerous  passes,  beggars  description. 

Suddenly  we  heard  the  shrill  whistle  of  a  steam 
engine.  Our  lagging  spirits  revived.  We  toiled 
on,  and  reached  the  top  of  an  eminence  which 
overlooked  the  beautiful  valley  of  Obispo ;  and 
there,  far  below  us,  we  beheld  a  scene  calculated  to 
inspire  the  most  despondent  with  renewed  hope 
and  courage.  There  was  the  terminus  of  the  rail- 
road ;  and  on  the  track  were  twelve  long  cars, 
headed  by  an  engine,  which  was  puffing  and  blow- 
ing, and  sending  forth  whistle  after  whistle,  long, 
loud,  and  clear,  its  echoes  awakening  the  hitherto 
unbroken  solitude  of  the  primeval  forests  of  New 
Granada. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


305 


Those  of  the  company  who  had  sufficient  hfe  and 
strength  remaining  to  make  any  demonstration  of 
joy^  did  so.  As  we  descended  the  mountain^  we 
were  perceived^  and  welcomed  by  firing  of  cannon 
and  loud  cheering. 

Several  hundred  United  States  troops  had  arrived 
there^  en  route  for  California.  They  were  all  out  on 
the  plaza.  Four  or  five  large  American  flags  were 
floating  upon  the  breeze  from  the  roofs  of  large 
temporary  hotels  which  had  been  erected  along  the 
line  of  the  railroad ;  and^  as  fast  as  the  road  pro- 
gressed, they  were  transported  along  to  the  ter- 
minus. Here  I  saw  a  railroad  for  the  first  time 
since  leaving  Baltimore,  a  lapse  of  four  years. 

When  we  arrived  in  the  valley,  and  halted  in 
front  of  the  depot,  I  suppose  our  forlorn,  jaded 
appearance  excited  the  sympathy  of  those  there 
assembled,  for  many  stepped  forward  to  assist  us  in 
dismounting.  They  lifted  us  from  our  saddles,  and 
placed  us,  not  upon  our  feet,  —  for  not  one  of  the 
ladies  in  the  company  could  stand,  —  but  flat  upon 
the  ground  in  the  mud. 

One  lady  in  particular  —  who  rode  nearly  the 
whole  way,  holding  her  babe  on  the  saddle  in  front 
of  her  —  fainted,  the  moment  they  lifted  her  from 
26* 


306 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


her  mule^  and  it  was  a  long  time  before  she  recov- 
ered her  consciousness. 

Upon  leaving  Panama,  she  had  consigned  it  to 
the  care  of  a  gentleman,  who  was  going  to  take  it 
across  the  Isthmus  on  the  saddle  with  himself ;  but 
whose  mule  gave  out,  and  fell  with  him.  In  en- 
deavoring to  save  the  infant  from  injury,  he  received 
several  severe  contusions  on  his  back  and  head, 
from  the  effects  of  which  he  did  not  recover  during 
the  journey  to  New  York.  This  so  frightened  the 
mother,  that  she  took  the  babe  herself ;  and,  in  con- 
sequence of  thus  exerting  her  strength  to  take  care 
of  herself  and  child,  —  when  those  who  had  no  child 
to  attend  to  could  scarcely  retain  their  seats,  —  she 
came  very  near  dying. 

After  remaining  a  few  moments  in  the  mud,  I 
made  an  attempt  to  walk.  I  would  go  a  few  steps, 
and  then  fall ;  pick  myself  up  again,  take  a  few 
more  steps,  and  then  tumble  the  other  way.  I 
attributed  my  inability  to  walk  partly  to  my  India- 
rubber  boots  slipping  on  the  muddy  ground,  and 
partly  to  the  benumbed  and  stiffened  state  of  my 
limbs.  While  I  was  thus  staggering  about  in  the 
vain  endeavor  to  reach  a  hotel,  a  gentleman  came 
along,  picked  me  up,  and  carried  me  to  the  desired 
haven. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


307 


CHAPTEE  XXIX. 

Cars  were  in  readiness  to  take  us  immediately  to 
Aspinwallj  where  the  steamer  North  Star  was  wait- 
ing to  convey  us  to  New  York.  Many  of  the  gen- 
tlemen took  passage  in  them ;  but  the  ladies  w^ere 
too  exhausted  to  think  of  proceeding  farther  that 
day ;  and^  as  the  specie  and  -baggage  had  not  all 
arrived,  there  was  no  danger  of  the  North  Star  sail- 
ing until  the  next  night. 

So  we  all  retired,  and  did  not  rise  again  until  the 
next  morning.  Our  accommodations  at  Obispo 
were  similar  to  those  at  Panama  —  great  rush, 
nothing  to  eat,  and  not  much  to  lie  upon. 

In  the  morning,  as  we  were  well-nigh  famished,  a 
gentleman  of  the  party  invited  a  friend  of  mine 
and  myself  to  breakfast  with  him,  as  he  had  been 
to  the  trouble  of  purchasing  something,  and  hiring 
it  cooked  expressly  for  himself  The  breakfast 
consisted  of  broiled  chicken,  fried  plantains,  and 
eggs.  That  meal  cost  five  dollars,  and  it  was  the 
only  one  I  had  while  at  Obispo.  That  forenoon, 
our  baggage  arrived,  and,  while  out  on  the  plaza,  it 
was  exposed  to  one  of  the  hardest  showers  I  ever 


308 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


witnessed.  Wo  to  the  contents  of  those  trunks 
which  were  not  water-proof ! 

I  must  not  leave  the  beautiful  valley  of  Obispo 
without  descanting  upon  its  loveliness.  It  was  in- 
closed by  lofty  hills^  whose  sides  and  summits  were 
clothed  with  the  most  beautiful  tropical  foliage. 
There  grew  the  tall  palm-tree^  laden  with  its  milky 
fruit ;  the  luscious  pine-apple ;  also  bananas,  and 
plantains  in  abundance. 

There  were,  perhaps,  twenty  native  bamboo-huts, 
thatched  with  the  woven  ^fibre  of  the  j)alm-leaf, 
scattered  about  the  valley  j  around  the  doors  of 
which,  and  under  the  leafy  shade  of  the  lime  and 
palmetto,  lounged  the  indolent  natives,  of  both 
sexes.  And  why  should  they  exert  themselves, 
when  nature  has  so  abundantly  supplied  their 
wants  ? 

They  appeared  perfectly  happy  and  contented  in 
their  ignorance.  No  soaring  aspirations  for  fame 
caused  them  to  pass  sleepless  nighte  and  anxious 
days.  They  were  slaves  to  no  goddess  of  fashion ; 
and,  if  they  had  any  pride,  I  cannot  conceive  to 
what  point  it  tended,  unless  it  was  an  overweening 
desire  to  excel  in  roasting  monkeys.  Oh,  this  was 
a  sunny  spot !  I  can  see  it,  even  now,  in  my  mind's 
eye,  as  it  appeared  when  viewed  from  the  top  of 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


309 


that  mountain  height^  after  a  da;/  of  toilsome  travel. 
That  old  adage^  It  is  always  the  darkest  just  before 
day/'  was  never  more  fully  illustrated  than  when, 
after  such  a  toilsome,  dangerous  day's  ride  as  we 
had  accomplished,  that  lovely,  pleasant  valley  burst 
upon  our  view.  That  last  two  miles  of  mule-back 
travel  I  shall  never  forget.  Whether  it  surpassed 
all  other  portions  of  the  route  in  steep  and  danger- 
ous passes,  or  whether  we  were  so  completely  worn 
out  with,  fatigue,  that  everything  appeared  more 
dark  and  gloomy  than  it  really  was,  I  cannot  say ; 
but  that  old  maxim  kept  ringing  in  my  ears,  and 
cheering  me  on  —  ^^It  is  always  the  darkest  just  * 
before  day."  And,  certainly,  I  could  not  compare 
that  sunshiny  valley,  at  the  terminus  of  our  route, 
to  other  than  the  brightest  day  that  ever  followed 
the  darkest  night. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  wx  seated 
ourselves  in  the  cars  bound  to  Aspinwall.  Those 
cars  on  the  Isthmus  had  cane  seats  and  backs,  and 
were,  therefore,  not  so  comfortable  for  the  sick,  sore, 
and  lame,  as  if  they  had  been  otherwise. 

We  were  borne  over  the  track  quite  slowly,  as 
the  many  short  curves  which  the  road  made  pre- 
vented their  going  with  greater  speed.  The  rail- 
road seemed  to  follow  the  bed  of  the  Chagres  River. 


310 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


We  crossed  it  several  times.  The  scenery  was 
grand  and  sublime,  commingled  with  the  beautiful. 
On  one  side  of  the  track,  perhaps,  a  towering  moun- 
tain raised  its  rocky  sides  far  above  us ;  while,  on 
the  opposite  side,  the  eye  might  wander  far,  far 
down  a  steep  precipice,  causing  a  shudder  to  run 
through  the  frame  at  the  thought  of  an  accident 
occurring  at  such  a  spot. 

How  frightened  the  parrots,  paroquets,  and  mon- 
keys, must  have  been,  when  the  iron  horse  first 
startled  those  leafy  solitudes  with  his  fiery  snort ! 
Never  again  will  profound  stillness  reign  triumphant 
along  the  course  of  the  Chagres  Eiver.  Those 
feathered  songsters,  of  brilliant  plumage,  lured  to 
its  vine^clad  banks  by  the  gentle  ripple  of  its  tiny 
waves,  will  fly,  startled  from  their  leafy  coverts,  at 
the  approach  of  the  iron  steed. 

By  and  by,  the  town  of  Aspinwall  appeared  to 
view.  The  country  all  about  looked  so  sunken  and 
marshy,  as  to  impress  the  beholder  at  once  with  an 
idea  of  its  unhealthy  location.  It  was  quite  a  place, 
however,  and  at  that  time  seemed  to  be  all  alive 
with  people.  We  passed  from  the  cars  directly  on 
board  the  steamer,  as  it  was  near  night,  and  we 
wished  to  get  possession  of  our  rooms  before  sailing. 
I  ascertained  the  steamer  would  not  get  away  before 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  311 

midnight;  as  it  was  an  almost  endless  task  to  select 
the  baggage^  and  get  it  on  board. 

Being  very  weary,  I  concluded  to  lie  down,  and 
get  a  nap  in  the  first  part  of  the  evening,  in  order  to 
be  awake,  and  be  on  deck,  when  we  left  Aspinwall. 

When  next  I  opened  my  eyes,  it  was  broad  day- 
light. Aspinwall  was  far  out  of  sight,  and  we  on 
the  broad  Atlantic. 

Amid  all  the  bustle  and  confusion  preparatory 
to  sailing,  even  firing  of  guns,  I  had  slept  soundly. 
One  lady,  thinking  I  would  like  to  see  Aspinwall 
by  lamp-light,  endeavored  to  awaken  me ;  said  she 
spoke  my  name  several  times,  and  shook  my  arm, 
but  still  I  slept  on ;  and  she  left  me  to  the  enjoy- 
ment of  my  dreams. 
«»  Upon  going  on  deck,  I  met  again  all  the  Uncle 
Sam's  passengers,  and  saw  many  strangers  who  had 
come  on  board  at  Aspinwall.  On  the  North  Star 
I  had  only  two  room-mates,  and  was  minus  baby 
and  parrot. 

Now  that  I  was  on  the  Atlantic,  I  felt  that  the 
distance  between  home  and  myself  would  be  speedily 
annihilated.  Nothing  occurred  worthy  of  note 
during  the  passage ;  and,  on  the  ninth  day  after 
leaving  Aspinwall,  we  made  Sandy  Hook.  It  is 
impossible  to  describe  my  sensations  upon  nearing 


312 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


my  native  land^  after  an  absence  of  foiu^  years.  I 
was  returning  alone^  too^  to  the  home  of  my  youth. 
At  timeS;,  my  feelings  were  overpowering. 

When  the  health  officer  boarded  us^  I  saw  a  sight 
that  would  have  drawn  pity  from  the  breast  of  the 
most  obdurate.  It  appeared  that  at  Aspinwall 
there  had  been  brought  on  board^  and  placed  in 
the  steerage^  three  sick  individuals;,  the  remnant  of 
a  family  of  eight  persons^  who  had  left  New  York 
for  California  a  short  time  previous.  On  their  ar- 
rival at  the  Isthmus^  the  father  and  mother  had 
sickened^  and  died.  The  six  children  started  to 
cross  to  Panama.  They  were  robbed  of  all  their 
money  on  the  way ;  and,  ere  they  arrived  at  Pana- 
ma^  the  two  eldest  brothers  and  one  sister  died^ 
leaving  a  young  brother  and  two  sisters^  penniless 
and  sick.  In  this  condition  they  were  found  by 
some  good  Samaritan^  brought  back  to  Aspinwall^ 
and  placed  on  board  the  North  Star.  They  were 
very  sick  indeed  —  in  fact^  but  just  alive ;  but  their 
sickness  was  not  of  an  infectious  nature. 

While  preparations  were  being  made  to  lower 
away  a  boat  in  which  to  take  them  to  the  hospital, 
they  were  brought  aft,  and  placed  upon  deck.  One 
look  at  those  poor,  sick,  emaciated  children  of  sorrow 
would  so  stamp  itself  upon  the  pages  of  memory, 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


313 


that  long  afterwards  tlieir  ghastly  countenances^ 
with  their  sunken^  hollow  eyes^  ashen  lips^  and 
shrivelled  forms^  would  present  themselves  in  your 
day-dreams  as  well  as  your  night. 

The  eldest  girl  was  about  sixteen  ;  the  other 
might  be  fourteen,  and  the  boy  tw^elve.  Not  two 
months  since,  they  had  left  New  York,  a  healthy, 
happy  family.  Now  the  remaining  three  were 
brought  back  to  die  in  the  hospital.  The  eldest 
girl  died  in  the  boat  while  being  transported  to  the 
hospital.  The  other  two,  I  have  no  doubt,  quickly 
followed  her,  as  they  looked  more  like  tenants  of 
the  tomb  than  aught  else. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  fate  of  those 
two  little  orphans  whose  mother  was  buried  on  the 
Isthmus.  The  kind-hearted  lady  who  took  them  in 
charge  had  faithfully  fulfilled  her  mission.  The 
children  were  vv^ell  and  happy,  in  their  guileless  in- 
nocence. A  collection  was  taken  for  them  on  board 
the  North  Star,  to  the  amount  of  three  hundred 
dollars.  This,  added  to  the  two  hundred  previously 
taken,  was  delivered  up  to  the  lady  who  had  them 
in  charge  5  and  she  was  going  with  them  to  Cincin- 
nati, at  which  place  a  sister  of  the  deceased  mother 
resided,  and  to  whom  the  dying  mother  had  be- 
queathed them. 

27 


314 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

We  neared  the  city  of  New  York.  Soon  its 
domeS;  turrets^  and  spires^  became  more  distinct. 
We  were  fast  nearing  home.  Home  !  How  the 
mention  of  that  word  sent  a  thrill  to  my  heart !  It 
is  scarcely  possible  to  describe  my  feelings  at  that 
time ;  exuberant  joy^  mingled  with  sorrowful  re- 
miniscences which  came  crowding  thick  and  fast 
over  the  ocean  of  memory,  overshadowing  all  the 
bright  hopes  and  sunny  feelings  of  the  heart. 

We  reached  the  wharf  late  in  the  afternoon.  It 
is  needless  to  describe  the  bustle  incident  to  the 
arrival  of  an  ocean  steamer,  crowded  with  passen- 
gers. It  is  enough  to  say,  that  after  being  jammed, 
and  jostled,  and  crushed,  to  your  infinite  satisfac- 
tion, you  find  yourself  on  board  a  hack,  bound  to 
one  of  the  many  hotels  which  intersperse  the  city. 

The  next  day,  I  was  too  sick  to  start  for  home, 
completely  prostrated  by  excitement,  I  suppose. 
The  next  day,  I  left  New  York.  The  following 
morning,  I  neared  my  native  town.  The  station 
was  reached ;  I  left  the  cars.  I  had  purposely  kept 
my  arrival  secret,  the  better  to  take  them  by  sur- 
prise. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


315 


In  returning,  after  a  long  absence,  to  the  home 
of  onr  youth,  we  often  find  ourselves  disappointed. 
A  part  of  the  brightness  is  almost  sure  to  have 
passed  away.  Our  eyes  are  changed,  even  if  the 
things  we  look  upon  remain  the  same.  The  per- 
sons we  have  loved  too  are  sure  to  have  altered, 
and  rarely  for  the  better ;  for,  if  they  be  still  on 
the  bright  side  of  life,  the  rose-bud  is  generally 
more  beautiful  than  the  rose  ;  and,  if  they  be  on 
the  autumnal  side  of  the  hill,  we  shall  have  to 
mark  many  a  leaf  that  has  fallen,  many  a  flower 
that  has  faded  away. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Before  laying  aside  my  pen,  I  am  constrained  to 
say  a  word  regarding  the  moral  tone  of  society  as 
it  existed  in  California  as  early ^as  the  years  1851 
and  1852. 

Recollect,  kind  reader,  that  the  state  of  society 
in  California  at  the  present  day  is  as  unlike  what 
it  was  at  the  time  alluded  to  above  as  are  the 
golden  tints  of  the  eastern  sky  ere  the  glorious 


316 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


orb  of  day  bursts  ripon  the  view,  and  the  dark^ 
portentous  gloom  which  overspreads  the  horizon^ 
presaging  a  coming  storm. 

To  what  cause  could  be  attributed  this  lack  of 
morality^  Avhich  seemed  to  pervade  the  greater 
portion  of  the  community  at  that  early  day^  and 
which  necessarily  dimmed  the  lustre  of  the  bright- 
est gem  in  God's  magnificent  footstool  ?  Was  it 
the  atmospheric  influence  which  surrounded  them  ? 
or  were  the  evil  propensities  of  their  natures  more 
forcibly  displayed  for  the  very  reason  that  they 
felt  themselves  beyond  the  reach  of  all  those  con- 
ventional forms  of  society  which;  in  our  puritanical 
country^  serve  to  restrain^  more  or  less^  the  inherent 
evil  of  our  natures  ? 

Travellers  who  have  wandered  in  the  sunny 
regions  of  a  tropical  clime^  and  have  mingled  with 
the  inhabitants^  can  scarcely  fail  to  perceive  the 
effect  of  that  balmy^  blissful  atmosphere  upon  the 
human  passions.  Their  quicl^^  impulsive  natures^, 
warm  and  generou^s  hearts^  overflowing  with  love 
and  affection ;  the  bewitching  naivete  of  manner 
so  characteristic  of  the  females  has  often  proved  a 
theme  for  the  poet  and  historian. 

California;  although  not  situated  within  the  trop- 
icS;  many  of  its  sunny  vales  possess  all  the  charac- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  '  317 

teristics  of  soil  and  climate^  and  afford  to  one  all 
the  delights  pertaining  to  a  residence  in  those 
genial  climes,  and,  at  the  time  to  which  I  refer, 
many  of  those  captivating  females  had  found  a 
home  within  its  borders. 

It  is  oftentimes  the  case  that  persons  naturally 
pure,  and  possessed  of  good  principles,  by  constant 
intercourse  with  those  whose  nationalities  are  less" 
stringent  with  regard  to  morality,  are  almost  un- 
consciously, as  it  were,  led  to  adopt  customs,  and 
imbibe  sentiments  that  at  first  were  quite  revolting 
to  their  natures. 

Ever  willing  to  place  the  best  construction  upon 
another's  conduct,  I  would  much  rather  infer  that 
all  of  the  evil  which  displays  itself  is  the  result  of 
a  vacillating  mind,  unable  to  withstand  temptation, 
rather  than  of  an  innate  desire  to  set  at  defiance 
the  laws  of  God  and  man. 

Persons  from  all  classes  were  to  be  found  in 
California,  —  the  moral  and  the  immoral,  the  temp- 
ter and  the  tempted.  Well  may  it  call  a  blush  to. 
the  cheek  of  our  own  sex,  when  I  assert  that  the 
immoral  predominated,  as  far  as  the  female  portion 
of  the  community  were  concerned.  I  have  been 
an  unwilling  observer  of  transactions,  which,  had 
they  been  related  to  me,  would  have  shaken  my 
27^ 


318 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


opinion  somewhat  respecting  the  veracity  of  the 
narrator.  Think  of  a  town  in  Cahfornia  where 
the  females  numbered  more  than  two  hundred, 
and  from  that  number  the  pure,  high-minded,  and 
virtuous  could  not  have  selected  more  than  three 
or  four  with  whom  they  could  have  associated,  ^ind 
have  derived  a  sweet  pleasure  in  the  interchange 
of  all  those  ennobling  sentiments  which  shed  such 
a  halo  of  loveliness  around  fair  woman's  shrine: 

Now,  it  is  characteristic  of  my  humble  self  to 
illustrate  every  subject  by  relating  some  event 
which  has  come  under  my  personal  observation, 
and  which  will,  I  think,  serve  to  interest. 

Among  the  first  who  emigrated  from  the  city  of 
Boston  to  the  western  El  Dorado  were  a  mother 
and  daughter. 

The  daughter,  yet  scarcely  fifteen  years  of  age, 
gave  promise  of  extreme'  loveliness.  Carefully 
had  that  mother  guarded  her,  lest  a  too  early 
acquaintance  with  the  chilling  realities  of  life 
.  should  rob  her  young  and  guileless  heart  of  a  ^ 
portion  of  its  pristine  purity  and  undimmed  faith. 

Of  that  mother's  early  history  but  little  was 
known ;  yet  it  was  often  whispered  by  the  gossip- 
ing ones  that  the  remembrance  of  her  own  sad, 
youthful  experience  had  given  that  shade  of  mel- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


319 


anclioly^  that  tinge  of  sadness^  which  at  times 
shaded  so  deeply  her  yet  fair  brow.  Whatever 
had  been  her  bitter  trials  and  disappointments^  it 
was  evident  to  a  casual  observer  that  the  whole 
wealth  of  her  affections^  the  deep^  unfathomable 
love  of  a  mother's  heart  were  centred  on  the  well- 
being  of  her  only  child. 

The  better  to  acquire  a  competency^  wherewith 
to  surround  the  loved  one  with  all  those  appliances 
of  comfort  so  desirable  to  a  young  and  beautiful 
girl^  the  mother  determined  to  seek  a  home  within 
the  precincts  of  the  Golden  State."  Better^  far 
bett^r^  had  she  immured  herself  and  child  in  the 
catacombs  of  Eome  than  thus  to  have  launched 
their  frail  bark  upon  the  golden  wave  of  a  Cali- 
fornia sea,  ^ 

The  most  ambitious  votary  of  admiration  there 
at  that  time  must  have  been  satisfied^  and  even 
satiated^  with  the  amount  of  homage^  adulation, 
and  heartless  flattery,  which  was  poured  into  their 
too  willino;  ears.  One  can  realize  the  danofer 
likely  to  be  incurred  by  placing  a  young,  lovely, 
and  attractive  female  in  a  country  w^here  virtue 
was  regarded  by  the  mass  only  as  a  name,  and 
while  she  was  yet  too  young  to  discriminate  be- 
tween the  respectful  homage  of  sensible  gentlemen 


320 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC, 

A.  > 


and  the  soul-sickening,  hypocritical^  despicable  flat- 
teries which  often  flow  so  smoothly  from  under  the 
moustache  of  the  soulless^  vanity-puffed,  shallow- 
brained  apology "  for  a  man.  One  saw  many  of 
those  specimens  in  a  day's  walk  through  the  city 
of  San  Francisco,  and  also  in  her  sister  cities. 

Nightly  they  would  convene  in  those  gilded  halls 
of  iniquity,  and  pursue  their  soul-killing  avocation. 
To  be  sure,  they  nightly  won  their  thousands,  little 
caring  for  the  mental  agony  of  their  victims,  whom 
they  had  robbed  of  the  last  ounce  of  dust,  which 
they  had  been  months,  perhaps,  accumulating,  and 
which  they  had  intended  to  have  transmitted  to 
their  families  in  their  far  distant  homes.  Wait 
patiently,  wife  and  little  ones,  —  wait  patiently  for 
the  father  and  husband  to  learn  the  best  and  most 
effective  lesson  ever  taught  by  that  inexorable 
schoolmaster,  experience  !  If  his  first  lesson  is 
severe  indeed,  as  a  general  thing,  he  is  not  over 
anxious  to  risk  a  second  recital,  and  the  absent  wife 
may  hope  again  to  welcome  his  loved  image  to  the 
now  sorrowful  home. 

These  professed  gamblers  are  never  content  with 
ruining  those  of  their  own  sex,  but  are  ever  on  the 
alert  and  the  watch  for  victims  from  among  the 
youthful,  unsophisticated,  and  beautiful  of  the  oppo- 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


321 


site  sex ;  and  Lillie  Lee  was  far  too  captivating  to 
remain  long  in  obscurity. 

Notwithstanding  the  vigilance  of  her  mother^  she 
had  formed  an  acquaintance  with  one  of  the  most 
enticing  of  the  gambling  brotherhood.  For  weeks 
and  months  he  had  been  gradually  gaining  a  strong 
foothold  upon  her  affections,  by  practising  all  those 
insidious  arts  which  too  often  successfully  entrap 
the  uninitiated.  He  knew  he  was. beloved,  and, 
knowing  that,  felt  secure  of  his  victim. 

The  affection  bestowed  upon  that  dissolute  game- 
ster was  deserving  a  better  object.  Upon  the  prom- 
ise of  a  speedy  marriage,  she  left  her  mother's  roof ; 
and  together  they  fled  to  one  of  the  interior  towns. 

Who  can  graphically  describe  that  mother's  an- 
guish, upon  learning  the  flight  of  her  darling? 
Within  a  few  hours  of  their  departure,  the  bereaved, 
heart-broken,  and  nearly  frantic  woman  was  on  the 
track  of  the  seducer  and  his  victim.  She  arrived 
about  midnight  at  the  town  where  the  fugitives 
had  taken  up  their  abode.  After  travelling  nearly 
thirty-six  hours  without  once  tasting  food,  or  taking 
any  rest,  this  grief-stricken  woman  procured  a  suit- 
able disguise,  and,  arming  herself  with  a  Colt's 
revolver/'  started  on  her  mission  of  death. 

Grief  had  rendered  her  frantic,  and,  in  the  des- 


322 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


peration  of  tlie  moment^  she  had  made  a  vow,  and 
registered  it  on  the  tablet  of  a  broken  hearty  that 
she  would  avenge  her  daughter's  ruin  by  taking 
the  life  of  her  seducer ;  forgetting,  in  the  frenzy  of 
excitement^  that  she  was  assuming  a  power  never 
intended  to  be  usurped  by  the  sinful  children  of 
earth. 

She  threaded  her  lonely  way  through  the  nearly 
deserted  streets  of  that  inland  city,  never  wavering 
in  her  murderous  intentions,  until  she  paused  at 
the  entrance  of  one  of  those  brilliantly  lighted 
gambling-saloons  which  spread  their  contaminating 
influence  on  all  around.  She  entered,  expecting 
and  hoping  to  find  the  object  of  pursuit  engaged 
in  his  nefarious  vocation.  She  saw,  however,  only 
the  usual  appurtenances  of  these  houses  of  sin. 
Elegantly  attired  women,  within  whose  natures  long 
since  had  expired  the  last  flickering  spark  of  femi- 
nine modesty,  were  seated,  dealing  cards  at  a  game 
of  Faro  or  Lansquenet,  and,  by  their  winning  smile 
and  enticing  manner,  inducing  hundreds  of  men  to 
stake  their  all  upon  their  tables.  The  stricken 
mother  passed  through  the  crowd,  but  could  no- 
where see  the  object  of  her  search. 

In  this  manner  she  visijted  all  the  houses  of  like 
reputation,  with  similar  success.    By  some  means . 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


323 


or  other^  she  obtained  a  clue  to  their  whereabouts, 
reached  the  door  of  their  roonij  and,  in  a  disguised 
voice,  demanded  admittance.  After  a  long  delay, 
the  door  was  opened,  and  the  despoiled  and  despoiler 
met  face  to  face.  Quicker  than  thought,  the  re- 
volver was  levelled  at  his  breast,  when  a  piercing 
shriek  broke  on  the  stillness  of  the  night,  and  the 
words,  "  Mother !  oh,  mother !  in  Heaven's  name, 
desist ! "  burst,  in  tones  of  concentrated  anguish, 
from  the  affrighted  girl.  In  an  instant  she  had 
thrown  herself  between  the  parties,  and  was  im- 
ploring her  mother  to  spare  the  life  of  him  she 
loved. 

What  p^wer  had  changed  that  mother's  anger  to 
grief  too  deep  for  utterance  ?  Was  it  the  vivid  re- 
collection of  a  similar  scene,  enacted  long,  long  ago, 
in  which  she  had  participated  ?  Did  the  form  of 
her  kind  and  sainted  mother  rise  before  her  ?  Yes ; 
she  beheld  again,  in  fancy,  that  calm,  sad  face,  the 
memory  of  which  had  often  disturbed  her  midnight 
slumbers.  These  harrowing  recollections  of  the 
would-be-forgotten  past  were  quite  too  overpower- 
ing. It  was  long  before  she  was  restared  to  con-  • 
sciousness ;  and  not  until  repeatedly  assured  by  that 
deeply  dyed  villain,  that  he  would  make  ample  ' 
restitution  by  marrying  her  daughter,  could  she  be 


324 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


persuaded  to  return  to  her  hotel.  The  earnest 
pleadings  of  the  mother  could  not  induce  the  infatu- 
ated girl  to  separate  from  her  lover.  The  mother 
returned  to  San  Francisco. 

Months  flew  by^  scarcely  heeded  by  the  happy 
child.  The  long-deferred  marriage  proved  no  source 
of  grief  to  her.  She  hved^  and  was  happy.  She 
had  so  much  confidence  in  his  honor^  that  she  felt 
certain  he  would  marry  her.  Honor !  what  a 
desecration  of  the  word^  when  used  in  connection 
with  such  a  fiend  in  human  shape  ! 

Perhaps  he  would  have  married  her^  —  for  he 
seemed  happy  only  when  in  her  presence^  —  if  he 
had  not  been  indissolubly  bound  to  another.  Lillie 
had  yet  to  learn  that  stunning  truth.  It  must  be 
so ;  yet  how  he  trembled,  and  shrank  from  making 
a  disclosure,  which,  he  well  knew,  would  chill  the 
very  life-blood  in  her  ^^ins ! 

The  wife  of  his  youth,  tired  of  living  alone  in 
her  distant  home,  had  formed  the  determination  to 
join  her  husband,  and  follow  his  fortunes  in  the 
Golden  Empire."  Her  decision  was  irrevocable. 
Even  the  time  was  appointed  when  he  should  meet 
her  at  the  bay.  He  felt,  at  times,  like  flying  with 
Lillie  to  parts  unknown  ;  "for,  depraved  as  he  was, 
she,  by  her  artless,  winning  ways,  and  rich  wealth 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  325 

of  affection^  had  stirred  the  long-dormant  fountain 
of  love  in  his  bosom.  Yes^  now  was  coming  his 
hour  of  retribution  ;  for  he  loved  Lillic;  and  must 
leave  her  to  the  fate  that  almost  always  attends 
the  deeply  erring.  Time  was  pressing ;  he  must 
reveal  all.  It  was  done ;  and  for  hours  she  sat  like 
one  petrified.  She  could  only  articulate^ Mother ! 
mother !  receive  again  your  heart-broken  child  !  " 

They  left,  that  day,  for  San  Francisco,  —  he,  to 
meet  his  injured,  unloved  wife ;  she,  to  be  received 
in  the  arnjs  of  her  wronged,  but  still  loving  mother. 
Under  the  influence  of  a  powerful  narcotic,  which 
had  been  administered  at  her  own  option,  she  was 
conveyed  to  her  mother's  house ;  and  there  we 
will  leave  her  for  the  present. 

Behold  how  majestically  that  mammoth  ocean 
steamer  cuts  her  way  through  the  sparkling  waters 
of  the  bay!  Now  she  gracefully  turns  her  prow 
towards  one  of  the  piers,  that  is  crowded  with 
people.  What  varied  emotions  fill  the  bosoms  of 
those  there  assembled !  Some  are  eagerly,  anx- 
iously, expecting  the  loved  wife,  from  whom  they 
have  been  separated,  perhaps  for  years ;  others, 
dreading,  fearing,  to  meet  those  whom  they  have 
ceased  to  love,  and  wish  they  may  never  behold 
again.  There  were  many  who  had  formed  conneo- 
28 


1' 


326  SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

tions  there  that  were  hard  to  sever  j  and  among 
the  last  named  we  find  LilHe's  lover.  On  the 
steamer's  deck  stood  his  wife^  all  eagerness  to  greet 
her  husband  after  a  two  years'  separation. 

The  meeting  once  over^  he  felt  he  could  sustain 
his  part  no  longer.  Pitiable  wife !  Henceforth 
she  must  be  content  with  a  bountiful  supply  of 
pocket  money.  She  may  revel  in  luxury^  be  sur- 
rounded with  splendor^  have  every  wish  gratified 
but  the  one  yearning  desire  to  possess  her  hus- 
band's love.  That  was  denied  to  her.  She  felt 
the  estrangement  keenly.  What  a  miserable  life 
was  hers  !  Night  after  nighty  as  her  aching  head 
pressed  her  lonely  pillow^  she  prayed  that  death 
might  end  her  sufferings. 

Early  morn,  perhaps,  would  bring  her  husband 
home.  Perchance  his  only  word  of  salutation 
would  be,  "  Well,  wife,  last  night  I  won  two,  three, 
or  four  thousand  dollars,"  just  as  the  case  might 
be  ;  for  he  was  one  of  those  successful  gamblers 
who  are  well  versed  in  all  the  tricks  used  to  de- 
fraud the  unwary.  Yes,  his  coffers  were  heaped 
high  with  his  ill-gotten  treasures !  What  cared  the 
wife  for  riches,  if  she  must  ever  be  treated  with 
that  cold,  studied  politeness,  always  so  freezing  to 
the  loving  recipient  ? 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC.  327 

Daily  I  was  an  unwilling  witness  to  the  inward 
struggles^  the  pent-up  grief;  of  the  proud  woman^ 
for  we  both  resided  under  one  roof  She  had 
learned  all;  everything.  Whispered  rumors  were 
borne  to  her  ears ;  and  from  some  source  she  had 
learned  where  was  bestowed  the  affection  which 
of  right  belonged  to  her. 

In  the  interim;  what  had  become  of  Lillie  ?  Had 
she  repented  of  her  sin,  and  chosen  purity's  white 
robe;  with  which  to  deck  her  faultless  figure  ?  Ah; 
no  !  She  did  not  possess  moral  courage  sufficient 
to  brave  the  heartless  sarcasm;  the  keen  reproach; 
of  that  class  who  are  ever  ready  to  judge  their 
fellow-mortalS;  and  who  ever  forget  that  divine 
precept  which  teaches  us  that  ^'  to  err  is  human ; 
to  forgivO;  divine."  And  theU;  after  taking  the 
first  step  in  wickedness;  it  is  much  easier  to  follow 
on  in  the  downward  track;  than  it  is  to  turii;  and 
tread  the  flowery  path  of  purity;  which  leads  to 
the  mansion  of  happiness. 

After  the  lapse  of  a  few  monthS;  she  returned  to 
the  inland  city ;  "  for;"  she  remarked;  "  it  is  some 
pleasure  to  breathe  the  same  atmosphere;  to  trav- 
erse the  same  streetS;  and  frequent  the  same  places 
of  resort  as  the  dearly  loved."  She  rushed  reck- 
lessly into  dissipation.    Her  extreme  beauty;  and 


328 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


her  adventurous^  fearless  course  of  conduct^  won 
for  her  a  widely  extended  reputation. 

One  day  she  would  appear  in  splendid  Turkish 
costume^  which  admirably  displayed  her  tiny  little 
foot  encased  in  richly  embroidered  satin  slippers. 
Thus  would  she  promenade  the  thronged  thorough- 
fares of  the  city^  the  observed  of  all  observers. 
Again  she  might  be  seen,  superbly  dressed  after 
the  fashion  of  that  class  of  people  denominated 
fast  men."  How  gracefully  she  held  the  ribbons, 
and  with  what  dexterity  she  managed  her  spirited 
horse,  as  she  dashed  madly  on  over  the  broad 
plains  which  surrounded  the  city.  In  the  use  of 
the  cigarita  she  equalled,  in  point  of  fascination, 
the  dark-eyed  Spanish  women. 

I  have  seen  her  mounted  on  a  glossy,  lithe- 
limbed  race-horse,  —  one  that  had  won  for  her 
many  thousands  on  the  course,  —  habited  in  a 
closely-fitting  riding-dress  of  black  velvet,  orna- 
mented with  a  hundred  and  fifty  gold  buttons,  a 
hat  from  which  depended  magnificent  sable  plumes, 
and,  over  her  face,  a  short  white  lace  veil  of  the 
'  richest  texture,  so  gossamer-like,  one  could  almost 
see  the  fire  of  passion  flashing  from  the  depths  of 
her  dark,  lustrous  eyes.  She  took  all  captive. 
Gold  and  diamonds  were  showered  upon  her.  Her 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


329 


ringing,  musical  laugh  seemed  the  signal  at  which 
trouble;  care^  and  sorrow  fled  away  and  hid  them- 
selves. Lilhe  was  not  souUesS;  or  heartless  either ; 
but  yet  the  hilarity  of  despair  seemed  to  have  fast 
possession  of  her.  Many  a  tear  has  fallen  at  the 
thought  of  her  sad  future. 

The  unloved  wife,  finding  that  all  efforts  to 
reclaim  her»  husband's  love  proved  futile,  decided 
to  return  to  the  home  of  her  youth.  She  took 
passage  from  San  Francisco  in  a  steamer  upon 
which  Lillie's  mother  had  also  secured  her  passage ; 
for,  despairing  of  ever  reclaiming  her  daughter, 
she  was  hastening  to  leave  a  country  Vvdiere  so 
much  existed  to  remind  her  of  her  fallen  child. 
Thus  were  these  two  sorrowing  females  thrown 
together  on  ship-board ;  yet  neither  by  word  or 
look  did  they  recognize  each  other.  The  mother 
still  cherished  the  same  revengeful  feelings  towards 
the  seducer ;  and  the  proud  wife  rejected  the  idea 
of  allowing,  even  for  a  moment,  the  mother  of  one 
who  unconsciously  had  been  instrumental  in  caus- 
ing the  sky  of  her  existence  to  be  shrouded  in 
dark,  impenetrable  gloom,  to  suspect  that  she  was 
suffering  from  unrequited  affection. 

The  husband  was  happy  again  with  Lillie,  until 
about  two  years  after  his  wife's  departure,  when 
28* 


330 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


he  was  unceremoniously  hurried  into  the  presence 
of  his  Maker.  He  met  his  death  by  the  glittering 
knife  of  one  whom  he  had  defrauded  of  his  last 
ounce  of  dust.  The  one  to  whom  he  had  done  the 
greatest  injury,  the  most  irreparable  wrong,  wept 
bitter  tears  of  anguish  over  his  unhonored  grave. 

There  were  many  beautiful,  depraved  women  in 
California  who^  previous  to  leaving  their  homes  in 
the  Atlantic  States^  had  lived  virtuous  lives ;  many 
who  had  been  the  light  and  the  life  of  the  home 
circle  —  who  had,  indeed,  been  an  ornament  to  the 
society  in  which  ihey  moved.  Some  of  them  were 
desirous  of  acquiring  riches ;  and^  hearing  such 
glowing  accounts  of  fortunes  so  speedily  amassed 
in  California,  and  also  being  possessed  of  an  adven- 
turous spirit,  started,  as  they  termed  it,  to  seek  their 
fortunes.  Some  went  with  their  husbands,  some 
with  their  fathers,  some  with  their  brothers^  and  too 
many  went  alone. 

To  such  as  had-  felt  and  known  all  the  inconveni- 
ence arising  from  a  limited  purse,  and  thought  that 
if  they  were  blessed  with  riches,  or  a  competency 
even,  their  happiness  would  be  complete,  —  to  such, 
I  assert,  it  was  a  dangerous  country  to  go  to,  unless 
their  principles  were  as  firm  as  the  rocks  of  their 
native  hills. 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


331 


One  beautiful  young  girl^  in  company  with  her 
brother^  left  a  pleasant  home,  situated  in  the  heart 
of  the  "Old  Granite  State/'  and  together  they 
reached  the  El  Dorado  of  the  West.  He  repaired 
to  the  mineS;  after  having  procured  a  lucrative 
situation  for  his  sister  as  governess  in  a  wealthy 
Spanish  family.  Previous  to  leaving  the  States,  she 
had  been  a  music  teacher. 

After  awhile,  she  became  tired  of  her  rather 
monotonous  life,  and  conceived  the  idea  of  going  to 
one  of  the  interior  cities^  to  see  if  she  could  find 
something  better  to  do.  An  offer  was  made  of 
forty  dollars  an  evening,  if  she  would  sit  at  a  Lans- 
quenet table,  and  deal  the  cards,  r  At  first  she 
shrank  with  horror  at  the  idea  of  thus  appearing 
in  a  gambling-house.  Then  she  thought  of  her 
widowed  mother  at  home,  deprived  of  all  the  com- 
forts and  luxuries  so  acceptable  to  the  middle-aged 
and  feeble.  Said  she,  "  What  an  amovmt  of  money 
I  can  earn  in  this  way,  wherewith  to  surround 
mother  with  every  comfort,  and  yet  not  compro- 
mise my  honor  in  the  least ! "  Mistaken  girl !  No 
woman  could  long  remain  virtuous  in  one  of  those 
gilded  saloons  of  vice,  surrounded,  as  she  must  ne- 
cessarily be,  by  men  who  looked  upon  the  opposite 
sex  very  much  in  the  same  light  as  does  the  fish- 


332 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


hawk^  which  soars  above  the  surface  of  some  clear 
lake^  ever  ready  to  pounce  upon^  and  bear  off  in  its 
talons^  any  one  of  the  shining  piscatory  tribe  that^ 
more  venturesome  than  another^,  approaches  too 
near  to  the  boundaries  of  its  native  element. 

The  night  approached  on  which  Jennie  was  to 
make  her  debut  in  the  sporting  world.  With  a 
palpitating  hearty  she  repaired^  in  company  with 
her  employer^  to  one  of  the  most  magnificent  gam- 
bling establishments  in  the  city.  Upon  entering^ 
the  dazzling  brilliancy  of  the  surrounding  appur- 
tenances^ the  delicious  strains  of  magical  music 
which  burst  upon  her  ear^  were  perfectly  enchant- 
ing ;  butj  as  she  raised  her  eyes  to  the  wallS;  (from 
which  depended  numerous  joictures^  all  calculated 
to  excite  the  grosser  passions  of  man,  and  which 
were  inclosed  in  magnificently  gilded  frames,)  she 
drank  in  at  a  glance  her  position,  and  fainted.  She 
was  taken  to  her  hotel,  and  left,  for  that  night,  to 
her  own  gloomy  reflections. 

Oh,  Jennie,  if  you  had  but  listened  to,  and  been 
guided  by,  the  spirit-influence  of  your  Guardian 
Angel,  who  is  ever  near  and  ready,  unless  obstinately 
resisted,  to  soothe  the  agitated,  wavering  heart, 
and,  by  sweet,  whispered  breathings  of  divine  coun- 
sel, is  able  to  lead  the  troubled  soul  to  drink  of  the 
sweet  waters  of  eternal  happiness ! 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


333 


Next  morning  came  the  tempter;  and^  by  in- 
creasing in  amount  the  already  liberal  sum  proffered 
for  her  services,  he  gained  from  her  a  promise  to 
make  a  second  attempt  the  ensuing  evening.  She 
went;,  and  this  time  succeeded  in  reaching  the  seat 
provided  for  her ;  but  her  head  swam,  her  step  fal- 
tered ;  and  well  it  might,  for  the  licentious  gaze  of 
hundreds  rested  admiringly  upon  her  superb  figure. 
Her  transcendently  beautiful  countenance  was  suf- 
fused with  the  blush  of  maidenly  modesty;  and 
that,  having  been  an  imseen  and  unheard-of  feature 
in  such  a  place,  was  all  the  more  refreshing  for  its 
scarcity. 

For  some  time  she  retained  all  her  original  purity; 
and  then  the  angels  in  heaven  might  have  wept, 
when  they  saw  the  tempter  secure  of  his  victim. 
She  had  launched  her  skiff  upon  the  sea  of  immo- 
rality, freighted  with  that  priceless  treasure,  virtue ; 
and,  in  exchange  for  which,  it  had  returned  to  her 
laden  with  gold,  wherewith  she  could  supply  her 
dearly  loved  mother's  every  want.  Thus  she  lived 
for  months  ;  not  quite  so  daring  as  Lillie,  yet  drink- 
ing sufficiently  deep  at  the  Lethean  fount  to  hush 
all  the  whisperings  of  conscience.  She  finally  ter- 
minated her  profitable  career  of  vice  by  marrying 
a  wealthy,  popular  man  in  one  of  the  mountain 


334 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


towns^  —  one  with  whom  she  had  Hved  on  terms 
of  the  greatest  intimacy  for  months  before  their 
marriage. 

She  now  moves  in  good  society  in  one  of  our 
Eastern  citieS;  surrounded  with  all  the  appliances 
of  wealth;  in  possession  of  the  love  of  a  popular  and 
respected  husband.  WhO;,  among  her  numerous 
friends^  would  stop  to  make  inqviiries  of  her  past 
life  ?  And;  even  if  her  fashionable  acquaintances 
knew  of  her  past  follies^  I  am  rather  inclined  to 
think  they  would  wink  "  at  them  rather  than  lose 
a  ivealtliy  friend.  Such  was  life  as  I  saw  it  in  Cali- 
fornia. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

NoW;  kind  friends^  a  few  farewell  words,  and  my 
story  closes.  On  my  ride  from  the  depot  home,  I 
passed  the  old,  familiar  trees ;  yet,  thought  I,  they 
have  certainly  grown  smaller.    And  the  brook,  too 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


335 


—  why^  it  was  almost  dried  up  j  and  the  hills^  how 
they  had  diminished  in  size  !  I  insisted  that  some 
of  them  had  been  dug/away. 

There^  before  me,  was  the  old  homestead^  the 
spot  where  my  heart  first  learned  attachment; 
where  my  ipiind  had  first  opened  its  eyes ;  where  a 
mother  had  tenderly  nurtured  me^  from  earliest 
inflmcy. 

How  sensibly  the  shadows  of  retrospection  came 
creeping  over  my  heart;  as  I  first  drew  in  sight  of 
that  endeared  place !  The  roofs  and  windows  looked 
familiar  to  my  eye ;  the  old  trees  waved  their  arms 
as  of  yore.  I  reached  the  door^  raised  the  latch, 
and  was  locked  in  the  embrace  of  father^  mother, 
brothers.  But  the  sister  whom  I  had  left  there  a 
light-hearted  girl,  had  gone  to  gladden  and  cheer 
another's  home.  She  had  pressed  one  darling  babe 
to  her  bosom  for  a  short  space ;  then  it  had  winged 
its  way  to  blissful  realms  above,  and  left  the  mother 
desolate. 

Now,  you  have  accompanied  me  on  my  eventful 
voyage  to  California,  around  Cape  Horn,  on  board 
burning  ships ;  have  sympathized  with  me  in  sor- 
row, joyed  with  me  in  pleasure;  crossed  the  Isthmus 
with  me,  astride  a  mule ;  in  fact,  followed  me 
through  "  dangers  seen  and  unseen  j "  and,  finally, 


336 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


reached  with  me  the  '^old  homestead."  And^  if 
you  have  been  repaid  for  the  amount  of  time  and 
patience  expended,  I  am  heartily  glad  of  it ;  and, 
if  you  have  not,  I  hope  I  shall  ever  remain  in 
"  blissful  ignorance  "  of  the  loss.    Good-by ! 


THE  END. 


ft 


